When you “flushed” the radiator, what was your process? Did you just drain the rad and the fill it with your new coolant? Or did you drain the rad, fill with water, drain, fill, drain and fill until absolutely clear water was all you drain out? Did you cycle the heater on and off while flushing?
The entire cooling system holds around 4-5 gallons, that includes the 2 gallons your radiator holds, gallon in the pipes to your heater core and the core itself, and another gallon or so in the motor.
If you left old green coolant in any of those places and added your fresh new asian red coolant, it’s going to mix and turn brown.
Are you in a region that will still experience freezing temps? If not, you can flush and run straight water for a little while, or run water and a bottle of Water Wetter it will give you improved cooling capacity over straight water and doesn’t cost as much as coolant.
I put Water Wetter in my Shadow's overflow tank.
https://smile.amazon.com/Red-Line-80204-Water-Wetter/dp/B000CPI5ZK
I'm pretty sure the same theory has been rolling around in high performance cars for a while
A properly functioning cooling system would keep things from boiling over during midsummer in Death Valley.
Hill climbs are, of course, more taxing on an engine, but the days of inadequate cooling went out the window with the emissions regulations, because NOx is strongly affected by combustion temperature. So manufacturers were forced to used larger radiators that could handle the edge cases. The takeaway is that anything with a catalytic converter on it* (~1976 and newer) should be able to handle any real driving situation you'd ever encounter.
The thermostat is simple and cheap, the radiator not quite as much, but a simple rod job shouldn't cost that much. If the radiator also has pinholes from age, that's when you start thinking about just replacing it, and bumping the number of cores. (Going from a 2-core to a 3-core, etc)
That being said, I am certain that an ambulance would already have an uprated system by the nature of what it is required to do.
If you want to put off dealing with overheating until after the winter, a simple coolant additive like water wetter will buy you better heat transfer between the engine/coolant/radiator/heater core. When I had my Westy, it was pretty much a mandatory-use item, but it will help any vehicle that has a borderline thermal issue.
Speaking of heater cores, car heat is provided by a simple coolant loop to a small radiator inside the passenger compartment. Cranking heat full blast (while not a lot of fun), adds quite a bit of extra cooling to the engine, and is a good way to buy a few more miles before needing to stop if you're on a long uphill.
Last bit, thanks for telling us about your build, and I agree, stealth is the way to go. The built-in appliances and fridge were nice, but I had noticeably more trouble parking in my obviously-a-camper-van than my friends who used more subtle forms of vehicle.
(*with the exception of the early wasserboxers than VW Westys used, whose cooling setup was a shitshow across the board. They were VW's first go at watercooling, and, well... VW had a lot to learn.)
http://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-80204-Water-Wetter/dp/B000CPI5ZK
Someone recommended I try it a few years ago and I've been using it ever since.