You can get an adapter for the stem. It'll be used to attach to your fork, then you just attach a threadless stem to it.
It looks like this.
Use this and bars/stem will be a much easier swap: Profile Designs Threadless Size Converter (1" - 1 1/8") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028N14GQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2VXN5E31K7VA1G3WQM1A I would strip it down and giver a thorough cleaning, and 10/10 recommended Gravelking SK+ tires from Panaracer, they make ‘em in 26x2.10 And are SWEET. As for the year I would take a guess that is a ‘92. My dad had one. Should be a fun build, enjoy!
Trying to convert an old 90s mountain bike to use threadless instead of the old quill stem it came with and I am extremely confused by the converters and steerer sizes.
My head tube has an interior diameter of 1 inch. So the steerer should have an outer diameter of 1 inch, an interior of 7/8 and a standard one of these 1-inch threadless converters should work?
I've googled it a bunch and am just walking in circles getting more confused as I get more details about how 7/8 and 8/8 somehow both equal 1
I just overhauled a Gary fisher hoo koo e koo and converted it to drop bars. I can confirm that this threaded to thread less stem adapter fit in mine, but other than that I went to different LBSs to replace bearings and get brake hangers. I had to do some filing to make some parts fit but all in all it wasn’t too bad. You got it! And it was honestly just a process of trying and i was nervous about parts not fitting but I got everything working.
Link didn’t make it into the post, but this is the adapter I’m using:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028N14GQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
The two small spacers closest to the stem are snug, but the others have a ton of play. I think I need those ones to have a smaller inner diameter, but I haven’t been able to find anything online. Any ideas?
Good question. You'll definitely be able to go to 26.0mm bars easy. 1" quill stems with 31.8 handlebar clamp exist (like the Velo Orange Quill Stem with Removable Faceplate, 31.8mm), but they aren't common.
Easier and more widely available cockpit options/combinations will open up to you if you use a threaded to threadless converter (something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028N14GQ/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_HtaVFbNQ6XGJH). You loose the aesthetics of a quill stem and some converters can look... odd(?), but then you can then use any modern 1 1/8th threadless stem/handlebar combo.
Your comment got spam filtered because it had an affiliate link. Reddit hides it from everybody except for you and the mods when that happens so it's kind of a gaslighting thing where your comment doesn't show up but there's no notification to you.
To avoid that in the future, just paste the main part of the URL without the stuff after ? Or ref=. Like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Profile-Design-Threadless-Size-Converter/dp/B0028N14GQ/
you can use a quill stem to threadless converter. here's one on Amazon:
Depends on the frame. My Trek took a 1 1/8 threaded fork which meant I could swap the fork/headset/stem for a threadless one. You're fork is probably 1" threaded so no go. There are a few work arounds like a threadless stem converter, but generally you're stuck based on your frame/fork.
Profile Design Threadless Size Converter (1" - 1 1/8") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028N14GQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KkkWDbCG21VE2
You can get one of these guys and then any 1-1/8" stem will fit. Or you can just leave your bike alone since the fit isn't hurting you.
Get a quill stem adaptor that lets you put a modem 1 1/8" stem and handlebars on the original forks?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028N14GQ/ref=dp_cerb_3
This is what I have planned for my 1996 Marin.
> Yea I’m thinking of budgeting $200 on it to start?
I've done nearly a dozen of these this year, and my advice: Less is more. They are pretty capable "out of the box," but a few minor tweaks will help a lot:
Cockpit: This is what you want to focus on. The newer style with wider bars and shorter stem is vastly more controllable and pleasurable to ride. Get a threadless adapter, a modern stem and wide handlebars, and you'll have 90% of the performance of a modern flat-bar gravel bike, and 1/10th of the cost.
You'll also want decent pedals, the original plastic body pedals on there are flexy trash. I have used the Fooker Pedals on three builds and really enjoy them so far, including on my nephew's BMX, which gets abused on the daily.
The old seatpost is also worth replacing. Any modern one or two-bolt post will be a vast improvement over the current one. If you pull the old one, the diameter should be stamped near the bottom; it's important that you get the exact size. If the post isn't stamped, or it is illegible, you can measure with calipers or a bike shop can do that for you.
The saddle is not great; I would keep my eyes open for a used replacement saddle. Cheap new ones are terrible, and good new ones are way expensive. I've found great deals on quality used saddles from when people upgrade. Even a stock "take-off" saddle from a newer high quality mountain bike will likely be a major upgrade over the current one.
Tires: Run what you have for now if they hold air and aren't completely hard and cracked (they look good in the pics, but obviously inspect in person). If they are bad, /u/your_pet_is_average is correct that Panaracer gravel kings are a great all-rounder for 26" tires. Once you put some miles on it and figure out the terrain you're riding, you'll have a much better idea of which tires you need.
Drive-train: Leave it alone! You've got thumb shifters on there, which, IMHO, are the best shifters on vintage mountain bikes. Better ergonomics than twist-grip and more durable than the trigger shifters. Your current gears are probably fine, too. So many of these bikes got ridden for 1-2 years and then put away once kids started driving, that very few actually have worn out drivetrains. A new chain and re-greasing the wheel bearings and bottom bracket bearings will keep you going for awhile. Maybe keep an eye out for a good deal on a better crank set. Your current one has the stamped steel & riveted chainrings, so a decent quality triple from the era would be a good upgrade for cheap!
A 1x system is the new hotness, but you really need a 10 or 11spd wide range cluster to get decent performance. For that you'll need new shifters, rear cluster, chain, derailleur and new cranks. Maybe even a new rear wheel depending on your current hub. Buying all that new will be $$$ and there isn't much available on the used market since it is such new tech.
Velo orange has one thats really expensive but there are $25-30 options on ebay and Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Profile-Design-Threadless-Size-Converter/dp/B0028N14GQ/ref=asc_df_B0028N14GQ/
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Or get an adapter to run a modern stem for much cheaper
Does it go over one of these?
You think I would be able to use this quill to 1 1/8 adapter?
Profile Designs Threadless Size Converter (1" - 1 1/8") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028N14GQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PKYVTY7YFFNRY8F7KQNE
Picked up this ~'90 Rockhopper a while back and really been enjoying it. I've really only worked on 'modern' (2000's+) mountain bikes though so I've got some dumb questions:
I put a basket on, and after a couple trips with it noticed some play in the headset. I've not messed with a threaded(?) headset but I grabbed a wrench and snugged things up; no more play. Next ride I realized the headset is squeaking faintly. I can't seem to find a middle ground between no play, and no squeak. Do I need to service/grease/replace something, or am I misunderstanding something? Do I just have too much weight on the old headset?
I'd like to grab some fenders but my cantis don't seem to have nearly as much clearance as some setups... is this something I can adjust or just the result of mismatched parts + fat Kendas? Or am I overthinking it, will something fit in there with appropriate clearance?
Eventually I want to change bars... teeny 90's bars is kinda terrifying and I'd like something with some backsweep and more rise. Pretty much means I need a new stem, so trying to figure that out. Will a 'threadless converter' do the job? And then just get some kind of cable hanger for the canti housing?
Thanks for any help!
Picked up this ~'90 Rockhopper a while back and really been enjoying it. I've really only worked on 'modern' (2000's+) mountain bikes though so I've got some dumb questions.
I put a basket on, and after a couple trips with it noticed some play in the headset. I've not messed with a threaded(?) headset but I grabbed a wrench and snugged things up; no more play. Next ride I realized the headset is squeaking faintly. I can't seem to find a middle ground between no play, and no squeak. Do I need to service/grease/replace something, or am I misunderstanding something? Do I just have too much weight on the old headset?
I'd like to grab some fenders but my cantis don't seem to have nearly as much clearance as some setups... is this something I can adjust or just the result of mismatched parts + fat Kendas? Or am I overthinking it, will something fit in there with appropriate clearance?
Eventually I want to change bars... teeny 90's bars is kinda terrifying and I'd like something with some backsweep and more rise. Pretty much means I need a new stem, so trying to figure that out. Will a 'threadless converter' do the job? And then just get some kind of cable hanger for the canti housing?
Thanks for any help!
I did. Bought one off amazon. Profile Design Threadless Size Converter (1" - 1 1/8") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028N14GQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_BHN3QWY9JE7S3206RP79?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I bought this for it https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0028N14GQ/
What is the difference between a threadless stem convertervs an adapter?
Profile Design Threadless Size Converter (1" - 1 1/8") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028N14GQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_Usc5Fb7JBGP6V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This seems like it might work and is not terribly expensive: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028N14GQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_TkMWFbB617GXE
You'll need a quill stem adapter and whichever 31.8 stem you prefer.
What about this one ? check this one
If you want to make some mods that will be reversible, you can get a quill stem converter (https://www.amazon.com/Profile-Design-Threadless-Size-Converter/dp/B0028N14GQ), a short mountain bike stem (50-60mm), wide mountain bars, take off the kickstand, and then add some better pedals. I did this to my '91 RockHopper and it made it fun to ride and I was able to convert it back to original. Also, ditch the rack and crate unless you really need it but it looks like it's pushing your seat way too far forward.
edit: disregard the bars, I forgot you've already found the ones you want and also those drop bars aren’t compatible with your brake levers
You probably need a stem adapter, not a shim. This will allow you to use any modern stem.
Profile Design Threadless Size Converter (1" - 1 1/8") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028N14GQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kdpDDb90D68MG