They just need to match. Look at the description of the sub.... it say 2ohm. Then if you look at the amp specs you can run each channel at 2 ohms or bridge both channels at 4ohm. You needs a 400watt amp at 2ohms. You can then use this one for the highs. How long ago did you buy it? Amazon has a very generous return policy if you got it there.
Here’s an example of what would work for the subs.
Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KkOuBbVB8HJ44
I would go with a Rockford Fosgate 500x1d amp. It can give a bit over 300 watts rms at 4 ohms but if you set the gain from low until you get the desired output, the sub wont see power above its rating. (-;
I thought I had hyperlinked the equip names to amazon links in the OP i missed the RF amp I guess. I think my plan is gonna be rather than build the p2 a ported box, since I already have someone waiting to buy it, i'll go ahead and either sell it with the RF amp and just get to work on figuring out this whole new "ported" thing (i've built 5 or 6 sealed boxes for myself and others, never looked into the science of building ported boxes much. i know I've got some reading to do) start on the new box and rewiring, buy the dayton (from what you wrote and what've i've found comparing them I can't justify the price difference with the IDQ12) and something like that NVX after I look around a bit more at amps.
The other option is selling him the p2 in the box, and using the R500X1D to drive the dayton - the driver is rated at 700rms and the birth sheet on this amp said 684 watts so I'm sure it can push it well enough until I can put aside enough play money for a bigger amp.
I got the Prime 500x1 and it’s pretty solid. Good sound and the spec sheet say it’s pushing over 600 watts. Seems like a good value for about $130...
Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NgG3Db1MM47Y2
Go D-series. Sound quality/range is worth the price. I just upgraded from an 1100 Boss Monoblock to this Rockford Fosgate amp: https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539818799&sr=8-4&keywords=rockford+fosgate+d+amp and couldn't be happier. I'm only powering one 10" sub, but unless you're trying to wake up the neighbors it should suffice.
Edit: If you aren't planning to shell out for a nicer amp, just keep the one you have. I ran my Boss 1100 for about a year powering 2 Kicker 10" subs (same setup you have there) with no issues, and it could go LOUD. Run it, see how it sounds.
Hmmm...
Yea I was considering my options and I could get a single 600W RMS P3 12" (with nice ported box) for $179. Or I could get two P1 12" that are rated at 500W total RMS for $220-ish.
The first sub I'd never really be able to push to it's full potential with the amp I want. The Fosgate R500X1D is a sweet little amp for $120 bucks. It's rated at 500W RMS, but the certification sheet that comes with most of them is bench-rating them at 620-640 RMS. Now, I'd never want to push it more than 520W both for my cars sake, and for the amps sake, so the first single 600W sub option would never really be used to it's full potential.
The dual P1's I could probably make better use of that 520W was my thinking. 80W might make all the difference on that P3... I wish I could test both XD
This is what you want. Built like a tank and puts out 300W rms at 4 ohms, but you can adjust the gain down to match the sub. Your Kicker TC10 is actually rated at 150W rms at 4 ohms, 300W max. Idk where they got 500W from.
If you install the amp yourself, set the gains with a multimeter so you know exactly how much wattage is being sent to the sub. There is a link on the sidebar to tell you how.
If you pair that sub with a proper box (like the one i recommended), it will sound better and hit just as hard if not harder than the two you had. You may find that you dont need to buy another amp if its strong enough, but if it isn't then I would go with a RF prime amp. That will be more than sufficient.
I haven't actually bought a LOC yet, going to in the next couple days, just pulling some of the wire into the vehicle, and mounting the amp. Still wanting on the sub to arrive.
Also, I'd prefer not to have to pull the head unit either, becomes much more of a pain in the ass. If I can just tap off one, or 2 rear speakers that would be ideal. I just don't know much about it.
EDIT: Another reason i had not bought a LOC yet, is my Amp has a jack where you can input High Level Inputs from my speakers. Although someone had suggested getting a LOC.. Is that really necessary, if one is basically built in? Heres the amp https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=pe_386430_195257150_TE_dp_1
It’s $120 on Amazon . I wanted extra points for the website link lol.
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE
Perfect amp for the Dual 4 Ohm Type S 15" Sub
It looks like OP posted an AMP link. These should load faster, but AMP is controversial because of concerns over privacy and the Open Web.
Maybe check out the canonical page instead: https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE
^(I'm a bot | )^(Why & About)^( | )^(Summon: u/AmputatorBot)
Fosgate makes decent stuff.
There's over 1000 reviews on Amazon
And 150 on Crutchfield
Is there something specific you want to know about the amp? Yes it outputs rated power. Yes it's decent.
Have you firmly decided on that specific sub and amp combo?
The reason I ask is that you can pick up a RF 500w amp for about $150USD and a higher quality brand subwoofer for $210USD shipped for free.
If you build the box to the subwoofer's specifications (1.25 cu ft after displacement) in a ported/slotted enclosure, I think you'll be a lot happier with the end result. Prefab cheaply made sealed boxes are likely not going to make you happy.
Rockford Fosgate R500X1D: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BF6HYDE
DC Audio Level 2 12" Subwoofer: https://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/dc-audio-level-2-12-m4-600w-subwoofer/
Thoughts on this settup?
Just for reference, this is the box I have picked out already (not included in the $350 budget) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075K5PZHT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vNykFbCX8HB60
I’m no expert so others may chime in with better recommendations. I looked at Crutchfield and they didn’t have much beyond saving you $20.
There’s these one on Amazon.
Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier,BLACK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5p12EbX7014YB
Alpine MRV-M500 Mono V-Power Digital Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BMR7UPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7s12EbHT1HWNC
Not sure I would go much cheaper than these. The JL Audio you have is a quality piece of gear and would hate to see it driven by a cheap amplifier.
how much power are you looking to push? a sundown sa-12 is in that price range. the Rockford p3's are known for their nice low bass while still being nice and responsive. jl's I've found to be super overpriced. sub comparison for the p3 and w3. IMO, I'd choose the p3 and a really nice custom box. id also recommend the rf r500x1d to wire at 2 ohms
I've read about that auto leveling, it didn't seem to save the stock sub lol. (Though I think it blew when I was in an accident and got hit right in the driver-side rear.. they told me it was because I had the punch maxed out) Also, I don't really need it to go loud, so the stock sub was never a problem; I barely put it over 20-25 and it's loud enough for me and the wife.
I was looking at amps and it seems like they are around $150-250, but I would have no clue which one to get, that wouldn't blow all the speakers/be enough to power the sub. Any suggestions? I have wire schematics for taking apart the connectors going to the stock amp, so I wouldn't be opposed to just doing an in-place upgrade if I can for this price range.
And, looking at cheaper amps just for the sub, couldn't I get one of these two? Again, I know nothing, but I feel like I could use the existing wiring from the head to the amp by cutting the sub wires out of the connectors on the stock amp and connecting them to the output wires that run to the sub. Then I can cut the connector off in the trunk, put those 4 wires into a high level connector for whichever amp, and then run power separately. Then, with the sub amp in the trunk, I can run wires from it to the sub in whatever form necessary (IE, the BOSS one below gives 600w when bridged, so I would literally wire it as I am now)
Is my thought process in the right direction, or am I way out in left field?
EDIT: Also, couldn't I use an LC2iB in the trunk to hook up another amp to the pre-existing wiring without bypassing the stock amp? They seem to be about $90, and if I can get an amp specifically for the sub for $50-60, I'd be okay with the $150 range
Sub - Incriminator Audio I series 10" - $139 shipped
amp - Rockford 500.1d - $120 shipped
Amplifier kit - Knuknoceptz 4awg ofc - $60 shipped
If you've got a stock head unit you'll need a line out converter to get a signal to your amp from your radio
LOC - Kicker LOC - $13 shipped
Lastly is the box. Are you good with wood work and do you have the tools to cut an 8x4 piece of birch or MDF into 6 flat panels and then cut out appropriately sized holes? If yes, then you can get an 8x4 sheet of MDF for $30, or Birch for $50. If not... then you can buy a prefab box online like this.
Ok I think I will put a 12 in my backseat now. is this the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XlXqzbKCMPHC0
is this a good sub for the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BnXqzb188Y4KP
these wires? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SoXqzbR928SJY
And is this box good? Single 12" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GUT3JOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GpXqzbKXFSYCR
Would this sub be better since the amp is only 500 rms https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zqXqzb6PKAHB4
I don't have any drills or anything to make my own sub enclosure so that's why I'm asking if that box would be good enough or I can see if I can get someone to make one for me
I wanted to give an update.
2 pairs of these speakers KICKER 6.5" CS65
I'll be running the stock radio so I'm assuming everything installation related should be pretty self explanatory.
Am I missing anything?
So the amp will be seeing 2 ohms?
This will work well.
Yep, if you want to stick to Rockford try this.
Normally you spend money on the front speakers and even go without rear 6x9's That being said you can also save a few bucks on a 2 channel amp to run the just front speakers.
Shoving a pair of 6x9's in the rear dash when you have a 15 inch subwoofer in the trunk can sometimes be counter productive when you can leave the 6x9 rear speaker holes empty to allow the bass to more easily make it inside the cabin of the car.
Considering I have a round about estimate of your budget this is what I would do:
Front speaker amp: https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R150X2-2-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HY84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929435&sr=8-3&keywords=2+channel+amplifier
or if you can spring for a few more bucks: https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929479&sr=8-2&keywords=polk+audio+6.5
You will still need an amplifier wiring kit: https://www.amazon.com/Lightning-Rockford-Fosgate-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B00PB4BEE6/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929693&sr=8-12&keywords=amplifier+kit
Why do I recommend this setup? For the money you are spending and the music you are listening to this will be the best value.
The 15 inch kicker subwoofer you picked is ok but the 12 inch Sundown subwoofer will play lower and hit harder in the proper box. Ive installed both of these subs in the past and the 12 inch Sundown is a phenomenal sub and the Kicker is no comparison.
Subwoofer box: The subwoofer box you picked out isn't really that expensive when talking about the cost of a quality built sub box. However, the box you picked out is a small sealed enclosure. This will limit the really low frequencies your subwoofer could produce if in a larger box. A lot of the time it is better to opt for a smaller size sub in a larger ported enclosure for producing low frequencies such as rap and dubstep than a larger sub in a small sealed enclosure.
Amplifier: You picked out two different amplifiers. The sub amp I recommended has a higher rms output rating and better quality components. The amp for the full range speakers has the same better specs. You also picked out a 4 channel amp which is a waste of money when you can get more out of a 2 channel amp. 2 channel amps can still power 4 speakers if wired properly. Although, I would suggest forgetting about upgrading rear 6x9's and upgrade the front stage.
Front speakers: The front speakers I recommended are some of the best sounding speakers I have installed at their price point. The front speakers are the most important more over the rear speakers because that is where you are setting. I recommended the 6.5 because I believe those are the requirements for your car. If not then opt for the 5.25 of the same line
Note: I am a professional installer with 22 years of experience and have installed more systems than most people ever get to hear in a lifetime.
This is the most expensive e-series, but I think they're 15 in? So maybe I should go with the 12 inch one here? and for the amp you think I should get this?
Final thoughts on everything? I'll be putting them in a 1998 camry and presumably paying you to design me a box
If you're installing it yourself you can get away with $300-350, but if not then your budget is definitely not ideal.
amp: Rockford r500.1d - $120
sub: if you care about sq then alpine type s would be good for you. If you want loudness then soundqubed 10" is for you - around $100
amp kit: knukonceptz - $33
box: 1.5 cubic foot, tuned to 36hz - $60
Total is $313 and that's a 500W system that should sound good and hit hard like you want. The box is tuned a little high, but it should still sound good enough. If you want really low end extension for your sub (those low low bass notes) I would look for another ported box tuned a little lower with a larger internal volume. If space is an issue, go with a sealed box with a slightly larger internal volume than recommended for better low end extension.
This one will work.( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_rj8QvbB8PVPHK) My friend got one for his and it came with a birth sheet with 650 watts rms at 14.4volts so it should work great with the p3.
If you wanna go cheaper, I've heard great things about the Rockford Fosgate Punch 500w and plan to get it. For $120 it seems pretty great. The 750w version was clamped and did over 1000w, I've heard these are usually birthed around 650w.