If you are a power user, consider one or two Cat5 outlets from your home network. Perhaps coaxial if your want a TV somewhere in there for the cook.
In wall speakers for tunes; extra points if they are Bluetooth.
Under cabinet lighting everywhere you can put it.
For the mixer, one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Rev-Shelf-RAS-ML-HDCR-Height-Cabinet/dp/B0042QB6M4
Matter of fact, look at the Rev-a-shelf website. You will not believe all the kitchen cool stuff they've got.
BIG ass pantry. You can never have enough space........
The biggest, deepest kitchen sink you can afford. So much more useful.
A pot filler at the stove.
R.O. water available at both the main and prep sinks. Do not put the filters under the sinks. Run the plumbing to a utility room and install the whole filter assembly out there. Crawling under the sink to change them truly sucks. You will thank me for this as you get older.
For the kitchen cabinets...for the lowers; try to order big deep drawers instead of cabinet doors. Much easier to load and unload.
For the plumbing, try to avoid 90 degree bends as much as possible. At some point, some time, you will have to snake it. And 45 degree bends are MUCH easier to run the snake through. Trust me on this. And plumbing clean-outs. Put them in while you can.
And lastly, a night light. My SIL gave us a canvas print from HobbyLobby that states "Best coffee in town - always good. 5 cents" I mounted an outlet up high on one wall, and mounted a soft white frosted LED light. Hung the print over it. This glows gently 24/7. So I can hit the kitchen at 2 AM without having to turn on any lights. Brilliant!
There’s a company that makes one for you to retrofit into your kitchen cabinet. link
Here you go. As you can see that's a tilt head in the product photos on Amazon. And in the stowed position it leaves room below for a storage pullout. With a larger mixer the available storage is reduced. That model is the one I've used several times and I haven't seen one quit yet. It is spring loaded to produce the lift, and the springs appear to be high quality enough to last at least a decade. The first one I installed was in a very tight galley kitchen such that when it was in use the projection into the galley passage from the countertop edge limited movement a bit. But you could still get around it.
Also I hereby second u/jellis811800's recommendation of all drawers below the counter (with the obvious exception of the lifter, and the sink base, etc.) if you can afford it. Full extension. High weight capacity drawer boxes. Drawers add dollars to a cabinet order big time. But imho drawers below the counter vastly expand the useful storage. I believe most people soon find themselves unwilling to remove one or two heavy Le Creuset casseroles to get to something in back when it is on a bottom shelf near floor level. Full extension, heavy duty drawers fix that.
On that note I'll also add I am particularly fond of the Blum TANDEMBOX system. I'll admit it isn't fine furniture featuring fancy dovetail joinery. But they can be configured in a nearly infinite variety of ways, at the high end are stronger by far than any other system, and fully adjustable, and most importantly easily repaired. If it should become damaged in daily use any one of the components can simply be replaced without having to build a new drawer. Drawers are the hardest working components of any cabinet system. And they do get damaged. As a point of reference I once built a vertical file system for my wife with high capacity TANDEMBOX and I was able to stand on them when fully extended (I'm over 250 lbs) and they only barely sagged. Blum components are available from lots of cabinet builders, but sometimes only as an extra option.
I have one like this, which works fine: https://www.amazon.com/Rev-Shelf-RAS-ML-HDCR-Height-Cabinet/dp/B0042QB6M4
the rev-a-shelf version is $114 on amazon and $118 at rockler. the soft-close version is $200.
you'll likely spend more on a jerry-built solution and travel expenses than paying for the hinges that are returnable if they don't work out.
iow, just spend the money and in a year you'll have forgotten about it.
Here are some ideas for the kitchen:
A commercial dishwasher, although loud, can wash a load of dishes in 90 seconds. Awesome for big family get togethers.
The largest, deepest single basin sink you can find. Makes washing big pots and pans a breeze.
NO lower cabinet shelving. Make every bottom cabinet deep pull-out drawers. Your back will thank me for this.
If you use a mixer, look at a swing out shelf.
https://www.amazon.com/Rev-Shelf-RAS-ML-HDCR-Height-Cabinet/dp/B0042QB6M4
A toe-kick vacuum: https://www.amazon.com/Sweepovac-9800260-Sweepovac-Built-Kitchen-Vacuum/dp/B07L9G5YNT
Low voltage wiring. CAT6 or 7, HDMI, maybe fiber. You can use it for the home network, TV, audio, the security system, etc.
Install more lights than you think you need, and put them on a dimmer.
Buy a powerful stove vent. A 1200 cfm vent fan running on it's second speed is far quieter than a 600 cfm fan running at high speed. It will scavenge the steam and odors, and you will still be able to carry on conversations like normal people.
Run the upper cabinets to the ceiling, but install pull down mechanisms: https://rev-a-shelf.com/2554
Run more electrical than you think you need. No one ever said they have too much power in their kitchen.
If the home is not brand new, replace every single piece of plumbing you can get to. This is the only chance you will get to do this with everything out of the way. And add cleanouts!
Reverse osmosis for both the main sink and the prep sink. Use it for drinking water, cooking, and preparation of food stuffs. Also run it to the fridge for the icemaker.
Put down the flooring first, then the lower cabinetry. This allows you to easily remove, repair, and reinstall the dishwasher.
Also, use appropriate flooring. You do not want anything that reacts badly to spills and seepage.
This is what I'm seeing in a lot of new houses. I want one. I don't have a stand mixer yet, though.