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Park Tool CCP-22 Crank Puller?
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34 reviews of this product found across Reddit:
I can see in the picture that your crankarms are offset from each other by 90 degrees instead of opposite each other. So you are going to need to use a crank puller to take one of them off and a 14mm socket to put it back on right. Or if you are near a friendly bike shop, they might do it for you for free and just laugh at you a little.
http://smile.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Puller-Square-Cranks/dp/B001VS1M20
You remove that bolt in the center of the crank spider. Then you get a crank puller tool that threads into the crank, then you twist the lever and it’ll pull itself off. There’s no “easy” way to do it without the correct tool.
This is what you need: Park Tool CCP-22 Crank Puller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VS1M20/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZJYVXC55EPZ5D0NYDXR9
You have a square taper bottom bracket. You need something like this. The outer threaded part goes into the threads on your crankarms. When you tighten it, it pulls the arms off of the tapered spindle.
Sorry to resurrect this Zombie thread - duckduckgo brought me here.
Same issue with my u616. I can hear something inside make a low humming noise - like a motor turning but not sure - but the resistance never changes. Gonna crack the case later tonight and have a look. If it looks like the brake motor I'll order, either way I'll post back in this thread hopefully it helps someone else.
Wanted to post an update here. To get the plastic cover off the bike for maintenance you need a bike crank arm puller - I ordered this one and the threads matched. had to torque the wrench pretty hard to get the arm to release - used a rubber hammer as a last resort and it finally came off. Works just like any arm puller for any mountain/road bike.
Ordered the replacement motor a suggested above. Not really sure what I'm looking at inside this thing but I hear noise and dont see anything moving so I assume this brake motor will help - even if it doesn't it was only 20 bucks. Worth a shot to fix this thing. Thanks for the advice /u/simplefitnessrepair
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CCP-22-Crank-Puller/dp/B001VS1M20/
95% chance its this tool. Any square taper crank arms can be used to replace them, provided they are the correct length - probably 170 or 180mm
You need a crank puller tool https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CCP-22-Crank-Puller/dp/B001VS1M20/
This is a good one and will last you for years
Park Tool CCP-22 Crank Puller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VS1M20/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_1W1MVW2TVRSE73M0T63J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This bad boy right here.
Crank puller. Screws into the crank, then spin the handle and pull the crank off. This is a good one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VS1M20/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_S464A62T1PGXCVRFS849
You can grab the tools needed for $20 tops. You’ll need a crank puller (https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CCP-22-Crank-Puller/dp/B001VS1M20/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=1A60GT1BEP8UE&dchild=1&keywords=crank+puller&qid=1633655158&sprefix=crank+puller&sr=8-4) and a crank bolt wrench (https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Crank-Bolt-Wrench/dp/B0787HJ4ZH)
You may be able to get away without the extractor. You may be able to set that free with a couple knocks of a rubber mallet. You’ll remove the bolt with the wrench and then thread the crank puller inside and tighten it. It’ll push itself off the crank. You can salvage the pedals and chainring. You’ll need a thin spanned to pull off the pedals. I use this one (https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-PW-5-Mechanic-Wrench/dp/B000YBEID0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=pedal+wrench&qid=1633655389&sr=8-3).
You may have luck buying a used crankset, but I’d personally avoid it, or atleast purchase a steel set used. In time, the square taper bottom bracket and the pedal arms can become stripped from usage. I’d highly recommend salvaging the pedals as those things are PRICEY! Honestly, the only mandatory tool is the crank bolt wrench (and you may be able to use a socket set there).
The right side pedal loosens counterclockwise (to the left). The left side (nondriveside) loosens clockwise (to the right).
I don’t own the park tool crank bolt wrench, but the other two tools have been excellent. I use an Amazon cheapo crank bolt wrench.
Gotcha. To get that bottom bracket out you'll need a crank arm puller like this and a BB tool like this. Also whatever size socket is required to get those crank bolts out.
You'll need a 5mm allen wrench to check those chainring bolts.
For pedals a pedal wrench is nice to have like this. It would be worth swapping pedals to make sure that isn't the problem, but I'm thinking you need to replace that bottom bracket.
This is the style you want but note the measurements. You'll need to measure the total width of the spindle, and measure the width of the bottom bracket shell on the frame. Probably a 68mm shell but you'll want to get a spindle that is as close as possible, erring on the side of too wide.
Hope that helps! This isn't too difficult of a fix. Just turning wrenches. Also, note that the left side (non-drive side) pedal is reverse threaded. And the right side bottom bracket cup (drive side) is also reverse threaded.
You need to use a crank arm removal tool. There really is no better way though there are other ways. Go buy this or a competitors product. https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CCP-22-Crank-Puller/dp/B001VS1M20 (note: this is assuming you have a square taper bottom bracket).
BB or crank. If crank you need crank pullers.
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If BB you can try heat to convince the threads to release. Heat the BB, not the frame.
I have this Crank Puller
Is that the proper one for a juiced bike. This is my left crank arm
Your bottom bracket is 73mm and will support BBSHD. You will need to get Lekkie Bling Ring HD to fix the chainline. If you have a lot of hills, u should get 36t. If mostly flat then get 42t or 46t. Yes, upgrade the the battery to LG cells. Maybe u need a longer chain because bigger chainring up front and if u planning to use largest cog in the back.
You will also need few special tools to remove the bottom bracket, crank arm, and bafang tool.
I don't know about exercise bikes, but it sounds similar to a regular bike.
The pedal bar is typically called a crankarm. Usually you'd need a tool called a crankarm puller.
But videos exist on how get them off without the special tool. Here's one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9n1z2kwmL8o
Like this? Park Tool CCP-22 Crank Puller
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VS1M20/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_GKzSFbGKQXHZ2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Did you remove the crank nut or bolt?
What does the crank puller look like on the part that should be touching the spindle?
This
Park Tool CCP-22 Crank Puller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VS1M20/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6bDHFb51VQKZ1
Or this
Park Tool CCP-44C ISIS/Octalink Crank Puller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001N883JS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VdDHFbPCBTGWV
You’ll need a crank puller: Park Tool CCP-22 Crank Puller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VS1M20/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fab_1w4CFbW3EA53M
Yup crank puller
Park Tool CCP-22 Crank Puller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VS1M20/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fGyrFbHM1R5BD
it appears you have a square tapered BSA bottom bracket, it may have unthreaded a bit. I had the same issue a few months back, and it just unthreaded. Regardless, if you need a new one or if it need to be tighten you will need a crank puller and the bb socket.
Park Tool CCP-22 Crank Puller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VS1M20?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And a
BIKEHAND Bike Bicycle Compatible... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00811WQJS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You have a square taper bottom bracket. It's a common standard, they'll fit. Your biggest concern will be making sure the crank length is the same (probably 175mm, you'll want to measure though) and the same or similar tooth count on the chain rings, although if you wanted to change that up to bigger or smaller rings now would be the time. To know what size your current chain rings are, just count the teeth.
If you do the work yourself, you're going to want a crank puller - there are cheaper versions of this tool, but I've not had good luck with them. You'll also need a 15mm crescent wrench to get the other pedal off, a set of hex keys or metric sockets to get at the crank arm fixing bolts, and a torque wrench to set the torque on the bolts when you reinstall (if you're in the US, an auto parts store like Autozone will loan you the torque wrench). And watch a couple Youtube videos to get oriented, I like RJ The Bike Guy.
Two options to replacing it yourself are to take it to your LBS, and if you do that then probably just best to take them the bike and let them order the part. OR, and this is my favorite, find your nearest Bike co-op. In return for a small donation of time and/or money, they will likely have the correct crankset in their used parts bin for cheap or free, and a fully stocked repair station for you to use and somebody to show you what you're doing. Bike co-ops rock, if you're lucky enough to have one near by.
Sounds like your bottom bracket is shot. I'm not sure if it is possible to repair the bottom bracket or not. I could rest easy knowing it is not worth the cost of getting a new one though.
You'll have to start by removing the crank. First, remove the screw holding the left arm in. Should be an 8 or 10mm allen key. After that, you'll need a crank puller to remove the arm from the bb. I do not remember if you have to do this to the drive arm side or not, but if you do it will be the same mechanism. If someone could chime in here, that would be appreciated.
Once you have the crank arms off, then you have to remove the bottom bracket. You will need a bottom bracket tool. Simply unscrew the bottom bracket starting on the non-drive side. The non-drive side will separate and you remove the drive side and then the whole BB. Replace it and go backwards on the steps to put a new one in!
Hope this helps.
The question is not 68mm english vs italian. It's 68mm english vs BB30. It's 68mm english threaded. Get a hollowtech, external bearing bottombracket crankset.
https://www.feltbicycles.com/Resources/MediaCatalogs/08Felt_AdultCatalog(1).pdf
That catalog is useful.
To whoever said keep your crankset. Ditch it. It's heavy, and it's a triple. Get a compact road double.
If you feel like you need a granny gear... like you used the small ring on the front in your area. Get the 11-32 cassette, it will make up for it. Otherwise the 11-28 has plenty of range for even beginners. It was
You'll need a square taper crank puller, to get that FSA Vero off correctly. http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Puller-Square-Cranks/dp/B001VS1M20?ie=UTF8&keywords=crank%20puller&qid=1460460815&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1 And an external bottom bracket wrench to put on the new one, and service it in the future: http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-BBT-9-Hollowtech-brackets/dp/B000C12BMW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1460460845&sr=8-3&keywords=bottom+bracket+wrench
If you are really suave, get a bike shop to remove your current one for you. Junk the crankset. Then only buy the second one for assembly, and future servicing... But at only $13... bike shop might charge you $20-30 for removal... so I dunno, get the tool.
Make sure your new wheelset is 11speed compatible. If you got another 9/10 speed wheelset on the cheap.. freehub may not be wide enough.
I went with 44 because it was closest to the 38 tooth that came with my bike. Just a disclaimer, my chain has fallen out a couple of times while going over some really big bumps on the road, so you might want to invest in a chain guide (its like 15 bucks on amazon). Here's a list of tools I needed, all from amazon.
Required tools to pull out bottom sprocket:
Extra items to make life a little easier (not necessary)
Utility Stand to elevate back wheel
Bike pedals because taking off your existing pedals is a pain
Required tools for connecting battery to motor:
I used a blower dryer to heat shrink, worked fine.
Additional Required pieced needed to install my motor:
The kit comes with 2 x M6*12 screws. These are not long enough, so I went to home depot and picked up 2 that were roughly double the length as well as 3 washers for each screw to fill in the gap. Here's an illustration to help with visual:
http://www.eclipsebikes.com/images/BafangDiagram.jpg
If you look at the fixing plate, you'll have to add the washers to the right of the fixing plate to fill in the gap to make a tight fit. Not sure if your bike will need it, but most 29ers will. Definitely wait til you get your kit and start installing. You'll know right away if you'll need the extra long screws and washers.
Here's the video I watched while installing.
The only thing he doesn't show is how to install the chain ring and how to take off the chain, which you will need to do if you have gears up front, since the front derailleur will get in the way. Also to note, I left my original brakes on the right side handle due to my setup being an all in one gear shifter/brake lever. Won't have engine cut off for the right side brake lever, but I'm used to braking with both front and back brakes anyways because that was what I was taught to do when learning to ride motorcycles. Also when taking apart the chain (you'll have to do this if you have a derailleur up front) make sure you don't pop the pin out all the way, it's a pain to get it back on if you do. Here's a video on how to take apart the chain:
I know this may sound a bit overwhelming, unless you're not a total newb like I am, but it's actually not that hard to install. With the right tools and extra parts, it's actually not hard at all! Hope this helps!
I'm new to this so am probably not the best person to ask, because I'm not sure I know what you mean. They come with crank arms though. I think the puller depends on the kinda bike you have, but here's the one I ordered.
Sorry for not responding, got really caught up with stuff. First off, thanks for writing that all up in detail! I seriously appreciate it, thanks. Let me get cracking with my questions ;)
> Said crankset on Jenson uses an external bottom bracket
So you're referring to this one? or the Shimano Acera you suggested? If I could choose I'd go with the Deore as it seems to have better reviews/slightly better quality.
As for the tools, didn't think I'd need so many! Will this crank extractor do the job for me? And then this bottom bracket remover? Also does that just attach to a standard ratchet head? I'll assume this external BB tool will work as it says it's for Shimano Hollowtech II, but I'm having a hard time finding a two-piece preload cap tool, is it this?
That's all the questions I can drown you with for now! I wont really be able to get cracking until Saturday or next week though so I can't go much further. I honestly would just go to my LBS, even just to ask them the questions and get the tools, but they're about 30-40 mins away and it's a bit of a hassle. Plus I'd love to learn how to do it myself ;)
Again thanks a shit-load for taking the time to write this all up, it's very much appreciated!
You need something like a crank puller such as
(assuming its a square taper or similar)
http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Puller-Square-Cranks/dp/B001VS1M20/
to remove the old crank. Depending on the prices of your local bike shop, its probably cheaper to buy the tool and DIY.
It should be a fairly straight forward job, assuming that you are fairly handy. The key thing to look out for is making sure you put the cranks on tight enough, but not overly so that it cracks the crank. Then there are some other minor adjustments that you might need to make. E.g the front derailluer/shift probably need to be adjusted, it might be as simple as to playing around with the cable and limiting screws, or you might need to adjust the height of the derailleur.
If you are new at this, you probably need to spend a good afternoon to swap it over.
So it depends on $$$$ vs time.
You need a crank puller. Park Tool makes a good one.
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Just make sure you buy it from your local bike shop, not amazon
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