I have this installed already. Pretty much the same thing, right?
NOCO GCP1 15 Amp AC Port Plug, 125 Volt Power Inlet Socket, and Waterproof Electrical Outlet Receptacle Box with 16-Inch Integrated Outdoor Extension Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ANV81S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_X3J4P1SJY5X9595T860F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Ok. Cool. Do you have something like this? https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GCP1-16-Inch-Integrated-Extension/dp/B009ANV81S/ref=pd_aw_di_ci_mcx_2l_mi_ca_mcx_picks_views_18?pd_rd_w=K6EVi&pf_rd_p=3fe70698-0cfc-4664-ada9-f60598343b42&pf_rd_r=JTGVPDFT5XPRZZQZ5C2P&pd_rd_r=a7ce93cc-b586-4...
I wouldn’t want to leave the cover to the battery / bilge open for an extension cord.
If this is a frost heater kit, it has a NOCO GCP1 as an optional plug. They can be purchased via Amazon.
Edit: Link: NOCO GCP1 15 Amp 125V AC Port Plug Power Inlet with 16-Inch Integrated Extension Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ANV81S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_N00LFb1PKYRW3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
And I would add this suggestion
Keeps the boat tidy and you just plug an extension cord in when you get home.
I'm in Canada so here's the Amazon.ca link. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B009ANV81S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_diILFbD5KZ8QQ
I cut a hole in the side panel and installed an RV style plug.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ANV81S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Damn! I was meaning to take a photo this morning of my finalized setup and post it for you but forgot. I'll try to post it tomorrow AM. If it helps my golf cart has this outside charger port (or something similar)...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ANV81S/
The original charger plugged into this so you can just plug from the outside whenever need be to charge. The other end of the old charger used a SB50 connector which connects the charger to the bank of batteries. Your setup might have a different connector, for example you might see one of these three instead of SB50...
I have no idea why EZGO used different connectors. I guess just different models, different chargers, etc. You can find a matching connector to yours on Amazon, you can hard wire the charger, or come up with your own connection as well. Since mine uses the SB50 I wanted to keep it as stock as possible.
ANOTHER option would be to get this heater, which is 120v and 900 watts, connect with this waterproof output box to an external spot on the vehicle, and then I have a plug in heater that I can control in my house via a timer/smart plug. Less messing about with Canadian sources and other limitations. If I can find a good spot for a wire to pass through nearish to where the car plugs in, that would be perfect.
I have a Noco battery tender mounted under the hood and Noco’s plug run through the fender. link
If you have a larger Pelican, you might consider something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ANV81S/?coliid=IXJF7SW9CM96W&colid=2UIS9E1PABIHI&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
I've found quite a few interesting parts digging through RV and Boating parts catalogs.
There are also similar options for including USB and Ethernet connectors through the outside of a case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N66N1JK/?coliid=I3LVBAX1E8XUKI&colid=2UIS9E1PABIHI&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
-->Tom
Ok, let’s try this again... strap in, this is going to be lengthy...
Sure! I ordered everything through Amazon except a power strip that I’m using inside the cabinet to plug in other chargers and such. NOCO GCP1 15 Amp 125V AC Port Plug Power Inlet with 16-Inch Integrated Extension Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ANV81S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_A5PZEbBF13N25. (This is the power inlet I chose, I wanted something that wouldn’t stick out too much behind the box)
LE 12V LED Strip Light, Flexible, SMD 2835, 16.4ft Tape Light for Home, Kitchen, Party, Christmas and More, Non-Waterproof, Daylight White(No Power Adapter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_H7PZEbX2AFYQA. (LED strip, has adhesive backing to secure it in place. I only used about half of the strip so I may come up with another project for the rest of it at some point.)
LE Power Adapter, UL Listed, 3A, 120V AC to 12V DC Transformer, 36W Power Supply, US Plug Power Converter for LED Strip Light and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_p8PZEbT4744MZ. (LED strip does not include a plug. So you need this in order to power the LEDs. They plug right into each other.)
Sensky BS011 12v 24v DC 3A... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVFG9S6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. (This is the door sensor. It has a plug to connect to the power plug and another to plug into the LED strip.)
2 Pin LED Strip Connectors 8mm... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q9Q92FH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. (This kit includes pieces to connect the strip between its “cut” lines. You can cut the strip every 3 LEDs to fit your needed use. I only used a single item to jump from the main compartment to the drawer compartment. I may use other pieces for future projects.)
Eliseo 14 Piece Hole Saw Set in... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BQS83Z2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. (I needed a hole saw to cut into the box for the power inlet. Not anticipating much future use I tried to find the cheapest set with the size I needed and the ability to cut through metal. I used the 2 inch hole saw as the inlet description suggested, but I probably should have gone down a size as there was some “wobble” that made the hole slightly oversized.)
So looking at my pictures above, you can see there is a rail that supports the shelves. I wanted to make sure I didn’t cut into that so I started on the inside to measure and mark out the center to start. For all my drilling I used a center punch to keep my bit from walking at the start. The first hole I drilled from the inside out to mark the center of where the cutout would be. I just used a small bit for this, maybe 1/8 inch. This allowed me to know precisely I would be working to not hit that shelf support rail. I stepped drill bit sizes a couple time to progressively increase the hole size to accommodate the pilot drill bit of the hole saw. I didn’t want to remove too much material at a time because once you start drilling or cutting into this metal you realize how substantial it is. I didn’t have proper cutting oil so I just used what I had, WD-40. Once it was time to actually use the hole saw i took it slow and tried to maintain even, steady pressure until there was a hole in the back of my cabinet. I used a round file to knock off the rough edges.
I inserted the power inlet to check the fit and then held it up to mark the holes with a sharpie. The power inlet comes with mounting screws but they are wood screws I assume intended to mount to a desk or something similar. So I dig through my hardware box to find some 3 machine screws, washers, and nuts that would work. I didn’t measure them or check the threads, I just found some that worked. If I had to guess, their probably M8 or M6, roughly an inch and a half long (I recognize the mixture of units there). Center punch, drill out the clearance holes for mounting. Tightening the nuts onto the screws was interesting to figure out. I ended up wedging a wrench onto the nut inside and driving the screw in from outside. It took a few times to go back and get the wrench back in place just right, but eventually succeeded.
At this point I tested the power inlet. In hindsight, I probably should have tested it before cutting a big ass hole into my cabinet... but luckily it worked.
Next I started figuring out the LED strip and the connectors. It’s beneficial to remove the shelves and drawer for this portion. There’s square holes between the main compartment of the cabinet and the drawer compartment that I used to route the connector through to link 2 strips. I measured out one strip to run up one side, across the top and down the other side of the main compartment and then one strip to run along the top of the drawer compartment. The connector would only fit in the right hole so that determined how I would route the power cable and everything else. The LED strip has a cut mark every 3 LEDs that you have to follow to maintain the integrity of the circuit. When using the connectors you also have to ensure you pay attention to the polarity marlins on the strip and connectors. Once I had the strips connected and routed through the holes I plugged them all again with the door sensor to ensure again that it all worked properly (this I tested before hand unlike the power inlet). Once I had everything working, I then started peeling back the adhesive backing and sticking the LED strips inside the box a few inches at a time. The door sensor includes a double sided adhesive pad to secure it in place as well.
Feel free to hit me up with any questions you might have.
Sure! I ordered everything through Amazon except a power strip that I’m using inside the cabinet to plug in other chargers and such.
NOCO GCP1 15 Amp 125V AC Port Plug Power Inlet with 16-Inch Integrated Extension Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ANV81S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_A5PZEbBF13N25. (This is the power inlet I chose, I wanted something that wouldn’t stick out too much behind the box)
LE 12V LED Strip Light, Flexible, SMD 2835, 16.4ft Tape Light for Home, Kitchen, Party, Christmas and More, Non-Waterproof, Daylight White(No Power Adapter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_H7PZEbX2AFYQA. (LED strip, has adhesive backing to secure it in place. I only used about half of the strip so I may come up with another project for the rest of it at some point.)
LE Power Adapter, UL Listed, 3A, 120V AC to 12V DC Transformer, 36W Power Supply, US Plug Power Converter for LED Strip Light and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_p8PZEbT4744MZ. (LED strip does not include a plug. So you need this in order to power the LEDs. They plug right into each other.)
Sensky BS011 12v 24v DC 3A... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVFG9S6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. (This is the door sensor. It has a plug to connect to the power plug and another to plug into the LED strip. )
2 Pin LED Strip Connectors 8mm... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q9Q92FH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. (This kit includes pieces to connect the strip between its “cut” lines. You can cut the strip every 3 LEDs to fit your needed use. I only used a single item to jump from the main compartment to the drawer compartment. I may use other pieces for future projects.)
Eliseo 14 Piece Hole Saw Set in... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BQS83Z2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. (I needed a hole saw to cut into the box for the power inlet. Not anticipating much future use I tried to find the cheapest set with the size I needed and the ability to cut through metal. I used the 2 in hole saw as the inlet description suggested, but I probably should have gone down a size as there was some “wobble” that made the hole slightly oversized.)