I usually recommend this for 3.5 drives - https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Toolfree-External-Enclosure-Support/dp/B00GAML7OK/
They also have full alu ones for a bit more, but I actually prefer ABS plastic. But feel free to choose other designs or brands, as long as they good reviews it should be fine.
I'd recommend a WD Blue 4TB or 3TB - around $115 and $85 respectively on Amazon. Best price vs performance. WD Reds are also good if you can find them cheaper, Greens are a bit too slow for me (unless for long term storage) - they power down when idle a lot.
Huh, I was suprised to see that you're right. None of the ones I've bought over the years on Amazon or Newegg specified the power supply specs. But all the 3.5" ones had quite substantial, heavy external power bricks with them - that I thought were comically large - many even with elaborate power connectors that look like large PS/2 connectors. That's not a 1:1 correlation with more juice, but probably good enough for a swag.
I did find this one guy that specifies 12V/2A up-front: https://www.amazon.com/this-one-guy/dp/B00GAML7OK/
On all of the other few amazon hits that I randomly tried, I was able to tell the power specs by searching for "power supply" in the customer questions section, usually answered by customers. All 3 I checked were 12V, between 2 and 3 amps.
FWIW, I run four, 5-way SATA-to-USB chasses, they draw at most about 40 watts while in use. At 12 volts, that comes out to 3.3 amps, for five 3.5" SATA drives. Pretty sure a 12v/2a power supply will do it for just one disk!
Would be a better option: Hdd Case. The connectors are (left) sata connection to your mainboard sata Ports and (Right) the powercord from your powersupply
You'll need an enclosure then to connect that drive. It's a 3.5" drive, so you'll need a 3.5" powered enclosure.
Something like this - https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Toolfree-External-Enclosure-Support/dp/B00GAML7OK/
Random example. You can also get USB to SATA adapters, but you need the powered version full sized 3.5" drives.
I'd just get an enclosure, they cost about the same and you can use it after as external storage. Just be careful with the HDD, they are pretty robust, but don't drop it or give it any hard knocks. And obviously don't move it when it's in use.
Good point, but I'm almost 100% sure its not a HW issue given it worked in its earlier configuration.
The drive is a WD40EFRX, in a generic enclosure from Orico, the computer is a Lenovo Thinkcentre M73 which has been Plexing on this config since last summer.
My best guess is the USB port is dying and causing issues but no clue why it happens at 2am nightly
Actually, that's not always true. For larger size hard drives, it is often much cheaper to buy an external and "shuck" it (remove hard drive from the casing) and use that as an internal. If all you are interested is large amounts of storage for the best dollar.....shucking is the way to go.
But yes, if you already have a hard drive laying around then obviously that is cheaper than buying an external. There should be no performance difference assuming your SATA to USB is USB 3.0 and your computer is too (vs a comparable external USB 3.0 drive). This is also assuming the external HD you had a purchasing eye on would have been the same type/size drive.
Modern 8-10 TB external drives are actually quite fast at sequential transfers (160+ MB/s) even though they are often "only" 5400rpm drives. Check out /r/DataHoarder and there are tons of threads regarding external drive shucking and the (very decent) "white" drives you get inside. I have a few 8 and 10 TB sealed Helium drives and they are fast, cool, and cheap. No complaints and I wouldn't want to replace them with anything else near the price point.
If you are going to DIY an external drive though, best to get something that offers full protection for the drive vs just a SATA to USB adapter. There is basically no price difference between a USB 3: SATA-USB adapter, dock/toaster, or enclosure. So if it is basically going to be permanent, why not go with the enclosure?
https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Toolfree-External-Enclosure-Support/dp/B00GAML7OK
Or just ask for some enclosures in another thread and I'm sure other drive shuckers have a stack laying around! (or hit ebay)
> 17:31 long with no actual work being done for the first two minutes.
No offense, but it's going to be hard for your viewers to want to show any interest in such a long video unless you grab their attention quickly. I honestly couldn't watch the whole thing, so I skipped through 90% of the video.
Secondly, the external case you are repairing is USB 2.0. Any techie worth their salt would immediately know it's dated technology. Why would I spend $15 repairing old hardware when I can spend $20 and get a brand new enclosure that's 10 times faster? Literally, the first result on Amazon when searching for a 3.5" drive enclosure.
Thirdly, I don't understand where or why the 3 random iPhones appeared and the "Don't worry, I'm not super rich" comment is really awkward. They were not in any of the scenes prior to that, they just magically appeared so it seems that they were deliberately placed as an afterthought. The video is pretty well edited, so I don't understand why you didn't edit it out or at least reshoot the scene.
Good on you for not having the mentality of throw away what's broken and buy another one. My issue is... a USB 2.0 drive enclosure is slow. Nobody wants to read/write to a 1TB drive when you're limited to about 50MB/sec speeds.
You ordered a 2TB drive and were accidentally sent an 8TB drive instead?
Well, I guess that's your good luck then.
In that case, just return the data bank, buy an external enclosure like this and use it as external storage. Just be SURE that the enclosure you buy supports USB 3.0. The PS4 will not even recognize anything that isn't 3.0 compliant.
If its 3TB, I'm guessing its a 3.5" drive? I'm not certain, but I doubt the Pi's USB ports are capable of putting out enough to power on that kind of drive. I just looked at the power brick that came with a 2TB external drive I have, and it says it outputs 1.5A, so I'm guessing the drive uses something close to that.
Here is a cheap enclosure that I think would work for you: https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Toolfree-External-Enclosure-Support/dp/B00GAML7OK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496184955&sr=8-2&keywords=external+sata+to+usb+enclosure I know its annoying to have to use 2 outlets, I tried to find the best solution for it and ended up just using a 128GB thumb drive, which was big enough for my needs.
You're going to need an additional power source to power that drive since a USB port doesn't supply enough, potentially damaging your PS4.
So this is what you'll need if you want to use a 3.5in drive https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Toolfree-External-Enclosure-Support/dp/B00GAML7OK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1486515873&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+3.5+enclosure
I would get something like this, it literally turns your old HDD into a USB external hard drive.
You don't have to worry about boot order if you remember to keep the old drive disconnected while the computer is booting. Then once the computer is up and running, you can connect the old drive through USB and copy all the files you want.
That enclosure is too small. I personally have this one and it works quite well. It's even toolless and you can swap the drive out very easily if you need to use it as a dock every now and then.
Don't waste a Black in an external enclosure. I would use a Red.
No idea if this would help whatsoever, but I'm using this enclosure:
Additionally, it is detected by my PS3 so it isn't exclusive to Windows OS.
I'm honestly quite surprised you have no CD drive in your computer. Is it custom-built? (The Asus Z170I is a motherboard, not a computer, which is why I ask.)
If you happen to have a floppy drive on your computer (unlikely) and the drivers are small enough to fit on a floppy disc, you could perhaps copy them onto such a disc and use that.
Otherwise, your best bet will probably be to install a CD drive, at least temporarily. Another option is taking the hard drive out, connecting it to another computer (via a USB enclosure such as this one - or if you choose another one, make sure it's for 3.5" SATA disks), copying the LAN driver installation files onto the disk, then connecting it back up to the original computer and installing it from there.
Crossing my fingers for you.
[edit: Removing extraneous word.]
Not a great sign, but some mobos have a hard time showing new HDDs. Recommend trying a few different sata ports for the HDD. Do you have an external enclosure that would fit your 3.5 HDD? Something like this.
You could put the HDD in there and plug in to a working machine and see if windows detects in in disk management. If windows doesn't detect it, your disk could be fucked.
I still think you're getting that message because your windows 7 install disc isn't good.
For what exactly? Hooking the hdd to another pc's usb port? Since desktop drives also need external power a external case qould be the cheapest option. http://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Toolfree-External-Enclosure-Support/dp/B00GAML7OK/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1448330080&sr=1-1&keywords=hdd+usb3+3.5
You can follow this guide to remove the drive https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iMac+Intel+20-Inch+EMC+2133+and+2210+Hard+Drive+Replacement/1008
And then you will need a case similar to this one to connect the drive to another computer https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Toolfree-External-Enclosure-Support/dp/B00GAML7OK/ref=sr_1_6_mod_primary_new?dchild=1&keywords=usb+sata+case&qid=1621449641&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sr=8-6
If your other computer has USB-C ports then you can use something like this instead https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB-SATA-Adapter-USB31CSAT3CB/dp/B0133F30R8/ref=sr\_1\_3?dchild=1&keywords=sata+usb-c&qid=1621449808&sr=8-3
This one may suitable for you. $19.99
I used two of these ORICO USB3.0 3.5" drive enclosures with it's own power supply (supports UASP) to house 8TB drives connected to my Orange Pi PC for about a year in a BTRFS RAID1 configuration with no issues, no overheating drives, fast speeds, and reliable operation.
I sold one a few weeks ago, and (shameless plug), I'm looking to sell the other one if you are interested. The only reason I stopped using them is because I recently came into ownership of a HP Microserver Gen7 that holds 6 drives.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GAML7OK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cool. Yeah you can just pop that thing open and put the drive in a new $20 enclosure like this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GAML7OK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qdbMBb7GVMPMN
Long response below. Note that I give you my recommendation towards the end.
The usb flash drive has a built-in usb connector, so nothing else is needed to plug it in. The usb connector on the usb flash drive provides both power to the usb drive and data transfer.
A 3.5" spinner (a hard drive that has a mechanical motor) is built with two connectors on the drive itself:
The above is how a 3.5" internal hard drive is connected when it is installed in an interior drive bay. You can connect it externally via a usb connection, but to do so you need to provide the same two connections as above.
The easiest way to provide the above connections is:
Lastly, and I believe most importantly for you, is to purchase a 2.5" SSD (solid state drive) intended for internal use. Here is one I am using for my boot drive. An internal ssd can also be mounted externally via usb - but again needs a conversion from its SATA type connector on one end to a USB connector on the other. Separate power is not needed for a SSD (because it has no mechanical motor). Here is an example conversion case I have used.
Note that in theory there is no difference between a usb stick and an internal ssd drive. They both provide the same technology - using electronic memory to store data (versus a mechanical drive which writes data to a physical platter that spins).
But there supposedly is a difference between a usb-stick and ssd drive in that the ssd drive is manufactured to different specifications intended to be installed internally on a permanent basis and in theory has a much longer life cycle than a usb stick intended to be used temporarily to copy a few files to/from an external usb port.
One of my servers has the following storage configuration:
Note that I am careful how I use my internal hard drives versus the external ones. My OS (linux/windows) always goes on a SSD (in the example above, an external ssd - external simply because I didn't want to use one of my four internal drives for the operating system). Using a ssd provides very snappy loading of the operating system.
The four internal mechanical drives serve data that I access regularly. Files. Documents. Pictures. Movies. Databases. etc Because these drives are internal, they don't need to go through a conversion process from SATA to USB as do the external drives - and thus should provide faster throughput for accessing my files for daily use).
Lastly, I use the externally connected data drives for storage that doesn't need rapid access times. Backups for example. Or temporary storage for files that are waiting to be categorized and moved to one of the four internal data drives. And other misc uses where speed of data throughput isn't as important as my daily work data.
I hope this gives you some ideas of how this stuff works.
There is no difference. What if that USB C to A adapter was snapped on with a logic chip that counted the data passed through it? Does that make it invalid if it were removed? It's not different that what you're proposing.
If they returned the shell without the disk, sure that wouldn't make sense, because the shell is just that, a shell. That components can have an adapter that makes everything else void if it's a simple unplug operation? Just because that SATA to USB adapter board has a logic chip on it doesn't mean anything. It doesn't affect the operation of the disk, period.
So you can sell someone a hard drive inside one of these but refuse warranty if the disk dies and they don't return that shell? That's preposterous.
> do you think anyone would give free warranty service for your blender if you return it in pieces in a bag full with gears, wires and the motor, even if you claimed it's the motor at fault and they should test that? Worse, do you think they'll even look at you if you just bring "the motor" and ask for a replacement?
So where does it end? Are you saying components shouldn't be user serviceable?
You're getting ridiculous now. Yes, many devices are serviceable and if I pull the blender motor out because it's dead, they can replace the motor under warranty. Do you think every component needs to be sent in as part of a full assembly? So if the compressor on my refrigerator went bad, should I return the whole refrigerator or just the compressor? I wouldn't expect a full refrigerator back just a replacement compressor. Not hard.
WD should put stickers on the case that say "warranty void if opened". But they don't, do you know why? Because they can't because it's illegal.
You can't just throw a shell on something with an adapter and say removal makes the warranty invalid. If that was the case then any plastic shroud would make a warranty invalid if it was removed or broken.
I bought this one - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GAML7OK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details. It feels cheap and there is no ventilation. I stopped looking and just kept it for now.
Would something like this be good for connecting it to a raspberry pi?
a frequent recommendation is Orico, though i haven't found any (single drive) enclosure from this brand that's also actively cooled.
Bigger multidrive bays often have built in fans but they're significantly more expensive and might be overkill for your need.
* This orico one for example (http://my.orico.cc/goods.php?id=6570) is aluminium and passively cooled. Seems out of stock.
* This other orico one is similar and available on amazon (https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-External-Enclosure-Tool-Free-Installation/dp/B00GAML7OK?th=1) but according to Orico's customer support, it has SATA 2.0 and doesn't support UASP.
* Here's an actively cooled Sabrent enclosure i found on amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013WODZH0/)
Most reviews of the sabrent seem positive although some buyers had trouble where the drive wasn't recognised when they plugged it into this case.
personally i have a generic metal enclosure with no active cooling, although i don't intend to use the drive very intensively or for long periods of time. If i had to choose i'd get either the first orico above or the sabrent one
The shell the harddrive is in. Something like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GAML7OK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PE8yFbYMMCMCP
Then pick up one of these up for 20 bucks. They are handy to have in any case. Especially if you need to back up data of the NAS onto removable storage.
Thanks! Links provided here:
(the HDD is indeed a 3.5, good looking out)
For the HDD:
Orico 3.0 Enclosure ($21)
Seagate Barracuda 2TB 7200RPM HDD ($55)
For the SSD:
Plugable USB C to M.2 NVMe Enclosure (Thunderbolt 3 compatible) ($50)
Samsung SSD 860 EVO 1TB ($135)
​
Note:
(I did look up the 8TB External Seagate HDD... wow at $135 that seems really cheap for 8TB. Some reviews said it reads/writes really slowly, but I don't think that will be an issue for me - is it for you?)
Using your advice Roflrofat to finally after weeks put something together, I really appreciate it.
For my small home studio, this is what I'm looking to get. Can you tell me if you'd change anything, or does it look like a good setup for backup (HDD) / VSTs (SSD)?
​
For the HDD:
Orico 3.0 Enclosure ($21)
Seagate Barracuda 2TB 7200RPM HDD ($55)
​
For the SSD:
Plugable USB C to M.2 NVMe Enclosure (Thunderbolt 3 compatible) ($50)
Samsung SSD 860 EVO 1TB ($135)
Ah i get it now, boy am I stupid, well thanks for that man see one of my plans was for an internal hard drive switch that woulda ended badly, my connection is very slow so it’ll probably take a while but I have like 200 GB used, yours says it’s unavailable to purchase would this work? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GAML7OK/ref=dp_cerb_1 or this one too
Here is a link to the one I bought. It is USB 3.0 and powered. I had an old dongle style and it was disconnecting the drive all the time.
​
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GAML7OK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is a 3.5" HDD. You won't get enough power from USB to use it. If you plan to use this as an external hard drive then you will probably have to buy a case like this:
Rook no further, PriceKnight is here!
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ORICO Toolfree USB 3.0 to SATA External 3.5 Hard Drive Enclosure Case for 3.5 SATA HDD and SSD[Support UASP and 8TB Drives] https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00GAML7OK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MRyPCbYEVW8SX
get an enclosure and make it an external Hard Drive ?
You could get something like this.
Would this one work? Literally just an one that is 3.5"?
ORICO Toolfree USB 3.0 to SATA External Hard Disk Drive Enclosure Case for 3.5" SATA HDD and SSD[Support UASP and 8TB Drives] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GAML7OK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_y7VRybMFJSBY2
This looks fine to me
Try finding one that doesn't have a Y cable. I have one with an external power cable and it works fine.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GAML7OK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Will the following external HDD enclosure and drive work or have I wasted time?
Enclosure: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GAML7OK/
Drive: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Cache-Desktop-Drive-WD10EZEX/dp/B0088PUEPK/
It's a USB 3.0 enclosure w/a 1Tb drive.
I keep getting drive "cannot be formatted" message once I go to format this.
I've tried w/MBR or GPT, unallocated space, NTFS drive, FAT32 drive. Any combination thereof. I've tried the USB in all of the ports. The drive is externally powered so I don't think that is an issue.
Before I waste any more time, is there anything else I should be doing or am I missing a step?
It's a Mini-DIN plug. This adapter matches the specifications, although the pin-distribution could be different with your device.
Edit: The cheapest and safest solution would be to replace the case with one for under 20USD. Plus, if one of your devices supports USB3, you gain speed. Make sure to backup important files, since your HDD is getting older.
I don’t know if this is still a thing, but with some packaged external hard drives, if the USB to hard drive board dies, the drive itself is useless, even if you remove it from their enclosure. Unless you can find the same model packaged hard drive, buy it again, your contents are basically gone. I think Western Digital MyBook and some Easystores have this problem.
There are tool-less enclosures for $20 where you just plop the drive in and you’re done. No screws to mess around with.
With my own enclosure, I can replace it if the USB to SATA bridge dies, or I can replace the hard drive if it dies. I can’t do that with a packaged one.