{"product":{"product_id":"B01MUAMRN7","title":"POP VIEW Dog Bark Collar for Small, Medium, Large Dogs, Anti Bark Collar with Sound and Vibration, No Shock, Harmless \u0026 Humane","price":null,"image_url":"https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41Qbf6NwgdL._SL500_.jpg","url":"https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAMRN7"},"comments":[{"body":"This is a Wanhao Duplicator i3 rebadge. The Di3 is infamous for its flimsy Y axis carriage plate, which often warps and makes it impossible to properly level the bed. Luckily, the plate can easily be replaced. [Here's an Amazon listing that is popular around here and solves your issue.](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vArsAbXYE1BRD) Hope I could help!","subreddit_name":"3Dprinting","author":"NotPapaJohns"},{"body":"Yea, in the beginning I was in a constant battle to get the four corners leveled.  Although it still is a fight it isn't nearly has bad now that I bought the extra thick plate for under the bed.\r\n\r\nhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8\u0026amp;psc=1","subreddit_name":"3Dprinting","author":"jeebwise"},{"body":"Well then I strongly recommend you buy this, It's the same exact one I use on my I3 plus.\r\n\r\nhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8\u0026amp;psc=1\r\n\r\nI'm surprised no one mentioned this sooner, the stock carriage plate is notorious for being flimsy and impossible to level consistently. The lock nut thumbscrews and this plate should take care of your leveling problems, I know they did the trick for me.","subreddit_name":"3Dprinting","author":"davebensen22"},{"body":"I'v found buildtak to be pretty amazing in my prints, with just wiping with alcohol every once in a while. What are you printing with? I've had zero issues with PLA sticking with a 45c bed temp. \r\n\r\nAlso have the I3 plus, I never need to re-level my bed. I did do the spring cups early on and bought this plate off amazon which I would highly recommend, as the stock one is flexible and pretty flimzy:  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/. You might try both of those. Are you running a fan for your first layers?\r\n","subreddit_name":"3Dprinting","author":"NoMoreIdeas2"},{"body":"[An upgraded carriage plate is a must-have](https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Carriage-Duplicator-Monoprice/dp/B01MUAMRN7/). It will help you achieve and maintain better bed leveling.\r\n\r\nA 50mm blower fan with a printable shroud (e.g. the DiiiCooler) will make a big difference in print quality.\r\n\r\nBeyond that, most things are luxuries or need-specific. For example, I love my Microswiss all metal hot end but you may not have any need for it.","subreddit_name":"3Dprinting","author":"AddictedToComedy"},{"body":"If that's the same thing as a Maker Select, the Y carriage is very thin and bends easily. Take it off and lay it on a flat surface to check it out.\r\n\r\nI straightened mine once and things improved for a while. Last week, I ordered one of [these](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8\u0026amp;psc=1) which is much thicker and shouldn't bend.","subreddit_name":"FixMyPrint","author":"khaelian"},{"body":"Your bed carriage plate is probably warped. This is an issue with the thin, malleable stock plate, which makes leveling the  impossible as it bends each time a screw is adjusted. I got a composite-based upgrade plate off eBay, but I can't find the listing anymore, so [here's an aluminum plate on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_D8k7zbSYYA1QB) that's very popular around here and fixes the issue.","subreddit_name":"3Dprinting","author":"NotPapaJohns"},{"body":"Buy this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8\u0026amp;psc=1\r\n\r\nLaugh at the fact you ever didn't have it.\r\n\r\nProceed to belt the paper thin aluminum foil your printer's default Y Carriage is made out of.\r\n\r\nRoll around in perfectly flat first layers.","subreddit_name":"3Dprinting","author":"S4NDS4ND"},{"body":"I am guessing you have a plate similar to [this?](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8\u0026amp;psc=1)\r\n\r\nI was either going to rotate the bed 90 or rotate the carriage plate itself.  My only worry is about the \"braid\" of cables I have going to the control box (now I wish I had the plus lol).","subreddit_name":"3Dprinting","author":"RazgrizReborn"},{"body":"Ringing and banding is a really hard problem to fix. Ultimately, it comes down to making sure your printer is insanely rigid and its firmware settings are tuned in to fit YOUR printer.\r\n\r\nI see you already dropped acceleration and jerk settings, which will go a long way to helping with ringing and banding. Make 100% sure your belts are tensioned well. That's the #1 key to successful prints IMO, and I see you didn't mention it here.\r\n\r\nConsider upgrading your printer with a stronger Y carriage. Here's the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7\r\n\r\nAfter replacing the Y carriage, make add some auto-bed leveling to your printer so that you can rigidly secure your heated bed to the Y carriage. The springs that let you level your printer now add springy-ness to the print results from the sharp movements of the very heavy Y axis moving.\r\n\r\nThe default Cartesian design's biggest flaw is the moving heat bed IMO. Its very large and very heavy, which means precise movements at high speeds is always going to be very hard.\r\n\r\nAlso, can we see some pictures? You might be where I am at this point, limited by the factors of your printers design on a mechanical level as opposed to the quality of the build and parts.","subreddit_name":"3Dprinting","author":"S4NDS4ND"},{"body":"This may be the next thing I look into. For the sake of killing 2 birds with one stone, it looks like [this drop in undercarriage from Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Carriage-Duplicator-Monoprice/dp/B01MUAMRN7) has mounting holes that would accommodate a 3 point mounting set up (2 on the right, 1 on the left). You think it would be possible to dill a new mounting hole on the existing build plate?","subreddit_name":"3Dprinting","author":"Snail_Fleet"},{"body":"Not 100% sure, but seems like people need to drill new holes for the carriage you linked.\r\n\r\nhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_1?ie=UTF8\u0026amp;psc=1\u0026amp;smid=A2YI8XQU239Q2W\r\n\r\nI'm about to get this one though, since y'know, it has the words \"Monoprice Maker Select v2.1\" in the title :)","subreddit_name":"3Dprinting","author":"duckduckredemption"},{"body":"I was surprised when I found out that some came with 3.  Someone posted a picture with their heat bed off, and I asked why they only had 3 bearings.  The reply was, \"they all do.\"\r\n\r\nSomething to consider is the [RepRap Champing Y-carriage upgrade](https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Carriage-Duplicator-Monoprice/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8\u0026amp;qid=1488336163\u0026amp;sr=8-1\u0026amp;keywords=reprap+champion+wanhao).  It's a better platform if you decide to stay with 4 or go to 3.","subreddit_name":"3Dprinting","author":"WhatDoIKnow2"},{"body":"For the bed: I had the same problem leveling mine at first. I fixed it by replacing the carriage plate (the thin metal plate under the heated bed) with a stiffer one made of thick aluminum. I had mine custom made, but [this one](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_y.g2ybRSN1X43) is popular now.\r\n\r\nI installed the mosfet upgrade on mine just in case, but since the printer runs on 24v instead of 12v, it shouldn't have the connector issues. At least, it shouldn't be nearly as common. (But I have heard of it happening on the plus occasionally.)","subreddit_name":"3Dprinting","author":"spengineer"},{"body":"I assume {AHEM} you meant a 32 BIT system. One 'but' for each of us is enough, 32 'but's' would be too much, LOL. \u0026lt;JK\u0026gt; Might help those who are full of sh** tho'... :-}\r\n\r\nWhat 32 bit board are you talking about? I am running down the same path with my Mono MS, having done a whole bunch of upgrades, alignments, etc but still can't get a decent print because of the crap bed. Losing sleep and hair here.\r\n\r\nJust ordered a new Y carriage plate: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8\u0026amp;psc=1\r\n\r\nI've also put on a glass plate that's got a slight texture. Using a glue stick I'm getting lots of adhesion, but if the bed is off ... POP! goes the item!\r\n\r\nWas thinking RAMPS and RasPi with Octoprint, but it sounds like what you're describing has it on the controller or did I misread that?\r\nTHAT would be rockin'!\r\n\r\nWhat about power? I have a lot of PC ATX supplies around, would have no problem with running one of those. I also don't like the heated bed connector problem on the Melzi board. I HAVE the connectors to fix it but if I replace the controller ...\r\n\r\nPretty techie but totally new to the 3D / RasPi /Ardinio etc stuff.\r\nThanks so much!\r\nPuterPro\r\n\r\n\r\n","subreddit_name":"3Dprinting","author":"PuterPro"}]}