https://www.amazon.com/dp/1999654404/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_5S2ABH8EFEZNBPGN8770
Rock Climbing Technique: The Practical Guide to Movement Mastery
This is a fun book. It has some great exercises you can work into your sessions. For example, hand and hip is one where you can only move your hand if the corresponding hip is against the wall. This forces you to focus on body position and learn that you get better reach with your hip against the wall. It also forces you to rotate with each move, so you get out of the front-on habit that all beginners have. This one exercise, once mastered, can give you the "flow" that you see from more experienced climbers. I got it a few years ago and still do some of the exercises just to make easy routes more interesting.
Don't expect linear progression. Go slowly. Climbing is going to give you the best bang for your buck. The other exercises aren't compulsory, but becoming a stronger athlete will overall help you. However, you have to understand the overall stress you're putting on your system, even if it is "antagonist" muscle groups. It stresses the whole body, requires more rest, tires you out, and prevents adaption after recovery.
I've heard deadlift is a good one to weave into climbing training.
As a new weak boulder, I wouldn't recommend weighted dead hanging. You're going to get very strong forearm muscles without given the tendons time acclimate to the new forces put on them. I would recommend John Kettle's book to you. Technique will help you more than strength here.
>My focus is mainly on injury prevention
The more tired you are, the more likely you are to get hurt. Keep progressing slowly. Read some books, as climbing is a relatively new sport and we barely have data to back up claims.
Ok, I'll be the first.. Obviously you need to devote a large amount of your training to learning skill and technique. The new-ish John Kettle book is mentioned regularly on this sub and I can vouch for it—it's a no-nonsense list of highly effective technique drills and accompanying videos. Kris Hampton of the Power Company climbing has a series of movement skill youtube videos. Practice practice practice. Try and find someone with better skills that you can climb with and learn from. You have a head start with your strength, now you've gotta relax that grip and learn how to use your feet and hips and engage body tension.
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As far as synovitis goes, that sucks. There's advice on this sub which you can search for. Crimp avoidance is almost mandatory, taping can help, as can finger curls for some ppl. Progressive loading on the hangboard is a good idea.
Time on the wall + learn basic technique. She's frontal the entire climb and rarely swings her hips. Peep these:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkfUqdr-0zk&list=PLBCRwO0FN0zMTqSfFW9SMbK2tncTrI25r
and
https://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Technique-Practical-Movement/dp/1999654404
Hi. I highly recommend you to check out "Rook Climbing Technique". It covers skill exercises to do during your warm up (or throughout your session) to develop precisely what you're asking. The book comes with a YouTube channel with examples on how to correctly do each exercise.
Rock Climbing Technique by John Kettle is a good place to start.
John Kettle wrote the book on climbing techniques and he’s also a short climber. https://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Technique-Practical-Movement/dp/1999654404
https://www.trainingbeta.com/john-kettle-6-ways-to-lengthen-your-reach/
Lots of other books tend to be more training specific and technical but usually lack specifics on technique.
Master Class from Neil Gresham is a class, it’s feels dated but the information on technique and tactics is 100% still relevant. It’s also the only comprehensive video guide to climbing technique that I know of. It’s not specific to short climbers, but it dose have to be, it’s stuff everyone should learn.
Even though I’m short, I can’t think of short climbing YouTube guides, but again being short more about creative beta and learning to be dynamic, so you can tweak general technique. Send edition is a pretty decent YouTube Chanel https://youtube.com/c/SendEdition for new climbers or those who are trying to break into new grades. It’s just bouldering but the skills translate to all climbing.
Movement for climbers has some good stuff https://youtu.be/JiaDV3BefQg And specifically some video for short climbers ^ Learn High feet!
Rock Climbing Technique: The Practical Guide to Movement Mastery https://www.amazon.com/dp/1999654404/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_SE4T0FCSAJT8TBGPQF1T
Start learning technique and try harder problems, try them even if you’re failing.
But if you’re missing key technique, than it’s better to start with fundamentals. A good place to start is Niel Greshams master class. It’s older and has cheesy graphics but it works. It will fill in a lot gaps in learning.
Another easy one to follow is https://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Technique-Practical-Movement/dp/1999654404
If you’re lacking basic strength start working on body weight exercises but be careful about over doing it, it’s a balance especially when new climbing, if you over train, you lose gains too.
So if you’re already going 3 times a week that’s enough, but you can add one day of strength training in if you feel you need too, as long as your are having adequate rest between sessions. And don’t climb back to back.
Every other day is better for strength gains and injury prevention.
Also, climb with intention. If you think you were sloppy, do the climb again but make it cleaner. It’s called “perfect repeats.”
Taking a class is also helpful, if it’s a technique class.
Send addition is pretty decent channel for relatable and easy to understand technique and skills advice. https://youtube.com/c/SendEdition
6 weeks is not enough time to need to start training. Just climb a lot and read books like Rock Climbing Technique