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Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube?
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Obligatory "vaseline degrades plastic" comment.
Here is a couple hundred keyboards worth of dielectric grease for $7.
If it's coming from the crank area, then you had a similar issue as I had, which was a 'thunk / click' every revolution. This was caused by a binding bearing(s) due to the thin oil dripping or drying out.
I was able to fix this with the following:
- Remove crank arms.
- Remove the flange bearing on each side of the bike, these are the silver pieces that surround the crank spindles.
- You will feel resistance as you remove the last flange bearing, so remove the last bearing slowly and rest the spindle on the side of the bearing cutout.
- Aquire some dielectric grease (or silicone lube), I specifically used:
Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease - Lather the bearing with the a liberal amount of lube, and work it into the gaps on each side of the bearing. Also lather it on the inner side of the bearing where the spindle inserts (and/or lather it on the spindle). The more the merrier.
- Put one bearing back in, and you'll need to pull the spindle a bit to get it back inside the bearing.
- Put the other bearing on and reattach the crank arms.
- The 'thonk / click' should now be gone and pedaling should feel significantly smoother.
The benefit of using dielectric grease /silicone lube here is it will not dry out, and it is hydrophobic, so dripping sweat will not wash away the lube while biking.
Hopefully this resolves your issue. I'm going to post this to the Concept 2 Bikerg forum as well since this seems to be a widespread issue.
If it does not resolve the issue, I believe you can contact support and they will send you new bearings to try. I'd still grease them up with the Permatex tune-up grease for the aforementioned reasons.
Good luck!
Dietrich grease should be your go-to for stabs regardless, esp since you don't already have g205g0 on hand. I'd always use dietrich grease and a huge tube of it is only $8
I pretreat my .22LR baffles & tubes with a thin, even coating of dielectric tune-up grease. After shooting, I have found that cleaning becomes a simple matter of wiping the parts down. (Prior to this, I was spending far too long soaking in a solvent bath, brushing, and going to town with a set of dental picks to get rid of accumulated lead.)
I will note that this coating is almost certainly going to outgas something quite toxic, so I mainly shoot outdoors (or indoors with a respirator).
Did you put any dielectric grease on it? It's a grease with metal in it to make bad connections waterproof, and also makes them work better.
If not that alone might fix it. Contact cleaner doesn't really remove rust or crappy connections, just grease and grim.
Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_E9GKSA1X28BNCVJ8D6GD
This is what you want. Great for all kinds of stuff that needs to be waterproof and or if you have something that has a loose or bad connection. This can help. Just a little on the plug side and pop it in. Try that first.
That is dielectric grease. Mines is all dry up. I notice when I was changing the halogen bulb to led. I order this dielectric grease on Amazon Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_BWFB0J5C3G2CVQDSVSYY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 and it does dry up like the one Honda put on.
What I did was check the battery connection. The black wire was loose. The nut was rusted and I wasn't able to turn it. So I hit the terminal and it will work. It is made out of lead and it is soft. Then it is nice and tight. If you don't want to care about rust so much I suggest you buy dielectric grease and put a thin layer on both sides. It works amazing.
Dielectric grease https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_HT5D3ABTBWMW43R5T3M8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
And like 5 months later the voltage drop a bit more. Then I bought new battery. I reapply Dielectric Grease on both terminal and the connector.
Oh and I notice if you clean the led with like a lens wipe. They seem to last longer. Also, I put dielectric grease on the connect area. Doesn't damage anything. I notice the one Honda used it dry up.
I use this. Don't over tighten the cap. It break easily. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_RWE6JMSZJVSWFZMDVHGY
No, use grease, not runny oils. You might be able to use traxxas 50k on switches (very very sparingly), but probably not on stabs.
Just get some like this for $7 on amazon.
Definitely not any fast lubes, way too runny.
I guess you could try traxxas, but there might be some conductivity issues. Safest thing to do would just be to buy a tube of permatex on amazon for $7.
I use this stuff. I put it on spark plug boots, battery thermals, light bulb sockets and sketchy electrical connections. I also use it inside my house for light bulb sockets, so when I put led bulbs in that supposedly last 20 years, me or the next person doesn’t have to worry about a bulb fused into the socket.
A car battery that has a pile of corrosion can easily be removed, just dump a can of Coke on it.
I actually didn't have that problem with mine :/ My only problem was the stabs wobbling like crazy, but i'r pretty sure some nice lube will fix that. I got this from amazon. Probably wayyy too much for my needs but at least i know i will never run out haha
Agreed.
OP: The original terminals on the HO are cheap shit. I have to literally hammer mine on and use dialectic grease to get a good connection.
Use a socket of suitable size the get equal pressure when lightly tapping down until they have no wiggle left. Don't smash them on as you may break something. And use dialectic grease.
In the Nathan Kim stabilizer lube video he uses Permatex 22058 Dielectric grease for Metal on Plastic scenario. I read somewhere on Reddit someone said that he since switched to using Kyrtox 205 in the the whole stabilizer tho.
I found some Permatex 22058 on Amazon UK. Not sure if that's expensive, I think it's roughly how much I paid in US. I do put some Krytox or Tribosys on the plastic on plastic parts tho.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/
Remove, clean, and re-lube the stabs with Permatex 22058.
Edit: sorry, I forgot your keyboard is likely not hot-swap. You will have to desolder the space bar switch to remove the stabilizers.
Rattling is from the stabilizer bar in the housing and the plastic rubbing. If this were hotswap I would recommend pulling them out and following the Taeha Types guide. You might be able use a syringe and get some Dielectric grease in there. Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dEGfFbGQEH5AN
Dielectric Grease this is what a lot of people use for stabs. I just used it, and with clipping and band-aiding the stabs, this works really well, no ping at all.
No experience with Krytox bought off amazon so I can't answer that question. I think I have some 205G0 that I got from NovelKeys or somewhere else, and I lubed some switches with it and it seems fine. I prefer Tribosys 3204 though.
Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2
That's the one? Can you please me a link on lubing my stabs? I can only find videos of switch lubing in which they open switches up and I can't do that as you said without desoldering.
This is just extra info as I don't know where the arcing is coming from: I've read in an old forum post that if the anode cap isn't secured for whatever reason there can be arcing. When I reattached the last cap I used a bead of this grease underneath for a good seal:
I mean I guess I'm lubing both, so that's good that it wasn't a completely wasteful for me to have already bought it.
How about this?
You also possibly installed a higher wattage bulb than stock, I would get some dielectric grease and lubricate the socket and the pins on your new bulb because it’ll help dissipate the heat. It will also help make the connector more waterproof. Be careful to remove any and all contaminants from the glass part the lightbulb after you use this. Even your fingerprints on the glass will make the bulb burn out sooner.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_c_knoYAbDWZFBE3
For the stems, I use Krytox 1514. You can get a 3ml vial at mehkee for not much. (That's enough to lube all the switches on a full size board, but it's the smallest amount you'll find.)
For the wires (where the metal wires meet the plastic stabilizer) I use delectric grease that I got from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2/
As for how to do it, there are videos on youtube that show you, but basically you use the thinner Krytox on the black plastic where the stem rubs against the housing. (Wherever there's friction). The thicker grease goes where the metal meets the plastic and keeps it from rattling around. Make sure you use dielectric grease because it's non-conductive. You don't want to short out anything on your PCB.
Best stab lube by far. Dirt cheap, doesn't break down, dry up, or evaporate, and gives a smooth, solid glide with a high amount of friction and sound reduction. Anywhere that metal touches plastic, put a rice grain-sized dollop of this and smear it around in the contact point.
Extreme Fluoro is terrible for stabs. I know it's in the Ripster guide, but I've used it more than once when I was starting building, and it's garbo.
It dries up and crumbles after a few weeks, and constantly needs to be re-applied.
Rockydbull already suggested Super Lube, I personally use dielectric grease (they're basically the same product). This is a bigger tube but it's a little cheaper.
I have never had to re-lube a stabilizer I've lubed properly with this stuff. Not even after months of usage.
I have some impressions after using the keyboard for a day:
- The tackiness of the dycem totally affects the travel and the sound (but the sound is pretty quiet relative to the thock). Since it's sticky it takes a tiny bit of extra force to press each key.
- I'm still not sure if I like the extra force required on each key. It's not the original topre force curve any more, if you want to be a purist about it. It honestly feels fine for now. It kinda just feels like the tops of the sliders are sticky. It's not the best but I think I could get used to it. I'm too lazy to try some other material...
- There's a bit of a "warm-up time" with the keyboard in the morning because the Dycem had hours to get stuck to the housing and sliders.
- There is very little wobble in the keys now, probably because the dycem is a non-slip material.
- I used cheap dielectric grease to lube my stabilizers. I just put a little bit on a toothpick and put that toothpick in where the metal and the plastic met. It makes an enormous difference in the sound of the board. I'll probably get some thinner lube for the rest of the keyboard at some time in the future.
- If anybody is going to try to silence their Topre keyboard with their own rings (not hyperspheres), one of the most important things to look for is consistency in thickness of the material. A lot of cheaper foam providers have pretty poor tolerances.
- I missed OEM/cherry profile so much. I've been typing on DSA/SA keycaps for the past couple of years, and this profile is so much easier for me to type on.
Getting rid of the rust in a socket is pretty impossible. You can however apply this.
And your socket will work again in most cases. If not you need to cut off the connector and splice in a new one.
While I’m waiting on my Lumina to come in, I figure I’d do a cheaper, experimental tactile build.
Keyboard: Duck Sidewinder Gray
Stabs: GMK Screw in Stabalizers w/ Walker Mod (no adhesive sticker)
Switches: Holy Razers
Halo True stems
Krytox 205 GPL 0
Butyl Rubber
Keycaps:
I needed something to scratch my itch while I wait for my Lumina, so I decided to pick up the Duck Sidewinder and screw around with some mods. I have a bunch of halo’s and Outemu Ice V2’s lying around, so I decided to pick up some Greetech switches to mess around with. After lubing them up with Krytox 205, I had a good set of holy razers, and I’m pretty happy with them.
I’ve used butyl rubber to deaden the sound in my keyboards before, but this is the first time using it on the spacebar. I actually like the added weight in the spacebar, and I had no idea if I would or not.
As far as the caps go… Truth be told, I’m not much of a fan, but I was hoping the dark blue would bring out the blue tones in the case, and I think it did pretty well. I’ll keep them on for bit and see if they grow on me. It's just hard to find a good set of caps that are colemak compatible. Currently I'm waiting on these.
I’m pretty excited to have this as my daily driver for awhile :)
Podes usar una grasa dielectrica como esta https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B000AL8VD2/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=3638&creative=24630&creativeASIN=B000AL8VD2&linkCode=as2&tag=uryftw-21&linkId=5aa1e3c91058051a3d9448df30d8c5cc
Pero si lo que te molesta es el ruido, podes probar cambiando por algun teclado que tengas switches brown o similares
Here's the fix, my backspace key used to do that and fall off.
You need to put lube on the white parts of your stabilizer, and grease the stems of the stabilizer. Here is the grease and the lube. Grease goes on the stems of the stabilizers and the lube goes on the outer walls of the white part of your stabilizers. YOU DO NOT NEED A LOT. The stabilizers should go up and down just like the switches even though they do not have springs. Again only lubricate the outer walls of white part. Stick the stems into the grease so that is covers up to the part where the stem goes at a 90 degree angle. The stabilizers will be tough to pull out but you will get them out no problem.
Here are both the lube and grease links:
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2?th=1
This is what I used:
- dielectric grease: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
- liquid tape: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QUOU50?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
- silicon sealant: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BBX3U?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
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How to access the connectors inside: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ic5xPbTDFMg
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Also don't forget the tire sealant: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08TFGLRL1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1-
>stabilzer wire
Permatex 22058 this is a good choice, and reducing the amount of grease used, using Teflon tape on pcb where stabs can be touched.
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2?th=1
Is this what you mean? Thanks for the tip.
Also yes, it was snowing tonight took the battery into work, put the cover on and then dropped a rag on top of that to keep any moisture from dripping in.
Does just a dab do, or what happens if I use to much? Thanks again.
steel single gang plate, https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-1-Gang-Weatherproof-Replacement-Gaskets-WGS100/300847657
can of nice paint to match your brick, https://www.homedepot.com/p/GLIDDEN-MAX-FLEX-12-oz-Satin-Earthy-Cane-Interior-Exterior-All-Surface-Spray-Paint-and-Primer-GMF1028-54/319420357
weather gasket for the plate, https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-1-Gang-Weatherproof-Replacement-Gaskets-WGS100/300847657
short tek screws, https://www.homedepot.com/p/Teks-8-x-3-4-in-Zinc-Plated-Steel-Philips-Drill-Truss-Head-Point-Lath-Screws-200-Pack-21524/100175766
silicone for sealing the screw holes and around the KO of the plate, https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-Clear-Silicone-2-7-fl-oz-Waterproof-Sealant-908570/303769575
dielectric grease for treating the RJ connector, https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/
all of the above will be cheaper that the step-bit that Pestus613343 is recommending, and you won't have a box hanging off your wall :)
you'll knock the center KO out of the plate, and use that to run the cables through. be sure to clean the plate with alcohol or some other de-greaser for the paint to properly adhere.
The “wax” you are referring are lubricants. This does indeed help make switches smoother, and are usually only reserved for use on linear or tactile switches. Clicky switches, like your MX-blues, are not suitable to the use of lubricant because it’ll essentially undermine the “clicky” nature of those switches and reduce their tactility overall.
Lubricant
That said, to answer your question regardless, most people use Krytox 205g0 as a key switch lubricant. Although Tribosys 3203 or 3204 are sometimes preferred for tactile switches since they are less viscous, and therefore do not reduce the tactility of those switches as much. Finally, for reducing spring noise, Krytox 105 oil is often used by adding all the springs in a ziploc bag with a few (15-20) drops of oil, and shaking them for a while before adding them back into the switch. This is something you can do for your clicky switches if you prefer.
People also use lubricant to reduce the rattle of their stabilizers, which is something you can do regardless of your switches, and offers a huge improvement. For stabilizers, Krytox 205g0 works, but Dialectric grease is better for the wires since it is more viscous. Krytox also makes a stabilizer specific lube called XHT-BDZ, but since it’s very viscous, it may cause them to be sluggish if you’re not careful in how much you apply.
Cleaning
Finally, for cleaning the board itself, i recommend removing the keycaps and brushing away any debris between your switches with a brush or vacuum, then wiping the whole board down with 70% isopropyl alcohol or simply with a small amount of water on a microfiber towel.
Keycaps can be cleaned using dish soap and water, or by using denture cleaning tablets in water. Either way, be sure to dry them completely before putting them back on your keyboard.
Hope that helps!
Nothing wrong with some true Dielectric grease in a connector to prevent corrosion. I don't normally use in on coax so I would go very light on it. I do use it on rotor and 12VDC connections. Get 3M 88 Super tape to do your first wrap of coax. The get Coax Seal to go over that. It makes for the cleanest disassemble down the road.
I used Elecom's MouseAssistant to remap middle click to the small button next to left click. It works so much better than trying to middle click with the scroll wheel, as I would always end up scrolling down when trying to middle click a link.
The scroll wheel will get smoother over time, but it's still more noticeably notched than most scroll wheels. You could take the mouse apart by following this guide and apply a light coat of dielectric grease on the notches inside the scroll wheel. I haven't done this yet, but it's one of the things I plan to do when I swap out the bearings of my Deft Pro.
Yes, I use dielectric grease. Generous amount applied. Works great.
Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_6R0ZFW48FER16NYA6BA7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
.22 LR is some of the dirtiest ammunition still in production. This leads to a great deal of carbon and lead buildup in the can, to the point that it can eventually cause obstructions.
Personally, I recommend cleaner subsonic ammunition when shooting suppressed. Additionally, I have found that applying a thin, even coating of dielectric tune-up grease to the internals of your suppressor makes cleaning much easier. (You'll still need to occasionally do a deep cleaning to remove stuck-on deposits, but most fouling will just wipe off.)
Hey! Question, is this the stuff?
Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_69PWXT7K64Y5RBFT7VPA
Hey! Question, is this the stuff?
Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_69PWXT7K64Y5RBFT7VPA
is this good Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ERH6GZ5J29M33BFS713S
a little extra dielectric grease might help in conditions like this. of course you'd have to have used it beforehand.
Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ECZ6BG9PG0RZ6BG42CFX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Sounds like rust on the terminals. Make sure it is tight, and I suggest getting dielectric grease. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 wear gloves and put some on both side of the terminals. I remember my 2018 Honda Fit EX the black wire was loose. Those I wasn't able to tighten the nut. Both terminals are made out of lead so it is soft. I think it was Eric the car guy that say just hit the terminals and the lead will expand. Now doesn't move any more.
The key is only for opening driver side door, and manually over riding your gear shift.
Try this.
Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_P2GWMJR64874S1VM6HCN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I normally use dielectric grease
Theres a list of possible mods (sorry if it's too long):
- Lube stabilizers (always recommended) There's lots of tutorials on YT, so just look one up. If you have Gateron browns (tactiles) then I'd recommend a thinner lube like Tribosys 3203. I like Krytox 205g0, but it's pretty thick, so be very careful to apply very little to preserve tactility. https://www.ashkeebs.com/product/tribosys-3203-switch-lubricant/
- Lube switches (almost always recommended) Also lots of tutorials on YT. Use a thicker lube, like Krytox 205g0 or dielectric grease. https://divinikey.com/products/krytox-gpl-205-grade-0-switch-lubricant https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2
- Holee mod (often recommended) This is a really cheap and effective way to completely eliminate stab rattle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vhpHjlkRgQ
- Add case foam (often recommended) This changes the board's sound signature. Just put in under the between the case and pcb and maybe between the pcb and plate. Here's a sound comparison between various common foam materials https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kP5ySZikxp8
- Get o-rings (sometimes recommended) Stick them on the stem of they keycaps. They change the sound of key bottom outs. I recommend them for unlubed switches, and less for lubed switches. They can make the bottom out feel mushy tho. Amazon should have lots of options.
- Get artisan keys (purely visual, depends) They look pretty, but they're expensive. Look on drop, etsy, amazon, google, etc.
I see you're getting a lot of "get a new board" feedback, which is to be expected on this sub. Since I'm familiar with that board (my son has one) and you like the media features (which you're unlikely to find exact replicas of on an "enthusiast" board), let me try to address the issues you raised in the context of improving the K70.
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>Large key "wiggle" (Shift keys, spacebar, etc. I want a sturdier feel to the press
The larger keys sit on both switches and stabilizers, and the problem you are describing is no doubt due to the stabilizer.
- The K70 uses plate mount stabs, which are less stable than PCB mount stabs, and the stock stabs on the K70 are pretty awful.
- While you can't change to PCB mount stabs, you can in theory put better plate mount stabs on the board.
- However, this would require you to open the board and desolder the switches for the stabilized keys, as the switches trap the stabilizer wire in place.
- If you're not up for that, then you can at least lube the stabs, which you can do without removing them. I'd recommend keeping it simple and getting some inexpensive Permatex dielectric grease. Pop off the spacebar, pull up on the stab stems with tweezers or small pliers, and pump the grease into the hole in the stab. If you see it start to come out of the back of the stab where the wire is, you've done it right.
​
>Sound. Even though the feel of the keypress is pretty quiet, I want to go quieter (ESPECIALLY on the spacebar. There's nothing silent about it.)
The sound of the K70 isn't awful as far as big brand boards go, but the thin crappy keycaps and bad stabs don't help. Things that can help with sound in rough order of effort:
- Use the board on a deskmat
- Lube the stabs
- Replace the keycaps (see below)
- Add dampener inside the top of the spacebar
- Add sound dampener inside the case -- I don't know how easy it would be to do this in the K70 as I haven't opened up the case.
As far as dampening materials go, you can find a range of options from dedicated case foam to shelf liner to whatever. I happen to use 1/8" rubber & felt carpet pad because I have a bunch left over from when we put a rug in our living room. It works quite well and it was free. ;-)
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>Keycaps: I'm not a huge fan of the stock font on Corsiar and am looking for something heftier and significantly more matte finish (potentially textured). I've read that Corsair keyboards' keycaps don't follow standard keycap sizing conventions? Not sure about any of that.
The stock keycaps on the K70 are pretty awful. Not only do they have that corny "gamer" type font, they are very thin ABS plastic, which affects both the feel and the sound.
- The first thing you need to decide is if you can give up the shine-through RGB feature. This will open up many more options, but if you game in the dark or just really like the feature, you'll probably want to look for caps that support it.
- Two compatibility notes: you don't want "Cherry profile" keycaps and yes, the Corsair K70 uses some nonstandard sizes on the bottom row.
- Compare the pictures of the K70 with this Ducky full-size that uses standard ANSI layout. The differences are nicely illustrated on this page at maxkeyboard.com.
- Specifically, you need two 1.5u, two 1.25u, three 1u, and a 6.5u spacebar.
- It is possible to find keycap sets that include the necessary keys for the K70, you just have to ensure that it has all the keys you need for the bottom row.
- Maxkeyboard is one of the vendors that does provide keycaps that work, and they even have shine through keycaps with fonts of your choice.
- There are some keycap sets specifically for Corsair, like this one.
- You can also look for keycap sets on AliExpress or Amazon that either mention Corsair compatibility like this or show you a visual map & you can see it has the necessary keys like this.
​
I hope you found this helpful and let us know what you decide to do.
This stuff good enough?
1u or 1 unit is the way we measure keycap sizes. A standard keyboard has a 2.75u right shift while yours has a 1u one. You don't have a 1u keycap that says "Shift" but the "Sys" keycap is the right size and profile so it's a good replacement IMO.
People like lubing the inside of their stabilizers with thick lubes like Krytox 205g0 and lube the wire with Permatex dielectric grease. You can check out a great stabilizer modding tutorial here.
Yeah I've got some stab lube I've been using that seems alright. It's a small grey tube I got from Amazon. Might be called permatex?
Edit: I think it's this stuff
For Lubing stablizers the 2 most used types of "lubricants" are either Krytox 205g0 or Permatex Dielectric Grease .
If you are not sure how much to put on and not sure how to do it i highly suggest watching Taeha Types video about lubing and clipping stablizers. In his video he uses the Permatex Grease but you can replace it with for example Krytox 205g0 like i said earlier.
Remeber to test your stablizers after lubing them to check if they need more/less lube
> Yeah I plan to limit the power. Using the motor calculator going 25mph on the flat should be about 600w. Assuming I am doing some work to pedal I should be comfortably under the 500w rating.
Throw some statorade in there and give yourself plenty of overhead. It's a very nice upgrade. With the thermal sensor and CAv3 you can play around with different power ratings without worrying about accidentally roasting a expensive motor. Also see if you can find a big old CPU heatsink and attatch it to the bottom of the phase runner and make sure it gets plenty of air.
This setup should have zero issues going 28mph at 52v.
Plus with the phase runner being a FOC you can take advantage of field weakening to improve acceleration and top speed at the upper half of the rpm range. The trade off is a efficiency penalty.
With my CAv3 and cheap DD ebay kit I keep it normally capped at 750 watts and 25mph. I have yet to meet a hill I had any trouble with as long as I did my part pedalling.
I am perfectly happy to keep the power capped 95% of the time. But it's nice to be open it up occasionally. Plus I enjoy messing around with the technology.
> Any suggestions for throttles to use on a drop bar bike?
If you have old handle bars you can cut the ends off, drill some holes in one end, and add some zip-ties. This will make little numbs you can strap to strategic location on your drop bar which will take a thumb throttle.
If you don't have any donor tubing to use that is the right size:
https://www.ebikes.ca/handle-bob.html
Also there are cheaper little plastic things you can find on Amazon that are for attaching extra things like phone mounts or lights.
> Are all the connectors I need usually in these sorts of kits? If so how water proof are they?
Water isn't going to be a issue in most cases except for long term corrosion.
The HiGO connnections are water proof, but the rest are not.
To make it easy to dissassemble/reassemble stuff and to protect from corrosion:
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2
5 bucks will get you enough grease that it'll last a lifetime.
I’m not a big fan of lubing switches. I use dielectric grease on the stabilizers though - $5 from Amazon. Works great. Made for electronics work. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
should work, this is what i use
Lube: https://www.1upkeyboards.com/shop/parts-and-tools/lubricant/switch-lubricant-2ml/ (Tribosys 3203)
Grease for stabs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Stabs: https://novelkeys.xyz/collections/miscellaneous/products/cherry-stabilizers
Video: https://youtu.be/cD5Zj-ZgMLA
Hope this helps!
Is this an appropriate lube for Cherry stabs?
Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wigqFbMVEKZBD
For lube I just used dielectric grease: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2
Otherwise just some plain old fabric bandaids, wire cutter to clip to stabs, and tweezers.
Here's what I bought a few weeks ago.
It seems like the large size is sold out. I think /r/mk bought it all! The small size is still available though.
I use this dielectric grease from amazon on my stabs
Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pKXkFbT776YQ4
You can find dielectric grease and teflon grease on Amazon, but those are only for the stabilizer bars and the stabilizer's plastic housing respectively. I haven't been able to find the right Krytox 205g0/2095g00 or Tribosys 3203/3204 on Amazon
Hey guys, I'm preparing to make some modifications to my Drop CTRL and I was hoping I could get some advice, confirmation, or suggestions.
I currently have everything stock, except for BOX Royal switches that I installed a couple years ago when I bought the keyboard. My goal is to improve the sound and the feel (of course).
Here is what I'm planning:
-Replace stock stabs with Genuine Cherry Plate-Mounted Stabilizers (flashquark)
-Lube and clip stabs with Permatex 22058 Dielectric Grease (Amazon)
-Install Sorbothane and/or shelf liner between the plate <-> pcb and pcb <-> bottom of case (Amazon)
-Possibly lube and install Zealio V2 62g with TriboSys 3204 (1up Keyboards)
Here are some of my main questions:
-Should I be using Krytox 205g0 for either lubing the stabs or switches?
-Is the band-aid mod worth it on a plate-mounted keyboard?
-Is the sorbothane worth it? I've seen various methods but I don't have any great tools for cutting it besides box cutters. Which space should I prioritize filling (plate <-> pcb or pcb <-> bottom of case)? Should I just use the shelf liner that I linked and already own?
-Will getting "better" keycaps noticeably improve the sound?
I appreciate any feedback!
I ordered permatex tuneup dielectric grease on amazon but the wrong item. Will this still work? It doesn't say tuneup but I'm guessing that's just marketing... The product specification is the same (67VR) as found on other items
I asked this question and the answer they gave me was use the 205g0 for housing of stabilizers and then use Dielectric for the stabilizer bar. I ordered this one on amazon Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_C1YBEb8YKR4C4. For stabilizers you can’t go wrong with Durock they are in stock on Novelkeys https://novelkeys.xyz/products/durock-stabilizers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2
About $6.88.
Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease Tube was a suggestion I got from a YouTuber and it works really well so far. A bit expensive but you don't use a lot so lasts forever.
​
Also for plastic on plastic lube (the stems of the stabilizers, do not use inside of switches) this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002L5UL92/?coliid=I3VPHHQD2B8350&colid=J58MB1DVXYQQ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Sorry this comment is so long haha. I could go on for hours about these stupid switches.
I mean, I have some SK*B*M White Alps(these are slit-less, like your damped whites) that still feel wonderful(a far cry from SKCM Whites, but still), and were very clean. I'd imagine a cleaning and a lube will help them greatly. End of life SKCM is still better than any current Matias or the most recent SKBM Alps that Matias are based off of.
If you used Tribosys 3204 on them, that could've contributed to the worse feeling as well. I personally haven't lubed any of my Alps switches besides a bit of dielectric grease to eliminate spring ping, and that's a 100% worthwhile thing to do to every switch ever imo. Alps switches much prefer dry lubes, and wet lubes like Tribosys or any other MX suitable lube makes them feel goofy.
Denture tabs can be found at any store, and they're made for dentures, but their oxidization works wonders on a whole lot of different things, just no metal. Think of them as OxiClean(the laundry kind) bit for plastics.
Basically, just take only the top housing and slider(don't forget to take out the dampening rubber tabs) and drop them in the denture tab solution, blowing the dust out first with canned air or a DataVac. Let them sit in there for a while, maybe not 12 hours for only a couple testers, but still a decent amount of time. Once they're done, just squeeze a tiny(barely coat the spring) bit of dielectric grease on each end of the spring and put em back together. If you're going to dry lube them, I wouldn't be able to give advice, as I haven't dry lubed, but I'm sure you can find a tutorial somewhere. They should be silky smooth after that.
As far as what you'll like in the Alps spectrum, it is very difficult to base it off of MX switches, as none have really done a good job at recreating Alps' feels. If you like tactility, I think Alps are the way to go, but for linears, MX are your better option. The designs of each switch are inherently tactile or linear respectively, so neither is a flat out better switch. Alps tactility(though I've heard the oranges feel a whole lot different, and I want some so bad!) is what you'll get from the white damped switches, as long as you can get them smooth, it's rounded and... elegant?(goofy word to use, but it makes sense) If you find buckling springs too loud, you won't enjoy Alps clicky switches. They're loud, but it's such a good sound. Honestly, if your favorite switch is Topre, you may like the cream and white damped more than most, as long as your examples are good. These are the closest to rubber dome I've personally felt in a switch, but they a still are noticeably mechanical.
You can also use very cheap dielectric grease used for automobile parts that have to be careful around electricity. $5 tube on Amazon here - works great. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
would this lube be fine for lubing cherry stabs? or finish line?
For connectors that are constantly exposed to moisture, this product can help. Especially headlight connectors, dissipates heat real well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_c_knoYAbDWZFBE3
> Dielectric grease
Thanks, would this product be fine?
Depends - are you lubing switches or stabilizers? The type of lube depends on the type of switch. For stabilizers, I always use this stuff, as it's super cheap and high-performance with no drying or shrinking.
For linear switches, you want a good Krytox oil (like VPF 1514), and for tactile switches you want a good Krytox grease (like GPL 204/205). Luckily, you can get inexpensive quantities of either from Mehkee, and each tube is more than sufficient for doing a large number of switches. Buying a container of Krytox oil/grease on it's own is crazy expensive, and unless you're going to be building dozens of keyboards, not worth it.
This is your friend for all electrical connections on a boat: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2
I got a tube of this from Amazon (it's a ton). Not sure if it's the best out there but its dielectric and the price is right. https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2
This stuff. Apply a thin coating to all areas of friction. Enjoy in good health.
For stabilizer lube, I went with this which is much cheaper and is listed as one of the lube suggestions in the wiki over there >>>>
Something like this might work. yeah, i'll leave a bit of grease in the phone, but it shouldn't come out after the first few times.
My hood was already sealed, but you can use dielectric grease on the connectors. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2
Here’s the real stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_c_knoYAbDWZFBE3
Dielectric Grease for $7 is probably your best bet.
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