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Portta N3CVTHR HDMI Converter HDMI to YPbPr RGB Component Plus R/L Audio Converter V1.3 Support 1080P@60Hz 2 Channel LPCM HDMI Audio Extractor for HDTV PS3 PS4 HDVD Player Wii Xbox etc, black and blue https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00A8FIQXA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fqGeGb35P0CR4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Your best off to use a HDMI --> Component converter. They run about $30 - $40 on Amazon. Be sure to check out reviews and get a decent one. Such as this: https://www.amazon.com/Portta-Component-Converter-support-Channels/dp/B00A8FIQXA/ref=sr_1_3?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1515434403&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+to+component&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011%2Cp_72%3A2661618011
You may notice slight picture quality degradation but nothing extreme.
The input with the highest quality is going to be component, problem being converting HDMI to component. I know there are converters out there for various types of video signal conversions, but in my experience they are usually hit or miss and require experimentation. example of such an adapter
this is the one I use I’m not super sensitive to input lag so I’m not the person. To ask. But retrorgb.com has this one on their list of zero lag converters.
One thing I can say about it is if your using it for multiple consoles like me. I have the comp side going to a hdcrt and the hdmi input is coming from an hdmi switch. You need to add a switch to the power cable to make it easy to turn off and on when changing the input resolution sometimes it auto detects sometimes not seems like switching from 480p to 1080i gives it the most trouble.
these things don't display the correct color space for the PSP so they lose a ton of definition in the PSP's TV output that results in a ton of blacks. it actually makes certain games like deadhead Fred near unplayable because you can't see what you're doing. they should be fine for normal play though.
the only other device I have found that upscales PSP footage correctly with the correct color space is the Retro tink 5x which costs $300. there is a cheap component to HDMI converter box on Amazon that does display the correct colors, but the version I bought put some wavy lines over the footage. it's not the biggest deal but for someone like me that's capturing gameplay it doesn't work. for normal play it shouldn't affect anything, here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A8FIQXA/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_5YMSZ0EFPTE124460D3C
please note that doesn't zoom footage or anything like that. the Retro tink 5x does. you'll also need a pair of PSP video out component cables in order to use both of them.
Outing where I live but this unit is the one your talking about?
I recommend getting an HDMI to Component converter. The HDMI will have more lag. I use this one
Read into adjusting geometry in the service menu. You'll need an actual Sony remote, I think. Make sure to write down any values that you are changing so you can put them back if need be
Since you need to get into the service menu anyway, set HDPT to 0 and enjoy Switch on a nice CRT.
I don't think so. It's this one HDMI to Component Converter, PORTTA HDMI to YPbPr Adapter + R/L Audio Extractor, HDMI to 5 RCA RGB Video Converter, Support 1080P 60Hz for PS3 PS4 DVD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A8FIQXA/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_ECVPVQ9N348K2PW6730S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I think the pi would be the best option for browsing and media playing, since it's new, portable, readily available, can do 240p natively and you won't need to get an old Radeon Card to use CRTEmudriver.
You can get 240p Component out of the pi using this: https://www.amazon.com/Portta-Converter-Component-Support-Extractor/dp/B00A8FIQXA/ref=sr\_1\_14?crid=1I0WYNNHK2GY4&keywords=hdmi+to+component+converter&qid=1636505777&qsid=138-7440483-3136639&sprefix=HDMI+to+Component%2Caps%2C223&a...
People seem to use this one with good results.
I'm using GBI, the GB Player disc is nice to have, but adds copious amounts of lag and doesn't look good.
Difference between Retrotink 5X and e.g. OSSC is that it requires zero configuration and only Retrotink 5X has an optimized mode for 480p signals. Additionally it features really great filters, like the already mentioned LCD filter or the new PVM filter.
It can't be overstated how much difference in image quality there is between Retrotink 5X (and a to some extent a correctly configured OSSC) to all the other scaler options. They're a completely different league.
I already have this hdmi converter..would this be sufficient?
Do you know of any offline dvr options? How do you know so much about encryption/dvr stuff?
Carby HDMI dongle + HDMI to YPbPr would be a good solution for 480p component output. I've seen people recommend this one. If you want to hook up to a PC monitor, the same brand also makes a good HDMI to VGA converter (I have one of those).
Easy answer, you're going to need an active converter regardless.
Portta HDMI to Component active converter.
That should do exactly what you are looking for. If you want to look for cheaper solutions, just know that you want a powered/active adapter. Unpowered/passive adapters won't work as well.
Sure thing! It says HDMI to RGB, but it lies; it's YPbPr.
I use this one in my 240p setup with an older AMD card and CRT Emudriver. It's a transcoder, so it just takes the signal you give it and passes it on, no lag.
I use this one for downscaling high resolution sources to 480i, and the result is much smoother than outputting native 480i from the other box. It has about one frame of lag, basically imperceptible.
This is the one that I have, though there's also a scaler they sell that is nice to have alongside it.
Ok. Cool. I actually already own this one here.
If you want HDMI then go for a GCVideo adapter (Carby, Kaico and so on). If you need analogue component there are 3rd party cables, but you should avoid them. The GCHD MKII has an extra output that would allow you to use Wii component cables, but you can use any other GCVideo HDMI adapter along with an HDMI to component converter and you'll spend less overall.
A Carby plus an HDMI to component converter is as close as you'll get.
> If you can think of any quality of life improvements to add, please do drop them here! :)
Get rid of the mCable and get a RetroTINK 5X Pro instead. Use an HDMI to component adapter for your HDMI adapter or use OEM Component cables.
I thought I'd follow up to my post in hopes of helping out others. I finally got the GBS-C working as-intended with my PC and Switch. Here is what I used and how it is setup:
HDMI Source Device (Laptop/Switch in my case) > [This HDMI to component converter box](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A8FIQXA?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details) plugged into the YPbPr component inputs on the GBS-C. Other side of the GBS-C - VGA out port (using [this cable](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O8C6HM?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details) with the component ends plugged directly into my consumer Sony CRT TV. Inside the GBS-C software I enabled Component out over VGA and selected 15khz downscale, everything works perfectly including scaling and re-positioning of the image. The only thing to watch for is the GBS-C must be turned on AFTER the source input or it won't sync properly. I hope this helps someone out in the near future. :)
I think Extrems has recommended this one.
HDMI to Component Converter, PORTTA HDMI to YPbPr Adapter + R/L Audio Extractor
HDMI to Component Converter,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A8FIQXA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This one has a relatively good rating.
But keep in mind, for things like this, ad far as image quality goes, you get what you pay for, something like this will give you a perfectly serviceable image quality though, if you are willing to double your budget, then you can get this one, which will give you somewhat better IQ, there is also the GBS Control, something that requires a bit more set up time and thought, but will provide the best IQ overall, can be found for under 30 bucks too, can be flashed with open source firmware opening up tons of options, so it's down to how much money you want to spend or how plug & play you want it to be.
This looks like the correct one: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00A8FIQXA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_53981MTXZ192BKQGBGTC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I mentioned this in your other post, but you're better off converting HDMI to Component with an affordable zero-lag external device by Portta and disabling HDPT on this. Here's a good post where someone else explains how doing this can save you ~33ms latency.
The HDFury X3 is the best HDMI to Component converter I've found.
One of these.
Otherwise, for 1080p to 1080i scaling, the Extron DSC 301 is really good.
I've heard theories that you get a better result going hdmi then into a simple hdmi to YPbPr converter for the PS3. I'm not sure if anyone has ever given hard data on it though.
I haven't used them myself but I have spoken to other people who have. They are legit. They are based on GCVideo Lite like any other GameCube component/HDMI solution, says it right in the description.
Insurrection Industries was selling a Carby component cable for a short time, but stopped due to lack of demand, from what I've heard. So it is nice to see some more aftermarket solutions coming to market.
Also worth noting, you could also use a Carby HDMI dongle, paired with a cheap HDMI to Component converter like this one.
What's wrong with the $20 Portta converter then?
How do I get an HDMI signal to properly show up on my PVM-137? It seems to not be sync'd properly, or the resolution isn't right. I'm outputting 800x600@60Hz and using this adapter
Here's a video of what it looks like currently: https://imgur.com/a/nflN71t
How do I sync this CRT? I've never used a CRT which required syncing. Or is it just that I have the resolution wrong? I tried 960x720 which seemed to be the closest to the listed 1000TVL but it didn't work and I'm really out of my depth here.
If you want 1:1 (480i to 480i, 1080p to 1080p, etc.), I recommend Portta's converter.
If you can't output 480i (i.e., your video card is too new), then you need Portta's scaler instead. It has a 480i downscale mode that works wonderfully for streaming video, and I've used it for playing PS4 and Xbone games on SD CRTs.
That is a Carby.
Here is a Retrotink 5X https://www.retrotink.com/product-page/5x-pro
Here is a decent HDMI to component converter https://www.amazon.com/Portta-Converter-Component-Support-Extractor/dp/B00A8FIQXA/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=HDMI+to+component&qid=1626141120&sr=8-12
This isn't cheap but it's the best.
It's right here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A8FIQXA/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_F22YJQR5D0CWYJ674F47?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You should just need one of these.
This one seems to perform fine.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A8FIQXA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_3JNS1PGWGCZYN61KQJ99?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 HDMI to component adapter.
https://castlemaniagames.com/collections/hd-retrovision/products/hd-retrovision-genesis-6ft-5x-rca-male-to-male-cable Male to male component cables. Best in the industry.
The HD Retrovision cables are pre-order right now and ship August 31. But well worth the wait. I have ordered bargain cables from Amazon before and all have been crap. I even had some of the Monoprice brand male-to-male cables and they came with the blue line severed inside the so called shielding, right out of the box.
Basically this and a pi: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A8FIQXA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_QYC9MPZ9BNANPFX2NBFS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here's the amazon link so you can see what I mean with how awful the readout options are: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A8FIQXA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
The booklet packaged with the device gives the specifications though.
My Portta HDMI to Component converter(not scaler) won't recognize custom resolutions I create in CRU. I just got the portta one and it doesn't show custom resolutions that I create in CRU in NVidia control panel or in advanced settings>list all modes of display settings. this is the one I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A8FIQXA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
it won't recognize a 1080x1920i@60hz or a 864x1536i@72hz is it possible its locked to certain output resolutions? Whats weird is that even if it is it should still do 1080i thats one of the resolutions specifically mentioned on its amazon entry. idk what do you guys think its just a limited converter or its something else?
If your 1070 Ti doesn't put out interlaced resolutions and you really want 1080i, you can use this and convert 1920x1080 to 1080i instead.
Great! I am looking for HDMI -> RGB adapters and I just can't find any that don't mention 'component'. I am afraid those would be component only and to the best of my understanding component is a different standard than RGB. A lot of them also mention YPbPr - that is component, right, and not RGB?
The closest I found was this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Converter-Component-Support-Channel-Extractor/dp/B00A8FIQXA/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=hdmi%2Bto%2Brgb&qid=1608131297&sr=8-1-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzVjRLSEdYQko4MEUwJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjA1NDAzV1pOR1Q5TlJZTVRPJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA4NDgyODcyQVoyTFhLT1pIUFc4JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1
Do you think that would work or is that component only?
Thanks again for your replies, I really appreciate it!
Are you using CRT Emudriver? If so, is your Portta converter this one or the scaler?
I also have this converter for S-video mostly just to get actual 4:3 (none of my video cards can use true low resolutions, and Windows sucks and won't let me change the aspect ratio of 2560x240/480 to 4:3), but also because its 480i image is beautiful for PCSX2, Dolphin, and old movies.
HDMI to component ~~transcoder~~converter with CRT Emudriver. I use this one.
I love the way people say something cannot be done just because they don't know of a solution. There is nearly always a solution (to quote Oppenheimer - "If it does not break the laws of physics, it can be done (but at a price - my addition to quote).
There is a simple solution which I use (its not that cheap but exceptionally versatile):-
Easiest way (and cheaper than HDMI senders) I know to transmit HDMI to HDMI is to buy a slingbox 350 which casts HDMI to chromecast. The slingbox has HDMI input but that can be hit or miss due to digital rights issues.
Slingbox recommend you use component input to slingbox (not composite). You can buy a simple HDMI to component converter e.g.
You still get HD definition. Cool eh!
As I said above, Slingbox is not that cheap (in UK), but this solution is far cheaper than buying HDMI senders and far more versatile e.g. you can watch TV over internet etc.
So source HDMI ----> component converter ----> component in on Slingbox ----> cast to chromecast.
Of course - if you can live with SD quality - a simple scart video sender may be ok, at a fraction of the price e.g. <£30 and does not even need a chromecast.
You do need a tablet or smartphone to set up connection and control it etc, but if you are just setting initial connection and simply watching, you can even turn device off!
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Do I have to keep SlingPlayer running on my mobile device while using SlingPlayer for Chromecast?
After a connection is established with Chromecast, you can put SlingPlayer in the background by going to another app, or even turn your device off! But if you want to change channels or otherwise control your TV or DVR, you must reopen SlingPlayer by tapping the "play to" icon on the main screen.
------------------------------------------ end of slingbox website ---------------------------------------------------------------------
BTW: I am now hacked off as I have just looked at US prices for a 350 (<$100) ! We get ripped off in UK even allowing for higher VAT (aka Sales Tax in US)!