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Pledge Floor Gloss Liquid, Sealed Wood Protector, Removes Dirt, Polish To Help Keep Floors Shiny, Original Scent, 27 fl oz?
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Pledge floor wax, under plastic wineglasses from Walmart to keep the dust out while drying.
Put the pledge into a dropper bottle, you can apply a drop directly to the area you want to work with and push around with a brush. Because it takes a few minutes to dry, it self levels out the brush strokes, but you should cover it while drying to keep clean of dust and hair.
Use as protective layer, mix with paint as glaze, apply before doing chipping, or seal whole mini and then airbrush, because overspray is much easier to remove from clear coat than from paint.
Thin coats, and try to leave surface level while it dries, since it dries slower than other products, you don't want it sliding down hill.
Frankly it has so many uses I'm still exploring. Use anywhere you would use lahmian medium, and most places you would use ardcoat. It's about seventy times cheaper, so you can afford to experiment.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_xSd8BbJQS4J8Q
Here's an amazon link to the floor polish you're looking for. It's the same stuff, they just took the "future" off the packaging.
Pledge Floor Gloss is what you want. It's as thin as water (thinner, even), so it will get down into the pin. Just dab some down the sides of the hinge, move the tail to distribute it, let it dry and it will tighten up the hinge. Also good for tightening loose ball joints.
Pledge Floor Gloss Polish (formerly Pledge Future Polish) is great for tightening joints. Just drip or rub a small amount into the joint (I use a pipette) you want to tighten and allow to dry for a few hours. Removable w/ water. Amazon Link
Here's an amazon link for Future Floor Polish.
They changed the label a little while back, so it doesn't say Future on it anymore, but it is the same product.
I use this stuff all the time, and it is very effective at tightening joints. If robot disassembly isn't your thing, you can even use an eyedropper or pipette to apply it directly into pinholes and joints.
After curing for 24 hours, even a small amount worked into a joint can make a huge difference.
An extra bonus is that it is fairly water-soluble, so you can undo a tightening or clean off excess with just a little water.
It’s Pledge Future Polish/Floor Polish in a new bottle. A viscous acrylic gloss sealer.
Buy this and save your money.
Pledge Floor Gloss Liquid, Sealed Wood Protector, Removes Dirt, Polish To Help Keep Floors Shiny, Original Scent, 27 fl oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5qlMFb8449WZE
You want something with acrylic in it. This is what Amazon brings up; check the reviews to make sure it’s what you want. Apparently they no longer make the stuff I bought two years ago.
I'd recommend a high gloss clear acrylic for topcoat. Shop around and see what kinds are sold in your area as it varies wildly by country.
If you're airbrushing I'd recommend investing in a bottle of pledge: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HQ4FFb9GKJR76
It's not going to protect the model against heavy scraping but it's more than enough for day to day handling and doesn't really dull mettalics at all. And a single bottle will last for years.. makes a great smooth surface to apply decals on too.😁
You're looking for what used to be called Future Floor Wax.
For whatever reason they keep changing the name of it. It's currently called Pledge Revive It Floor Gloss.
They sell this all over the place at like Walmart and grocery stores. IIRC it's extra expensive on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aMllFb7Y0ZVW5
Basically, all you do is squirt it into the joint.
Let it dry
Squirt some more.
Let it dry.
Squirt some more.
Let it dry.
Etc.
It's like glue that doesn't glue. Instead it just increases friction in the joint.
Basically, you're just clogging the joint with wax.
For light joints on light limbs, and joints that are ALMOST tight enough, you may only need one application.
For joints meant to hold heavy limbs, and joints that are super loose, it may require numerous coats to build up.
Obviously there are limits to how loose a joint it can be, or how heavy a limb the wax build up can help support.
But it definitely DOES work in a lot of cases.
I tightened up the hip joints on my Siege Ultra Magnus, and now they're nice and tight. And those are fairly chunky limbs with the armor on.
So yea, give it a shot. If it gets somewhere it's not meant to (in terms of non-porous surfaces), you can just wipe it off beforeit dries or even just easily scratch it off after it dries. Obviously don't get it on your clothes, carpet or furniture.
Sand with increasing grits of sandpaper (rough to smooth). dip in water. The part will be very smooth and clear again.
If you want further shininess, get some Pledge floor care and brush some onto the clear piece. It'll look brand new
A top coat will help protect the paint underneath. It can also help give that dull or gloss look that you want and help give a bare kit less of that toy look to it. A gloss can help paint flow into panel lines better, then another coat to secure the lines or anything else that you put on.
If it is a bare kit and you don't plan on panel lining or decaling, and you don't care about the oob look, then don't worry about top coat. If you want to panel line, decal or pretty well anything but a straight build then do a top coat.
As for the brands. A gloss top coat can be had for pretty cheap actually. This stuff will go a very long way. Other modelers have been using it for many years. It can be both hand brushed, and used in an airbrush. If you want a dull coat, you can use flat base mixed in with it to make your own flat coat. If you get lazy, I've used model master flat coat many times. Usually though, the cheaper spray can top coats will spray on thicker. That may interfere with movement, ect.
The floor cleaner and the spray bottle will not work.
You need an acrylic floor POLISH.
This is the stuff most often recommended, but the current price is ridiculous. Usually this sells for around $10 per bottle.
https://www.amazon.com/Pledge-11182-Revive-Transparent-Liquid/dp/B000ARPH4C/
I haven’t used personally. Seen others say it’s safe to use. Only word of caution would be that they also say it goes on thick and fast.
I personally use pledge future for clear coating as it can be applied out the container - dipped, sprayed, brushed.
Pledge 11182 Revive It Floor... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000ARPH4C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It depends on what kind of tolerance issues you're having with your tabs and pegs, but the short answer is: probably not.
Floor polish is good for tightening joints, but it probably wouldn't last long on tabs and pegs since the motion of plugin them together and separating them would wear the floor polish off very quickly.
If you do need to tighten joints, this is the floor polish you want: https://www.amazon.com/Pledge-11182-Revive-Transparent-Liquid/dp/B000ARPH4C
Give the floor polish trick a try. Basically apply a little bit of floor polish to the joint helps thicken it and tighten it overall, without worry of fusing the joint. I've had very good luck with it. For example Buzzworthy Fangry was absolutely floppy before. Now he stands no problems at all. Pledge Revive It Floor Gloss is the stuff I used. If you want to give it a go take a look on Youtube, I know Vangilus did a video on how to do it for example.
I think they were originally made in the US, but the branding changed a bit. It’s called Pledge now but you have to make sure you get one that is an acrylic floor polish. It seems like it’s hard to find the exact one now though.
I found another thread that linked this one. You could check your Walmart or other local stores if you have a chance.
Read a while back that this pledge solution works just as well.
Pledge Floor Gloss Liquid, Sealed Wood Protector, Removes Dirt, Polish To Help Keep Floors Shiny, Original Scent, 27 fl oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VYKRCZ7ZEV7PMKTRWRDX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Yes. Pledge formerly known as future.
Its literally high gloss acrylic.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_VTPR5X7FY3R9Q7F1SZV5
Do a web sesrch for pledge + future + miniatures. The stuff is awesome, especially for decal work.
Thanks, so this is the right stuff?
Pledge Floor Gloss Liquid, Sealed Wood Protector, Removes Dirt, Polish To Help Keep Floors Shiny, Original Scent, 27 fl oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_CQXRFbS6XB9HR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Not OP, but I use this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MdMnFbJAF6DYN
It's very thin and great at self leveling so you can spray at the same psi you'd use for thinned acrylics like Vallejo air. Just make sure you spray on multiple thin coats rather than one heavy dose as A: a single coat is not very protective and B: despite the self leveling you can still end up with pooling if you overspray. Touch dry very quickly, in a couple of hours tops, fully cured overnight.
Maybe the wrong polish? I don't know, this is the stuff I use:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPH4C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I haven't had any problems. I just use a q-tip soaked in the stuff and do a layer over the joint and inside the socket. I've also found it works well on pin joints and in fitting things like head covers (I got a Shapeways helmet for TR Galvatron that would pop off if he was handled, a layer of wax inside the helmet and he was good to go)
This stuff. Notice the "Also bought" section is full of stuff for doing model kits.
I don't know if it'll help, or if Amazon isn't an option but this is what I use.
And you only have to buy it once, a bottle will last forever, essentially.
Hello, So i have frequently seen pledge future floor finish suggested as an alternative means to topcoat via airbrushing. I am looking online and there are multiple versions of pledge.
Is this the correct version?: https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_23_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1515271157&sr=1-23&keywords=pledge
the absolute cheapest route, and safest for paint compatability, is Pledge (aka Future Floor Polish). https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1504883161&sr=8-1&keywords=future+floor+polish
It is super tough, doesn't yellow, and will not react poorly with any type of paint. Oh, and you can brush or spray it on.
I use acrylic paints so I use my airbrush to seal it with Pledge Ultimate Floor care (Used to be called Pledge with Future and is much cheaper at Lowe's than Amazon) acrylic sealer. I then add my decals and weathering then spray the entire model with the varnish I will be using. Either glass, matte, or satin.
The major modeling paint companies all have good top coat and varnish options out. Also, check out some videos on YouTube. There are some great resources out there too.
It's called Pledge Floor Care Multi-Surface Finish in the US, and goes by various names around the world. Walmart carries it, costs around $6 for a bottle that could clear coat hundreds of models.
It also works pretty well on floors :)
I've been trying the "Future Floor Polish" method. Actually with this stuff since it was renamed.
I make a 50-50 mix of floor finish with water, then add a pretty small amount of dark brown or black paint (I'm using craft acrylic paints from Michaels), and use that as a wash on my terrain. It's turned out reasonably well so far but it took a bit of experimentation to figure out I didn't need very much paint.
Edit to add: this has the advantage of all being water-based so it's easier to clean up than oil-based wood stains.
I have one dwarf whose like that. If you want to try to fix it, put a drop of super glue or plege floor finish on his hips and work the joints for a few minutes to get it inside and it'll dry while your still moving the legs and that should help tighten them up.
NO!! it is laquer based and may cause the acrylic paint to run. A lot of people use this Future floor care its cheap and lasts for ever and will not damage acrylics.
I don't know if this is the same thing, but this is what it is called in the US:
Is this what you purchased? This is the American version (may be called something else in other countries), it does not have ammonia in it. Ammonia will eat acrylic paint if that is what you used to paint your model.
You could try applying Future Shine to fill in the scratches:
https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C
I use this on scratched LEGO parts, and it works great. Paint it onto the surface, let it dry for a bit, buff off the excess.
Which part is floppy?
You can cover the floppy joints with layers of this stuff till it's no longer floppy.
I've used floor polish tightening a few times, never on a metal part like BW's tail rudder, but I assume it would be just as effective. I might have to give that a shot on mine. Here's a link to amazon for the polish. They redesigned the label at some point, so it doesn't have the "future" thing on there anymore, but it's the same stuff.
I'd advise against plastic cement. This will degrade the plastic, as it welds two pieces of plastic together rather than merely adhering them. Instead, get some Future Floor Polish (an acrylic that is no longer called 'Future' but is always referred to as such) and brush it onto the piece you want to thicken:
That's not the same as I use, from the looks of the back it's not an acrylic like the "Floor Finish". You might want to look for this bottle. Or just order it online. http://www.amazon.co.uk/27OZ-FUTURE-FLOOR-FINISH-Kitchen/dp/B000ARPH4C
I also remember it being called klear in the uk but I'm not 100%
There is also the option of pre mixed paints. I suck major donkey ass at mixing for airbrush. Instead, I use Vallejo air. Some of the darker colors still require a drop or two of water to further thin them out. However they are usually ready for brush out of the bottle. They can also be hand brushed when needed.
On the second part, if I get what you're asking, yes and no. A clear coat is any coat that is clear and usually designed to help seal the paint and/or give it a different luster. They come in dull, semi gloss and gloss. A lot of people use this stuff for an effective gloss coat/sealer. It can be air brushed right out of the bottle. You can add a flat base to it to make it as dull as you want as well.
carefully applying super glue in between the gaps of the joints is a better solution, however improperly applied super glue is bad for plastic (esp when it dries, creates a think flakey layer that is almost impossible to scrape off)
option b:
i pour some into a small sauce dish and use a medicine dropper to apply into joint cracks. unlike super glue, if it spills on an unwanted region, just wipe it off.
allow 24+ hrs for either agent to dry and enjoy your nice tight joint!
> Can anyone direct me to a good gloss coat spray?
By spray, do you mean rattle can? Or can it be airbrushed? I've used Future Floor Wax, which is now sold in the states as Pledge with Future shine in most cases. It airbrushes well and can be polished. I've also used Testors Sealer for Metalizer (on regular paints) but I'm not finding it on their site and it might be discontinued.
This is great, thank you!
I found the new product here, and you said you brush it on? Do you just use a regular paintbrush to "brush it on"? And do you do any sanding with fine grit afterwards, or is that sufficient?
One last question. That other rocket I mentioned first....I had no idea about any of this, and I fear that the paint job is ruined. I Just straight sprayed paint onto the rocket after a little sanding. I didn't even know you could sand spray paint. Do you think it's possible to save the paint job?
Believe it or not the process is sanding with sandpaper.
Sand it with a medium grit, get progressively higher and higher in grit until the piece is super smooth, dust off the piece, rinse with water, and then brush some Future Floor/Pledge Floor Care product to get it shiny once more.
I believe its going by "Pledge Floor Gloss" now. Pledge 11182 Revive It Floor Gloss, 27 Ounce, Clear Transparent Liquid https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mdqtDbTEVY54R
Dab some of this all around the peg and inside the hole and let it dry. Use it to tighten loose joints on any other figures as well.
buy a bottle of this for $6.
it goes a loooooong way. i bought a bottle in 2017 and still have 1/2 a bottle. you can use it to tighten joints AND clear coat. i took a floppy Ricochet and smeared this all over his joints and now he's tight as a tiger. Works on pretty much any joint. Pin joints, ball joints, peg joints, all of it.
NEVER use super glue! nail polish does work, but i would only use that on ball joints.
Here's the Future stuff via Amazon
I used to hear about this stuff called pledge with future pledge I've never used it. But its been highly recommended
Pledge Floor Gloss Liquid, Sealed Wood Protector, Removes Dirt, Polish To Help Keep Floors Shiny, Original Scent, 27 fl oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_yTPXFbN74H813?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I use this...
[Pledge Floor Gloss]
(https://www.amazon.com/Pledge-11182-Revive-Transparent-Liquid/dp/B000ARPH4C)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_BKGLBb4NB363Q This is the latest branding of the original formula
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPH4C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the stuff to use. Tightens up my figures a dream.
I think this is the latest iteration; unless you're making crystal chessboards for everyone you know, a single bottle will last you years.
Try this for metallic. Keps the shine. Looks good BTW
https://www.amazon.com/Pledge-11182-Revive-Transparent-Liquid/dp/B000ARPH4C
You want neither of those. Below is what you want. They should sell it at Walmart as well
ok so now with 3 of these done and similar results all 3 times, i think it's safe to say this is a repeatable and consistent technique....i know these pics aren't capturing this properly, but this finish looks great, these are unpainted kits with just some panel lining and my topcoat pledge mixture.... it's not the most matte, but it's very nicely flat, and it hides the swirls in the plastic, and makes everything just pop, and feels nice to touch, seems durable, this is amazing imo, i really hope someone else tries, i know it's a lot to ask like probably $50 to start (but maybe this works with other cheaper topcoats too, idk, try it), but i think if you are a hand painter you need to try this...definitely the best like results per minutes spent out of any gunpla thing i've done so far.....i know i've come here with a lot of experimental finishes, but this one, for real, this is really something....
and here's all the explanation from the first post....
Ok so after the freakish success of my previous pledge dip experiment, I wanted to see what else we could do with the pledge so I kept trying random stuff….different application methods, thinning pledge with water, mixing pledge with paint pigments, pledge + topcoat, pledge + normal paint, applying lots of coats, leaving stuff in pledge for a while….but not of that really led to anything too interesting, except the discovery that you really cant put too much pledge after 1-2 coats…I have a few parts that have 10-15 coats of pledge and they look the same as something with 2 coats, also I left some parts in the pledge for a week and those came out pretty much the same….
So after the experiments I know that pledge: self levels really nice, dries quickly, cant be over applied, doesn’t gum up the joints too much, veery durable ….and these would be great qualities to have in a topcoat, especially for the hand painters like myself….so I continued experimenting with mixing pledge and topcoat, but I just couldn’t get it right, it would just dry splotchy or streaky or not be matte enough… (im using “coat” topcoat from culture hustle btw… )
But then I saw this new product from gunprimer (https://www.gunprimer.com/glazer) and that like seemed like pledge to me, like not so much like the pledge floor gloss that I’m using here, but like regular pledge in principal in that it’s a “dusting spray” that helps clean and protect your stuff…. But the strangest thing here is that they use a makeup brush…. So I tried applying various mixtures of pledge with a sprayer and makeup brush….The sprayer didn’t help except now I ruined a spray bottle with gunked up pledge…
But the makeup brush, that’s the secret sauce right there…..i messed around with the ratios a bit and now here we are with a very nice coating that is super easy and quick to apply…. It may not seem too great to the airbrush crowd, and I’m not sure if my camera skills can capture this properly, but this is very finish here, its nicely matte, but really makes the panel lining pop, and at some angles you can still get a bit of the shine from the pledge….the makeup brush just like holds and leaves the correct amount of paint and it’s super soft so there aren’t brushstrokes, and it’s big so you can go quick, and it does an excellent job of getting in all the nooks and cranies…
So here’s what I did here:
Got an old grimgerde out of the reserves, dusted it off a bit but did no other prep. The kit is unpainted and already panel lined from before.
Took the kit apart into main pieces: arm leg torso head etc…. (I put the right arm and leg aside and didn’t coat them now so we could see the difference)
Mix up the topcoat and pledge like 5-6 to 1
Now dip your makeup brush and just gently mop it all over the place….maybe use a swirly motion or some dabbing, just make sure everywhere looks to have a wet and slightly textured coating and there aren’t any spots of significant buildup….
Let it dry overnight…you really gotta wait, it goes through some weirdness along the way and it will seem like it’s not good, but trust the process and in the morning it will look great….
That’s it….so simple…the application for this whole kit took like 10 minutes….So another very nice finish from pledge, especially considering the no effort required…. Obviously there are a variety of ways that you can get a better topcoat, but this is an excellent solution for hand painters who aren’t taking things too seriously…..
Here’s a gallery with some still pictures: https://www.reddit.com/user/kurt667/comments/twviwl/pictures_for_grimgerde/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3
Here’s the previous post with the gloss dip application: https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/tpbs2y/pledge_experiment_2_this_might_be_explode_at_a/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3
here's a vid of me topcoating the dom in 3 minutes, quality isn't good, but i wanted to show the technique a little... https://www.reddit.com/user/kurt667/comments/txdj36/hguc_dom_3_minute_topcoat_application/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3
Products Used:
a makeup brush like this https://www.reddit.com/user/kurt667/comments/tx201p/makeup_brush/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3
Pledge Revive It
Coat from Cutlure Hustle
and i have a few more relevant posts, just check my profile...
ok so now with 3 of these done and similar results all 3 times, i think it's safe to say this is a repeatable and consistent technique....i know these pics aren't capturing this properly, but this finish looks great, these are unpainted kits with just some panel lining and my topcoat pledge mixture.... it's not the most matte, but it's very nicely flat, and it hides the swirls in the plastic, and makes everything just pop, and feels nice to touch, seems durable, this is amazing imo, i really hope someone else tries, i know it's a lot to ask like probably $50 to start (but maybe this works with other cheaper topcoats too, idk, try it), but i think if you are a hand painter you need to try this...definitely the best like results per minutes spent out of any gunpla thing i've done so far.....i know i've come here with a lot of experimental finishes, but this one, for real, this is really something....
and here's all the explanation from the first post....
Ok so after the freakish success of my previous pledge dip experiment, I wanted to see what else we could do with the pledge so I kept trying random stuff….different application methods, thinning pledge with water, mixing pledge with paint pigments, pledge + topcoat, pledge + normal paint, applying lots of coats, leaving stuff in pledge for a while….but not of that really led to anything too interesting, except the discovery that you really cant put too much pledge after 1-2 coats…I have a few parts that have 10-15 coats of pledge and they look the same as something with 2 coats, also I left some parts in the pledge for a week and those came out pretty much the same….
So after the experiments I know that pledge: self levels really nice, dries quickly, cant be over applied, doesn’t gum up the joints too much, veery durable ….and these would be great qualities to have in a topcoat, especially for the hand painters like myself….so I continued experimenting with mixing pledge and topcoat, but I just couldn’t get it right, it would just dry splotchy or streaky or not be matte enough… (im using “coat” topcoat from culture hustle btw… )
But then I saw this new product from gunprimer (https://www.gunprimer.com/glazer) and that like seemed like pledge to me, like not so much like the pledge floor gloss that I’m using here, but like regular pledge in principal in that it’s a “dusting spray” that helps clean and protect your stuff…. But the strangest thing here is that they use a makeup brush…. So I tried applying various mixtures of pledge with a sprayer and makeup brush….The sprayer didn’t help except now I ruined a spray bottle with gunked up pledge…
But the makeup brush, that’s the secret sauce right there…..i messed around with the ratios a bit and now here we are with a very nice coating that is super easy and quick to apply…. It may not seem too great to the airbrush crowd, and I’m not sure if my camera skills can capture this properly, but this is very finish here, its nicely matte, but really makes the panel lining pop, and at some angles you can still get a bit of the shine from the pledge….the makeup brush just like holds and leaves the correct amount of paint and it’s super soft so there aren’t brushstrokes, and it’s big so you can go quick, and it does an excellent job of getting in all the nooks and cranies…
So here’s what I did here:
1. Got an old grimgerde out of the reserves, dusted it off a bit but did no other prep. The kit is unpainted and already panel lined from before.
2. Took the kit apart into main pieces: arm leg torso head etc…. (I put the right arm and leg aside and didn’t coat them now so we could see the difference)
3. Mix up the topcoat and pledge like 5-6 to 1
4. Now dip your makeup brush and just gently mop it all over the place….maybe use a swirly motion or some dabbing, just make sure everywhere looks to have a wet and slightly textured coating and there aren’t any spots of significant buildup….
5. Let it dry overnight…you really gotta wait, it goes through some weirdness along the way and it will seem like it’s not good, but trust the process and in the morning it will look great….
6. That’s it….so simple…the application for this whole kit took like 10 minutes….So another very nice finish from pledge, especially considering the no effort required…. Obviously there are a variety of ways that you can get a better topcoat, but this is an excellent solution for hand painters who aren’t taking things too seriously…..
Here’s a gallery with some still pictures:
https://www.reddit.com/user/kurt667/comments/twviwl/pictures\_for\_grimgerde/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web2x&context=3
Here’s the previous post with the gloss dip application:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/tpbs2y/pledge\_experiment\_2\_this\_might\_be\_explode\_at\_a/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web2x&context=3
here's a vid of me topcoating the dom in 3 minutes, quality isn't good, but i wanted to show the technique a little...
https://www.reddit.com/user/kurt667/comments/txdj36/hguc\_dom\_3\_minute\_topcoat\_application/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web2x&context=3
Products Used:
a makeup brush like this
https://www.reddit.com/user/kurt667/comments/tx201p/makeup\_brush/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web2x&context=3
Pledge Revive It
https://www.amazon.com/Pledge-11182-Revive-Transparent-Liquid/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr\_1\_31?keywords=pledge+revive+it&qid=1649166571&sprefix=pledge+re%2Caps%2C81&sr=8-31
Coat from Cutlure Hustle https://www.culturehustleusa.com/collections/potions/products/coat-the-mattest-mattifying-protective-membrane-240ml
and i have a few more relevant posts, just check my profile...
ok so now with 3 of these done and similar results all 3 times, i think it's safe to say this is a repeatable and consistent technique....
here's a vid of me topcoating the dom in 3 minutes, quality isn't good, but i wanted to show the technique a little...
https://www.reddit.com/user/kurt667/comments/txdj36/hguc_dom_3_minute_topcoat_application/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3
and here's all the explanation from the first post, i did the same thing here, but i changed the ratio to 6:1 now...
Ok so after the freakish success of my previous pledge dip experiment, I wanted to see what else we could do with the pledge so I kept trying random stuff….different application methods, thinning pledge with water, mixing pledge with paint pigments, pledge + topcoat, pledge + normal paint, applying lots of coats, leaving stuff in pledge for a while….but not of that really led to anything too interesting, except the discovery that you really cant put too much pledge after 1-2 coats…I have a few parts that have 10-15 coats of pledge and they look the same as something with 2 coats, also I left some parts in the pledge for a week and those came out pretty much the same….
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So after the experiments I know that pledge: self levels really nice, dries quickly, cant be over applied, doesn’t gum up the joints too much, veery durable ….and these would be great qualities to have in a topcoat, especially for the hand painters like myself….so I continued experimenting with mixing pledge and topcoat, but I just couldn’t get it right, it would just dry splotchy or streaky or not be matte enough… (im using “coat” topcoat from culture hustle btw… )
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But then I saw this new product from gunprimer (https://www.gunprimer.com/glazer) and that like seemed like pledge to me, like not so much like the pledge floor gloss that I’m using here, but like regular pledge in principal in that it’s a “dusting spray” that helps clean and protect your stuff…. But the strangest thing here is that they use a makeup brush…. So I tried applying various mixtures of pledge with a sprayer and makeup brush….The sprayer didn’t help except now I ruined a spray bottle with gunked up pledge…
​
But the makeup brush, that’s the secret sauce right there…..i messed around with the ratios a bit and now here we are with a very nice coating that is super easy and quick to apply…. It may not seem too great to the airbrush crowd, and I’m not sure if my camera skills can capture this properly, but this is very finish here, its nicely matte, but really makes the panel lining pop, and at some angles you can still get a bit of the shine from the pledge….the makeup brush just like holds and leaves the correct amount of paint and it’s super soft so there aren’t brushstrokes, and it’s big so you can go quick, and it does an excellent job of getting in all the nooks and cranies…
So here’s what I did here:
Got an old grimgerde out of the reserves, dusted it off a bit but did no other prep. The kit is unpainted and already panel lined from before.
Took the kit apart into main pieces: arm leg torso head etc…. (I put the right arm and leg aside and didn’t coat them now so we could see the difference)
Mix up the topcoat and pledge like 5-6 to 1
Now dip your makeup brush and just gently mop it all over the place….maybe use a swirly motion or some dabbing, just make sure everywhere looks to have a wet and slightly textured coating and there aren’t any spots of significant buildup….
Let it dry overnight…you really gotta wait, it goes through some weirdness along the way and it will seem like it’s not good, but trust the process and in the morning it will look great….
That’s it….so simple…the application for this whole kit took like 10 minutes….So another very nice finish from pledge, especially considering the no effort required…. Obviously there are a variety of ways that you can get a better topcoat, but this is an excellent solution for hand painters who aren’t taking things too seriously…..
Here’s a gallery with some still pictures:
Here’s the previous post with the gloss dip application:
Products Used:
a makeup brush like this
Pledge Revive It
Coat from Cutlure Hustle https://www.culturehustleusa.com/collections/potions/products/coat-the-mattest-mattifying-protective-membrane-240ml
Ok so after the freakish success of my previous pledge dip experiment, I wanted to see what else we could do with the pledge so I kept trying random stuff….different application methods, thinning pledge with water, mixing pledge with paint pigments, pledge + topcoat, pledge + normal paint, applying lots of coats, leaving stuff in pledge for a while….but not of that really led to anything too interesting, except the discovery that you really cant put too much pledge after 1-2 coats…I have a few parts that have 10-15 coats of pledge and they look the same as something with 2 coats, also I left some parts in the pledge for a week and those came out pretty much the same….
So after the experiments I know that pledge: self levels really nice, dries quickly, cant be over applied, doesn’t gum up the joints too much, veery durable ….and these would be great qualities to have in a topcoat, especially for the hand painters like myself….so I continued experimenting with mixing pledge and topcoat, but I just couldn’t get it right, it would just dry splotchy or streaky or not be matte enough… (im using “coat” topcoat from culture hustle btw… )
But then I saw this new product from gunprimer (https://www.gunprimer.com/glazer) and that like seemed like pledge to me, like not so much like the pledge floor gloss that I’m using here, but like regular pledge in principal in that it’s a “dusting spray” that helps clean and protect your stuff…. But the strangest thing here is that they use a makeup brush…. So I tried applying various mixtures of pledge with a sprayer and makeup brush….
The sprayer didn’t help except now I ruined a spray bottle with gunked up pledge…
But the makeup brush, that’s the secret sauce right there…..i messed around with the ratios a bit and now here we are with a very nice coating that is super easy and quick to apply…. It may not seem too great to the airbrush crowd, and I’m not sure if my camera skills can capture this properly, but this is very finish here, its nicely matte, but really makes the panel lining pop, and at some angles you can still get a bit of the shine from the pledge….the makeup brush just like holds and leaves the correct amount of paint and it’s super soft so there aren’t brushstrokes, and it’s big so you can go quick, and it does an excellent job of getting in all the nooks and cranies…
So here’s what I did here:
Got an old grimgerde out of the reserves, dusted it off a bit but did no other prep. The kit is unpainted and already panel lined from before.
Took the kit apart into main pieces: arm leg torso head etc…. (I put the right arm and leg aside and didn’t coat them now so we could see the difference)
Mix up the topcoat and pledge 5:1
Now dip your makeup brush and just gently mop it all over the place….maybe use a swirly motion or some dabbing, just make sure everywhere looks to have a wet and slightly textured coating and there aren’t any spots of significant buildup….
Let it dry overnight…you really gotta wait, it goes through some weirdness along the way and it will seem like it’s not good, but in the morning it will look great….
That’s it….so simple…the application for this whole kit took like 10 minutes….
So another very nice finish from pledge, especially considering the no effort required…. Obviously there are a variety of ways that you can get a better topcoat, but this is an excellent solution for hand painters who aren’t taking things too seriously…..
Here’s a gallery with some still pictures:
Here’s the previous post with the gloss dip application:
Products Used:
Pledge Revive It
Coat from Cutlure Hustle
Absolutely. I put the pledge into a small bottle cap, dipped a toothpick into the pledge, and then used the toothpick to get the pledge in the joint that was loose. You want to move the loose limb around after to apply the pledge. In the case of the ball joint, I just dipped the ball joint right into the pledge.
Here are some youtube videos which better show what I did:
And here's the exact product I bought that is recommended:
Pledge Floor Gloss Liquid, Sealed Wood Protector, Removes Dirt, Polish To Help Keep Floors Shiny, Original Scent, 27 fl oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_ZBCXDJSPYMZC4A1M2H9R
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Pledge revive it
Pledge Floor Gloss Liquid, Sealed Wood Protector, Removes Dirt, Polish To Help Keep Floors Shiny, Original Scent, 27 fl oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NTBJ4BC6HRN0DHQX7VBP
It’s called “pledge revive it”
Pledge Floor Gloss Liquid, Sealed Wood Protector, Removes Dirt, Polish To Help Keep Floors Shiny, Original Scent, 27 fl oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NDBZRBCSMAQM92HYGN62
I'm pretty sure that is more likely to loosen joints.
What you want is this stuff or nail polish.
None but good ol' floor polish to save the day!
https://www.amazon.com/Pledge-11182-Revive-Transparent-Liquid/dp/B000ARPH4C!
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Tutorial to help you on your dandy way:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R28igxg_FCY
Believe it or not, I actually used this as a clear gloss varnish: https://www.amazon.com/Pledge-11182-Revive-Transparent-Liquid/dp/B000ARPH4C
Then I used blood angel contrast paint w/ contrast medium
| Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pledge 11182 Revive It Floor Gloss, 27 Ounce, Cle… | £13.86 | £13.86 | 4.5/5.0 |
^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger
Is this the one? Does it seal and protect the graphite powder?
pledge works great to gloss coat clear/transparent parts....
and you can apply it just by dipping your parts....
Joints and tabs can tightened by adding layers of floor polish, nail polish, or even super glue. Just coat whatever you want to tighten with layers of polish until it is to your liking. I use Pledge Floor Polish personally. Just drip it into the joint and work it around, or coat it using a q-tip.
Here is a tutorial video - https://youtu.be/R28igxg_FCY
Pledge "Original" Floor Polish. (Here)
Id recommend watching this video on how to use it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R28igxg_FCY
Hi, thank you. I took inspiration from this video: How to paint Tyranids - Carnifex - HD tutorial by Medows - YouTube
Just swapped the red & purple for agrax and sepia, using ushabti as the edge colour and final highlight.
The wings and gun were sprayed with army painter centaur skin. IMO a really close fleshtone representation. GW pinks are more daemonic. Its not a nice paint by brush and advise premixing before loading into the hopper. Highlighted with vallejo pale flesh.
The darker pink on wings is thinned blood for the blood god (came out pinker than expected).
The joints, mouth and gun 'raw' flesh is greenstuffworld coagulated blood (thinned a little), this stuff is awesome (2 coats).
On the tail you may notice some undershading using thinned bloodreaver or vallejo dark fleshtone. The skin is rakarth and pallid highlights. AK masking putty helped..mask!
For varnish, I used two coats of pledge neat (thanks to catgul's coconut crab vid), which leaves a really strong protective seal, ending with vallejo matt 50/50 mix with thinner as its quite thick. Probably need another coat as its still pretty glossy :)
Look forward to sharing when based, going for jungle theme using aquarium plants.
Cheers.
More than you ever wanted to know about Future polish:
http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
In the UK, you can get this on Amazon and it works:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pledge-Future-Surface-Protect-Restore/dp/B000ARPH4C
Also, I would use lighter fluid for Tamiya panel liner. It's a little less harsh than white spirits.
You can clean the floor polish with water without issue.
That same product has been renamed/rebranded several times over the years.
Good thing though, once you buy a bottle you won't need to buy another one for probably 20 years :)
And yes, Pledge Revive It floor gloss. I grabbed some at Walmart, but it's available all over.
https://www.amazon.com/Pledge-11182-Revive-Transparent-Liquid/dp/B000ARPH4C
Never that "type" of Pledge
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I have used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPH4C/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which apparently is the current labeling for the old "Future Floor Polish"
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I wouldn't say it is glossy...more of a semi-gloss+
I encountered an article about it online a bit ago, and have been doing experiments. If you do a search, look for "future floor wax", pledge bought them and used their formula. I've been using it for about a month for different projects.
I've used the glazes with Tamiya paints to do a power swords lightning effect and found it to be very effective, though I'm not the most skilled with power blades, someone better than I or more practiced could have done more I think.
Power sword done with pledge. https://i.imgur.com/WiPUAMS.jpg
Transfer done with pledge. https://i.imgur.com/fjoAInW.jpg
How I let them dry. https://i.imgur.com/5ZXS7ea.jpg
This is the kind you want, it's probably cheaper at Walmart. Pledge 11182 Revive It Floor Gloss, 27 Ounce, Clear Transparent Liquid https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aq2aCbHH4SBE9
Put it in little dropper bottles like the ones in my drying photo, because the bottle they sell you dispenses a lot, and you only need a drop.
My painting does not do justice to how cool this stuff is. Seriously try it.
This is what I'm using. The reviews make it seem like it is the right one
I can't find any information on this pledge on the swammymodels future guide. Is this the same as the 2015 formula of the multi surface finish? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPH4C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1AKT0EVAUPPAX&psc=1
Try this stuff, might be at Walmart
Make sure it's this stuff.
SC Johnson Pledge Floor Care Multi-Surface Finish 27 OZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zNDgAbMQ8BW87
Will this work? I also have some loose joints to fix
https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/
According to this site, it's now under the "pledge" brand: http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
Just curious, do you use this stuff? https://www.amazon.com/SC-Johnson-Pledge-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/
SC Johnson Pledge Floor Care Multi-Surface Finish 27 OZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SrHQxbGQNS1Y7
I did not thin it and i only waited an hour between coats. That was so i could get that thick hard shell appearance.
This right here is what I'm using. It doesn't say future on the bottle but it's the exact same formula, just reskinned. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPH4C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you're willing to pay a bit extra, they have it on Amazon
You can spray it straight out of the bottle, yes. I got it from amazon: Pledge with future
An alternative to that is to dip the glass pieces in This then dry them at an angle so that the excess runs off. I've done this on my older pieces and it makes them almost like new again. Only works on the glass pieces though. Here's more about it
I’m in the UK and it changed here too, but the replacement I can get on Amazon works well. Check the Swanny article to see if there’s a different name in your country - http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
Here’s what I’m using at the moment - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pledge-11182-Revive-Transparent-Liquid/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_20?dchild=1&keywords=Pledge+revive+clear&qid=1599979150&sr=8-20
Popular alternatives to Pledge Floor Gloss Liquid, ...
Official Roborock Multi-Surface Floor Cleaning Solution, Compatible with Ultra, All Roborock Robot Vacuums with Mopping and The Dyad Wet and Dry Vacuum, 16.2 oz, Concentrate, Dilution Ratio 1:300
Pledge FloorCare Multi Surface Finish - 27 oz - 2 pk
