First, don't store it in the scabbard. You can use polish on it instead of constantly oiling it, I found this is a good product for this
this style of sword is from Germany 19th centcury and i generally see it described as a court saber. for the blue and gilt i suggest using ren wax to protect it and the rest of the blade this is a very nice example and the blue and gilt is very easy to loose.
That's a lovely piece, and an inventive way to decorate some pretty labradorite.
I use Renaissance Wax polish (Amazon) to finish all my oxidised work. It was was developed by The British Museum for protection of fine art and will not stain or discolour with aging. It is acid neutral, water and alcohol resistant. You may wish to re-apply this coating in time due to wear / usage.
Those are amazing OP! If you want to make them shine a bit but keep the aged patination you could apply a product like Renaissance Wax to protect the metal :)
I have absolutely no idea what I’m talking about or any experience whatsoever, but I’ve heard they use Renaissance Wax to restore or protect paintings in museums… may be worth looking into?
https://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-Wax-Polish-200-ml/dp/B0012S1XBO
i like ren wax because it last longer and reducing the number of times you need to reapply reduces friction. even the softest cloth rubbed on the blue a million times will wear it down.
You could use Renaissance wax. A wax that museums use for storing antique weapons. I’m not an expert whatsoever (!!) but I am just Putting it out there as something I’ve read was good for storing. I also read that Singers sewing Machine oil is good which is pretty much like mineral oil.
Renaissance Wax Polish , 200 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012S1XBO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I know sword, gun, and other antique collectors use Renaissance Wax to protect their metal items, especially for long term storage. It dries quickly, and provides a very hardy rustproof coating.
Renaissance Wax is one of my favorites. You could possibly get Rottenstone and a little mineral oil to rub it out but I don't know how you are expecting it to look as far as sheen. Poly isn't a finish I ever mess with too much once it's on. I will usually spray it and forget it because it doesn't usually respond well to reworking (as you can tell). The wax should even things out for you and if you need to refinish it some day you can clean it with Denatured Alcohol before you sand it.
Polish it, then wax it to protect it.
This is stuff is great and a little goes a long way, this should last you for several years:
Renaissance Wax Polish , 200 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012S1XBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_GE-3FbK2754EA
well swords knots arent original but everything else appears to be and in fairly good condition. looks like the blade was cleaned a bit too aggressively at some point, but most the etching remains, nice piece of history. i would suggest contacting your local insurance agents as homeowners insurance/renters requires the sword to be appraised to insure it for its antique value and will know someone local.
also just incase, oil that steel after touching it to prevent rust, mineral oil is a good option, stay away from food based oils and dont get non leather safe oil on the grip. mineral and choji are fine. ren wax is a good option over oil as it has to be applied less frequently and doesnt dry out.
https://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-Wax-Polish-200-ml/dp/B0012S1XBO
i use mineral oil which smells a bit better, but needs to be applied a bit more often then ren wax which last until the dust covering it gets bad enough to damage the coating(aka years)
i would redo the grip but im a bit of a obsessive collector
Try this.
“Renaissance Wax” is what the Smithsonian uses to preserve most types of hard artifacts. It's great for tools, knives, guns (storage not use) etc
That does suck, having your lacquer go out on you like that while thinking that you were taking good care of it by cleaning it. Raw brass can look good, BUT it makes your hands smell (from holding it and touching it), and it also leaves no protection for your instrument's bare metal. Therefore, I really wouldn't recommend raw brass long-term. If you insist on having raw brass though (some players like the way it sounds more, or just really like the way that it looks), then I would highly recommend using Renaissance Wax on the raw brass (to give it some protection against corrosion, and to keep it looking good.) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012S1XBO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This special formula paste wax will stay on pretty well, but will need to be re-applied from time-to-time when it wears off, or if you clean your trumpet very thoroughly (which would remove the wax.)
It is interesting to note here that, several decades ago (around the 1990s, I believe it was), there was a big trend or fad among professional trumpet players (and trombone and saxophone players too) to play instruments that had raw brass finishes. Entire symphony orchestra trumpet and brass sections in many major orchestras were playing raw brass instruments, and so were a lot of jazz players. These players believed that their instruments sounded better with the raw brass bells (sometimes they left the lacquer on the other parts of the instruments.)
But that major raw brass fad only lasted for about 10 years or so. I don't even remember hearing any of those musicians who played on raw brass horns talking about why they eventually switched away from those raw brass instruments, but my guess is that they got tired of polishing their instruments all the time, and the extra maintenance that those instruments required. And, they also probably figured out that the difference in the sound quality wasn't really that much different. I think that we, as trumpet players (and brass players or horn players) hear (or think that we hear) more of a difference than the people listening to us play are hearing. And I'm sure that most people listening to us hear absolutely no difference at all. (Other professional trumpet players and advanced college student trumpet players might be able to hear slight differences in the tone quality of the different finishes on instruments--sometimes, at least.)
Thankfully, the stuff on this blade was just on the surface and I was eventually able to rub it off with just my thumbs.
I think a layer of oil would have probably helped. I have also seen some folks reference using wax such as this (Renaissance wax polish):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012S1XBO/?coliid=I3TKJE5RM9E7ON&colid=X93STTHQ1BTU&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
I was wondering if someone would have suggested using something similar. I haven't ever used the stuff, but it might be worth picking up to try it out. I have also heard of people using beeswax with good results. I doubt it would be durable on a working blade, but during construction it might be useful.
https://www.amazon.ca/Picreator-PCRW2-BRK-Renaissance-Wax-Polish/dp/B0012S1XBO
Use this, it works and it’s amazing. The NRA museum sells this product.
0000 steel wool and museum waxRenaissance Wax Polish , 200 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012S1XBO/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_KT7334QANP6RGANSA8EZ
Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
---|---|---|---|
Renaissance Wax Polish , 200 ml | $25.00 | $25.00 | 4.8/5.0 |
^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger
RUST PREVENTION for long term storage.
Control humidity with heaters (better) or silica gel (in small spaces.)
Redry used silica gel in a 220 deg oven.
Rust prevention:
Vapor Corrosion Inhibitor paper:
ZERUST rust preventive capsules, tabs, or paper wrap one time use. Use in a small, closed container.
Clean and WAX for long term storage: Renaissance wax:
https://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-Wax-200ml/dp/B0012S1XBO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495662265&sr=8-1&keywords=renaissance+wax
Brownells Rust Preventative Spray: http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/oils-lubricants/rust-prevention/rust-preventive-no-2--prod1124.aspx
Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
---|---|---|---|
Renaissance Wax Polish , 200 ml | - | - | 4.8/5.0 |
^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger
Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
---|---|---|---|
Renaissance Wax Polish , 200 ml | - | - | 4.8/5.0 |
^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger
well in japan owning this is illegal and any found are seized and destroyed. your example was saved by being looted during ww2, otherwise it wouldnt exist. its not japanese tamahage its machined hardened spring steel like European sabers. and i hear good things about ren wax and it only being needed to be reapplied once a year but its quite a bit more expensive then oil options like a lifetime supply of mineral oil
oil all the steel parts regularly between once a month and once every 4 months or so depending on what type of oil you use, or use ren wax https://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-Wax-Polish-200-ml/dp/B0012S1XBO
Is https://www.amazon.com/Picreator-Renaissance-Wax-Polish-200/dp/B0012S1XBO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1532358320&sr=8-1&keywords=renaissance+paste+wax what you use? I've just been using WD40 on my bed but I'm not sold on it as the best solution.
I used it for couple years, but I still have 2/3 left. I'd say it's a life time supply.
Oh don't worry, that's the next step using this: http://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-Wax-200ml/dp/B0012S1XBO