I use the one for reptiles and amphibians, it’s mostly for turtles, but it works great! It’s called reptisafe
You need a shallow dish for your frogs to be able to sit in, they drink through their skin so they need a water dish. They also need about 70%-80% humidity, so you can most the enclosure with a spray bottle. Another thing no one else has mentioned is getting a water dechlorinator, which is cheap, and lasts a long time. here’s the link to one on Amazon but you should be able to find it at a pet store. If you can’t get that right away, I think that’s okay because there are way more pressing matters you need to attend to first
I have a pair of toads that require essentially the same care as these guys. Here's some guidance:
He'll need a tank or container that he can't escape from or climb. It should, preferably be made of clear glass, so he can see out of it, but if you have to go with something like a plastic tub for now then that's fine. This guy will eventually do best in a 15-25 gallon tank. There's quite a few options that you can find at your local pet stores, but these are some really good ones. Tank 1, Tank 2, Tank 3. A normal aquarium with a screened lid is also fine if you want something cheaper.
You'll want to put in a drainage layer in the base of the tank that allows excess moisture and urine to drain down into it and be inaccessible for your toad to dig into or soak in, which could make him sick. Rinsed aquarium gravel is pretty hand for this. You can pick up a sack or two of Top Fin Gravel or something similar. Cover the base of the tank with .5 to 1 inch of these rocks. If you want to add any live plants, you'll want the roots to touch this drainage layer.
For soil, you'll want to use something that mimics his natural habitat, but is safe for him, easy to digest if he accidentally eats some, and is easy to burrow down into when he wants to hide. The two most commonly suggested sediments are Thrive Compressed and Eco Earth Loose Fiber. The loose fiber is useable right away, while the compressed fiber has to be saturated with water to expand it out and make it useable. It's as easy as putting it in a waterproof container and just adding enough water to cover it, break it up, add a little more water, and make sure that all of the dry stuff is wet. Add 4-5 inches of this stuff and do some fun landscaping. Make some hills and ditches if you want.
Water dish. Anything shallow enough for him to soak in but still easily escape is fine. It can be anything from a fancy one from a pet store to a shallow plastic bowl or piece of tupperware. If he can't get out of it, consider adding a handful of those aquarium rocks in here so he can use them to climb in and out of the tub. You will want to fill this with spring water (not distilled) or treated tap water. Tap water almost always contains chlorine, which is dangerous to toads, and sometimes fluoride, which is also dangerous to toads, and traces of other metals and minerals that aren't generally great for a toad. Distilled water lacks minerals and can issues for toads. At a minimum, get yourself a bottle of Reptisafe Conditioner and put a few drops into his water dish whenever you change the water. You'll want to refresh his water anytime that you see him go to the bathroom in it, gets too low for him to soak well, or every other day just to be safe. Rinse it out and give it a scrub with some soapy water if it ever gets a slimy feel to it, but hand dry it before you refill it to help get any soap residue off of it.
You'll want to get him a hide. This can be anything from something like this half log to even just a ceramic planter turned on its side and partially buried. Plastic plants, like these ones can also be planted in the tank to give him some leaves to hide under. You can also take leaves off of outside trees (make sure no one sprays them) and then hand wash them like you would for vegetables or fruit (this gets any gunk off of them) and then toss them into the tank. Essentially, add stuff that helps make the tank seem a bit more natural for him.
A sometimes controversial thing to add to a tank is moss. Moss helps the tank hold moisture, soaks up excess water from the dirt, provides a soft, different texture for the toad to sit on, and can make the tank look a lot more nice, BUT some types of moss can be dangerous if accidentally eaten by a toad. I prefer and suggest moss that's more pillowy or carpety than long, loose strands. I like Zoo Med Frog Moss the best.
Mealworms, crickets, and wax worms are all great foods for a toad to eat, but you'll want to focus his diet mostly on crickets with only the occasional mealworm or waxworm as a treat. (He should be fed each day at the moment, but after 6-10 months then he'll likely only want to eat every 2-4 days). Mealworms are considered to be a junk food as far as quality goes, but if fed in moderation they can be fine. Waxworms are very fatty and can be a great booster for weight gain or as a treat, but excessively fatty diets run the risk of causing a disease of the eyes for toads caused corneal lipidosis. As he's still growing, he's less at risk, but why risk it, right? So, maybe two or three meal worms and a single waxworm a week? Along with food, you'll want to give your little buddy a boost and help protect him from bone diseases and tongue problems by getting your hands on these two supplements, Rep-Cal Calcium + D3 and Rep-Cal Multivitamins. They'll last you a super long time and what you'll want to do is put the food in a container, such as a large cup or bowl that the food cannot escape and then use a spoon to sprinkle just a bit of these supplements on the bugs. Swirl em around to cover them with the power and then feed your toad. You'll want to give calcium supplements twice a week and multivitamin once a week or so.
Get your hand on a spray bottle that can shoot a mist. Once a day, or whenever the sediment looks dry, give the tank a spray down with your treated/spring water to keep things damp. Toads prefer drier environments in comparison to frogs, so if the top inch or so of the sediment is ever a little dry then that's still OK, but a daily spray down is nice. He can drink through his skin from the dirt, so it helps to keep the bottom few inches damp.