What is Reddit's opinion of Organizer SOIC8 SOP8 Flash Chip IC Test Clips Socket Adpter Programmer BIOS + CH341A 24 25 Series EEPROM Flash BIOS USB Programmer Module (Double Clip+ USB)?

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Just buy a $10 clip flasher from Amazon. Stop trying to solve this without a clip flasher, you’ll drive yourself insane. Use these or any of the equivalents, depending on price/shipping.

Organizer SOIC8 SOP8 Flash Chip IC Test Clips Socket Adpter Programmer BIOS + CH341A 24 25 Series EEPROM Flash BIOS USB Programmer Module (Double Clip+ USB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R5LPTYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8ZM8MW26E1SKW7W8HXBQ

So you can actually flash a bios chip while it’s installed onto the motherboard.

You just need this:

Organizer SOIC8 SOP8 Flash Chip IC Test Clips Socket Adpter Programmer BIOS + CH341A 24 25 Series EEPROM Flash BIOS USB Programmer Module (Double Clip+ USB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R5LPTYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_A5TCC9TD9XQJHFV0HP4F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

So you gotta take apart your machine, find the bios chip and connect this little clip to it.

The bios chip might need power from the laptop power supply.

The you take the bios file from the manufacturer website and flash it with some software.

Super easy.

No it can’t disable the password eeprom ch341a programmer and soic8 clip

Organizer SOIC8 SOP8 Flash Chip IC Test Clips Socket Adpter Programmer BIOS + CH341A 24 25 Series EEPROM Flash BIOS USB Programmer Module (Double Clip+ USB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R5LPTYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_FVF5EFZMA7W95FTY72FF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I haven’t used amdvbflash much but you can certainly try other versions or give it a shot on Windows with another GPU as the primary output.

If even that fails, another solution almost guaranteed to work (assuming the issue is the VBIOS and not a dead memory module or core) is to get yourself a chip programmer and reflash the BIOS chip manually, if the BIOS chip is dead, you can also grab yourself a new one. The CH341A should support most GPU flash chips and I’ve used it personally to recover some motherboard BIOSs as well. You’d probably need an SOIC8/SOP8 clip converter for it though unless you plan to unsolder the flash chip and solder it to the programmer.

Update: I found this kit on Amazon which comes with the programmer and the clip, AND it promises 1 day delivery. Perhaps my weekend plans will survive after all...

Thanks, I had my order coming in today anyway I ordered this set from amazon as they had next day delivery for it, so I will have it in few hours!

But for future projects I see the value in your ez hook - looks like the build quality is way better might last longer, is it rubberized outside?

I ended up splurging for the CH341A programmer with SOIC8 clip for a whopping $9.98 shipped, flashed the latest SeaBIOS for Acer C720 'PEPPY', and installed GalliumOS 3.0 from a 2.0 GB SD card. This is me typing away on that very same machine, back from the dead and zippier than ever before. The only hickups were that I needed to build flashrom from scratch, because the version on my Linux box was kinda old and Mr Chromebox's complained about a missing libpci.so.3 library, that the flashing came back with a verification error the first time, and that GalliumOS wouldn't connect to WiFi until the installation was complete and the system clock was corrected, but that's still what I consider smooth sailing. I understand that ChromeOS cannot be run anymore with this BIOS, but that's fine with me, since Google considers the machine EOL anyway.

I'm a happy camper now. Thanks everyone for pitching in!

I used a chip flasher, if I recall correctly I did it from Linux. The flasher I bought (linked) I ended up returning since the clips failed after about a dozen connects. Otherwise it worked great, just kept slipping off in the end - which is pretty stressful with a 1 minute+ flash time - pop off and... corrupt? Dunno.

Here's the site I followed to modify the BIOS:

https://github.com/tylernguyen/x1c6-hackintosh/blob/master/docs/1_README-HARDWAREandBIOS.md

The hard part is that the signing tool doesn't work, so you have to force bit-flip with the hex editor, and that makes TPM fail. I don't like that, so I reverted (see pain above)

The old way of recovery was to rename the BIOS file to AMIBOOT.ROM (case sensitive) and place it in the root of USB drive formatted to FAT32 with MBR partition, plug into USB port on the board, using a PS/2 keyboard where possible hold CTRL and HOME when powering on and follow the prompts. ASRock boards that have BIOS Flashback use the file name creative.rom (case sensitive) so that maybe worth a shot.

External programmers vary, some people like to use test clips, some desolder.

Here are couple of YT vids on the subject.

Using testclips, programmer type https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R5LPTYM/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmYXiE2fQ6E

Desolder, programmer type https://www.amazon.com/KKmoon-EZP2019-Programmer-EZP2010-EZP2013/dp/B07VLL3FCR/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YFZlRyxuIV8

TL;DR: Purchase the combo and use CoffeeTime to run a Coffee Lake CPU in that Z270 board. Sell the i7-6700K to recuperate some costs.

Alright my guy, my take is that you should definitely acquire this combination, however, you should do the following after purchase:

1.) Use LTT's CoffeeTime BIOS modification guide and enable support for 8c/16t Coffee Lake CPUs on the Z270 Maximus IX Apex board. It's rather trivial, you just download the latest BIOS from the manufacturer, and open it using the CoffeeTime tool and follow the guides online. It's all GUI-based.

2.) Purchase an 8c/16t i9-9980HK ES laptop CPU that has been put on a transposer to function with LGA1151, ebay has a listing for a QTJ1 for $129.00 + shipping I've purchased several times from this seller.

3.) Modify the existing motherboard BIOS using a CH341A SPI programmer and a SOP 8-pin clip. Amazon sells these for cheap. You may need to run some Linux commands, but you can do that with an Ubuntu installer USB (you don't have to actually install Linux).

4.) Sell the i7-6700K to pay off some of the costs. The beauty of the QTJ1 (i9-9980HK ES) is several-fold; first, it has UHD 630 which will allow for HEVC transcoding for Plex; second, the CPU is a bonafide 8c/16t which is double the i7-6700K's 4c/8t; finally, the CPU is 45W TDP, so you can easily cool it with a Noctua L9i.

During the last couple of years, I have built several Unraid systems for friends and family by purchasing used Z170/Z270 motherboards on /r/hardwareswap and FB Marketplace / Craigslist--from individuals whom wanted to upgrade their systems to Ryzen systems or newer--and used CoffeeTime mods with QTJ1/QQLS/QNCT/QNVH (the latter two being 6c/12t CPUs from aliexpress).

PM me if you need help!

You can try this too. It worked for my 5600xt, but I can't promise anything. You have to take apart your GPU and get access to the bios chip. It programs the bios chip directly.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R5LPTYM/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=davejack0f-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B07R5LPTYM&linkId=624c955d7cd9cc6c98a70f4123157488

https://www.car-auto-repair.com/newest-ch341a-usb-programmer-software-free-download/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fSU7755cN6Q

Do you have to do soldering for your board for some reason? I've flashed quite a few cards and two motherboard models (many times each model) and never had to do anything other than attach the flasher and swear a few times.

You can use a 5v cheapo Amazon flasher. The whole 3.3v vs overvolted 5v concern is overdone. This piece of junk has successfully flashed 100+ for me: https://www.amazon.com/Organizer-Socket-Adpter-Programmer-CH341A/dp/B07R5LPTYM/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=spi+flasher&qid=1617153344&sr=8-8

Even an unflashed card can do 40Gb, but detecting that TB3 external can be problematic if unflashed. Some few models just won't work without a flashed card, while others require plugging in at precise times in the boot. With a flashed card and SSDT you can just plug it in, or turn it on when you want and expect it to show up 99% of the time. This goes doubly for TB RAIDs vs single drives, or if you want to use a Codex card reader you must flash.

It seems that when the power cut the firmware of the card failed, you have to look for a new one and rewrite it with another pc, asprogrammer and CH341A 24 25 Series EEPROM Flash BIOS USB Programmer Module:

https://www.amazon.com/-/es/Organizador-Socket-Adpter-Programador-CH341A/dp/B07R5LPTYM/ref=sr_1_2?__mk_es_US=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=8JSF5IZD2UJW&dchild=1&keywords=ch341a+programmer+with+clip&qid=1614900578&sprefix=ch341a++%2Caps%2C247&sr=8-2

Hopefully this thread will show up when the next person attempts to flash their x1 and saves them a lot of time. The wiki instructions may be outdated, but a lot of it is still useful, at least the preliminary steps. I have a few other tips I discovered along the way that will be extremely useful. Thanks to MrChromebox and the freenode #coreboot irc channel..

When buying a programmer it's hard to get anyone to say "buy this exact model" so here ya go, this is what I used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R5LPTYM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

However, that black plastic clip is complete $#%$# garbage, like most of the generic ones, apparently. It worked on the left chip once, then would not work on the right one at all. I asked the pros in #coreboot and they recommended this one, which works fantastic.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HHH65T4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

However, you'll need wires to connect that to the programmer, so pick these up. There's more than enough and maybe you could use the extras on some rPi projects or something.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EV70C78/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

While following the wiki, I nearly fried my chip because they totally glossed over something. Make sure you are paying attention to where Pin 1 on the chips is! On mine, Pin1 for the left chip is upper left, and pin1 for the right chip is bottom right. You can tell by looking for a white triangle printed on the motherboard. I read you should not use circles printed on the chip to determine this(but maybe circular divots?). Also, note the orientation of the text on the chip. This can be an indicator as well. Hooking up to the wrong pins can permanently damage your chip, so don't be fooled thinking this whole exercise is "safe since you can always reflash". If you have any hesitation about which pin you are using, don't proceed.

And as MrChromebox helped me with on irc, ignore the confusing config values in the wiki. Just set the manufacturer, model, increase CBFS size, pick payload..

I know these work for some older thinkpads for bios flashing but I'm not sure how it is with Alienware.

This is the one I purchased:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R5LPTYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rC9KFbPVW0SNR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

This one should be a good general start.

This kit also contains everything you need (clips + bios chip + usb + cables).

I'd recommend using Flashrom if you have Linux, in order to avoid using the manufacturer's flashing program (which could be shady), but you'll still need to do some research about your motherboard's EEPROM version to input into the program.

I would think only a failed firmware update or physical damage would have caused this so i don't know what the odds of recovery are.

I used this to backup, erase, and re-flash mine for testing:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R5LPTYM/

You can get a copy of the needed file from the firmware installer using this process:

https://buffalonas.miraheze.org/wiki/Extract_Boot_Files_from_Stock_Firmware

it should be u-boot.bin or something similar, you may need to pad it with zeros out to 1MB before flashing.

This device is harder to get a good connection than most for some reason.

You'll need an external tool like this to re-program the BIOS chip:

https://www.amazon.com/Organizer-Socket-Adpter-Programmer-CH341A/dp/B07R5LPTYM

The only time I've managed to do it was when the power went out during a BIOS upgrade. The failed upgrade caused the crashless BIOS feature to activate and allowed me to write a new BIOS using a floppy (yes.. a LONG time ago :p).

I actually have a clip for modern motherboards so I can reprogram the BIOS in situ. It's actually pretty cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/Organizer-Socket-Adpter-Programmer-CH341A/dp/B07R5LPTYM/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=bios+programmer&qid=1596291992&sr=8-2

I ordered this off Amazon to hopefully be able to get some more info on those chips. Will update when I get it! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R5LPTYM/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_dIrhEb8HMS2AW

I'm not sure since it is so new. If you can take it back to the store that's probably your best option on getting a new board. This would be to save a possible rma and downtime while you wait on ASUS reps. The cost of the item is like 12 bucks. https://www.amazon.com/Organizer-EEPROM-CH341A-Programmer-Module/dp/B07R5LPTYM/ref=sr_1_1?crid=ITD2T6C0D9D5&keywords=ch341a&qid=1563824279&s=gateway&sprefix=ch3%2Caps%2C271&sr=8-1

i've used it 3 times now to fix bad flashes

flashrom is free and works in linux (off of a live usb even) you just have to get the chip clip on the legs properly which isn't super ez but can be done with a little fiddling.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Y06x1f22B0&t=601s