This product was mentioned in
with an average of
Not bad, its actually an old, simple design for a ratcheting wrench. Still popular because its cheap but does the job. Here's a very popular one on amazon:
But yes, using bit ratchets is far better than allen/hex keys.
Not op, but it is not hard at all. Just takes some common sense and the proper tools. I highly recommend this pocket ratchet off Amazon. Neiko 03044A Mini Ratcheting Offset Screwdriver and Bit Set, Pocket Size Close-Quarters ,1/4-Inch Drive [link]
Neiko 03044A Mini Ratcheting Offset Screwdriver and Bit Set, Pocket Size Close-Quarters ,1/4-Inch Drive [link]
heres the set
Edit: note that it doesn’t come with a 3/16 bit
the backs do NOT require removal. Order a 90 degree Screw driver for 8 bucks on amazon
and get a small ratchet with 8mm socket. Took me 15 minutes to do the backs this way. No need to complicate it more then it needs to be haha.
Agreed, there is no need for big cases. I managed to fit all three fans on the front without making any mods to the case, the bottom most fan was the biggest pain to install because of the PSU shroud. I used a tool like this to get the screws in without taking everything apart.
HAPPY CAKE DAY! It is one of the cheap Amazon ones. It works well but the bits are not great. I have a lot of bits floating around so that wasn't too much of a concern. It mostly lives to drive a #2 Phillips on one piece of equipment I work on often.
They make offset screwdrivers. For actual unscrewing (not for your prying application obviously) in tight areas like dash speakers, I use one of these instead of offset screwdrivers.
I just checked and my dealer actually quoted me $1100 for the cooling fan. Around $750 for parts, $350 for labor.
Both parts of that price are insane and I’m sure you could find a professional who could do it cheaper. But DIY is a good option if you can rent the lift.
You “only” need a T25 Torx and T30 Torx bit, but these can’t just be long handle screwdrivers. I recommend a right-angle bit driver ratchet like this one: [link]
Note, I do not own or endorse that exact one, you just need something that will let you sneak in sideways to get at screws because there is not enough space in front of the screws to approach with a “normal screwdriver” shaped tool.
One more thing— you need a tiny flathead or some sort of pick/pry tool to remove the electrical connection. It is secured with an obvious red clip on one side then there is a “bump” on another side of the connector which hides another plastic clip thing that needs to be pried out.
A few different lengths of extensions for the screwdriver bits will also make your life easier, so the ratchet can go on the near side or the far side of stuff that’s in your way.
It took me about 2.5 hours to DIY it and that included fumbling with jacks and stands, looking for the tools I needed because I didn’t plan ahead, fumbling with the wrong tools because I didn’t even have the right ones, etc.
I imagine it would take about 1 hour with the right tools and some experience which is why I think the $350 labor estimate is bullshit. I’m sure an independent shop would do it under $200 labor (unless you’re in a very expensive area) but this mostly just covers rent, equipment, labor, etc, so they want to make a profit off the parts and you will still pay a lot there compared to DIY.
Bought the same thing but with interchangeable bits on amazon a few years ago. It’s great in tight spaces.
Neiko 03044A Mini Ratcheting Screwdriver and Bit Set, Pocket Size Close-Quarters ,1/4-Inch Drive [link]
I bought this ratchet off amazon which was one of the lowest profile ratchets I could find. Honestly, it was my hand and forearm size that caused the issue. I considered removing the airbag for reinstall, but I think my current result is good enough.
Not a dumb question at all. I’m really bad with cars even though I love them and I was able to handle the install. YouTube videos showed people removing the rear wheels. While that would probably make it a bit easier, I was able to do it without taking the wheels off.
For BRZ/FRS ‘13 - ‘16, there shouldn’t be any drilling needed. The 17’s however will need some holes drilled. Best of luck.
Btw, this tool came in super handy since the space was really tight:
ratcheting right andgle screw driver
I took me about a half hour to get the motor out. The biggest PITA is the cramped working space. You'll want a small ratcheting bit driver to make things easier ( [link] ) .. I used a 1/4 ratchet with a bit that sit into a small socket.. it sucked because the bit kept falling out as I moved around.
You need a ratcheting screwdriver set like this.
8 bucks on Amazon. Its the dickens (is that British enough?) too.
IVY Classic 44416 1-Inch x 3/16-Inch Hex Insert Bit, Impact Plus, 1/Box [link]
I used this one, Neiko 03044A Mini Ratcheting... [link]
Though any of the Mini ratchets will do.
The NEC (year based on your state) would be a good start. I just bought the American Electricians’ handbook, and It looks good so far.
Tools are dependent on the type of work you do. I do primarily commercial and can recommend for that. You can ask for power tools if you want to use your own power tools at work or at home. Drill bits and screwdriver bits are typically a good gift idea, never hurts t have a spare of them. I use the Bosch 6” bit extension, and the Bosch 12” bit extension, which are great because the bits are like an impact chuck and won’t fall out. If you need a small screwdriver for tight spaces, I use the Neiko offset screwdriver. If you need a precision screwdriver, I recommend the Klein 4-in-1 precision screwdriver. I can recommend more if you tell me the style of work you do.
Mini ratchet offset screwdriver
Comes with both T15 and T20 bits
I have an update on my own blend door problem. Because I'm a glutton for punishment I went ahead and bought the Dorman replacement that I mentioned in my other comment and did it myself instead of taking it to Ford. I can confirm that the Dorman part is significantly heavier, physically thicker and higher quality than the OEM unit. The gear set is in a slightly different arrangement and the gears themselves are more robust. I can also confirm the overall shitty quality of the OEM part.
The install wasn't quite a nightmare, but it was challenging. I used this video as reference though I didn't have to take the driver's seat out. I also had this handy mini ratchet which was absolutely perfect for the job along with a T20 bit. Now the tricky part which I wasn't quite sure of going in: I switched the car on and turned off the HVAC assuming that doing so would put the actuator in some sort of parked position. This probably isn't necessary since it likely goes back to the same position when the car is turned off. Anyway, after removing the OEM blend door I noted which position the output shaft was in. There's a little arrow on the casing that part of the gear lined up with. The new unit's output shaft wasn't in the same orientation. So, I plugged the Dorman unit in but didn't install it, turned the car on and switched the HVAC on and off to put the new unit in the same position as the OEM one. After that I noticed the output shaft still wasn't in the correct orientation. So, I had to open it up and take out one of the drive gears so I could reorient the output shaft. Once I did this the new unit slid into position pretty easily and I tested it out and BAM, no noise and the climate control works as expected. Now to see if this one lasts longer than 13,000 miles but after seeing the two parts together I really think it will. Hope this helps someone!
Edit: So I've got everything in one place for people stumbling across this here's the link to the Dorman part. It is Dorman 604-400 Air Door Actuator replacing OE part BE8Z19E616B
I am reluctant to out myself by connecting /u/pbjamm to me IRL but I will gladly answer any questions you have. Here is a post I made when I finished the first half of the project. After talking to Bus Depot about this they suggested I might have to loosen the top corners of the tent up a bit. I undid them and pulled the top front as tight as I could and screwed it back down. Be sure to do that the first time as it was a total bitch to get that back up into place with the bottom connected already but not impossible. The extra 1-2cm was enough to get the bottom tacked down in the back. Working in the bottom back was by far the hardest part of the project. There is so little room to work I could barely see what I was doing. I highly recommend a ratcheting screwdriver for getting into the tight places. As I said before the finished project is tight, like a drum head. I was genuinely worried when I popped the top the first time, but it can stretch. I dont think I have any in process photos as I was too busy sweating and cursing to work the camera.
Eh, there are tons of offset screwdrivers out there.
I've used this guy plenty, as long as you don't have to put too much torque on it, it works fine [link]
You will need to remove the gearbox and pop the right side selector cover off to do it. I use a ratcheting screwdriver to tighten them so I don't have to pop the cover off. I would put loctite on it to prevent it from backing off again.
The Classic Army MOSFET has 3 QD connectors to remove it from the gun. I have a video on taking the CA skirmish guns apart.
something like this [link]