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Get an outlet tester. If this wasn't a problem before, I suspect somebody did a shitty job wiring up your place. If the wiring is faulty... umm... I'm not sure how to fix it but, technically, it should be your landlord's problem but things might not work that way in Indonesia.
I wouldn't plug in the PC until you've got that figured out unless you're OK with with frying your computer to get in a few more rounds of DOTA.
You might want to travel with a plug tester like this. Would make for an exciting day to find the hot and ground swapped because some idiot didn't know how to hook up a plug properly.
Curious why you're both pig tailing and using all the terminals on the outlets? Do one or the other, not both. Also, what kind of tester do you have? Just one that detects a current or an actual receptacle tester like this?
In order to properly figure this out, you need to find where the line comes in to the room. Start there, hook up the outlet, turn the power back on and trace it to find the next electrical box with power.
The only reason you're having this difficulty is because there is something not hooked up correctly. Forget how the previous outlets were hooked up (unless one was a switched outlet) and start again, replacing one at a time.
>a few sessions of an hour each
Everything you said is right except this, from what I found. looking into using mine in my vehicles I found that anything over 15 minutes, on some plastics surfaces, can lead them to break down. They could be wrong, but I've always stuck to 12-15min a day max and it works well on stuff like this.
Also you need to make sure you have a ground at your outlet. without a ground these don't work properly and the one I have specifies making sure there is an active ground. a cheap receptical tool can confirm.
Are you properly grounding the amp and is your house properly grounded?
You can get something like this on amazon for pretty cheap to test your outlets.
Just a guess, is it possible that the voltage at the wall receptacle is low or not grounded properly.
There are cheaper Receptacle Testers available, but the GE Receptacle Tester was the first result from an Amazon search.
Amazon - GE 50542 Receptacle Tester, 3-Wire Light Improper Wiring Indicator, Gray/Yellow
Detects probable improper wiring conditions in standard 110-125 VAC outlets
Provides 6 probable wiring conditions that are quick and easy to read for ultimate efficiency
Lights indicate if wiring is correct and indicator light chart is included
Tests standard 3-wire outlets
( Light indicates if wiring is incorrect
Get one of these and test your house wiring, just to be safe. You have no idea how many houses have improper wiring.
When I was a working computer tech, I got to the point that I routinely tested the outlets feeding the computers at every stop, and had the customers sign statements that they'd been advised to consult an electrician if their outlets were faulty.
The most common flaw was tying the neutral and the ground together, which is dangerous to people as well as machines.
Get an outlet tester: [link]
Theoretically, improper wiring in your house could lead to you feeling a shock, as pipes can be used for electrical grounding.
Otherwise, have you stopped taking any psychiatric medications suddenly? At one point I stopped taking Prozac and I would get "brain zaps" randomly throughout my body, but intense sensations, ie cold or hot, would set them off.
Can you give more detail on the context? Is the CPU brand new, never opened before before you put it in your MSI motherboard? Is this your first self build? The debug LED getting to CPU then crashing is the most important part here, clearly that is where the issue lies. Is it possible that you don't have everything plugged in that you should? If you posted pictures it would be easy to tell. Or maybe even one of the connectors is loose.
I'm not sure why your old build is relevant to the story but I suppose it could be the wiring in your house but I doubt it considering you said your old build would run normally most of the time, you could always check the wiring in your house using $5 outlet tester
If you really mean 120 cycle hum, (not the usual 60hz hum) then it is potentially a filter cap issue. The mains power is 60hz but after rectification it is 120hz. At that point the filter caps are supposed to smooth that 120hz ripple.
First step is still to eliminate the possibilities and take it to another site with different power/interference/etc. I would also get an AC outlet checker, like this one, and check the wiring. I've seen some messed up house wiring.
Lot's of potential interference in any modern home. Could be lights, computers, etc. If it's fluorescent lights, try keeping old incandescent bulbs in the music room, maybe.
As others have said, it's likely a grounding issue. If you are in the U.S. or Canada, get one of these:
It will tell you if your outlet is wired correctly. If it isn't, that is likely your problem. The solution would be to fix the outlet, which should be done for safety reasons, or temporarily move to another properly-wired outlet and see if the problem goes away.
your tv likey has an ungrounded chassis (2 prong plug) or a faulty 3 prong cord... or possibly a faulty ground (or possibly reversed L-N connections in the outlet.) you should also try to be be plugging all devices connected together into the same socket if possible.
it would be a good idea to get a socket tester like this...
and test all your outlets and have any that test faulty, repaired.
If your surge protector has a 'grounded' indicator that isn't lit, that likely means the outlet it's plugged into isn't grounded. So plugging the computer into the wall won't ground it either.
You can use something like this to test your outlets. You just plug it in to the outlet, look at how it lights up, and reference that to what it says on the label.
Alternatively, you can just take your surge protector and plug it into different outlets until you find one that's grounded, and use that one.
Once you've checked to see that the gas to the appliance is on...
Have you tried working the oven or broiler (if it has one)?
It sounds like it could be a gas valve issue with the stove/oven itself.
Further: You may want to consider testing the outlet that it's plugged in to with a receptacle tester. If the polarity is reversed on the outlet, the gas valve may not open, which is a safety feature. Sounds weird, but I've run in to that issue a handful of times.
Edit: Added further info.
Testing the outlet is easy, I think something like this would work?
Power Gear 3-Wire Receptacle Tester
That's perfectly safe to use.
As for risk to yourself, I'm not an electrician so I can't speak authoritatively to any additional risk from an ungrounded amp. I'm pretty sure there is some added risk though. Low, but still.
> If the other circuits have a ground, there's just a wire come loose somewhere, which would not be difficult to track down for an electrician.
Not necessarily. They could have replaced some of the outlets with grounds, and didn't have access to a ground in this outlet for some reason or another.
OP definitely needs to let management handle this. Best you can do is get an outlet tester and see if you have another grounded outlet accessible.
Remind maintenance that if the outlet is not grounded, it should be either a 2-prong outlet, or have GFCI protection in order to meet NEC.
In addition to the other two suggestions regarding ground loops, make sure your amps are plugged into two different wall sockets.
You may also want to get a cheap outlet tester just to test things out.
Make sure you have a 3-prong outlet. Start with one of these and make sure you don't have a floating ground and that it is wired correctly.
Make sure your mains entry point has a ground rod and that it is tied to the breaker box. Make sure your water pipe and mains ground are intertied.
I've had one of these for a long time and it really came in handy when we bought our new house. Between that and the multimeter, I've been able to get a lot of work done around the house.
* Edit - This response was just adding to what others have said. I realize it doesn't directly answer the question. heh
I don't know what happened, but about all you can do if you're seeing sparks, a monitor stops working immediately after, the card it was attached to start to under perform severely, I'd say there's a problem with the card to say the least. All you can do is replace the card and see if it resolves the issue, but I would also worry about the wiring in your house. Might want to get that checked.
Edit: Get yourself one of these: [link]
Asus has anti-surge protection enabled by default which is a good thing for when power surges really happen.
People may jump the gun and say your PSU is bad or faulty, which may be the case, but this may not be one of those cases. The anti-surge protection can also kick in when the outlet your PC is getting its power from, is not properly grounded.
Before you do anything else or spend money on another PSU you may not need, I would suggest 1 of 2 things.
1.) Move you PC to another wall outlet. It would be great if you could move it to an outlet that is known to have a properly wired ground. Let it run there for a bit and see if it gets tripped again.
2.) You can test the outlets of your house for proper wiring with a circuit tester. Something like this [link]
You should be able to find one at a local hardware store or know someone who has one. It may be worth spending $5 to make sure your house wiring isn't the problem before you spend the money on an unneeded new PSU.
Usually things that are not visible and can't be readily tested for are excluded from a home inspection. Now, that said, it does sound like your inspector didn't know everything he should have been doing:
The Electrical should have been checked, there is a cheap device that plugs into any outlet and tests the wiring. My inspector had one, and I had my own to double check his. [link] That won't tell you if it is up to code, but it will give you a basic check. Maybe he did this, got some bad readings, and thought it was good enough to tell you it was sloppy.
The inspector should have run all the taps in the house to check for pressure problems or rust. This also verifies that the hot water heater is properly functioning. He should have filled the tubs and sinks to check for signs of leaks and to observe the drains for signs of clogs. The tub might not have been caught, but the rusty water should have been.
He should have run the heat/air central unit, checked for function, and felt in front of all the registers to make sure they were connected. The unit running but no detectable airflow is a BIG red flag that should have been noted.
You might be able to sue him, but a lot of inspectors have a clause on their contract or invoice that limits their liability to only their fee except in cases of provable gross negligence. I'm not sure this reaches the bar for that in your area, you need to speak to a local attorney to find out.
Something like this [link] can show if the outlet is wired properly. "Open Ground" would indicate that the outlet is not properly grounded and will make the PC more sensitive to static shocks and surges.
My old apartment had a grounding issue and any time I plugged in a USB device, built up charge in the device would cause a surge and crash my PC.
In the mean time, try using an outlet in an entirely different part of the house.
It's possible. Go to a hardware store and buy one of these and check to see if the outlets are grounded. Just because the outlet is 3 prong doesn't necessarily mean the outlet is grounded. Also check to make sure nothing in your chain has the ground prong broken off, like a power strip or something before it gets to the wall.
Well that should rule that out unless they screwed up the wiring. If you want to be 100% sure you can always grab a outlet tester.
Otherwise it sounds like you just have some really really bad luck and I hope they'll get their heads together and fix it for you as they should have just sent you a new unit after the 2nd time.
I am not an electrician, nor am I experienced with home wiring.
You can buy a tester for your outlets. That said, it would probably be more prudent to get an electrician in. You're going to need to call one anyway.
Anyway, the 120V/240V/0V thing refers to the split-phase power delivery system common in North America. In this system you have two hot wires, instead of just one. One of those hot wires is the inverse voltage of the other (so if we say that ground is 0V, then when the first hot wire is at 120V, the other hot wire is at -120V). If you connect ground to hot, you get a certain voltage (120V). If you connect the first hot to the second hot, you get double that voltage (240V).
As to what is happening in your case, I've no idea. In a proper wiring setup, the ground wire (and thus all things connected to the ground wire, like the case of an appliance, your junction boxes, etc.) are directly attached to a big metal thing stuck deep in the earth.
Get one of these.........................[link]
^Item&nbsp;Info | Bot&nbsp;Info | Trigger
is your outlet grounded?
if you turn your breaker off and unplug everything on the breaker and have lights if any off if you use a multimeter there should be a near 0 Ohm read between ground and neutral (these 2 wire are shorted in the panel box)
with the breaker on if you measure voltage it should show 110-125v between the Live and ground/neutral
if that sound too complicated you can use a outlet tester
These things are cheap and will tell you whether your outlets are wired correctly.
that's an excellent question.
just buy one of these for $9 to check your home electricity and if ground is functioning properly:
So the short answer is hire an electrician to provide you with a grounded plug in your studio, but presumably the landlord/caretaker is not open to that.
The longer diy answer is to find a safe place to connect a ground wire to:
What I am about to suggest / talk about requires some thinking and confidence in understanding electricity. It will most certainly violate electrical code. You can kill yourself, burn your place down or worse - damage your sound gear if you make a mistake. So take this with a big grain of salt.
So I'm a little curious by what you mean with "externally mounted" and "not grounded".
Do the outlets have a ground pin that is not connected (verified with an outlet tester)?
If they do not have a ground pin, are they polarized - that is, is one slot slightly loner than the other?
You may be able to install an adapter that adds a ground pin. But you need to confirm that the box is grounded (you could just add the adapter and then confirm with the outlet tester).
Worse case, your outlets do not have a ground pin, and are not polarized - leaving you to guess.
In Canada (where I live), every outlet I've ever explored has a hot and a neutral. In every house I've lived in (it is possible apartment's may do something different), the neutral wire connects to a ground wire back in some breaker box. https://blog.1000bulbs.com/home/polarized-vs-non-polarized-electrical-plugs
Sometimes the wire installed has a metal jacket (either a spiral continuous coil of metal, or simply run inside a metal pipe). Quite often that metal jacket/pipe is connected to ground. (see adapter above) I had one outlet in an older house that had a 3 prong outlet, but the ground was not attached because there was no ground wire for the previous person to connect to the outlet. They should not have put that outlet in - false security. But I was able to verify the metal housing was grounded, and then ran a short bit of copper wire from the box to the ground lug on the outlet.
And finally, water pipes. Again, in Canada, a lot of houses use the incoming metal water line as the ground rod. If your house has copper water lines, it may be possible to connect your ground wire to a water line.
If the plugs are not polarized, then a challenge is confirming which is the hot wire and which is neutral. If you take a spare lamp cord style cord, one that you can easily split the two conductors / wires apart without exposing the copper inside, then you can use a "chicken stick" to test which wire and therefore which spade is hot. (https://www.amazon.ca/Neoteck-Non-Contact-12-1000V-Flashlight-Clip-Orange/dp/B01JYCVU2Q )
The hot wire will cause the tester to chirp/light up. The other wire will be your neutral. If you are confident which is hot and which is neutral, you can build a little extension code with a polarized, ungrounded 2 prong male, and 3 prong female. Wire the neutral and ground together. THIS IS DANGEROUS and if the male end is inserted incorrectly or if you wire it wrong, it will cause all the metal cases of all your electrical equipment to become live and could electrocute you if you touch them.
These are just some ideas to think about how to tackle the problem.
That doesn't actually mean there is a ground in there. Just means somebody installed a 3 prong outlet. You either need to look or get a tester. https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-Receptacle-Indications-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA
My house for example has 3 prong outlets but only the one the washer plugs into is actually grounded.
Go buy a cheap electrical tester at home depot
I would follow up with the inspector. They probably should have caught this during the inspection. In any case you should have it inspected by an electrician. In the short term, you can buy an outlet tester and plug it into each outlet. Something like this : https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-Receptacle-Indications-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA/
This will tell you if there are any wiring problems with the outlets
Get an electric socket tester for like $5 and see if your home is wired correctly: [link]
You can get one of these to test if your outlets are wired improperly, and one of these to check if your voltage is correct.
Depending on what the issue is, either a voltage regulator or UPS might help. Gotta troubleshoot before buying stuff that may or may not help though. Ultimately if the wiring in your apartment is bad the landlord will need to take care of it.
You can buy an outlet tester like this to check.
Get an outlet tester to confirm that the wiring of the outlets you are using is correct. If any of the outlets test improperly, notify your landlord in writing and by phone of the problem. Check your local laws to see how quickly your landlord must respond to this potentially life-threatening issue. Open ground is very common in old houses and is not considered life-threatening.
Check with a multimeter that the voltages from each AC outlet pin to the other are all as they should be: 0V from GND to Neutral, 110-120 or 220-240 from GND to Hot and Neutral to Hot. If this is good, you have sufficiently ruled out an issue with the apartment's wiring. All amplifiers will rectify and filter any noise on the AC line inputs to DC before using it, so any conducted noise should be filtered at the device. If you are using an outlet with an open ground, try lifting the AC ground as close to the affected equipment as possible. If your outlet ground is floating and you plug an amplifier with a ground pin into that outlet, the entire ground system on the device (including the ground wire leading to the outlet) becomes an antenna that will pick up noise.
You likely have unbalanced interconnects on the equipment you're struggling with: RCA on a 2-channel/surround system, or 1/4 inch phone jacks on a guitar/bass amp. In both cases, make sure you use high-quality coaxially shielded cables (RCA, 1/4-inch). If you use speaker cable instead of instrument cable between anything other than an amplifier and a speaker, you will be much more susceptible to picking up radiated noise on the input of your amplifier.
Edit: Get your amp into the noisy state and unplug the instrument cable from the input of the amp. Does the noise go away or change at all?
Me thinks one of these would be a good idea
[link] a receptacle tester.
I'm not an electrition, so this may not be a perfect explanation. but the ground pin gives your device a way to discharge static electricity or overvoltage by giving the electricity a way to "escape" from the system. Remember the First Law of Thermodynamics:
> Energy cannot be created or destoyed, only transfered.
So if you want to deal with a voltage spike, you can't just eliminate that electiricity. It has to be transfered, converted, or similar. In the case of modern homes, it is transfered into the earth via a third ground wire. Ordinarilly the path of least resistance will be your electronics, and power will flow through that instead of the ground wire. In an overloaded circuit that path of least resistance should be the ground. So it effectively works as a primitive form of voltage control.
From this site
>A surge protector used at a non-grounded receptacle is a glorified extension cord, and provides no additional protection, only a false sense of protection.
Something like this outlet tester will let you know if your house is wired up correctly or not. Just because an outlet has 3 pins doesn't mean that third pin is necessarily connected to anything.
>If an outlet isn't grounded, what can it do to your gear
Overcharge and destroy it. Possible fire risk.
For something that's off, it generally won't matter, so don't freak out if your vacuume or toaster only has a two-prong outlet. But for something you might use in a storm and that uses a substantial amount of electricity (i.e. a computer, air conditioner or heater), or that is particularly sensitive, that ground wire is important.
You'll find most modern TVs and light fixtures don't have a third prong. I am not 100% sure why but I assume it's because they have such a low power draw.
>and how would one go about addressing that?
The only real way is to hire an electrition, rewire your outlets yourself (be safe! Turn off your circuit breakers first!) or choose a different, grounded outlet. There's no quick fix or adapter to "ground" an outlet that I know of, at least not that are safe and to code.
The green screw is irrelevant unless the ground wire is connected. You have to figure out which is which.
An outlet tester will help; connect each wire
Always nice to have one of these around for a quick check.
There is no need to remove the covers, they use outlet testers. Like this one: [link]
When I purchased my home, the inspector I hired plugged a device like that in to literally every single outlet.
Edit: This is more like the one my inspector had. It has a GFI test button, where it causes a short to verify the GFI works without burning the house down.
An outlet tester is also a good, inexpensive helper.
I'm lazy, I just use a $6 plug-in outlet tester.
Power Gear 50542 3-Wire Receptacle Tester [link]
One of these might be helpful to you:
Power Gear 50542 3-Wire Receptacle Tester [link]
Off topic but maybe useful [link]
Grab one of these or similar and check that outlet: [link]
I have something like this one.
Receptacle tester or "test lamp". Should be about $5. Home despot. Amazon.
Huh, didn't even think of that. I'll remember to carry one of these if I ever get an EV.
I had a computer case that was to blame for this kind of issue. I replaced all the guts twice with spare parts I had lying around, moved it to different outlets, etc., tried other computers on the same outlet. Finally, I replaced the case, and everything was fine. I assume it was some kind of grounding issue. If I were to guess,
I'd suggest you probably have a grounding issue with your apartment wiring. You could test for this by getting one of these. The shocks probably aren't going to help your equipment. What do you have for flooring? Did you move to a drier climate than you lived before, or to a place where you have carpet instead of a non-carpeted floor?
An outlet tester jammed into the existing outlet might be a good idea. It can help diagnose WTF is going on inside that box. I know enough to diagnose that and get things straight, not sure if OP is in the same situation. I definitely recommend grabbing some white/black colored tape to mark the wire if OP is comfortable IDing the wiring. Dealt with cloth wire where I live, I feel the pain. 100% agree, pigtails to the outlets and wrap tape around the terminal screws to minimize risk of shorts. Tape is cheap.
> If you had someone come to your house to install a big-screen TV, would you expect them to check the outlets to make sure they were wired correctly?
If the installer was using an existing outlet, I would expect a 3 second check with one of these. The cost-benefit for those three seconds of work are enormous, even if it's not the installer's fault.