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Noico 80 mil (2 mm) 36 sqft (3.4 sqm) car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening?
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I used Noico 80 mil.
Sound from my catback exhaust is reduced in the cabin. I was surprised to see how thin the material and lack of insulation in the trunk.
I will definitely soundproof the doors as well when I upgrade my speakers
I did my entire Jeep Wrangler myself, with about $100 of this stuff. Works pretty well, and is cheap. If the carpet is out, grab a box cutter and lay it down.
Noico 80 mil (2 mm) 36 sqft (3.4 sqm) car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00URUIKAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_J2X6CGRZKNMK9H22ABNJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Otherwise, there is paint on sound deadening that works well too, but it’s about 3-4x as expensive.
if you compare to this product
Noico 80 mil (2 mm) 36 sqft (3.4 sqm) car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00URUIKAK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_W567EW6YBG4JYRV7EQKS
you can see the second one is 2mm thick and 0.7lbs/square foot.
I used noico 80mil sound deadening mats. Only used half the box after I finished all the doors (even after some second layering). I got the infinity 6x9 speakers to replace them little buggers up front when I get the chance.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00URUIKAK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I don't know how much this will help, with a high frequency noise, but they work pretty good on lower frequency noises like clicks: https://www.amazon.com/Noico-deadening-Automotive-Insulation-dampening/dp/B00URUIKAK
You can stick it to your case side panels and cut holes for your fans and stick it on the front and top of the case as well. I used some as a way to dampen noise, as well as a way to restrict airflow (leakage through non-ideal vent holes) to better direct air where I wanted it to go.
Sound deadening. Material like Noico 80mil, kilmat, dynamat, etc. If you swapped out your speakers, you'll be familiar with removing door panels. Just look up sound deadening videos on youtube. It's a pretty simple (but very time consuming) process if you can cleanly remove your interior.
When I did it and then reversed it I used a 20 or 25 Torx bit driver on the female connector pins. Don't jam it in there and move it around while pushing. Place the bit on the connector and apply firm pressure. It'll feel like it doesn't want to go, but then it'll just pop out. Very easy. Took me all of 10 minutes to do the entire job.
As far as "should you do it", I say it doesn't hurt to try. I drove around for almost a year with it like that. You'll definitely notice the difference right away. You'll get a lot more bass and you'll be happy because there was none to begin with, but when I hear it in other cars it sounds odd to me now that I know what a proper sound system is supposed to sound like.
Also, you're Bluetooth calls will come from behind you. If you have backup sensors then those will come from the front.
Did I also mention sound deadening? If you want to increase the bass more, then I recommend getting a pack of Noico. I used this whole pack to do the entire rear, tailgate, and doors. Probably the best sound system upgrade I've done.
One thing I’m doing on my 08 right now is sound proofing the cabin using these sound deadening mats to help with the loud cabin noise on the freeway. LED headlights, tinted windows, and interior led strip lights are a good way to start off too. I wouldn’t do any performance upgrades unless you can really work some magic. Borla axleback gives it a nice low grumble if you’re looking for that, although it is around $500. A great set of tires goes a long ways too and a strut bar if you’re gonna be taking sharp corners!
tC looks really nice after clay bar and wax:)
Think I’m going to do the POR15 like the other guy said and then some cheaper dynomat, really want to take my time and do it right. Amazon sells
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00URUIKAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eyDGCbAQ7WXRZ
What are your thoughts on that?
I lined the inside of my rack with this stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/Noico-deadening-automotive-Insulation-dampening/dp/B00URUIKAK
Maybe cover the top panel of the case with it. Wrapping the outside of the case with this stuff will help. Not sure what your options are.
Are you planning to add an amp or run off stock power?
The first thing you'll want to do is upgrade your head unit because that will make a huge difference in the quality of sound. Jvc, clarion, alpine, Sony, pioneer. Stay away from boss and any other knock off brand. They're cheap for a reason...
After that, you'll want to get some decent speakers.
Kickers are "okay" but they hurt my ears so I avoid them. I've got some infinity primus speakers in my liftgate that put out some really nice sound for a coax set.
Since you've got a jeep you may want to invest in this stuff. It goes inside the doors to provide stability and keep sound in/out. It's essentially the same thing as fatmat but like 1/3 the price.
You may also want to head over to R/Carav and fill out a form. You'll get more help there than here...
Edit: more help as in better matching of good/cheap equipment to fit your budget.
I think to cover the whole floor with sound deadener cost $130 it was 2 packages of Noico 80 mil from amazon Noico 80 mil 36 sqft car Sound deadening mat, butyl automotive Sound Deadener, audio Noise Insulation and dampening https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00URUIKAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sz2UzbFST9Z6E
I installed myself. If you don't plan on installing an amp or have an aftermarket head unit you should look for speakers that have lower rms speaker range. Don't worry about the max rms unless running an amp to power them. I like Polk audio and alpine from my experience, but there are a lot of great speakers for a good price. Read reviews and see what type of sound you prefer. Some speakers have different material tweeters and they will sound bright or warm. I would suggest getting some sound deadening material and when you are installing the speakers do the doors and also in he trunk/hatch area.
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Noico-deadening-automotive-Insulation-dampening/dp/B00URUIKAK
Just a little progress report.
I got it all in and wired up and I gotta say the memphis' sound fantastic. I got a little 6" basstube to stick behind the passenger seat to fill in the lower freqs as well. It's plenty for this application and has decent extension, starting to roll off at 30hz.
I also got a ton of sound deadener for cheap too which I plan to install after exams.
One last question tho. I am having difficulty flattening out the frequency response; having a 1-2dB dip at 220hz and 1kHz, and then a 1-2dB spike at around 100hz. The head unit has a 10 band eq but I am not having much luck flattening out the response. Any tips? You think a car audio shop would do something like that for me?
You need to find out the stock amplifier info as some stock systems have weird ohm ratings. 3-way coaxials are a waste of money. the midrange driver in those is way to small to be of any use. You are better off going 2 way. Better yet would be 2 way components. If the rear speakers are still playable I would leave them in and use the extra budget for better fronts for better sound quality.
Upgrade 1: For me it is never worth it. You get more bang for your buck buying a sub, amp , and box separately.
Upgrade 2: can use Noico deadener not the best but is cheap and will perform better than yoga mat.
Its engine noise, a lot of low pitched noise. Road noise is not too much of an issue.
And I was under the impression that this is basically MLV, and thats why I was combining it with the foam. However now I see that is simply a base layer. The interior of my car is small and easily removable so I think I will just start with that and my current padding, and see how it goes from there.
I have used the product before and the lack of smell and adhesion time is superb. It also has good weight to it, so I feel confident using it.
Thank you very much for all of your help so far. I appreciate it!
I've never worked on cars before and have no experience working on them. Looking at the videos, the first one seems impossible for me. I don't have those tools nor do I have any experience with them. The second video didn't seem so bad. I'm going to ask around and find prices, and if its too expensive, I'll try to do it myself with a friend of mine.
/u/lpbman recommended http://www.amazon.com/Noico-Self-adhesive-Deadening-Automotive-Insulation/dp/B00URUIKAK/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8 to me. I'm not sure if I'm suppose to install it inside and cover the holes, or just cover the holes with the material. Do you know what I should do?
Below your price range -- Deaden the doors, put some speaker gasket material around the speakers to make a your doors act more like speaker boxes.. you will get more midbass and a fuller sound, most likely slightly louder as well.
This will cost you around $70
~60 - pack of Noico 80 sound deadening material on Amazon
~10 - speaker gasket tape from parts-express
There's just not much you can do for under $200. /u/ckeeler11's suggestion is spot on. If you want to keep costs down, just start with some of that and add more later. I just installed those Morels on my daily, and they're fantastic, really amazing for the money. If you're at all handy I would highly recommend finding a way to mount the tweeters rather than just using the coaxial version
I’ve had this in my Amazon cart for a year now. One day I’ll pull the trigger. Maybe when I’m out of other problems to fix haha
I got it for $60 like 3 years ago. 36sq ft did the trunk, under the rear seats, and all 4 doors. I mainly used it sparingly. 25-50% coverage is really all thats needed from these things. Then you layer Mass Loaded Vinyl/Foam on top of them (something like this which is similar to what i used and glue them together). The end goal is to have 3 layers of deadening - butyl then vinyl then foam in that order iirc. Most people mistakenly think covering the entire car with this butyl stuff is what's needed for "sound deadening" but its just 1 step of the process.
However, IF you don't want to go through the process of buying 2 different things and want it done quick and easy while still getting very similar output - try Soundskins WRX template for the doors. You could then just buy the butyl I linked and slap it around in the trunk to get rid of most vibrations
Hey,
This is not reflectix, but Noico Sound deadening. It has an aluminum outer layer that’s is sharp as hell…
Many cuts later we decided only the wheel wells and and the largest panels are worth it 😅 We insulated our van with Armaflex, you don’t need a vapor barrier for that and has excellent insulation quality.
In the US this is known as another brand. Just make sure you chose the right material as you have different materials for different applications. All the black stuff you see on the walls and ceiling is Armaflex insulation.
And don’t worry to be “that guy”. If I made a mistake, now is the time I need to know as the build is far from ready yet! 👍
I used a base layer of Noico 80 mil (2 mm), and then put a layer of Noico Red 150 mil on top of that.
Hi, I own a 2022 Corolla Hybrid and I've done some audio modifications to my car.
In my car, I paid an audio shop to integrate an LC7i, Helix M6 Amplifier, Subwoofer Amplifier, and subwoofer alongside my OEM head unit. I then replaced the front door and dash speakers with the BLAM L165P component speakers set, and the rear doors with the BLAM L165C speakers. All 4 of my doors (inside and outside) and trunk were sound deadened using 36ft noico 80mil which made a huge difference for road/wind noise on the doors, as well as improving sound quality (especially bass). Although, the tire noise is still a bit more audible than I'd like so I'll likely get new tires.
What I did was probably overkill for what you're looking for (my whole setup is a little over $3k USD).
My recommendation:
If you're just looking for a simple (and cheaper) way to greatly improve stock sound quality in the Corolla Hybrid, I recommend replacing the door speakers and front dash tweeters, as well as using a sound deadener on the 4 doors. Go to https://www.crutchfield.com/ and put in your car model (maybe try inputting 2021 as the year since 2022 models may not show results), then see possible speakers that fit into your car.
You're going to run into issues such as needing new speaker adapter brackets for the doors since the stock Toyota speaker brackets only work for those stock speakers. The
Metra 82-8148 speaker brackets work for the Toyota Corolla Hybrid (2020-2022), and you're going to need these if you replace your door speakers. You'll also need a wiring harness if you're not into splicing/soldering speaker wires together, which I think Crutchfield will recommend (I'm not sure since I spliced). I bought these kicker speakers originally for my doors and they fit.
For the front dash speakers, you're going to either need a wiring harness or splice wires to attach the wires to new speakers. I originally bought the JBL Club 3020 for my front dash speakers, and although they're 3.5 inch and not tweeters, they still fit into the hole quite perfectly, just need to screw them in. I used the RED WOLF wiring harness to easily plug and play these speakers into my front dash (no splicing required).
For my recommendation, you're not going to need an amp or anything, it will run fine on stock power.
Hope this helps, lmk if that was confusing cause I typed this all in like 15 mins.
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Pack of this, or similar quality Butyl https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URUIKAK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Roller To flatten /adhere https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015WJH4ZW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just a touch of this (9x9in square) directly behind the speaker in the door & then some more on the inside of the door where the interior panel attaches.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QWXXSTB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
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Took about 2-3hrs per door, maybe a bit longer for the first one due to interruptions and being careful/slow with old wiring and plastic.
I got it for $60 like 2 years ago. 36sq ft did all I said
Four sheets of this stuff. Nothing fancy but not bad for free. I'm in north Plano so if you can make it out that way we can set something up.
What i used, amazing.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00URUIKAK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URUIKAK/
Loud enough that you'll want to put this under the spare tire wheel well area in the back to cut down on the drone.
Been there, done that. FYI, you're better off just getting a decent aftermarket straight-through SS muffler and having that welded on. Just my 2 cents, however.
you've heard correctly, moisture is the absolute enemy.
Luckily, the sound deadener itself is the sealant/barrier.
To be clear, I'm only talking about those sound deadening products which are butyl or hybrid/butyl-mix backed, such as noico butyl 80mil, Kilmat butyl 80mil, fatmat/rattletrap/megamat etc.
These are the products that are a layer of heavy foil with a thick layer of heavy, gooey, sticky, pure butyl or butyl mix/based rubber sealant as a backing and adhesive.
there is another class of products that will come up in search results for accoustic deadeners which are a layer of foil over a layer of foam, with mediocre peel and stick adhesive backing. That stuff is still useful for accoustics but useless as a sealant.
Butyl makes a fantastic sealant. If you haven't heard of or worked with butyl before, today is your lucky day. If you live in a van or bus or RV, you gotta keep a roll of butly tape and/or a sheet of one of these butyl sound deadeners around in your emergency fix-it kit. Butyl is one of those non-hardening types of rubbery sealants that stays gooey forever, won't dry and crack or shrink and peel isn't bothered by sun or water or road grime, etc. it's commonly used everywhere on RVs, sealing around windows, around roof hatches and ACs, etc.. I totally recommend poking around some youtube videos of people using it to get a feel for when it might be handy. I love it for patching all kinds of oddball tiny holes and sealing around places where I need to drill a hole for something in the floor/walls/roof. it's relatively bulletproof as long as you clean the surface first and easy to work with if you just keep your fingerips moist so it doesn't stick to you too badly.
so anyways, when you put a piece or sheet of that butyl sound deadener over a screw or bolt hole in your bus/van floor, that hole is sealed for good, no secondary treatment / moisture barrier required. outside water stays outside.
So you got this? 80 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00URUIKAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_08ZUFb4AYMEAM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Roller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015WJH4ZW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_.9ZUFbP6MY9KD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
315 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QW2RL2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_5-ZUFbDNQ3HKE
150 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TKXMPH7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_V.ZUFbYRK7Z5P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
They all seem to be 36sqft. Is that all you needed? Why didn't you use the 315 everywhere?
I added https://www.amazon.com/Noico-deadening-Automotive-Insulation-dampening/dp/B00URUIKAK/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=thermal+mat+car&qid=1599147690&sr=8-4 to my car at the metal, then i added https://www.amazon.com/Noico-Insulation-Self-Adhesive-Deadening-Material/dp/B07QW2RL2Q/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=noico+heat+mat&qid=1599147757&sr=8-5 to the firewall and trans tunnel sections. works well, i dont bake like a potatoe unless its super hot 90*+ outside. Although i need to put this stuff on the roof and do the headliner, thats probably where my radiant heat is coming from.
https://www.amazon.com/Noico-deadening-Automotive-Insulation-dampening/dp/B00URUIKAK
It is easy to install, you just need a trim removal tool and a couple screwdrivers to remove the door panel.
It's that padding you find under carpet. But first, lay down some vibration/heat dampener material like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00URUIKAK/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_X81ZDbKEHJVWF. It will help with sound and heat. You will thank me later.
>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00URUIKAK/ref=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_apa\_i\_eaFRCb9SKPTV6
Man this seems tempting but wow that's expensive. Any DIY ideas that are cheaper? I'll look at the material type.
Entry level system I would recommend:
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Headunit- $130
Speakers- $90
Speaker Amp- $100
Subwoofer- $150
Sub Amp- $140
Enclosure- $40 Ideally you would build your own or have one built but this will work if you do not have that ability.
CLD- $65
Speaker Rings- $20- Closed cell rings from sound skins would be better but they are out of stock.
Amp Kit- $100
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Total $835
Lots of guys like Noico I used it on my doors afew years ago. seemed to do well. I would also look at Sound Skin speaker rings. Those 2 should help but sealing the doors completely will be the best solution. Hop on SDS.com and look at their stuff it is top notch.
What made you settle on those 2 subs?
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I would go:
Morel Maximo $145
Dayton HO $140
PPI $150
Amp Kit $50
Speaker Rings $30
CLD $64
Comes to $530 spend the rest on a sheet of MDF and some wood glue then go to town on a box.
Noico on Amazon Price hasn't changed much since when I picked it up either. I had a leftover rubber roller from lithographing that helped with installation.
The most basic system I recommend:
Front Components- $150
Subwoofer- $156
Amp- $190
Amp Kit $50
CLD- $64
Fast Rings $25
Total $636
You will still need an enclosure. Ideally you will build or have one built to specs. A sheet of MDF cost $40.
Headunit $180.00
front $150. Would require you to mount the tweeters. So if you do not want to go that route then get Coaxes
Rears $80
Speaker Amp $220. that would be to amplify all 4 speakers. I would recommend doing a 2 channel as the rears can be powered off of the headunit and used fill if needed. Saves ou some money for other areas.
Subwoofer $140 you did not specify 10's or 12's or if you were going to run ported or sealed. The HO's are great subs with good sound quality, can be run in a sealed or ported enclosure.
Sub amp $230
Enclosure- I would highly recommend building your own or having one built for the sub you purchase. the prefab enclosures out there are not built well, especially the ported enclosures.
Sound deadening- I would recommend Noico $64.00 and Fastrings $25
Amp Kits- Front $55 and sub $50. You will need a distribution block. Also if you are going to be running longer than 10' you might want to upgrade the battery to distribution wire to atleast 2 gauge.
Total approximately $950 which leaves you a good chunk of money for enclosure and more sound deadening.
not OP. but i used this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URUIKAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
works pretty good.
You've got a HU, and you only want speakers - no sub. Easy enough.
HAT Imagine 6x9 modular component set has some great reviews. You can mount them in the doors as coaxials (tweeters attached) or as strict midbass and mount the tweeters somewhere on the dash or A-pillars.
Forget the rear speakers and focus on treating the front with the rest of your money. Apply some Noico sound deadener to the front doors and you'll improve their performance substantially. There are videos on youtube describing how to properly sound deaden the doors.
If you HAVE to have rear speakers (mostly worthless unless you've got passengers) then these dayton drivers will complement the front pretty well. Make sure to set crossovers appropriately on the head unit.
Not an amazing list, but I don't see any replies so if you are completely lost this should be a good place to start. Only thing not budgeted is box materials.
You are at 1369 with the better focal speakers, or 1149 with the lower ones I linked.
hit your car with a health dose of noico
these speakers are phenomenal but put you a little over budget
use these speakers or some morels if you can't stretch the budget for the better focal speakers
For $80, this Noico butyl deadener is enough to cover a whole car.
The second part is the mass loaded vinyl, that will be a bit more expensive, but for $400, you can get more than enough from Second Skin Audio for example. This includes the vinyl, plus the closed cell foam that separates the vinyl from the body to eliminate any rattles.
So for less than $500, you can significantly improve the entire interior of a car.
I don't work for either company or anything. Just what I got to put into my Evo X. So far I only put a few squares of the Noico on my trunk and it did make it feel more solid.
The Noico is a Dynamat alternative, so this is the cheap stuff. I don't know if the Second Skin Audio stuff is the cheapest, so you might find something even cheaper for the mass loaded vinyl. Just don't get anything from Home Depot or something. That stuff is for construction and can emit odors and gases when heated up in a car standing in the sun. It's more intended for housing applications.
maybe 50# I used two packages of this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URUIKAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Noico is a decent CLD and much cheaper than the stuff of SDS. Also can look at Second Skin their B-stock is very good and reasonable. Also their CCF and MLV is not bad for the price. You can also look on foambymail.com and foamforyou.com for that stuff.
How does it perform compared to Noico?
Like this?
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https://www.amazon.com/Noico-deadening-automotive-Insulation-dampening/dp/B00URUIKAK
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How much did you need? Did you just put the one layer, or did you overlap them around curves and corners and such?
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Thanks
budget deadener . When applying deadener make sure you seal the door as much as possible to make it more of an enclosure for the 6.5 to resonate.
and a much better budget 10" sub for the money. Your box will work just fine with this. As for your headunit... I can't help you.
I like and use knukonceptz kno knoise, but I was recently turned on to noico and plan to try it next time.
This should be enough to do your doors and trunk with plenty left over. I think this would be a good place to start to keep it well within your budget. Alternatively, for a bit more you could get sound deadener showdown CLD tiles which perform better from what I understand.
Noico 80 mil 36 sqft car Sound deadening mat, butyl automotive Sound Deadener, audio Noise Insulation and dampening https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00URUIKAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fM3EBb03PYX0W
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