Well, that's what I thought at first, but someone else figured out that it was specifically the USB 3.2 causing issues and that seems to be correct from my testing as well. For reference, I am using this Atolla USB 3.0 powered hub.
Powered USB hub.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G8CMR18/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can have up to 127 devices plugged into a single usb port on your pc this way. You just keep chaining the hubs.
For slightly cheaper you can get an unpowered hub, but you're really not going to want to do that for more than like 4 connections. And especially not for ANYTHING that has LEDs or is complex like a joystick.
I ended up buying a USB hub that has an individual power button for each port. Then I just power down whichever peripherals I'm not using. Something similar to this.
Is that for all the ports or just one? I'm using a USB 3.0 5V/1.5A powered hub. It is plugged into my Anker USB-C 7-port hub to my laptop. It works perfectly fine for me.
How long is your USB run? What is your USB hub plugged into on your PC?
If you do get a USB hub, def go for the powered version. I have one similar to this and it works great for running a bunch of peripherals on my rig, including my Cube Controls steering wheel. My motherboard has 8 USB ports and I still ran out, I think I have upwards of 15 USB devices. This is the one I bought.
Ditto. 7 Port powered USB 3.0 hub with switches for each port. All my Sim gear runs through it save my wheelbase. (Which has it's own power switch on it's cable, so I don't need the Hub to easily turn it on and off.)
https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Charging-Individual-Switches-Extension/dp/B07G8CMR18/
get a powered USB bar you will thank me later
bought this one and never looked back. also you can plug your phone into this one and then you don't need to have the computer on!
It -might- be the amp capacity on the Mac's USB ports. The other drive may be using a lot of wattage from the USB port that it causes a voltage dropout, causing the Apricorn drive to fail.
The Apricorn drive itself has no way to tell if another drive is plugged in. It doesn't use drivers or any OS hooks. It does its encryption, and when you enter the PIN, presents a drive to the host.
One way to test this is to get a powered USB hub. It needs to be self powered. Then, from there, plug the Apricorn drive and the other drive into that, or keep the Apricorn drive plugged into the Mac, and plug the other drive into that. Since USB hubs reduce speed, what I do is have my main drive plugged into the Mac directly, and use this for my other stuff. Drives are definitely slower plugged into that, but it does well enough.
So something like this top search result
u/lebrilla and u/thenoweeknder - Agreed the adapter is not supplying enough power. Do either of you have a recommendation for one that would? I tried this one and it did not work. Thinking still now enough power.
I bought one a little more than a year ago, and hadn't read anything about it until after I purchased and was waiting for it in the mail, and it scared me reading all that. I would suggest buying a powered USB hub this is the one I use. I don't know if they still make the 2 different colors, but I got the grey one, and heard the other color was older and had more problems
I would say I'm more happy than upset with the stick. I noticed immediately the ghosting issues people were talking about and out of the box it was happening every few minutes and made it unflyable. Most if not all of my issues are with the throttle, and I honestly think it just has too many buttons/knobs and things going on to have one single USB plug to power it, and haven't too many things going on at once make it freak out.
However, with a little tinkering you can get it to work, with very minimal ghosting (it happens to me maybe once every 10 flights, and its not bad enough to ruin it).
Definitely turn the LEDs down or completely off, I personally like them, so I have it set to I think 10. I also make sure that any knobs that can turn have a small deadzone and try to leave them fully turned down (not left in the middle somewhere). I don't even use the top rotary knob on the throttle or the 2 on the base and have the axis turned off in the profiler.
​
I haven't looked at the market lately or even know much about other sticks/prices, but I was looking at VKB and WINWING and the only reason I didn't get one of those two was because shipping was months out vs a few days from Amazon.
​
Overall, if you don't mind doing a bit of tinkering, and the price is right, I think it would be a good starter stick.
powered usb hub with per port power buttons is a great way to manage usb devices that dont need to be on all the time but are used regularly enough to cause extra wear at connect points. picked up 2 of these 11/2019 and they have in constant use, plenty of power button on/off use no issues on both mac and pc...and a 4 port version on an ipad.. the dedicated power only port is always hot which is great for ipad charge cable to usb adapter or for charging anything else.
UPDATE: I just had a realization (pretty stupid tbh) that seem to simplify things: the PC-to-144hz-monitor connection is not going through the hub anyways - the monitor will be connected directly to my GPU no matter what lol.
In this case, I could a USB hub like this one, plug all of my peripherals into it, and then plug the hub into my dock. EZ.
This leaves a couple questions:
I just bought this and never looked back. Also since it's powered I can plug my USB light into it and have it running without my computer on
​
you plug it into the wall, that means powered. just search amazon for powered USB 3.0 hub and buy one. they are all the same and all made in china. Here's the one that I bought. All again are the same except for the amount of USB ports.
If this is the hub you are referring to then I can confirm the same as well. Never have had any issues with it and have been using it for close to a year now
The one I originally had stopped working, but I switched to this one that I still use for a different application and it is still going strong.
No. Make sure it's a powered USB hub though. If you get one that just plugs into your computer's USB slot it might not register more than 2 or 3 devices. I have one of these, you just hold down the power button next to the USB plug and it turns that one off
Wow, that's much :-) I would suggest pluggin in the headphone stand, the small screen, the 3 speakers and the led-strip on the USB-Hub, cause they're neither mission critical nor need fast charging
that's finey there are many usb-3.0 hubs out there, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Charging-Individual-Switches-Extension/dp/B07G8CMR18/ref=zg_bs_17387627011_6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DZQJT6TK4F6R4V3RGFPK
i strongly suggest buying one with an external power source, so you can be sure you have enough power
Based on what you've described, you could probably just get a powered USB 3 hub, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Charging-Individual-Switches-Extension/dp/B07G8CMR18/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=powered+usb+3.0+hub&qid=1617291478&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&smid=A2KVFO4XQ2RAFL&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyP...
Then get the appropriate adapter cable. You just need mains power to the hub to support the voltage draw from all of those devices.
Something like this?
Powered USB Hub 3.0, Atolla 7-Port USB Data Hub Splitter with One Smart Charging Port and Individual On/Off Switches and 5V/4A Power Adapter USB Extension for MacBook, Mac Pro/Mini and More. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07G8CMR18/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DJTHHC4WWQMEFXPRXF2D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You might try starting with an existing USB hub, and modding it to fit your needs.
I like this one:
This is what I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G8CMR18/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_R18WFbHFTCJRK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have one of these and an unpowered hub daisy chained. Going to replace the unpowered with another powered. Having a powered hub turned out to be a necessity for my hotas.
It can sure handle it, though. Between the two of them they've got plugged in an rgb keyboard, hard drive, wireless mouse, hotas, camera, fan, an amp, 2xMFCD, a phone for facial tracking, and a USB sound card.
Im actually thinking of getting a third soon.
This usb hub is one of my boyfriends favorite purchases. He bought it for himself. It keeps all the cords organized. He has every slot filled; one is for headphones and one is for his phone. The light up mat mentioned in another comment is plugged in there too. It's basically a power bar but for usb and its a good one.
https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Charging-Individual-Switches-Extension/dp/B07G8CMR18
Sure, these are called "USB hubs".
If the device you want to plug into the hub requires power (eg external hard drives) then you might consider getting a powered USB hub. This is a special sort of hub that also has a power cord that you plug into a power point. This will enable the hub to provide enough power to the USB devices that you have plugged in rather than trying to draw the power from your PC, which may struggle to provide enough power if you gave several USB devices plugged into the hub. This would be especially true if you want to use the hub for charging things (eg phones, fitness trackers, smart watches, etc). Example.
Oh, you can do that!? So, have the USB powered huh connected to controller port 2, in addition, instead of the AC adapter connected two hub? Can do both i mean? If so, that's fantastic idea!
Here's my USB powered hub. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G8CMR18/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yeah, there are two powered USB hubs in there. One on top of the desk and under it for all the peripherals.
My main recommendation on hubs is to make sure they are big and that they are powered. Things get funny when you plug a lot into an unpowered hub. I got a couple of these.
The only connections mine has are three 3 screens, 1 hub, and power.
I definitely recommend the junk yard drivers seat route. Our local scrap yard had BMW, Cadillac, and other really nice seats for only $25.
I have tried this one but was unable to get it to work with either of my CAC readers. I figured it was something with CAC readers needing to be directly connected for some reason. I even tried logging on with my cac reader, the unplugging (which would only lock the machine rather than log off) and using the usb hub with my cac plugged into that, but no luck.
​
There are a few of us on my team in a similiar situation. We seem to be stuck with the crappy machines and noone has figured out any solution yet so I was hoping that NAS would work. I've just never used one before and don't know if I can access it without Internet and without admin privileges so I don't want to spend that money without some kind of assurance, if that makes sense.
Bright lights. Powered USB Hub 3.0, Atolla 7-Port USB Data Hub Splitter with One Smart Charging Port and Individual On/Off Switches and 5V/4A Power Adapter USB Extension for MacBook, Mac Pro/Mini and More. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G8CMR18/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.3viFbX58JKGG
Yes yes yes. Use a powered usb hub. I ordered mine off Amazon. I started originally with a 4 port but after experiencing brownouts with trying to plug in 2 8bitdo usb controllers I upgraded to a 7 port hub and only have that plugged into the pi. No more brown outs or anything.
Powered USB Hub 3.0, Atolla... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G8CMR18?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Even though I purchased the anker one, this one was a close second because it has similar specs Powered USB Hub 3.0, Atolla 7-Port USB Data Hub Splitter with One Smart Charging Port and Individual On/Off Switches and 5V/4A Power Adapter USB Extension for MacBook, Mac Pro/Mini and More. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G8CMR18
I purchased the anker one because it had more reviews and it has reviews mentioning it works with VR
I have one similar, it has 7 ports and a brick plug
Just look at the power output spec for the hub. I've used two which could power several devices: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G8CMR18 and https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q3TYF15 . The latter has more ports and significantly more power per port, but something like that could probably do what you need. The former can get just over 500mA per port (the minimum official required by the usb spec) the latter can do 1A per port.
I have this one, which allows me to turn on or off things plugged in by USB if I want. I use it to hook my laptop up to MIDI, audio interface, etc.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G8CMR18/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_TWXaGbN71H70E
This is the one that known and it works fine. Make sure to get usb extensions of you need it, the cord isn't super long.
Take these 2:
One is powered and requires a power adaptor to be plugged into the hub to provide power. The other draws power off the usb outlet.
Here you go and sorry for the slow response ... Link to a single hub and the second link will be to a search results page.
https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Charging-Individual-Switches-Extension/dp/B07G8CMR18
Yes. I use a switched USB Hub for all my extra devices. I only turn them on when needed.
I ended up here with the same issue but then I realized my multi usb had a slot that said charing and when I plug in in there it charges the controller but can't be used while it is charging.
This is what I had https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G8CMR18/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
In the pictures you see "charging" marked for the slot on the side and when I connect the controller there it starts charging right away.
Ok. You might try using a powered USB hub. I use this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G8CMR18?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G8CMR18?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I've been using this one for a while and it works great. I have a full Logitech setup minus any FIP's and I've had no issues.
I also like that the power cord is detachable, it makes it much easier to set up/store my cockpit setup.
I used this powered USB 3.0 hub for my 2 HDD 2.5" drives and it works great.
Powered USB Hub 3.0, Atolla 7-Port USB Data Hub Splitter with One Smart Charging Port and Individual On/Off Switches and 5V/4A Power Adapter USB Extension for MacBook, Mac Pro/Mini and More. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G8CMR18/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_16JGJ2CVVWAXWY7F0H9M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
My setup: Raspberry Pi 4 8 GB overclocked 5TB Seagate Backup plus portable USB 3.0 external 4TB Seagate Backup plus portable USB 3.0 external Atolla Powered USB 3.0 Hub Dietpi OS - running Emby server, Adguard Home, letsencrypt (Certbot), Samba and others
Works great for a cheap NAS https://i.imgur.com/GbHaHuB.jpg
I am not using SSD or RAID, but the Atolla USB hub is a nice hub that works with the Pi 4.
That’s the camera connection kit from Apple. You need that but you’ll probably want multiple usb ports do something like this powered hub will complete the setup.
It might be the Hub. I use this one and have zero issues powering two drives from it and accessing them both. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G8CMR18/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
---|---|---|---|
Powered USB Hub 3.0, Atolla 7-Port USB Data Hub S… | $29.98 | $29.98 | 4.5/5.0 |
^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger
Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
---|---|---|---|
Powered USB Hub 3.0, Atolla 7-Port USB Data Hub S… | $29.98 | $29.98 | 4.5/5.0 |
Kasa Smart Plug Power Strip HS300, Surge Protecto… | $49.99 | $49.99 | 4.6/5.0 |
^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger
I've been trying to work on something like this myself for things like my tablet, kindle, fitbit, etc... I'm still not done but hopefully this can give OP and anyone else some ideas.
What I have so far is an 'Onyx Palette Organizer' from the makeup store Ulta (https://www.ulta.com/p/onyx-palette-organizer-pimprod2017117). It's the perfect size to slide tablets, kindles, larger phones and the like into. The only thing that I can't do is fit my old bulky tablet with a keyboard folio case in so that I'm still working on.
I also have a USB hub with individual on/off switches for all the items since I won't need them all on all the time. This is the one I have Atolla 7-Port USB Data Hub Splitter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G8CMR18/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) however I haven't hooked it up yet due issues getting to the outlet (giant PITA shelving in the way).
My plan is to see if things like my fit bit, power bank, etc... can just be placed in a decorative basket (with the cords fed through one of the handles - I have the Y-Weave Half Medium Decorative Storage Basket https://www.target.com/p/y-weave-half-medium-decorative-storage-basket-jade-dust---room-essentials--8482-/-/A-53605306) so the area doesn't look as cluttered.
Another thing I am considering is the Kasa Smart Plug Power Strip (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G95FFN3/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_dl_GNYFPNXC3JYK77HR2VS8) for some other others, however depending what your small things are it could be helpful to incorporate the charging into your smart home setup.
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OP, something that just clicked for me that may work for you. We used to have a monitor stand in our kitchen as part of a med center. On top were some decorative baskets/boxes to hold pill organizers, glucose test kits, etc... Then underneath we slid a wide but short basket (from the Y-Weave line that I linked above IIRC) underneath for additional supplies and we could pull it out like a drawer; with the added benefit that the whole thing could be removed for cleaning/restocking.
In your case OP, you could do something similar with having a USB hub underneath to plug your cables into and keep that mess hidden, and then on top lay out a wireless charging mat, a watch charger, etc...
I hope this helps.
>This is amazing. I work in finance with multiple monitors as well and I completely understand the struggle of balancing desk space with screens / equipment.
Thank you for the kind words and encouragement, /u/vay_rao.
The competition between space and equipment has been one of my main struggles.
Until I took a step back, and spent a few weeks scrolling through this subreddit, I didn't quite understand the gap between my needs and my setup (think back to the March 2020 photo and the transition to the April 2020 photo).
I ended up sitting down and writing what I really needed: and started to build around that.
First it was that second monitor, and then a third, to make four screens in total. I needed a way to look at multiple spreadsheets in one go, and review materials as part of presentations on Zoom and other video conferencing software. And then I knew I needed more space for documents and review, so I tried to maximize that area (it's part of the reason for the second desk to the side). The biggest shift for me was investing in cable management (cheap) and monitor arms (less cheap).
Now it's so much easier to do work in the home office. (So much room for activities!)
>Just wondering, how do you run 3 monitors + laptop screen from one laptop? Or are they running from a PC not pictured?
All from one laptop.
It's a Inspiron 7000 series (7567) purchased in late 2017. It has 32 GB of RAM, a NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050TI as my GPU and an Intel i7-7700HQ for my CPU.
I have three sets of these powered USB Hubs from Atolla that I have everything feeding through: such as the three screens (with HDMI to USB adapters), four extra hard drives, that Stream Deck, my mechanical keyboard, and inputs for the DSLR camera and repurposed Android phone (now a webcam / Twitch chat monitor).
Pretty much, I used a USB dock with USB-HDMI adapters to connect to my additional screens.
Some folks on this sub use a Thunderbolt dock or USB-C dock: both of which are better than my chosen (bodged-together) way of doing things. By using a more typical dock (a Thunderbolt or USB-C dock), a person can get better usage out of their monitors. There is a RAM/CPU hit by using USB-HDMI adapters (like I have) than a USB-C dock or Thunderbolt dock, which does consume more resources.
To be honest, I'm thinking of upgrading, maybe late 2022. That's probably (hopefully?) when the chip shortage and the price gouging will stop on computer parts. I know I'm due for an upgrade: using the same hardware since 2017 is starting to bog down some of the video editing and graphic work that I do. Also, I don't have any interfaces for USB-C or Thunderbolt cables, which made a quite a bit of my work somewhat awkward in future-proofing my setup over the last year or so.
>Thanks!
Happily, /u/vay_rao!
same, but if you search the code in the url you can find it
https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Charging-Individual-Switches-Extension/dp/B07G8CMR18
Yah, I've got two of these that all my flight sim gear is connected to: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G8CMR18/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_9M36DGAECP9DM3W7KE0P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Oh wow, that looks like a great build. Thanks for finding it.
Do you know if a USB hub would work for the ports? I have https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G8CMR18/ Or do I need a separate USB-C docking station as you mentioned?
I got one like this
My Pi4-NAS is booting from an 120GB SSD (so no mircoSD ) and I'm using this USB HUB: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G8CMR18/ ( With some other USB Hubs I had some issues before ... )
​
root@MyPi4NAS:~# df -h
Filesystem Size Used Avail Use% Mounted on
/dev/root 110G 1.5G 104G 2% /
devtmpfs 1.8G 0 1.8G 0% /dev
tmpfs 1.9G 0 1.9G 0% /dev/shm
tmpfs 1.9G 26M 1.9G 2% /run
tmpfs 5.0M 4.0K 5.0M 1% /run/lock
tmpfs 1.9G 0 1.9G 0% /sys/fs/cgroup
/dev/sda1 253M 48M 205M 19% /boot
/dev/sdc1 7.3T 4.5T 2.5T 65% /mnt/wd8tb
/dev/sdb1 4.6T 4.4T 191G 96% /mnt/INTENSO5TB2
/dev/sdh1 4.6T 4.4T 165G 97% /mnt/INTENSO5TB
/dev/sdf1 5.5T 5.0T 233G 96% /mnt/INTENSO6TB
/dev/sdg1 4.6T 3.7T 923G 81% /mnt/INTENSO5TB3
/dev/sdd1 4.6T 4.3T 346G 93% /mnt/INTENSO5TB4
/dev/sde1 3.7T 3.6T 90G 98% /mnt/INTENSO
tmpfs 383M 0 383M 0% /run/user/0
If you are on AMD try to disable PCIE Gen 4 and try to use PCIE Gen 3 instead.
Also if it doesn't work after a restart a powered USB 3.0 Hub should work. Something like this:
I use this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G8CMR18/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and I have all my gear plugged into it, CSL Elite wheel base, TH8A shifter, T-LCM pedals, handbrake, mouse/keyboard. I can switch them off individually if I need to.
Don't notice any lag when racing. I had to use an extension cable to plug into my PC from my rig, just make sure you use a minimum USB 3.0 cable as I originally had a USB 2.0 cable extension and got severe lag. That's only if you need an extension and make sure you plug into USB 3.0 or greater on you PC.
Ok wait I got it working perfectly now! So I have this usb-c hub that I plugged the adapter into and now it works perfectly! This is the hub I use
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G8CMR18/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cool. Do you think either of these would suffice? Maybe the less expensive one?
I just recommended this to someone else so I'm going to drop it here too. Great addition to any gaming set up.
https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Charging-Individual-Switches-Extension/dp/B07G8CMR18
My gamer bf likes practical gifts and this is his favorite addition to his "setup". It keeps the cords organized and everything easy to access. https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Charging-Individual-Switches-Extension/dp/B07G8CMR18
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G8CMR18/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I bought this one and its been perfect for my WD passport 4TB and 12TB elements drive I also have my G20 remote and mini keyboard connected to it no issues
also never use hubs that have no power adapter because the more usb devices you connect to a hub you will have issues cause of insufficient power
This is the exact one I'm using (I made sure to get one that had a port specifically for charging so they didn't skimp out on current).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G8CMR18/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
why would that work any better than this one that ive got? it seems like its about the same thing https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G8CMR18/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Simply buy a USB HUB with external power like this
https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Charging-Individual-Switches-Extension/dp/B07G8CMR18
It will fix everything