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Try using a multimeter on continuity to see what the pinout of that dsub connector is? Probably just some switches. If you're not afraid to open it up you could easily crack that baby open and solder to the switches and plug it into one of these encoders or a similar board, and use it like that. No need to replace the pad part.
It’s basically this board an aluminum box and some switches and buttons. It’s plug and play with some soldering on the switches and that’s it.
Never built a handheld/contained Raspberry Pi setup so I can only help with one aspect.
Not sure on the size you are looking for but you can get USB Encoders that you can wire all your buttons and joystick to and will act as a USB device.
MDF boards - $2 dollars per 3x3
Crown 307 lever - $24
buttons are sanwa, the price differs between different variables
PCB was [link]
doesn't work on PS4 to my knowledge.
other costs would just be screws and drill equipment.
Sorry to beat a dead horse, I'm new at this, So, for $11 on Amazon, I can get the Zero Delay USB encoder. $11 [link]
Then at Paradise Arcade I can get a Ball stick for $11 And 6 Sanwa buttons for $4 each = $35.
So a total of $35+11 = $46 plus whatever housing/case I get. (a plastic one on ebay going for $20, I saw a wooden kit for $50 (way too much))
Is that correct? Anything else I need?
I've heard good things about the Zero Delay encoder boards. You buy one for each player. Comes with all the wires you need for $10.44, you just supply the buttons and joystick of your choice.
There is a $10 usb controller roaming around from China. I bought one for a project I have yet to start....I'll look around but you will be hard pressed to find something cheaper than this.
Edit: Unless you want something like an atmega328
I actually used a product called Zero Delay USB Encoder, because after trying to wire directly to the GPIO board on the RasPi turned out being more difficult than I thought.
As you can imagine this took tons of work to design and build so please feel free to support a young engineering student with a donation at Paypal.me/TheCodyBrown
A good number of people asked for details about my shifter when I posted about my Humble Homemade Rig so here are the details!
I am too cheap to afford a TH8A and I don't care much for logitech shifters so I created my own. This uses a similar latching mechanism to other DIY shifters but I wanted to build a gated shifter that was completely self contained. The stiffness of the latching system is adjustable by tightening or changing out the spring!
This shifter uses a cheap USB encoder board (see link below) and 6 rocker switches to inform the game what gear is selected. This requires NO SOFTWARE at all! The PC simply sees it at as a game controller with a number of button inputs. The switches and board are just hot-glued in place, the switches need to be bent slightly to ensure contact with the shifter arm when in gear.
The rest of the shifter is made up of parts that you can find at a local hardware store and 3D printed components. I used PETG as it is crazy tough but any other type of filament can be used.
Link to 3D printing and Solidworks files:
Link to the USB Encoder:
Let me know if you have any questions!
US link for those who want to order
Sure, I used this one. Windows 10 recognized it by default.
Wire it like this on the joystick. One on the NO terminal and one on the ground terminal. You may need to replace the spade connectors on wires that came with the usb boards with bigger ones. I literally just did this today to attach my new joysticks. I got a couple of packs of these from home depot and clipped off the old ones, stripped it, then crimped the new ones onto the wires. Okay, that's the joystick side. On the boards, look at the bottom photo on the amazon listing. See where it says up down right left? That's where you plug in the joystick. Remember that the directions are opposite on the under side of the stick, but (I THINK) that shouldn't matter since you can map it in retropie anyway. Let me know if that works for you.
Something like this look good?
> 1) What utilities are a must to use on the retropie?
I use FileZilla (for SFTP transfers) It's free and effective.
I have a subscription to EmuMovies. You can get all of your previews (or "snaps") using their software. The program even names the video to match your ROM's file name.
Yes, you need to toss down a few bucks for a subscription (video access = premium, you can snag up to 250mb of other art for free), but it's worth it. Not only do you get the video assets, you gain access to high fidelity artwork (box covers, box backs, angled boxes, box spines, box tops, cartridge art marquees, advertisements -- gigs upon gigs of data). The service is outstanding.
Repeat for systems like Sega Master System vs Sega Mark III, Turbo Grafx vs PC Engine, or Sega Genesis vs Sega Mega Drive vs Sega 32X.
> 2) Which USB Joystick module is the BEST in your opinion? I don't mind spending a little more to get quality
This is a completely different science on its own. If you didn't grow up in an arcade, then skip all of this.
There's a lot to consider when choosing a joystick. It all comes down to personal preference and how much you want to spend.
Happ parts were infused in arcade machines in the 80's and early 90's. if you grew up playing Mortal Kombat and Street Fighter 2 at your local bowling alley, you were touching Happ parts.
Durning this era, Happ sourced parts from a European manufacturer, Industrias Lorenzo or "IL". Now, Happ is owned by Suzo, operating under the name "Suzo-Happ" and sources all of their parts from China.
Industrias Lorenzo still exists today and sells the same parts from the golden era of US arcade gaming. Their "Euro Joystick" is awesome.
Personally, I built a 12 button (Start, Coin, A, B, X, Y, L, R, L1, R1, L2, R2) w. joystick using all IL parts. It feels exactly like the arcades I grew up in.
Sanwa rules the scene. These joysticks are extremely tight and compact, allowing the user to quickly get off button combinations without misfires. There's quite a bit of customization too (dealing with directional gate/restriction plates, colors, etc).
Everything about the Japanese style stick is built for efficiency. The buttons are very sensitive and require less force to trigger.
If you're not doing any competitive play and aren't considering multi-purposing the controller for a modern console, the Zero Delay USB Encoder is magnificent. It's very easy to use, comes with the wires and works as designed. Note: You may need 1 extra cable if you're using a Japanese style joystick.
A final heads up:
Be weary of the arcade joystick kits you find on eBay and Amazon. There's no way to vouch for the authenticity or quality of the parts. Again, it all comes down to budget. These kits will get the job done, but you may experience some in-game frustrations when certain things just don't feel like they're working (especially throwing a fireball in SF2).
I know this is a ton of information to absorb and research, but I found building an arcade stick to be quite enjoyable. Also, you don't need to be a master electrician to make this stuff work. It's mostly plug and play.
I've purchased parts from:
Paradise Arcade Shop
UK Arcade World
The kits seem like a better deal, but if you piece together what you need, you gain a lot more customization (colors) and peace-of-mind (legitimate, authentic parts).
> 3) Any of you went with more than 6 buttons (+2 for start and select)? Any major pros to getting more buttons?
Pros comes down to button configurations. For example, I'm a huge Mortal Kombat fan. In MK3, they introduced a run button. It feels goofy when configured in a standard 6 button setup. With the extra button layout, I can drop it wherever I want and keep the 2 rows of 3 buttons for other games.
> 4) If I decide to get a coin acceptor, will it need a different usb-joystick module to plug it in?
There might be a better answer, because I've never tried setting one up ... but a joystick's USB encoder has many button slots. Some go unused. It's possible to setup the coin acceptor as a button on the USB which will replicate the "select" button when you map things out. Basically, you have 2 inputs doing the exact same thing (select button and coin acceptor).
> 5) Any major issues I mind stumble upon when I start building my cabinet?
A word of advice ... build the RetroPie image up first. Get all of that out of the way, then move onto the cabinet. Don't do everything at once because you can build up a convoluted pile of frustration (ex. woodworking issues, learning how to wire a joystick, configuring inputs on retropie ... all at the same time).
> 6) As far as roms go, is it better to have them zipped in retropie? Are there any problems with that? Also, do the scrappers work with zipped files fine or are there any problems also?
It's all console dependent. Some accept .zip, others don't. View this link for more details.
A general rule of thumb ... If a console's emulator accepts .zip, leave it zipped. This saves quite a bit of space.
> 7) MY 32gb sd card has the NTFS format. Is it better for it to be FAT?
Doesn't matter on the format. When you flash the RetroPie image to it, the format goes away.
Also, get a bigger SD card if possible. This isn't the place where you want to go cheap. CD-based game images (PSX, SegaCD, TurboCD) run up to 700MB each. The entire MAME library is over 10GB. Also, things like preview videos and box art take up a ton of space.
Something like this: [link]
So would some board like this for the switches work? I'm seeing a lot of button box tutorials using this: [link]
So I posted this board knowing fully that it is more optimized for arcades, however when making this post I discovered a board called the BBI-32 that can go up to 32 buttons, I was originally put off by it as I didn't understand exactly how it works and how to connect things, but after a little bit of research I realized how to connect everything.
The encoder I used was - [link]
The buttons are iL / Happ buttons and the joystick is a Happ as well.
Plans got changed, staying seated.
You would just replace the SLI with this
You can go smaller on the board form factor for more $$$ or more DIY(arduino programing)
*Another cheap option if you wanted just simple push buttons(no rotary encoders ect)