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hmm. do you want to keep using it? you could bypass it entirely and just have a hidden amplifier with a line-in, running directly to your speakers and perhaps one of these volume knobs mounted under the edge of your dash https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O/ref=zg_bs_10981741_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=B91H133GB0MYP2NC3N8N
They will take unbalanced inputs. I have a pair. They have a 1/4" jack on the back for unbalanced. All you need is a 1/4" to RCA cable.
The one real "problem" with them is that they have a gain knob in the back. You're suppposed to set it and forget it. So, you need some kind of inline volume knob/preamp to go with them. I bought a cheap one that has RCA in and out from Amazon.
I mounted it under my desk. It was very convenient.
If you just need something cheap, something like this would work. It'll just go in between the PC / Sub.
On a budget your best bet is almost always to spend more on the Left / Right speakers and add in the subwoofer as an afterthought. The Micca's are capable speakers but are easily outclassed by the LSR305's. The PSW10 also has (contrary to the amazon reviews) a pretty bad reputation here for chuffing.
My gripe with going for the PSW10 + Micca's is you're skimping on everything. It's a bad sub paired with "OK" speakers. You'll get more bass over the LSR305's, but that's at the sacrifice of overall audio quality.
Honestly my best advice at the moment is this. Start off with a set of speakers (My recommendation being the LSR305's), and see if they can meet your needs / expectations. If you happen to have a guitar center (or any similar store) near you then consider going in to listen in store or buy and return. Amazon likely offers a similar service but I've never returned anything that wasn't broken so YMMV.
The N64 has pretty hot audio output. Sounds like it's too much for the Hydra, so you'd have to attenuate it somehow. You could use an inline audio attenuator like this one, but obviously that's going to be difficult since you're using a SCART cable. Another option is modifying the console or the SCART cable to add attenuation to the audio lines.
The knob on the back of the speakers is not a volume knob. It's really a gain control. You set it to your maximum volume and forget it.
With my JBLs, I use this to control the volume:
I mounted it under my desk with a Command™ strip and was very happy with the setup.
I agree that once you throw in the cost of cabling (and the volume knob), you're getting closer to the Fluance price-point. But those JBL speakers are just so good for the price.
if you have a sub connected already you just put a LC-1 in line with your RCA...
Now it makes me think your headunit has 2 outputs... FRONT and REAR/SW is that what you are working with? If so Then you Should use a 1M2F Splitter on each channel BUT leave the REAR output on REAR no SW
Yeah the JDS is just for headphones. Just by turning it off, the RCA pass-through to the speakers is activated, and I have a separate volume knob to control those levels. I used to have a Focusrite DAC with all the I/O necessary, (XLR and all) but I wanted something a lil smaller. This current setup actually works pretty nicely.
Yeah, they’re built really cheaply, even on high end amps. They’ll usually last about a year or so. You should be able to replace them with a PAC LC-1.
PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002J226O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZM9hCb3VJ81EC
Yeah, exactly. Have to control it upstream somehow.
You could control it on your computer, or with an inline volume control.
Another convenient way would be to use a DAC or headphone amp with RCA outputs. Something like a typical Schiit Magni+Modi stack, or a Nuforce uDac, etc. That's very convenient even if you don't have a weird bi-amp setup.
Yes, avoid +db on any part of your signal path, be it a head unit setting or bass boost knob.
Set gains to maximize clean output, then use something like an RCA cable volume knob to dial down your sub to taste.
OP didn't respond yet so I'll help out with my setup. Scarlett 2i4 as interface between PC and speakers. Looks like OP is using a PAC LC-2 to merge the sub with the powered speakers.
Set speaker volumes to 6.5 to cut some of the hiss as this is a very near-field setup for me. Others have had success at different volumes on the speakers but most do turn them down from wide open...
You got a great deal on that amp then.
Without a gain adjustment, I would be very cautious to do this. Even with something like the Fulla it would be easy to blow out your speakers if you turn the dial too high. You could use this to limit it https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O but you need to be very careful.
Personally, I would sell that amp and pick up an SMSL SA-60. The amplifier you have is meant for a very different purpose than you are using it for and the chances of you blowing up your speakers is too high.
This should work if you do not want to spend a lot of money https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O/ref=pd_sim_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002J226O&pd_rd_r=YWT3Q50W01Z9KF19PPF3&pd_rd_w=Wtydt&pd_rd_wg=lJHiX&psc=1&refRID=YWT3Q50W01Z9KF19PPF3
I use an inline volume knob I bought for 15 bucks and pair of RCA to 6.35mm adaptors to my LSR305s.
So when I bought mine I ordered one of these amplifier controller thingies. I have it connected between my DAC and the 305's. It works well enough but I've found it more convenient just to adjust the volume in Windows. I have the actual volume on the back of each monitor set to "5" to prevent me from easily maxing out the volume in windows. With the volume at 5 these are plenty loud enough for a desk.
You had the right idea with the line level controller. I personally don't hear a difference between in sound quality with using the line level controller and having it disconnected but I know some people are much more critical than I am.
Good luck with your setup!
PAC LC-1 is 30% cheaper and better, and also available on Amazon with free shipping.
You can get RCA to XLR cables, for the volume look for a passive volume attenuator as such. There are also more aesthetically pleasing solutions if you want to spend a bit more money.
That turntable has a pre-amp. Why did you buy a separate one?
For controlling volume, I think you would need an inline volume control in between your pre-amp and the amp. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474060319&sr=8-1&keywords=line+level+volume+control
However, note that those can only REDUCE the volume...so if the amp isn't loud enough to begin with, I'm not sure what your options are.
I have the 793II, headphones and powered monitors and one thing you will want to have is a line level controller like this one as the 793II has a line out not a pre out. This way you don't have to change your computer's volume when you want to change your powered monitors volume.
I am still an audio Padawan, but the SMSL Sanskrit DAC with a FiiO K5 AMP seem to fit what you need, others will have to comment on sound quality as I don't have any experience with them.
cool, thanks for the link!.. That appears to be the only thing of its kind available on the web.. Do you know what would be the appropriate configuration (mono/stereo, pot value) for something like the Kemper? And is that knob not the same thing as, say, this?
AV receiver will be fine, so will just plugging in active speakers. However you might want to get a volume control in case the active speakers have the volume control on the back, something like this: http://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1435712944&sr=8-6&keywords=stereo+volume+control
Well the JBL LSR 305s are going to be noticeably better than the Fluance but that's not their normal pricing.
Ribbons are fine near field, no particular reason they wouldn't be. Quite the opposite, since they tend to have lower distortion they are arguably nicer at near field than some other HF drivers - assuming the treble volume is appropriate of course; elevated treble on any speaker can quickly be fatiguing.
There's plenty of choices out there... hard to say when you don't seem to have a definitive budget. I think monitors like the 305s or some Airmotiv 4S (or 5s or 6s, for the ribbon tweeter) will give you better sound per dollar but they do lack upgrade-ability (since the amp is inside, and for proper bass management a receiver works best but that can be a good thing, ask me if you want elaboration).
Also volume control at the fingertips is a separate device that needs to be added but that can be solved for not much cost iwth a device such as this.
Fellow Airmotiv user, why no Sys or Control Freak?
The Schiit Magni 2 Uber can be used as a headphone amp and passive preamp for speakers.
Otherwise there is not that much on the market for cheap. You would be looking at something like this
If you wanted this, it's easy enough to get an inline volume control that you can use with headphones. I actually use a similar thing (like this) with my S4 when I need separate booth volume control, one of the few things the S4 is missing.
Edit: you mean 2 cueing sections that you can assign to different sources. yeah. You can do this with a non-DJ type mixer. You should also be able to do it with sends if your mixer has them, but I can't imagine it's something that most people would be willing to spend more money on.
No idea why it's happening, but here's a potential solution:
Either add a mini amp and use the linked controller in line with the amp and mount the knob somewhere easily reached to control volume. Leave the buttons at 100%, and adjust with the knob, or tie the controller into stock wiring without an amp using rca to speaker wire adapters like these:
You can decase the controller, drill a little hole somewhere in the cabinet, and mount the controller from behind. That way, only the knob is showing from the front.
This will work, and it's a fairly cheap solution, assuming you're able to do the mods yourself.
PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller,Black,Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002J226O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XZKQY784F0WCECD22VX1
A knob made to adjust the gain on the fly.
Yeah. I was doing some quick searching now and these came up https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O
But the thing is the port on the sub is a 9 pin mini din so not sure whether that would work.
(Man, this turned out a long longer than I thought it would, for relatively little content. I guess I just have a lot of feelings about audio equipment.)
I'd really recommend reading a bunch of reviews and auditioning what you can (I know that's not always practical, I sure bought mine without listening to many alternatives).
I really like the noaudiophile.com guy's reviews, though I know there are people that disagree with some of his conclusions and methods.
/r/Zeos also has a shortlist and some mini-reviews of both powered monitors and bookshelf speakers + amps, and where our experience overlaps I agree with them, so I imagine my advice in that price range would match theirs. (Though after a quick look, it seems some of them are a little out of date, with links to discontinued equipment.)
If you're willing to spend that much, I can't recommend enough making sure your speakers are properly positioned with stands (you don't have to spend much though: the noaudiophile guy uses soup cans to prop up speakers he reviews at his computer!). You may also consider rubber isolation mats.
I personally use—and very much enjoy—the JBL LSR305s, which I got for 280$ a pair, but they're usually 300$ (typically sold by the each at 150$). When I searched for that price, I found out they've just been replaced with the "305p MkII", but changes are minor and all improvements.
Studio monitors are popular for audiophile grade computer speakers because they're designed for near-field, critical listening, unlike typical bookshelf speakers.
On the other hand, they're designed for a very linear, uncolored sound. Speakers can essentially be thought of as a musical instrument, and while there are plenty of wrong ways to make them, there's no one right way. Precision is just one basis for judgment (though the one I find most soothing to go by, since it's easiest to measure).
The LSR305s specifically have been very popular on /r/audiophile, but there's also a lot of praise for the ~400$/pair Yamaha HS5s and AudioEngine A5s. I personally wouldn't bet a lot of money that I'd be able to tell a big difference between my speakers and those higher priced ones.
The rest of this post is just advice for if you do get a Studio Monitor. Many (including the JBLs and the Yamahas I mentioned) aren't terribly user friendly. I ran into some stumbling blocks, so I'll mention them here. They're designed to be stand-alone, giving flexibility to your recording engineer, so to run them in stereo, you'll need a way to control the volume of them together (not to mention some unusual cables/adapters, and space to plug in two things on your power strip).
Zeos recommends this line level control, which is only 10$. There's also a "passive preamp" by Nobsound on Amazon for 40$. I don't think you can do too much to mess up a stereo potentiometer with modern manufacturing, so the extra money for the nobsound one is probably just for the nice box and connectors (admittedly, I built my own passive pre-amp and spent probably too much on a stepped attenuator for it).
Obviously, you could instead control volume directly from your computer's volume control, but there's a hidden hazard there, so this is secretly the more expensive option. On nearly every computer, the built in digital-to-analog-converter (DAC) is 16-bits; turning down the volume digitally fundamentally means cutting the audio resolution your computer outputs. The way around this is a 24-bit DAC: almost all audio is recorded/produced at 16-bit resolution (it's the CD standard; but also, about the limit of detail a human can hear), so you can go to .25% volume on the computer before you touch the real data. My recommendation is the Objective Labs DAC (99$).
Some people recommend a dedicated, high quality DAC anyways for a sound system around a price point like 500$. I do own the ODAC (predecessor to the OL DAC), but for me it's almost just for peace of mind.
As a cable example: if you get JBLs and a volume control, you'll need this for computer to volume control and a pair of these for control to speakers. (Not recommendations, just top results on amazon for those types.)
PS: One thing you don't have to worry about at all is "balanced". Most studio monitors can be run balanced, but they'll also run unbalanced just fine. You'd need a very expensive balanced DAC to make use of it, and assuming your home is not the maelstrom of EM interference a recording studio is, it just isn't necessary (it's not even "overkill", if you don't need it, balanced equipment just adds more components that could produce interference).
^(edited to correct first cable link)
I wonder if just something like this will work
Could put a little attenuator between the console and the TV's inputs like this https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O to reduce the level.
V Pos would be the option for vertical position
Level Controller or Stereo Preamp or a mixer or monitor controller.
Picked up the RT81 for 20% off on Black Friday?
Since the KRK have XLR, TRS and RCA inputs you could do:
Scarlet > XLR input on the monitors since the Scarlet has it's own volume control.
Turntable > Schiit Sys or a Level Controller > RCA input on the monitors.
Why is everyone making this hard? Just buy a volume pot for the pre-outs to the active speaker input.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O
Why not use RCA cables for everything? Then for unified volume control a level controller or a Schiit Sys between the phono stage preamp and the studio monitors.
If you must have balanced then one of these 4.4 to XLR cables:
Connected to a Nobsound or NobSound MC2 and then XLR cables to your monitors.
Which sound card? It has TRS outputs?
Turntable with a built in or external phono stage preamp > volume controller > RCA inputs.
The volume controller could be as simple as a level controller.
However if you use a mixer, a stereo premap or a monitor controller with 2 or more inputs for your sound card and turntable then you only need to run one pair of cables to the monitors.
With TRS and RCA inputs and TRS output.https://www.amazon.com/Artesia-EZA-MC2-Passive-Monitor-Controller/dp/B08CGHPM73
With TRS or XLR inputs and 3.5mm input for the turntable with an RCA to 3.5mm cable.
With XLR and RCA inputs and outputs. https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Fully-balanced-Single-ended-Pre-amplifier-Controller/dp/B07255VHZS
Or adapt your TRS to RCA to a dual RCA input and RCA output https://www.schiit.com/products/sys
A "stereo preamp" will give you volume control and 2 or more inputs switching. The Nobsound MC2 and Schiit Sys are stereo preamps. Or use a mixer or a monitor controller. Or even a level controller.
A simple https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O works.
With a 2 input RCA switch:
With a 2 input RCA / XLR switch.
Or use a mixer or studio monitor controller.
Sounds like you have pro studio monitors. Which model?
Most home audio powered speakers have unified volume control on the main speaker.
For studio monitors use a level controller, a mixer, or a stereo preamp.
Schiit Sys switch and stereo preamp.
Nobsound switch and stereo preamp.
"The original RetroTINK-2X lacked proper audio attenuation, so loud consoles (like the N64) could sometimes exhibit clipping. Later revisions should have fixed that, though. You can use an inline attenuator like this one:
to lower the audio levels, which may solve the problem."
What I did with mine is use this:
It's an inline volume control. I mounted it down using a command strip.
The Kanto YU4 are power speakers with a volume knob on the front with a built in phono pre-amp.
The Kantos have a 4 inch driver. The JBLs have a 5 inch driver.
I have no experience with the Kantos, but I have heard good things about them.
Then you need to adjust both speakers to change the volume.
Schiit Sys gives you a 2 input switch and unified volume control.
Or if you only have the turntable connected Amplifier Level Controller may work fine.
If its an alpine 5 Ch amp you need a Rux Knob from alpine.
That works for a lot of alpine amps, im not 100% sure if it works for the silver colored V12's but it is a possibility.
Otherwise you should put in a LC-1.
LC-1 As said Above.
sorry miss read. thought you I read r1850db.
It is a bit complicated. What you need to do is split the input signal that you are getting form the RCA, One set to the R1280DB master, and one set will go to the sub. If you want simpler volume control for the sub. Get a RCA gain knob, and put it inline to the sub.
But this will not work for optical. With optical. You have the issue of stereo bass. You would run the speaker cable to the a sub that has high level input. The run the speaker wire form the high level output to the slave speaker. But you wont get bass in stereo. Only bass form the slave will be played.
you need gain control.
between the player and the amp.
you can add attention between the amp and the speakers too.
I left the volume unconnected I modified it to stereo speakers so I couldn't use the original switch. Ended up wiring this instead.
PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002J226O?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
If you don't have measuring equipment or some resistors handy, an easy way to confirm too much output signal is by putting the Kenwood (or another pre-amp or pre-amp section of an integrated amplifier) between the new pre-amp and the computer, via the Kenwood's line-in instead of its phono in.
Or borrow a passive volume knob (or "bass control knob" in car audio) such as:
Best depends on your use case / preference. First thing I'd buy is some sort of physical volume knob simply for convenience. This ranges from cheap knobs off amazon to an Audio Interface with more bells n whistles.
Cheap subwoofers tend to suck, and depending on the model you're looking at you might not be able to connect the speakers to the sub (At least not without buying more gear). Center speaker isn't going to add much to your setup, and you also can't just connect one without buying an AV Receiver anyways.
That looks good, but what about this for a budget solution?
PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002J226O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_I7U3ybWM3XDYZ
Not the nicest piece of kit but it should work: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O
So I'm trying to configure my turntable set-up. I have a Pro-ject Essential II, Project E-box, Marantz SR4023 receiver, and a pair of Cerwin Vega L-7 speakers. I also have an SLA ART 4 power amplifier that I had configured into the set-up (minus the E-box). When I have the set-up without the SLA amp, I have no volume control, because the Marantz receiver disables this function when used as a power amplifier. However, when I use the Marantz as a pre-amp, and use the SLA power amp, I am able to only produce a whisper from the speakers. Any thoughts on how I can volume control to this system. Would something such as this work? Or why am I only able to produce a whisper with the other configuration? Do I not have something wired correctly? Any other thoughts? I have also attached some pictures http://imgur.com/a/lpHzE
Here are links to the components of my set-up
Pro-ject Essential II,
Pro-ject Box E,
ART SLA 4,
LC-1 if you dont wish or cannot find the factory kicker one
Just a tad confused, the SYS literally says:
>Well, if you've ever wanted to use one of our DACs with powered monitors, Sys puts the volume control right at hand.
Just add some RCA cables from the Modi to the SYS, and the SYS to the speakers. It does seem like all you want is a volume knob though? You can find stuff like this on amazon for cheaper.
Another option is this from Emotiva. It's larger and more expensive though, but it's an all in one with more features.
You can buy a real cheap version if you do not care for aesthetics https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O/ref=pd_sbs_267_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VVDBJA0HQ3NSTP0FRT3P
Check out http://noaudiophile.com
He has reviews of the JBL LSR305, the M-Audio, and the Mackie. Spoiler alert - it's not even close.
I haven't heard any of the models mentioned personally.
As for volume control.... if the model you choose doesn't have volume control on the front, you can just use something like this for $10 https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1480310043&sr=8-4&keywords=inline+volume+control
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WT4DJN0/ (expensive, what I use to have)
Ah. You're looking for a preamp.
Ugly, dumb volume knob:
PAC LC-1 - $10 Meant for car audio, but would work tucked behind the TV.
Prettier, dumb volume knob:
Fostex Pc-1e - $27
Two inputs, volume knob:
Schiit Sys - $49 and will allow you to manually switch between two inputs.
I'm not having any luck finding something cheap with a remote. At that level, it's usually bundled into some sort of receiver or it's a higher-end preamp that costs more than your speakers.
Maybe something like this? http://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O
That does seem like quite a mismatch! I'm hoping that's what the problem is. Do you reckon something like this would effectively attenuate the signal for what I'm trying to do?
Something like this should work: http://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1451947309&sr=1-3&keywords=inline+volume+control
Self powered. What you need is a pre-amp because these have no gain control whatsoever. So a Micca Origen, AudioEngine D1, Schiit Magni Uber or something like this or even this to control the volume as I don't trust the straight digital volume output of a PC to behave and not kill you.
> would the Sys be enough to change the volume?
Yes. Something cheaper would also work, although it wouldn't be as slick. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002J226O?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_7&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
> And would a powered from the wall subwoofer provide enough power to drive Infinity Modulus MS-1's?
Your subwoofer wouldn't power the speakers; the SMSL would still be doing that. For this kind of setup you have two options.
If your subwoofer has speaker-level inputs and outputs, you can do speakers --> subwoofer --> SMSL. Functionally, the speaker-level current from the SMSL would pass through the subwoofer and onto the speakers.
If #1's not possible, you can follow one of the 2.1 wiring diagrams here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Zeos/comments/2ou3yo/useful_diagrams_tutorials_videos/
They do make line level rca controls knobs, made for sub amps in a car, but would work for this too.
Since there is no telling what the knob does for your amp without knowing the amp. You could buy one of these. There are many kinds so that's just an example.
I know and I use this for that.
You'll need something like this and then a cable like this
an amp with a dedicated headphone out would be better though
Edit: Actually you'll need an adapter like this
Expensive #2 (XLR so adapters are necessary):
Put one of these in between source and speskers, with appropriate cables and adapters.