What /u/moronotron stated. I used Rust-Oleum, Black, 248658 Rust Reformer Spray, 10.25 oz on mine and tossed some Rugged Ridge Floor Liners over it. That's got me held over until I replace the entire body. Oddly Home Depot had the floor liners for the cheapest price.
Ok, I would recommend using an epoxy primer then to protect it better than this stuff. I have used a similar Rustoleum product but only on stuff that isn't really exposed to the elements. It scratches off pretty easily. So that's why I'd suggest using an epoxy primer, for better protection against the elements and the salt.
rustoleum rust converting primer sounds silly, but drys super fast, its thin, and provides super adhesion to anything you spray over it, and if you just prime it, its a really hard to scratch surface.
Spray it with a rust reformer. The bed of my 2000 Tundra was getting large pockets/holes of rust. I used this stuff and it works great. It binds to and stops the rust, can be painted once dried.
https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-248658-10-25-Ounce-Reformer/dp/B003HG48AC
The rusty bit is a brake drum not the wheel.
If you remove the wheel, you can wire-brush the rust, spray a coat of rust converter on it, then paint it black (or any color you want).
It won't last forever but it will look better for a while.
Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
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Rust-Oleum, Black, 248658 Rust Reformer Spray, 10… | - | - | 4.6/5.0 |
^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger
Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
---|---|---|---|
Rust-Oleum, Black, 248658 Rust Reformer Spray, 10… | - | - | 4.6/5.0 |
^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger
Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
---|---|---|---|
Rust-Oleum, Black, 248658 Rust Reformer Spray, 10… | - | - | 4.6/5.0 |
^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger
<--- Coastal NC resident, with a fence and plenty of experience with hurricanes. Let me give you the guidebook.
1) There are two routes you can take: Trying to build hurricane proof (impossible), or building easy to repair/replace (recommended).
2) DO NOT SET WOODEN POSTS DIRECTLY IN THE GROUND. When (not if) a hurricane snaps them off, it will do so right at the top of the concrete, leaving you with a giant useless concrete spud in the ground. The appropriate move here is a concrete footer with a post-mount bracket like this. That way, WHEN the posts get snapped, replacement is painless.
3) DO NOT SIMPLY AUGER A 8-12in HOLE AND FILL WITH CONCRETE FOR FOOTER. Hurricanes bring rain and wind together, in copious amounts, and it can last for days. This means saturated soft soil and wind trying to push your fence over at the same time. If the posts don't snap, the whole thing will lean over and you'll have enlarged postholes and unstable footers. The best move here is a 12in x 48in x 18in footer perpindicular to the fenceline, essentially making each post a giant upside-down T which will very effectively resist leaning in storm conditions. Until the posts give way as mentioned above.
4) It doesn't matter if the wood is pressure treated. It doesn't matter if the metal is glavanized, powder coated, stainless steel, whatever. It's going to rot or rust. Period. End of discussion. Endless, constant salt spray is one of the harshest conditions on the planet. A tasteful PT wood frame with wire fill like this is a great way to let wind blow right through the fence in storm conditions, and WHEN it rusts you can touch up with like colored rust reformer spray paint until it begins to literally fall apart. At which point you buy another roll(s) of wire and replace it easily.
5) Why do you replace the wire easily? Because you did not attach it to the fence frame with metal staples like your dumbass neighbor. You listened to an internet stranger who lives in your exact situation and has fought this battle for years. You attached the wire to your fence frame by sandwiching it between the post and an additional piece of 2x4 that you screwed to the post with 3in coated decking screws. They hold up to the elements very well and even if they're so rusted you can't unscrew them, they are easily cut with the appropriate blade on a reciprocating saw and replaced. So instead of fucking with 12 rusted ass staple-nails per fence post just to get some rusted ass wire off, you're zapping out three screws, pulling the old wire off, slamming the new stuff up (you ARE unrolling new wire as you're rolling up the old, right? You don't seriously want have to come out here twice do you?), and zapping three screws back in. 60 seconds per post. Tops.
I am available for questions.
You could try this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HG48AC/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_VT5NTMEE4810CX9QWC8X
You are right.
I have this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003HG48AC). I was planning to clean the 'gutter' with Q-tips, then flow some 70% rubbing alcohol to dry out any water and spray the rust reformer. Let its do the job and then apply whatever sealant folks suggest.
You suggest https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81158-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B000AL6WLA and
not the one below
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82180-Maximum-Resistance-Silicone/dp/B0002UEN1U
right?
When you say warm-up, do you mean to keep it in hot water for some time?
Edit: Came across this, will it be useful, https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81850-Black-Weatherstrip-Adhesive/dp/B000HBI9EQ ?
How about wire brushing/sanding as much of the loose stuff off, spraying down with something like this then sealing with something else like this?
Try spry the rusted area with a rust reformer. Something like this. But there are many other selections at Amazon. Good luck.