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Repashy Calcium Plus LoD 3 Oz JAR?
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Okay, you'll/we'll get it figured out. It is a nasty wound, so definitely treat that. You want to use a multivitamin with D3 and then use calcium with NO D3.
For the multi, I use Repashy Calcium plus LOD. As well, with all of my chams, they all get their supps about 4-5 days a week, and then I feed them with no supps to give them a break.
Superworms have nasty bites too, so if for any reason he had one in his mouth and didn't eat it right away, those suckers hurt too. I've felt them bite me when I dig through their feeder tank, so there's that as well.
Compact is actually fine, I use them, the longer fixtures are better (left all of mine in Florida, had to get something for my animals), cool that you changed the UVB's out.
Pangea is for Geckos, not chameleons. Is that what you're giving him? Is he getting any multivitamin with D3? Lighting seems good, it's got to be the supplements. I use Repashy calcium with LoD, so with that being said, think we just figured out your issue. Let me know, I'm still checking to see what is in Pangea, but don't give it to your feeders either, they should be getting low acid fruits and veggies such as apples, sweet potatoes, carrots, leafy green lettuce, NO kale, cabbage, dark berries are also good for the feeders, cantaloupe...
Stop with the dog food, they get enough protein from the feeders (dubias/crickets), you want to gutload them with fresh fruits and veggies, all low acid, NO kale, cabbage, but sweet potato, apples, berries, green leaf lettuce and I even dust the feeders food too.
I use Repashy with Calcium and LOD.
How are her urates? And I don't know if we went over proper lighting, think we did??? She looks okay, but her coloring... Does she ever get nice and green? Could just be her mood, or she's cold in that pic, but just trying to make sure you're all straight. ;)
Dubias are best, guessing you're using crickets, they're kind of gross. They're also not plant eaters, so get yourself a multi, I use Repashy with Calcium and LOD. I give my chams a few days with breaks from it.
I don't know if you're on PC or phone, but "save" is the same as send, when you're done and want your msg to go through.
Can you take the picture of the supplements? I gave you links on what I use, and that's okay, doesn't have to be the same brand, but the stuff they sell in the pet store is generally crap (IMO), I'd would really see you step completely away from Petco right now, toss their care sheet (I'm sure they gave you one, it's not accurate).
They need the multi, and I like mine with all, even the calcium. So you say...
> bought calcium with D3, super worms
What about supplements
> I planned on getting plain turf for the bottom and removing the substrate
Nope, don't even do that, it's much easier to do a clear bottom. Some examples of set ups, this one and this one, your goal should be something similar to that.
You may have to give her water via a syringe, and likely she's not going to eat, putting food in front of her won't do it and it's because she's dehydrated, not feeling well.
Just don't use Reptivite, don't know what you got, but that stuff has phosphorus in it, it will give chams edema. I use Repashy calcium with LoD.
Hope she makes it to Monday, and I would be offering her water several times a day, do .5ml at a time. Trick is getting her mouth open which is where you're going to have to GENTLY pull down on her dewlap, keep her horizontal as you don't want to asphyxiate her when slowly pushing the water into her mouth. You could also get some Gatorade, NO Pedialyte, the Gatorade will give her some calories and I'm betting a little sugar is going to do her some good, any flavor, but again, not Pedialyte, that's more useful when an animal has diarrhea.
The one good thing is that her color looks good, she just needs some TLC big time, and the sooner the better, get her hydrated and if you have any questions, keep posting, we're here to help, this sub was made for that reason. ;)
Tank size: 40 gal. for an adult leopard gecko is perfect. I keep mine in Exo Terra Large Lows, which are 18" wide, 18" tall, and 36" long. Leos are ground-dwelling geckos, so floor space is more important than height.
Feeding: How often you feed them is mostly dependent on age. Babies should be fed daily, juveniles every other day, and adults 1-2 times a week. A good rule of thumb is to feed them as much as they can eat in 15 minutes and then to remove any uneaten feeders from the tank so they don't bother/bite the leo. Mealworms are okay feeders; crickets are better; dubia roaches are better than crickets.
Lighting: Lighting affects supplementation, so I'll talk about lighting first. I always recommend using a 5% UVB lamp and hood. Recent research indicates that leos do need UVB lighting, though it was previously thought that they didn't. Here's a detailed article on leopard gecko heating and lighting requirements. Leos usually don't fully bask under the UVB light like daytime species do, but they can absorb enough light just by sticking a bit of a leg or their tail out of their hide during the day.
Supplementation: If you use UVB, you'll need to provide less vitamin D3, since the UVB enables your leo to produce vitamin D naturally. Repashy sells a low-D calcium and vitamin supplement for reptiles with UVB and a high-D version for reptiles without. The Repashy Calcium Plus formulas also provide enough vitamin supplementation on their own, but if you use other formulas, you'll also need to dust with a multivitamin, once a week for babies and juveniles and once every other week for adults (I'm pulling this info straight from here, by the way :) ).
Calcium dishes in the tank aren't necessary and may even be harmful; too much calcium intake can interfere with your leo's ability to absorb other nutrients.
Substrate: There are two substrate categories, solid and loose. Loose substrates like sand and eco-earth should never be used for babies and juveniles because they can become impacted too easily. For healthy adults whose husbandry is all correct, you can use either loose or solid substrates. I stick with solid substrates—paper towels and slate tile—but I often see a mix of 70% organic topsoil/30% playsand recommended here as a safe loose substrate option.
Reptile carpet is best avoided for leopard geckos because their tiny claws can get stuck in the fibers and pulled out.
Favorite things: My leos love their secure hides. The safer they feel from my prying eyes, the better. Hides like this one and this one make them very happy. These also have the advantage of being easy to make into humid hides because you can pack your humid hide substrate on the bottom (I use damp paper towels).
Hope that helps you, and good luck with your new friend!
DON'T get the kit, just get the screened cage. The lighting that comes with is is wrong, you'll need an incandescent bulb for basking. Proper UVB lighting, 5.0 linear with a t8 light fixture.
Also, before I go on, read through the sidebar ------->
A lot of good info there.
NO SUBSTRATE!!! Your enclosure should be super simple, like this.
Do not buy mossy vines, that will rip their nails out, same with hammocks and such, get vines like these.
You'll need to get a multivitamin, I use Repashy - Calcium plus LOD, you'll want to dust your feeders with that, with a couple days off, they don't need supplements every day.
You want to gutload your feeders with fresh fruits/veggies; sweet potatoes, apples, carrots, low acid, no kale, cabbage, anything in that family.
I would also do a water glass, don't invest in a fogger/dripper/mister... those things can be pricey and not needed, and with that being said where do you live???
You're going to have more questions as you go along.
What species are you going for? We suggest a male Veiled for a begginer.
This is my cham, Buddy, first thing he does every morning is go for a drink, I could literally take a pic of him doing it every morning, but that is his routine. Put a clear, short glass, somewhere in there where your cham sees it. It's all I've used, all of my chams have used water glasses.
Cali is dry, so good on you for using the humidifier, I truly think this is what has saved you.
He should be getting a multi-vitamin with D3, we all need D3 and we get it from being out in the sun (**what are your temps during the day there? I'm thinking getting him outside and see if that helps, I'm thinking it will).
I like Repashy Calcium LoD. I have back up calcium which I also use Repashy's brand, but I use that VERY sparingly.
Is it this one? https://www.amazon.com/Repashy-Calcium-Plus-LoD-JAR/dp/B00DLJRMV2 sorry for bothering you
They also need cooler temps, and your cham is going to cook in that glass. Those red bulbs are for animals, like dragons, as remotelove mentioned. They need to cool down at night, so they need temps down in the 60's at night, and 80's during the day with the proper light source. t8 linear fixture and you'll need the 5.0 UVB bulb. For basking, you'll need a 60 watt incandescent bulb, white/frosted. All light need to go off at night, and it should be 12 on, 12 off.
Your husbandry/set up should look more like this. They are tree dweller and need airflow and as well need to be able to move up and down in their enclosure to self regulate their temps. You need to turn the lights off before you cook him and you need to get him in a screened enclosure.
You also need the proper supplements like Repashy calcium with LoD, and a calcium supplement WITHOUT D3.
I don't know where you got this animal from but whoever told you this set up was fine set you up for absolute failure and if you don't make the necessary changes, that animal is NOT going to survive.
First, I'm sorry for what you went through, but glad you got him out of there. You and your daughter take care of yourselves. <3
Was he using Reptivite? Either that or he was over supplementing, but they absolutely need D3, a good multi, like Repashy Calcium with LoD. Saw your post regarding supps, but leaving that link there for you.
The size is fine, you can use imgur.com to upload pix and it will give you a link like this...
https://imgur.com/gallery/hBTVcej
When you figure out imgur, reply to this post with pix, and I'll be around to help you out here. In the meantime, check out the side bar as well, I'm sure you'll find some good stuff to review.
Welcome to the sub. :)
Did you read through that write up? I know it's a lot of information in there.
> 4-7 month sub-adult / rapid growth stage: LIGHT Dusting supplementation should be increased to once every 3-4 days (alternating) This is when a young male panther will devour two dozen medium sized to large crickets and sit under the heat source digesting - growth will be noticeable and their adult colors will start to emerge. Don't be afraid to let them go without supplementation a week or so without supplement if the diet is well varied (different feeder types of insects) and there's been insect gutloading with fresh fruits and grains. REMEMBER: two dozen dusted crickets is a lot of calcium and vitamins for an animal that size.
And then for the females...
> Regarding Females These will require more according to their needs when they cycle for pre and post egg/ ovulation cycling. Calcium is stored in the bones and withdrawn for producing egg shells. this will leave her bones brittle and open to fracture. Supplementation should be increased to offset this before and after laying before returning to a lower maintenance dosage until the cycle repeats itself in 4 months time.
As a rule, I do 3-4 days on, 3-4 days off, for growing chams, they need the calcium more at this time because they are growing, and the females, you REALLY need to make sure that she's getting her calcium because as she's growing eggs, she's going to need that extra calcium, if she isn't getting enough, her body will pull from her bones resulting in MBD.
As adults, I pretty much keep the same supplementing schedule, 3-4 days on/off, however, my multivitamin that I use, Repashy calcium with LoD, and pretty much stick to JUST THAT for the males, but females will always require extra calcium because of egg laying, being gravid, so you'll want to give them a bit more at feedings. HTH's.
Lol, no worries, but what I was saying is that the Repti-cal is a decent product. I use Repashy calcium with LoD, and the Repti-cal WITHOUT D3 is fine. So basically, what you asked, it's all good.
I'm going to tell you that we mods use different things, but overall I don't think we've had issues in anything we've used, just stay away from Reptivite, and you're good. ;)
HTH's, but if you if you have further questions, NP, but read that link that I posted to you, it also has info regarding brands as well as schedules as far as doing supplements.
As a general rule, and for myself, I do 3-4 days on, then 3-4 days off, but I will switch that up for younger chams that are growing, and up the calcium for a female that I know is growing eggs and getting ready to lay.
Male Veiled chameleons are recommended as a first chameleon, they're more hearty and you don't have to worry about egg laying like you would with a female.
They are tree dwellers, so they need airflow, screened cages are required for them as well as proper basking bulb, 60 watt incandescent, white/frosted, and a 5.0 linear UVB bulb with a t8 fixture.
Here is a good example of a good set up and this one as well, those three panthers are separated by borders, they can't see each other.
You're going to need supplements. Repashy calcium with LoD and a calcium, Reptical for dusting their feeders, crickets and/or dubia roaches should be their main diet, and they need to be gutloaded with fresh fruits and veggies NO ACIDIC ones though. Worms can be given as a treat.
You'll also need live plants, pothos, umbrellas and hibiscus are popular and easy to keep in the cages.
These vines are great to add, do NOT use anything with moss on it, no wicker either, those things can rip their nails out and they do not grow back.
You'll need to consider a water source and need to have a certain level of humidity for them.
For now I think that's some good info to get you started.
OH!! And where to buy. If looking online, DO NOT buy from CBreptile, backwater or underground, they are horrible, they sell sick animals, they are overpriced and if you do and have an issue, they WILL NOT refund your money, you'll be stuck with what you get.
FLchams sells veileds, kammerflage kreations, markschameleons, NE chameleons, highlighter, all of those are reputable breeders that guarantee healthy animals and they ship next day.
Hope all that helps and welcome to the sub. :)
Like /u/lrnths mentioned, I doubt it's the dry air, you're using a fogger AND misting, which I don't know how often you're doing that, but the moisture is overkill right now.
Yes, he's got an RI, there is no "hoping" that he doesn't, he does, and I'm not trying to be a jerk, but I'm telling you that he definitely has one.
Get rid of the Reptivite, that has phosphorus in it, THAT absolutely will give your cham glandular edema. Get Repashy Calcium plus LoD. I always do 3-4 days on supps, using the Repashy that I mentioned, and 3-4 days off. I've never had an issue with supplements or hydration.
Give him a break from the supplements for now, absolutely no more Reptivite and not kidding, either return it or throw it out. Did you get him from a pet store? Please just know I'm trying to help you here. ;)
When you do call your vet (hoping you have an exotic one, and to note, I DO NOT like any vets regarding chameleon care even if they claim that they treat them, I've had a couple do me dirty along the way in my learning), let them know that he has an RI and that you need antibiotics for him and that you need to get him in ASAP.
He looks good otherwise, but you need to get a grip on the RI, get him out in the sun if you can, get to the vet, and while we're talking about that, you can always run what information you got from the vet before treating him as for dosing and such, and for that, DM/PM any of us MOD's so medical information is private.
All the best, if you get on this now, he'll be fine. I've dealt with RI's myself, they can totally bounce back from them if you do what I'm sharing with you. Keep us updated. :)
Veileds don't need the humidity like you've read that they do, that's mostly babies/clutches. If you're going to do misting, it should be a night when lights off, and AM when lights go on. I use a water glass for all of my chams, THEY DO DRINK FROM WATER GLASSES! :D
I use Repashy with calcium and LoD, I also have some of their Calcium without D3.
Here is a write up on supplementing. I supplement 4 days, then 3 days off. I have a female, so she gets extra calcium once in a while.
Your cham would be fine to be left alone during the day, just make sure that he/she is fed in the morning, the first year you will be letting them eat as much as they want, after a year you'll notice that they won't want to eat as much anymore.
If you can get Dubia roaches, I encourage you to do that, feeders need to be fed healthy food like LOW ACID fruits and veggies; carrots, apples, dark berries, sweet potatoes, green leaf lettuce, NO KALE, CABBAGE.
I'm sure you're going to have more questions, I was busy yesterday running errands so sorry for the delayed response, but again, can help with lighting, for basking, you're going to want an incandescent bulb, 60 watt, white/frosted, NOT CLEAR and no LED, and you want to use a 5.0 UVB bulb.
OP suspects impaction because of a cricket, that's a "no". Definitely substrate can cause an impaction, but everyone here has just been guessing. Guessing doesn't help.
Your cham is under nourished, he should be eating as much as he wants right now, 2 crickets a day? He's starving, trust me. If anything, the fat from the worms have saved him there, but those are treats, not a regular food source, Dubia roaches and crickets are the best for main feeders and YOUR feeders should be gut loaded with low acid fruits and veggies, I even add my multivitamin, to the feeders food to make them more nutritious. I have additional calcium, NO D3, to add sparingly as my multi has it as well.
Chameleons at this age (4ish months old), and upwards, they should be eating 10-15+ max, daily.
Veileds should NEVER go in glass tanks, and 20 gallons? That's for other animals, chameleons belong in an enclosure like this, if you end up getting the proper enclosure, you don't need the kit, it has stuff in there that you DO NOT need.
The lighting could be better (NO Blue day bulb, you need to be using a 60 watt, incandescent bulb, white/frosted, NOT CLEAR.
What is going on with the showers, and why?????
Repashy Calcium plus LoD, and is also a multivitamin. I also suggest calcium without D3, here is another Repashy, without D3, and I have to ask, where did you get her from?
Also, they do start to lay eggs at about 4-6 months depending on their diet, she's not even looking close and that's because of the lack of nutrients.
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