RED WOLF Car Front Door Dash Pro Tweeter Audio Speaker Wiring Harness for 2010-2019 Toyota Corolla, 2008-2019 Toyota Highlander, Subaru 2012-2020 Factory Speaker Replacement Adapter Connector 1 Pair https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07RMZ4CR6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_G05M93VYVV5RPJPKDG2J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Got it.
Correct my if I’m wrong: * Tweeter -> wire with the resistor -> red wolf harness -> the original connector that is connected to my stock tweeter
Buy this harness and watch the YouTube videos. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RMZ4CR6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_1A0J7J09MTCS5BN449B6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It takes some experimenting to squeeze all the wires in, but it is an easy DIY project.
Assuming it's wired the same as my 2013 Prius, the 4 wires at the tweeter are full range + and - from the head unit, and + and - to the woofer. The tweeter basically parallels the two pairs when plugged in, and has an inline cap as a bass blocker for the tweeter itself. Something like this is probably what you are looking for: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07RMZ4CR6/
Adapters needed are these guys here. Alternatively If you order speakers off Crutchfield.com they will give you the adapters needed for free. Keep in mind that the polarity is reversed for the RAV4 so technically the positive should be negative and vice versa. I would recommend bass blockers as dash speakers are not meant to play low frequencies and bass blockers act as crossovers to prevent that from happening.
RED WOLF Car Front Door Dash Pro Tweeter Audio Speaker Wiring Harness for 2010-2019 Toyota Corolla, 2008-2019 Toyota Highlander, Subaru 2012-2020 Factory Speaker Replacement Adapter Connector 1 Pair https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07RMZ4CR6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_0RR7YCWE6CCF6CWFDMAR
These worked for me. nice plug and play
RED WOLF Car Front Door Pro Tweeter Audio Speaker Wiring Harness for 2010-2019 Toyota Corolla, 2008-2013 Toyota Highlander Factory Speaker Replacement Adapter Connector 1 Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RMZ4CR6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2HkTDb29AXJEX
Hi, thank you for the tutorial. I would like change speaker but I can't find adapter in amazon Italy. They have specific technical name because in your amazon link I didn't found?
you don't have to splice the dash speakers, crutchfield doesn't have the right adapter but amazon does have one
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RMZ4CR6?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
i used this in my 2014 V for the dash speakers. most 3.5" aftermarket speakers will physically fit in the dash but none will bolt up so you do have to make some new holes in the plastic or just do what i did and put some double sided sticky tape on the tabs of the speakers to hold them in place and prevent rattles. they are basically trapped up in the dash anyhow though after you put the grille back in so they can't fall through the dash or anything anyhow.
Audiofrog GS25 or Morel CCWR254 will be the best options for direct replacement. The morel makes it simple by coming with their own passive crossover that you wire in line with the positive speaker wire to protect the speaker from low frequencies. The Audiofrog is the better sounding speaker though, so if you can source the crossover yourself, thats a good way to go. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_007BB600/Crutchfield-Bass-Blockers-600-Hz-cut-off.html?tp=3216
There are two pairs of speaker wires in the plug at the dash speaker. Use this (or similar) adapter to make it all work. https://www.amazon.com/RED-WOLF-2010-2019-Highlander-Replacement/dp/B07RMZ4CR6
For the dash speaker, most recommended is the jbl club 3.5". You'll need a harness such as this one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RMZ4CR6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Yeah and I used this redwolf dash speaker adapter to make the install as painless as possible for my front dash speakers
Oh another thing I did to mine was replace the 3.5in dash speakers.
used these and you can get any speakers that fit. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RMZ4CR6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
sounds a little better
I'm not normalling into body kits and big wings but this actually looks damn good!
As for speakers, I used this adapter for the dash speakers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RMZ4CR6
And used these speakers for the dash and the rear: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CPW4VFV
I will eventually replace the doors with these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084KWVD96
I'm have the Teyes CC3 and still use the rear OEM amp.
You also have to take the door panels off and use some duct tape to fix that damn rattly window switches. I also added some sound deadening in the doors, rear quarters, trunk well and trunk lid. I used some sort of weather seal crap that I got at lowes.
I used this adapter to connect to the dash speaker. I then tapped into the short red and black wire to run speaker wires to my amplifier for high-level input. I also replaced the dash speaker at the same time. This harness will only work if you decide to replace the dash speaker, which uses the spade terminals to connect. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RMZ4CR6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_V5BE6EWV3Z1Z61SRCN4N?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1[red wolf wire harness](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RMZ4CR6/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_9EY38PYSGHPYWY8PEQTB)
these the harness cords? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RMZ4CR6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_1A0J7J09MTCS5BN449B6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
which youtube vid did you watch?
Sorry, can you please do me a favour and see this Red Wolf harness that's being sold in Amazon Canada ?
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07RMZ4CR6/
Do I need to "fix" this for the R4P - Dash Tweeters ?
Alternatively I was going to get the Metra 72-8110 that is supposed to come "free" by ordering from Crutchfield.ca - which looks like to have the same kind of wiring ?!?
All you need is a 10 mm socket wrench to take out the screws holding in the speaker and a pry tool to remove the grill. I just used a small flathead to remove the grill and it did the job.
I also got this wire harness so the speaker is just plug and play essentially:
https://www.amazon.com/RED-WOLF-2010-2019-Highlander-Replacement/dp/B07RMZ4CR6
I wanted to add something to this post, for those coming late, I installed the speaker combos recommended by u/Shredenbacher, and found that the dash speakers were being over driven at certain frequencies. this seems to be caused by the fact that the dash speakers and the door speakers are wired in sequence. the factory tweets have a little capacitor that is filtering for only high frequencies and sending everything else to the door. the wiring adapter from amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RMZ4CR6) that lets you interface with the OEM harness will drive the door speakers without the tweets plugged in, so the signal is passing down (door speakers are silent if you remove this plug, this is how i figured out that the speakers were wired in series). the 3.5 kickers have no filter, so everything is going to them and then down to the doors...so when you get certain low mid-range bass the dash speakers pop and flap and sound horrible. also, the factory covers were designed to handle tweets only, so the added speaker air movement makes them rattle a bunch.
Since the 3.5 kickers are more than just a tweeter I used this filter (https://www.crutchfield.com/p_007BB600/Crutchfield-Bass-Blockers-600-Hz-cut-off.html). since the amazon wiring harness passes everything down to the door, I installed the filter between the wiring harness and the speakers, and everything already comes with the correct sized plugs installed. the filter sits between the harness and the speaker and only lets the right stuff to the 3.5 speakers. the difference is AMAZING. FWIW, I also tried the 5k filter and found that the dash speakers were too bright blasting only high frequency tweet. With the 600 filter its just right, lets a lot of mid-range to the dash (that the kickers can handle) and keeps the lower mid from over-driving the 3.5...everything else goes down to the door speaker.
to quiet down the rattles from the OEM dash speaker covers I added a few pieces of automotive felt tape to the under-side of the covers...around the edge where it makes contact...then snapped them back in place.
it took me a week or so to get the speakers sounding right, wanted to leave this note for anyone else that tries this and ends up on the struggle bus.