Is your HDD actually broken? If not, you can remove the HDD yourself and use an external hard drive enclosure, to access your files.
All you need is your hard drive, as long as that isn't the broken part in your computer (sounds like a power issue though so you should be fine).
Might be a bit intimidating if you've never been inside a computer before, but you shouldn't need more than a screwdriver to be able to remove the drive (lots of guides online for how to do it). Then you could put it inside an enclosure like this and it will function like a regular external hard drive. All your data, including the farms, will still be there.
I've used this exact drive before for Wii games. No issues.
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And rather than an adapter, I'd get an enclosure. Here's a good one: Amazon.com: SABRENT 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-Free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized for SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP): Computers & Accessories
as everybody already said, you likely don't have two HDD slots (unless you happen to have a CD drive on your laptop...in which case it still depends, but SOMETIMES you can put a HD in that slot).
However, you can buy an external case for your existing HD and run it as an external drive.
Yes, you can do exactly that. You can also get a USB enclosure like this to turn the old drive into a convenient external drive.
Looking at the brand, it's probably pretty old (in computer terms) so it probably contains a 2.5 inch HDD. You should be able to unscrew the bottom of the laptop and take out the drive. You can then hook it up to basically any desktop computer using a sata cable or to a laptop using a HDD enclosure, something like this. This way you can retrieve your data.
Just want to mention that you can use an SSD easily with Xbox. You just get a usb case for like $8 and plug it in. Load time is the same as PC (I've done it on my older xbox).
I literally bought the first one off Amazon (this one). Think it was $9. Only thing I'd note about the enclosure is make sure it supports UASP, which will make best use of the SSD.
Any SanDisk will work great, they have never given me problems in the Wii.
Get however much storage you want. The 32GB "limit" is bullshit, we've had people using 64GB, 128GB, and 256GB cards without issue. I myself have only gone up to 64GB, but it worked fine.
If you don't have a hard drive, then you can also use an SD card to store game backups. You can use thumb drives, but if you don't already have one, then I wouldn't buy one. They're incredibly unpredictable in whether they work or not.
If you want to get a hard drive for storing games, then we have recommendations for that. Get any old 2.5" SATA laptop hard drive on eBay, and pair it with this enclosure. Unstoppable combo.
I'd recommend getting a 512GB internal hard drive or greater, but really you just need enough to fit your Wii games and any other games.
You'll also need an enclosure. I recommend getting a 2.5" SATA hard drive, and this enclosure: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
You can. The only real things I would recommend is to get an external hard drive enclosure and always "safely eject" when disconnecting from a PC to be safe. You want the enclosure to protect the HDD from any potential damage. This is especially true, but not limited to, static shock.
Picking literally the first option I saw on Amazon: HDD Enclosure I have never used this specific product, but am linking to show an example. Do not have a bare HDD.
Note: make sure the enclosure is the right size for the HDD. The one I showed is for 2.5" but there is a bigger size that has been used in desktops.
Simple and effective. Been using this one for ages.
> do you know what the issues are?
Manufacturers not sticking to the standards of the interface. As time marches on and they abide by it less and less, Flash Drives work with the Wii less and less. Since the Wii hasn't updated in almost a decade.
> What about an external SSD?
They use the same interface as any other HD (EIDE/SATA).
As long as you find an interface/enclosure that works with your Wii (most do as the standard for those protocols are more strict) then every hard drive you put in that enclosure will work in your Wii.
Our staff recommend this one: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
Tried and tested by most of our staff.
> Asus Q534U
So you basically just buy one of these (they're cheap), you remove the SSD from your computer, connect it the external drive, and connect it to another computer.
To access your files, the path should be "D(whatever letter the external drive is):\\Users\YourUserName" and you can look there
If it shows as an available device that probably means corruption, not fully unusable. If you have another computer with a working OS on it, try plugging in the drive as a secondary drive or getting a external bay like this that you can use to plug the hard drive in after it boots. Don't try to boot off the drive directly because that's probably not going to work without some sort of repair.
Also for obvious reasons I would recommend not buying a tool to do this if all you need to do is pull your FFXIV settings off the drive. This is more of a "I would like to recover multiple things from my drive if possible, and FFXIV settings are included in that" type of thing.
Worst case scenario get an empty hard drive caddy and put hard drive into it and transfer files from it to another laptop/computer https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sabrent-Custodia-Ottimizzato-Supporto-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=3MIEFRL1GD0G4&keywords=hard+drive+enclosure&qid=1664558813&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI1LjI1IiwicXNhIjoiNC45MSIsInFzcCI6IjQuMzEifQ%3D%3D&spref...
And while you're at it, might as well get it in the form of an enclosure, so that you can keep using the drive as external storage afterward.
That works too! here is one for a good deal .. https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
I have this one works great. I can even boot Linux from it. I have a ADATA one that's even better (more like an Otterbox) same price... They must have sold out I can't find it on Amazon anymore. here is the name A-DATA ED600 2.5 USB 3.2 Gen1 External Enclosure Cover Case for SSD HDD (Black)
I've got a cheap Sabrent branded USB to SATA HDD case that works fine. Mine has a 2.5", 500GB HDD out of a laptop. It's bus powered, so no separate power wire needed. They're like $12 USD on Amazon right now.
I upgraded my Home Assistant instance from a Pi3 to a Pi4 expecting a speed increase and it was not as much as I had hoped for. I later upgraded both my Pi3 and Pi4 to an SSD and that was a game changer. Both run MUCH faster with an SSD. Be careful if you go this route as not all SSD enclosures are built the same. I setup my Pi3 to boot from the SD card but run all the partitions from the SSD. I used an old SSD I pulled from a machine and this case:
Thank you for mentioning MX500! Just read about it and it looks like it's much better than the SSD I was going to buy. I'm going with MX500 instead :)
Do you have this one: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
I'm reading that it feels very cheap and bad plastic quality. Is that true (If you have this one)?
Yes, your data is on the drive that's in the bottom left-hand corner (underneath battery and to the left of those two fans).
You could probably get something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sabrent-Custodia-Ottimizzato-Supporto-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ and connect it to a new laptop if you want to get some data off of it.
You may also want to look into SSD/HDD cloning if you'd like to move all data to a new drive.
When you remove the drive from the laptop, just make sure there's no power going through the motherboard. Battery and charger should be disconnected.
Get an external USB enclosure for the SATA drive (this is for a 2.5" size drive)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
Remove the drive from the Mac and install in your enclosure, and connect to Windows. Use HFSExplorer to access the data and copy to your PC
www.howtogeek.com/252111/how-to-read-a-mac-formatted-drive-on-a-windows-pc
Thank you! I plan on ordering this. SABRENT 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-Free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized for SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_P71TAS2N5Q1QDD46EHDW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Oh oops! Good catch, I forgot to mention that drive is naked and is gonna need a SATA to USB 3.0 enclosure in order to work with a console.
Yes, you can remove it. It's typically very easy and only involves a few screws on a laptop, but depends on the model. What model is the laptop?
Depending on what kind of drive it is, you can probably just buy a 2.5" Drive enclosure to turn it into an external drive. Like this - https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
Yes, you can still retrieve data from it.
You can buy SSD case that includes cable on Amazon, like this one. For Windows just plug and play:
I bought an 860 EVO ssd for my 1X awhile back, this is the enclosure I got and I had no issues. I also had a 5tb hdd hooked up that I moved to my SX without having to do anything.
Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-Free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized for SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_NwPinENcNl1dp
If it's just a SATA drive then yeah you can just buy an enclosure for it, I've done similar things many times with old harddrives
What drive are you running in that Sabrent enclosure? I had the same issue and when I scanned the drive it had quite a few errors and some SMART critical warnings. I RMAd the drive and now all seems fine...
Seeing someone else having the same issues makes me worried about the Sabrent enclosure - maybe that's the culprit to SSD failure...
Mine started by giving errors when I was trying to download/move games to it - "installation stopped". Then I had issues with copying from it and finally, it was showing as full.
My SSD is a Samsung 870 EVO TB and this enclosure.
Doesn't have to be fancy, I rather like these basic sabrent enclosures.
Very, just unscrew the hdd, swap and insert ssd. Then reinstalled the os with a usb drive. Then put the hdd in an enclosure
I used this one, but any will do.
SABRENT 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-Free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized for SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_T9MHPK7RT7SNZC4T113K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Something like this? I intend to just plug the drive into new laptop, transfer files over onto the new HD, and just keep the old HD in the case in the closet for safekeeping.
Since it's a 2012 laptop I'm going to assume the HDD is a 2.5" with a SATA connection. You can grab an enclosure for about $10, then just unscrew the bottom of the laptop case, pop out the HDD and slide it into the enclosure. You can look up some YouTube videos, but it's not too difficult.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/
Most SSDs come with some kind of 'cloning' software, so that you do not have to re-install Windows. Instead you 'clone' your existing Windows environment from your HDD (spindle) to your new SSD (non-spindle).
It commonly requires that the SSD be connected via USB.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/
The above would work.
I would go that route, unless you want to re-install Windows and every application.
If it's only the data that you want, you could also just ask for the hard drive from the laptop and leave him the rest of the parts. You could even pay him back the £10 if he's still reluctant.
If you can get the hard drive, [you can order a USB enclosure like this one.](sabrent 2.5-inch sata to usb 3.0 tool-free external hard drive enclosure [optimized for ssd, support uasp sata iii] black (ec-uasp) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_VEPSECXYQG1M4K5QQW2Z) Then you can connect it to another computer just like any USB drive and relative your data.
> will find this quite complicated
It's not complicated at all. Buy an external drive enclosure like this, stick your old HDD into it, and plug it into the USB port in your new laptop. Alternatively, you could put the old drive in a drawer and save it in case you need a file off of it.
You can buy SATA to USB adapter cables, or if you want a more "permanent" external SSD you can get an enclosure like this.
Yep, a 2.5 in. SSD and either a USB to SATA cable or full enclosure like this. Plug the SSD in via USB first, and clone your hard drive to it, I recommend Macrium Reflect for cloning. Then open up the laptop and swap them.
Alternatively, if you buy an SSD that's too small to clone your hard drive to, you can just install a fresh Windows to it, and connect your hard drive via USB to copy over files that you need (but all of your software will need to be reinstalled).
well like i said you can also get an external enclosure for the drive and test it.
something like this might work for you.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
anyway i wish you the best with it and I hope whatever you do you don't lose your data
Looking to get an SSD enclosure for Sentry mode / music. Looking for recommendations.
I've got my eye on this one, but i've had such bad luck with usb stuff on the my model 3 that I figured I'd ask. Thanks!
These work great & are tool-less.
TBH I see this as potentially a two phase process. Get the external drive and correct enclosure and get it up and running and stuff copied across. At a later point, when I have more time, maybe move the drive internally.
So for now I want a decent 3TB drive with the best enclosure I can get to maximise speeds. If like you say I go from sub 100MB/S to near 400MB/S that will be a massive increase in performance.
Will something like this do the job?
you can buy a quality internal ssd and turn it into an external one. the ones sold as external all use mystery parts and are often low quality.
Yeah sure. You can plug it in as a second drive into any pc that has an extra connector (many do) or you can get an external drive case and connect it using USB
Example of such a case:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_TZ6WBQ4ZDYS169C2E3WA
OH sorry I misread. But it’s USB-A. It’s a small external drive for 2.5”.. similar to this:
SABRENT 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-Free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized for SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VAG0KCSDXFSK41C55PM4
Buy external SSD's. Or even better, regular 2.5" ssd's and get an enclosure as you need them. 128gb SSD drives are $20-$25, and an eclousure is $10
It's an amazing tool to add to your collection. Even if you only need it once, it's worth the $10.
Another good tip, if you want to you can keep the old HDD and put it in an enclosure and use it as a portable drive.
I haven't used this particular enclosure but it's from the same company as the cable I linked to earlier. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_Y74PZF135RXMV6DT8X38?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)
Usually when installing a new SSD, you would clone the disk with the prior installation on the current computer, and actually even before that, format it for Macs. Only then would you install it into the actual laptop. So if it’s completely empty, that’s why nothing will boot. Do you have the old drive by chance? You could reinstall it, or get a kit to boot from it and then clone to the SSD using Disk Utility.
Here’s an example of what you need to clone the drive to the new one (note: I haven’t used this specific one myself).
Do you have access to another Mac by chance or can you use another computer (maybe a friend’s Mac) to create a boot drive with High Sierra (Mojave and Catalina are not compatible with 2011 MBPs without a patcher so that likely won’t work)?
Other than that, maybe others will have some help to offer.
What cable? Are you connecting it directly USB to the SSD? Very interested to see if so, take a pic if you can. If you somehow have it connected that way, it won't work.
Anyway easiest is probably with an external 2.5" SATA enclosure. They are pretty cheap, and come with a USB to SATA controller built in.
Random amazon example - www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
The SSD will not be able to reach its maximum potential without UASP. I’d recommend snagging one online ASAP as they’re basically dirt cheap for the speeds you’ll get.
SABRENT 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-Free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized for SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_3u3-FbABKJ857?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You may want to get one of these and put ur new ssd in it and plug it in to a USB port. It should show up like a normal external drive. Then with your other os running, put in ur installation usb and run it. When it asks where to install (it’s been a while, but I think it will do this), select the external drive and it should install it.
You could totally use this type of drive for that purpose. It would be better especially if you plan on it being portable and moves around alot. The only thing you need to think about is this drive big enough for her needs? Alot of the those hdd externals are multi TB. And this is only half a TB. Also you'll need something like this as well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_T8-NFbR5VVB1W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You need a SATA to USB adapter. Like this:
Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-Free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized for SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rGCMFbFQ6RMD0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Like u/wahwahwaaaaah noted, enclosures for SSDs are pretty cheap. Amazon has a few for less than $10, one of which I purchased and am very happy with. They connect via USB to any of the USB slots on the Xbox.
Here's the one I have: Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_r7tQAb8WS0XW6
I ended up getting this. Should be fine right? Sorry to ask again, but I figured I would double check just in case. Apparently amazon forces you to buy a minimum of 2 of the original that I linked. Thanks for the help! :)
I have used several of these over the past couple of years. Recommended.
Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-Free External Hard Drive Enclosure
Protects SSD from damage of you use it with laptop and travel alot. That are cheap as well
I have this with a samsung evo I had doing nothing.
Powered by usb which is plugged into router usb slot which also powers my surepet hub (router is cheap free crap you get from isp)
My pi3 has the official power supply + a cheap heatsink kit off eBay and a cheap case.
Zero issues.
You slide in a regular SATA SSD to make it an external drive. You could just buy an SSD that's made to be an external drive already but it costs more.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/
I've been using that enclosure with a 512 GB SSD on my One X for a few years now
You can buy a usb adapter for SATA hard drives. Simply insert the drive from laptop 1 in to the USB enclosure. Plug the USB in to laptop 2.
If the drive is operating The drive will then show up like a usb memory stick and you will be able to copy across the data
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nuntFbSAK811Y
If it's a laptop HD, just buy an external USB case for about $30 and put it in. If it's an m.2 form factor, just buy the appropriate external case. Until it gets much larger than any available laptop drive, make and model don't really matter. I'd give you a link to the one that I use, but it's more than 5 years old and unlikely to be manufactured anymore. No tools required and USB 3, so no need to replace it.
you talk about the hdd, not the memory (ram). :)
best way to use it is as an external drive.
check out a 2,5" case , save your data and use it as a backup or data-grave drive in the future
I do not have any USB stick recommendations as I do not have enough experience with those, but I can recommend you get a 2.5" hard drive or SSD (you can pull one out of an old unused laptop or the like), and get an enclosure like this
You can buy an encloser for internal hardrives on amazon for like 10$ or cheaper. Just pop that in and you should be good to go (after formatting it properly and wiping it).
disk 2 has a adpater on it and you can pull it off and it will be like disk one, disk one is a 2.5in sata hard disk. some thing like this should do product page (amazon us)
I use this enclosure, cheap and highly rated on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S?ref_=Oct_CABSellerC_160354011_0&pf_rd_p=54acbc6c-76f4-5105-a328-28c30f0cfa6e&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-6&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_i=160354011&pf_rd_m=ATV...
Find the best price/size/name brand you can on sale.
I went with an internal Western Digital Blue 500 GB for $60. Slapped into my $9 enclosure linked above and I was good to go.
I have no idea what “caddy from SATA to USB 2.5mm” is. Is this what I need? I just simply Googled that term.
Can you tell me how to clone the drive and what the Caddy is you’re mentioning?
Sorry, as I said I’m starting from the ground up.
Dear Bungie: Do you like money? I like money too. We should hang out.
Imagine this... Destiny themed hard drive enclosures.
Like this only with the Tricorn on it or something. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1qFbEbWK3F6QJ
Can you show us what the drive inside looks like? There are retail solutions for encasing laptop-sized drive in a USB case.
Does it look easy to open up? And do you have a screwdriver small enough to open it?
If you look up a YouTube video on replacing your brand/model's hard drive it should teach you.
Just unscrew lots of things, (discharge static electricity by touching part of the frame) unplug a few components, and pull the drive. Replug all the components, and close it up!
Really the only things that could go wrong are:
So follow the instructions, and make sure to touch the metal support structure often, and it will go fine.
It's not like it will become less useful to you if you mess it up.
If not having the hard drive in doesn't fix it, then you can buy an external hard drive enclosure example to recover your files and have a super big usb drive.
Yes I'm using an enclosure this one to be specific: Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pNZwDbCQC470M
It works when connecting to my pc which is how I was able to try formatting it as one of the methods.
The other option is taking it to a professional.
Yes, it is likely it is too damaged, but you can't know for sure until you try.
You will need to take a part laptop and pick up an external bay such as this: Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-Free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized for SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_q3bsDbMMG8PAQ
In order to turn a internal HDD into an external HDD, you would need an enclosure like this:
That's all. No further equipment necessary to turn an internal HDD into an external HDD. You need to make sure that the external enclosure supports 2.5" SATA HDDs / SSDs.
And no problem, was glad to help. Let me know how it goes.
Sorry I didn't see this. Yea you gotta buy the external case. It's 8.99. You just put the card in it then plug it in with the usb cord it comes with.
$9 really isn't that much to spend on this:
Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_mIlzCbQPA9RWV
This is the enclosure I have. Per your post, perhaps put the LED light side down if you don't want to look at it(or search amazon and pick a different one).
Plug in SSD to enclosure, plug into xbox, xbox will ask to format, format for games, move PUBG to external SSD. Make sure it is not just copied but moved, so it is for sure running from the SSD.
mSATA is just a form factor. Should be about the same performance as a normal SSD. Any 2.5 SSD (capacity is all on you) will work.
Did you think of pulling the HD and putting it into an enclosure to save your data? I've been there and pulling the HD really saved me.
Slightly off topic, you should try pulling the hard drive out of the old computer and use a USB hard drive enclosure to transfer the old files that you want to keep to the new computer. Just because the old laptop isn't working doesn't mean the files are lost.
Just a random ebay enclosure from China. Most people get this one
Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TwD8AbK2JWZKA
Had to buy the enclosure separately but it includes the cable. I got mine from ebay but this one seems like the most popular one in this sub.
Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TwD8AbK2JWZKA
Oh, that's easier, it's a simple SATA power and SATA data connection. Any enclosure with a SATA connection should work just fine, although I'd recommend using one with a USB 3.0 output and the HDD can read and write much faster than the 480Mbps limitation of USB 2.0. Something like this would work great and it's super cheap-
The SATA connections have a sideways 'L' shaped connector for both the separate power and data connections and will only plug-in one way.
Gaming -> Windows (no real other option)
Literally anything else -> MacBook (they're worth the money)
If you are on a real tight budget, I'd recommend get any laptop with a decent pentium/i3 and switch the internal HDD for an SSD. Then get a case (something like this) and use the internal HDD as an external HDD.
Get the MacBook Air and not the Pro, its cheaper.
I bought an enclosure for less on Amazon, I also have one of these cables for my desktop but I think the enclosure is better for a drive that will be connected longer term. This is a good cheap enclosure:
Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DbDmAbM1MYBRZ
Doesn't really matter. It'll work with any of those. Typically if you get an enclosure that can handle version 3 it's backwards compatable with slower/older standards. I'd go for this one: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509563599&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=belkin+hard+drive+enclosure
By 2.5inch to USB enclosure,do you mean something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505167382&sr=8-3&keywords=2.5+inch+to+usb+enclosure?
This one is indeed cheap.
Thanks OP! No hassle on the phone. Gave them the SKU and said to price match with newegg. Got my order confirmation a few minutes later - $269 + tax + $130 gift card.
*edit - I want to use this as an external drive with my imac that has 256gb flash on board. This is my first external SSD/USB drive, is there anything I should look for in an enclosure? Can anyone recommend a good external enclosure for this? Here is a cheap one on amazon - seems like it should work. Is there something else I should look out for?
An external enclosure can help to format while running the OS from the HDD. Ultimately you could "clone" the drive to the SSD while it is plugged into the computer with the external enclosure. Otherwise you'd need to plug in the SSD and boot the Windows installer from a disc or USB and do a fresh install of the OS. Here is an external enclosure:
Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5Rfxzb7C8VFYM
I'm assuming that you are using a laptop with multiple HDD slots (if not let me know). Use an external enclosure for HDD B to clone everything from B to C. That means A is still plugged in and running the OS. The same still stands for desktop but you'll need to get an enclosure for a 3.5" HDD instead.
Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5Rfxzb7C8VFYM
Reseating your RAM is just taking it out and putting it back in place. As for the hard drive, you would need a cable to plug or external enclosure for the hard drive, such as this. It's an external enclosure, so you would remove your hard drive from the laptop, put it in this, and plug it into a working computer.
You can literally get a sata to usb 3.0 cable as well as long as it has uasp support. (not sure if the uasp support is necessary but that seems to be the most modern protocol and seems easy enough to find)
If you have a USB3 port, I had good results on this inexpensive $13 Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-free External Hard Drive housing.
I did not try it on a hdd, but on a SSD, it improved rw speeds by 50pct over my old USB3 housing.
Just an idea for the future.
It's likely that the SSD mfg will have a tool for this very purpose.
For me, I used easus free.
As to a temporary enclosure, I strongly recommend this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Feel free to replace the enclosure > https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1467411679&sr=8-5&keywords=external+sata+enclosure
theirs tons on the market , pick what works best for you usb3 / firewire / etc. etc.
Good link, some of the comments mention that they were getting an error saying it needs to be a hard drive. At this point, to rid the hassle, I would just an external hard drive, format it, and use it. BTW if you get an external you will need this, to connect it.
Sorry to bother you again, but should this enclosure also work? I was looking around and found this one with UASP, it looks nicer, and it's a little cheaper. http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1463947865&sr=8-3&keywords=UASP
What was done to the computer such that it's not functioning? It kind of sounds like it could be revived, if nothing was done to damage the hardware.
Of course there is a way to get at the data. There's a wide of way of adapters/enclosures for hard drives that can plug into a computer with USB or other means.
Assuming the drive is in good enough shape, anything along this line should work fine, once you get the drive out of the computer (which is relatively easy on that model.)
You gotta check out a 2.5 enclosure, just pop in the ssd, connect it to the laptop by usb and clone https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=sata+hdd+enclosure&qid=1568905424&s=gateway&sr=8-5
I got tired of losing flash drives and put a couple ssd's in external enclosures likes this
I got a PNY 240GB SSD and just a basic External SSD enclosure, both from my local Best Buy. The enclosure was pretty cheap and i could have probably found it even cheaper on amazon or something but i didn’t want to wait for shipping.
Also: Microsoft says that the Xbox one requires the external drive to be 256GB or more to work, but it’s not true. Like i said, mines a 240GB and it works just fine. At Best Buy, the 240GB was $70 and the 480GB was $130, so it just depends on how much you want to pay.
Edit: I paid like $25 at Best Buy on my enclosure but here’s one on amazon for $10 link
Whut? No it's just common thought. You're more likely to bitch to the internet if you have a bad experience rather than a good. Keyboard warriors 101.
If it's an external hard drive:
Enclosure (literally plug and play)
Internal: WD Drive , 5400 because 7200 tend to heat up faster and the PS4 is loud enough.
Yes, through the Raspberry Pi and RaSCSI. My current setup. Please don't mind the HDD just hanging out, my external enclosure is on its way. The cable on the left is the DB 25 cable that connects to my PM 7500/100 (external SCSI DB 25). One big advantage of using the RPi is I created a WiFi bridge, sharing its internet over the Ethernet port.
(Edit) the device underneath the RPi is a TP-Link 5 port switch . I just realized the angle I took the picture sucks.
Windows not booting does not mean the hard drive failed. Windows often becomes corrupt and won't boot. I would get a USB case for that drive and try to copy your photos off to another computer first, get an online back-up going so you don't lose them. Then you can work on reinstalling Windows using that same drive or a new drive. If you don't have another computer then just buy a new hard drive, like a 512GB SSD, and start reinstalling Windows.
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
For those wanting something like this without spending $199
"SSD is going run $199 for 512GB"
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OJ3UJ2S/ - case I use and have 0 issues with for a year now - $12.99
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LS31KQG/ - An "upgraded" version of the case that is aluminum and $3 less
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IAGSD68/ - current lowest price on a decent 500+GB SSD from Amazon $118.71. It's a Crucial MX300. You can shop around here, Samsung 850 evo's are a little more expensive but very reliable.
It's literally plug and play with that case. Comes with the cables and no need to do anything fancy. Just insert drive into case, no screws to use and plug it into the Xbox One with the cord that comes with the case.
I have about 4 of these with various HDDs and SSDs in them and they work great
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lW4EFbP0N6MWM
Let me fix this:
It is well known that flash drives can have compatibility issues with the Wii.
The best way to go is an internal HDD and an enclosure, not an adapter. An adapter will technically work, but it doesn't protect the drive at all.
Most laptop drives are 2'5", and most ones are SATA, unless you got it from an extremely old laptop.
For 2.5" SATA drives, this is the enclosure we recommend: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
I now have 3 of these, they all work well.
Here's the link to the aforementioned enclosure: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
A hard drive is the best way to store games, and an SD card is the best way to store homebrew apps. This is because the SD card can be easily taken out and put into a computer to transfer apps, whereas the hard drive is less portable and much faster for large game transfers.
A flash drive is an overall bad idea for game storage. They have poor compatibility with the Wii, flash drives won't last long (relatively speaking) in the position of playing games off of it.
A hard drive gets you more storage for cheaper, more reliably and faster. It's a no-brainer.
So I would suggest you get an SD card and a hard drive. You probably have at least one of those things already lying around the house. Amazon is a great resource for SD cards, though it might be a better idea to use eBay and get a used one if you need a hard drive.
This is our recommended enclosure for internal hard drives. Laptop hard drives are smaller and don't require much power, so it's likely you'll be able to run it out of a single USB port.
Once you have your SD card and hard drive, follow this guide. It'll take you through the whole process, step-by-step.
What they're referring to is not expensive. It might even just be an SATA to USB cable or an enclosure, which is under $20 on Amazon.
Well, there's nothing stopping you from putting it in an enclosure and seeing if it works:
I don't own either of these devices, and have no idea how well they work. I also have no financial connection to either company or Amazon. I just searched Amazon for "SSD enclosure" and these were the first two of each type that came up.
> Nvidia shield
> 1-2TB SSD Storage is more than plenty
You do not need a NAS. Just get a USB hard drive.
USB enclosure: $20 https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
1TB SSD: $65 https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-BX500-NAND-2-5-Inch-Internal/dp/B07YD579WM
2TB HDD: $75 https://www.amazon.com/Blue-2TB-Mobile-Hard-Drive/dp/B079BQS5WQ/
Here's an example of an enclosure: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3M9T8AJ2JXXGB&keywords=ssd+enclosure&qid=1660818611&sprefix=ssd+enclosure%2Caps%2C91&sr=8-3
You can buy an external SSD but an enclosure has the advantage that you can change them out in the future.
Reset the Board using Jumper? So you tried out all that but your Drives does or does not show up in BIOS or in Boot Option Menu?
If bootloader is corrupted, then just reinstall Windows 10 over your existing one. If not then.
SATA Cable and Power Cable confirmed? Can you confirm the Hard Drives are working with another PC or using an Enclosure? <strong>https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S</strong> it's something to buy but is useful all around.
Could be Mobo is bad, it is an old Mobo so might've gone bad.
Yes, you can stick the Samsung 870 in something like this
I would invest in a nice external hard drive. Or you can just do it with this dongle and an external SSD.
small 2.5in ssd external enclosure
or
large 2.5" and 3.5" external enclosure
Or any other number of external hard drive enclosures. You want something to backup your photos and important personal documents.
Just delete old data every 10 years or 5 years or so. You don't need to store data forever.
I deleted all the old game patches and saved game files that I had when I was a kid. Some stuff I save. All my photos I save.
I'm just saying that you won't see much difference between any of the devices, especially considering you're limited by USB. Get it based on cost/user reviews.
Getting an enclosure like this for 2.5" SATA: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
or this for NVMe: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08G14NBCS
Just plug in the SSD, close the enclosure and you're good to go. It's just an option to consider.
And yes, if it has UASP, at least with Windows, it should automatically TRIM the drive. You can check by going into windows defrag (just type 'defrag' in windows start menu and select 'Defragment and Optimize Drives'), and if you hit "optimize" it should show it trimming the drive. This is not really necessary to do it manually, because if it's enabled, it will TRIM the disk whenever files are deleted.
Or go to elevated command prompt and type: DEFRAG D: /L
or replace D:
with whatever drive you want to TRIM. That command will either TRIM the drive if supported or say drive does not support TRIM. If you're using MacOS or Linux, I'm not sure.
You put your SSD into this.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/
Get the Samsung Data Migration software.
https://semiconductor.samsung.com/consumer-storage/support/tools/
You'll need to connect the SSD (via the external enclosure) to your PC while it is powered on. Then launch the Samsung software and begin the cloning process - it will likely take several hours.
Once the process is complete, shut down your PC, remove your HDD (existing hard drive), put the SSD into your machine in, likely using the exact same power & data cables that were previously plugged into your HDD. Power on your machine. Enjoy!
If your drive is a SATA drive, get a SATA converter or enclosure, like this one https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
Yep. Though would suggest 500gb drives. The pricing vs 240 is similar if you keep an eye out for deals. And bigger space may come in handy for longhorn later.
https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00OJ3UJ2S
You can go fairly cheap on ssd side - the rasps seem pretty constrained on IO anyway. Best as I can tell you get 200mb/s max anyway which is well below the 540mb/s advertised for the ssd i got
Recently bought some for a cluster
https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00OJ3UJ2S
https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07G3KGYZQ
On the SSD side any of the major brands should work though so I'd pick whatever looks best at the time
>https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
Yes, it did. I got 3 of them that's working well. :)
Ok, allow me to educate you for a second.
The term is SATA, not SATO, and it stands for Serial AT Attachment. Depending on what drive you are going to 'slave', you would need an external enclosure.
For example, if you want to clone the SATA drive to the NVMe, you could use one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
If you want to clone the NVMe to the SATA drive, you could use one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/SSK-Aluminum-Enclosure-Adapter-External/dp/B07MNFH1PX
This is the enclosure verified by the community. https://smile.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/?id=rwiihacks-20&sa-no-redirect=1
> $50
I was thinking simple stuff. ;)
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
I own 3 like that from NATEC. No complaints whatsoever so far.
Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
---|---|---|---|
SABRENT 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-Free Extern… | $11.98 | $11.98 | 4.5/5.0 |
^Item&nbsp;Info | Bot&nbsp;Info | Trigger
Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
---|---|---|---|
SABRENT 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-Free Extern… | $11.98 | $11.98 | 4.5/5.0 |
^Item&nbsp;Info | Bot&nbsp;Info | Trigger
Or they could just buy a $12 enclosure
As u/Thulack pointed out - you seem a bit confused. There's SSD (Solid State Drives) and HD/HDD (Hard Disk Drive). There is no such thing as an SSD HD.
I'll start by giving a simple example: * If you want to travel somewhere - you could get something like a: * car * horse * bicycle * If you drive these, you could drive it on: * on dirt * a gravel path, * a cobblestone road * a well paved highway/freeway/motorway
If as an analogy we say 10 megabytes per second = 1 km/hr:
* A Hard Disk Drive can go up up to 100-150 megabytes per second - this is 10-15 km/hr like a horse.
* A Solid State Drive can be 2,000 - 7,000 megabytes per second - this is 200-700 km/hr like a race car.
Now factually - 8 b*its is a byte and 1000 mega___ is a giga____. 5 gigabits = 5,000 megabits = 625 megaby*tes per second.
5 gigabits / 625 megabytes / 63 km/hr is the speed of the road. With a horse / external hard drive you will never actually reach this speed.
A horse / hard drive has 1 benefit over an SSD / Car - it's cheap. Hard drives/horses have a shorter lifetime, they can completely die at any minute, and a simple bump/drop can destroy it. This is why the Toshiba 4TB drive is cheaper.
An SSD / car is much faster, much more reliable, but as you noticed costs a lot more.
You can also easily build your own without any special tools. Almost all external drives are internal drives in a case.
The case is known as an external enclosure. They have 4 kinds - 2.5" (most common), 3.5", M.2 SATA, and M.2 NVMe. These cases can USB B, USB Micro-B, USB C, 5 gigabit, 10 gigabit, 20 gigabit, etc.
For example this is a 2.5" enclosure that's also 5 gigabit - it's 10 Euro: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
This is a 500GB 2.5" hard drive - it's 25 Euro: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0077IQ0AM
This is a 500GB 2.5 Solid State Drive - it's about 50 Euro: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07G3KGYZQ
Overall in tech, things tend to be duopolized/oligarchal
There are 2 companies that act Hard Drives: * Seagate * Western Digital/Toshiba (basically the same factory)
I recommend the Sabrent enclosure: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
Cheap and works really well. I have like 4 of them.
SSDs on the Wii are a waste of money. The speed is limited to USB 2.0 anyway, so you won't get a speed boost compared to an HDD.
SABRENT 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-Free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized for SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_YTMHFGZVBWV2BX6BT000?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
SABRENT 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-Free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized for SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_YTMHFGZVBWV2BX6BT000?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
SABRENT 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-Free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized for SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_Z33MZ230P52XH61SC9PH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I already have a Sabrent enclosure. Do you think it’s OK?
Just use an enclosure easy enough. :)
Is it screwed on the other side? You PC case should have a 2 removable sides. One is to look inside and the other conceals cables. Also you would need some kind of external housing for it to go into https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1J7KNWRNADD52&keywords=2.5+ssd+external+enclosure&qid=1636329032&sprefix=2.5+ssd+ex%2Caps%2C162&sr=8-3
I am sure you can find a better already external drive for $60.
Those two should bring you in at 40$ before shipping. You can probably cut the hard drive cost even further by finding an older, legacy drive.
Whats worked for me, in your situation, is installing to a new drive, then by connecting your old drive via USB or equivalent, copy /home, /root, others, over. It helps when you have a budget for a spare SSD or have them around.
On multiple distros, I've merely copied /home over intact, and my users never miss a beat. Short of that, copying over ~/.mozilla means you retain Firefox settings (extensions, favorites, etc) perfectly. Though, I'm not sure if this is the recommended way to migrate Firefox to new hardware.
By maintaining your old drive, you can safely experiment, and afterwards your old drive can be repurposed.
You could buy a tool free 2.5" SATA enclosure for around $10: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/
You can buy a 2.5" SATA SSD starting at around $15-$20: * https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094XJ8WWR/ * https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0963SGYGF
It just snaps together and doesn't need any tools to assemble.
You will probably need to reinstall Windows. There is an option in the Windows installer to keep files from the previous installation, but when I tried it barely any files were saved. I would recommend using something like this and manually backing up your files. As for reinstalling windows you can follow this guide. If you don't have another computer, to flash the usb, I can offer alternatives.
You will probably need to reinstall Windows. There is an option in the Windows installer to keep files from the previous installation, but when I tried it barely any files were saved. I would recommend using something like this and manually backing up your files. As for reinstalling windows you can follow this guide. If you don't have another computer, to flash the usb, I can offer alternatives.
You just need an external drive enclosure. Choose the appropriate enclosure for the type of drive it has.
Something like this should do the trick.
Dunno about the software though.
Windows installation cannot repair such issues, because the issue is on hardware layer.
You can try external USB enclosure to connect failed SSD. There are small chances, that it will be recognized, and you’ll be able to copy data. Certainly, you need either install Windows on HDD or connect enclosure to another PC/laptop. Enclosure example - https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/
If SSD cannot be recognized at all (internal SATA and external enclosure), I doubt that it will be possible to restore or transfer data at home. If data is really important, take the drive to professional recovery service (the price for SSD recovery may be very high).
To avoid such situation in the future do periodically health check of storage (with CrystalDiskMark or vendor tool) and have backups for important data. For critical data two backups are highly desirable to follow 3-2-1 backup rule - https://www.starwindsoftware.com/blog/3-2-1-backup-strategy-why-your-data-always-survives
As a new drive I can recommend Samsung 860 Pro (very reliable) or Samsung 860EVO (cheaper). https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-860-PRO-512GB-SSD/dp/B0793G7R9W/ .
I also think this will be your best bet if you want to do something asap. I just checked and my harddrive to usb converting closure is missing, otherwise would have given it to you.
You can order one from amazon if you'd rather do this yourself:
I assume that a simple USB to 2.5" SATA connector wouldn't be sufficient? Example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2\_dt\_b\_product\_details
So this one will work?
Rimani su marche famose e non comprare cinesate e più o meno avrai un'ottima esperienza. Se vuoi puoi comprare tu un hard disk 2,5 pollici e metterlo in un case come https://www.amazon.it/Sabrent-EC-UASP-Enclosure-storage-enclosure/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S (è quello che ho fatto io)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_9CPB6948JMZ4HGMBZQXH
Use that an any internal ssd an slap the ssd inside of it an you're done.
SABRENT 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-Free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized for SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XJRPHJSCDAZDDMMH3MJ8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Western Digital 1TB WD Blue 3D NAND Internal PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, 2.5"/7mm, Up to 560 MB/s - WDS100T2B0A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_TXWC61VSYDWKNHPT9WX8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
SanDisk 128GB Extreme MicroSDXC UHS-I Memory Card with Adapter - C10, U3, V30, 4K, A2, Micro SD - SDSQXA1-128G-GN6MA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCMKK5X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_296ECWFVM5KAN32X0YXK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
CanaKit Raspberry Pi 4 Basic Kit (8GB RAM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DJ9MLHV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6QFNXSCBR89X88M2VMQ6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
MazerPi [2020 Latest] Raspberry Pi 4 Touchscreen, 3.5 inch 60+fps 480x320 Resolution HD Raspberry Pi Touchscreen with Cooling Fan and Case for Raspberry 4 Model B/Pi 4b (Screen with Case) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WXH1DR8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MDPFD3T10GFC8T1WX9GM
Just the basics
It's really hard to recommend an external HDD these days. I have both an External HDD and an External SSD and there is a big difference.
You don't have to spend a fortune to get an SSD, here is mine.
SATA to USB case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_ZXTABRFB5HQGSTPBF4YJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
SSD: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_S28PX95EMYMQ0X097SAB
I got the SSD on sale at Best Buy for $50, so be sure to check sales nearby before getting it through Amazon!
Is this the enclosure you were referencing?
If you would like to put that SSD to use might I suggest purchasing an enclosure to turn it into external storage.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_K8PYPW4ZKS5FQNP3418M
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Pro+13-Inch+Unibody+Mid+2012+Hard+Drive+Replacement/10378
If your purpose is just to remove the hard drive. use the link above.
Also I would recommend you buy a hard drive enclosure: anything that can fit a 2.5" hard drive would work
​
Finally, just plug that into another computer and you will see all your data.
This is a fairly easy process. A USB enclosure costs $10 and makes it pretty easy (like: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/).
There are plenty of free software options to clone the drive.
Are you open at all to upgrading your existing system?
I know that you said you're not into computers enough to troubleshoot for gaming, but this is the kind of project that sounds a lot harder than it is, and could be the thing that gives you the confidence to do more in the future. With $100, YouTube, a little patience, and a screwdriver, I'm sure you could do it, and you'd land on a laptop that's probably at least as good as what's available for $300.
It looks like your chassis supports up to 16GB of DDR3L RAM and a 2.5" SSD. See: https://www.crucial.com/compatible-upgrade-for/hp---compaq/hp-15-r264dx
For about $100, you could pick up 16GB of DDR3L (like https://www.newegg.com/g-skill-16gb-240-pin-ddr3-sdram/p/N82E16820231736) and a 240GB SSD (see https://www.newegg.com/team-group-240gb-cx1/p/N82E16820331556). You'd also need an enclosure to clone the SSD: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/
You'd still be working with a fairly old CPU, but it would feel good as new with the extra RAM and SSD. Plus you'd still have the touchscreen, DVD burner, etc.
To get an idea of the CPU's performance- at around $300, I like to recommend this Chuwi: https://www.amazon.com/CHUWI-HeroBook-Pro-Notebook-Lightweight/dp/B08316YSKH. It has a SLOWER CPU than yours, but 8GB of RAM and a 256GB SSD (and admittedly nicer screen). If you were to do the upgrades, you'd have a faster CPU, more RAM, similar SSD, plus a DVD burner. And you could spend the other $200 on a PS4 on OfferUp.
Something like this
hi!
I have randomly bumped into the solution of my problem, not sure it will apply to you too but it's worth giving it a try.
The other day I booted the raspi with the HDMI plugged in, then as I was plugging a usb keyboard in, I noticed on screen that every time I would slightly move the raspi, lots of I/O errors would pop up.
It took me a few minutes of 'WTF' to figure out why physical movements were crashing the system, then I noticed the USB of the SSD enclosure was a bit loose inside the raspi USB port.
I don't know why it's not loose if I plug it into my laptop, but with any of the 4 raspi ports it just won't stay in place properly. I don't know the English word for it but basically I could slightly move it up/down and left/right, as if the ports were slightly too big. And then it was very easy to pull out too, so the reason why it was crashing was the SSD enclosure randomly disconnecting.
FWIW this is the enclosure that gave me problems: https://www.amazon.nl/gp/product/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
Which I have now replaced with this cable and my raspi has been running for more than a week with no crashes, and the USB does seem very firm now: https://www.amazon.nl/gp/product/B011M8YACM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
good luck!
I don’t have a hard drive recommendation, but I recommend this enclosure combined with a 2.5” hard drive from your manufacturer of choice.
if you want to use the SSD externally, you will need an enclosure like this one https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3HNSAVMX6Z06R&dchild=1&keywords=external+ssd+enclosure&qid=1605820196&sprefix=external+ssd+en%2Caps%2C215&sr=8-3
Id probalby just get a usb3 enclosure(there cheap, like less than 20usd on amazon, id get something like this https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541267854&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+3+enclosure+2.5) Its a bit slower than thunderbolt, but much cheaper. You can boot from it just fine, and much faster than any hdd.
Then id get a 2.5 ssd like this one. https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1541267901&sr=8-4&keywords=1tb+wd+blue&dpID=41nJrjRecIL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Put the ssd in the enclosure, clone the os over to the ssd(look at a program like superduper to do this), and boot from the external ssd(can select the boot device with option at bootup) and it will be much faster.
The fusion drive is probably the root of your problem, I bet you're saturating it causing it to perform like a slow HDD. I'd get a USB 3 sled and an inexpensive SATA 6 SSD from Amazon and run your VMs from there. It'll take the IO off of your Fusion drive. As a bonus, your VMs should perform really really well.
​
This is the sled that I use: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
​
SSDs are pretty inexpensive right now as well: https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-240GB-Solid-State-SDSSDA-240G-G26/dp/B01F9G43WU
>media, writing, etc
If you're comfortable with a used laptop you can find Thinkpad T440 variants for less than $180. I write and watch YouTube with a T430 (T440 predecessor). Heck I even game (Kerbal Space Program, Half Life 2/Portal/Portal 2, and indie games) without issue. On a 7-year old laptop. Partly because Thinkpads are business-class devices, and built to higher quality standards than consumer devices.
Part of the reason I recommend Refurb/used Thinkpads is your desire to use Linux. Thinkpads have phenomenal Linux support because they're popular. Not just with Linux developers, but the sort of tech-oriented user that might want to run Linux. Older ones especially, since they've been around long enough for people to patch/fix/update things to get them working. Heck you can even set their battery charge thresholds just like you can in Windows, for better battery lifespan (not battery life).
And you wouldn't be lacking for power either; an i5-4300U (mid/entry-level CPU for the T440's; you probably won't need more power than this) is just as, or more powerful than, the Celerons in the laptops you linked (yikes!), and from what I saw when I quickly searched eBay; feature either 500GB HDD's or 180-256GB SSD's. Plus you can set up/buy one with dual-channel RAM which will help your iGPU. I'm not as sure about the amazon options.
If you're writing, especially to publish/for school, I recommend picking a T440 or T440s with a 500GB HDD, and buying a 128/256GB SSD and a HDD enclosure like this one separately. Once they all arrive; replace the HDD in the laptop with the SSD, install Linux on it, and use the 500GB HDD as part of your on-site backup (along with cloud storage and a second on-site backup solution, for redundancy). If you like to write on the go; maybe consider buying an extended battery.
I almost forgot the reason I'd recommend a Thinkpad to anyone who'll be doing a lot of writing; the on-device keyboard is legendary. You won't find a better one unless you spend thousands on a gaming monstrosity with a mechanical keyboard. Lots of laptops have an OK keyboard. Thinkpads have good keyboards.
Dude... Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-Free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized for SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2bBKFbCH34MXF
You can always give it a try buying an enclosure and using a tool like Recuva. I just had to do this after the repair guy I took my laptop to couldn't recover anything from it and I managed to pull off hundreds of GB of photos (only a small portion weren't backed up since the last time but we still didn't want to lose them) from areas that were corrupted according to the guy and "crashed the master computer" it was attached to when he tried to access it.
Well... First of all, you don't necessarily need external SSDs. They are prebuilt in enclosure and products that have premium price and Samsung is also known for having a brand price that doesn't increase the performance. That T5 500GB costs 130 euros here and performs the same as MX500 500GB which also is quite overpriced here (65 euros).
The best price/perf for Xbox is buying a normal SATA SSD and putting it in enclosure or buying an SATA to USB cable.
Here's one site where to compare value of current SSD market. What you bneed to know is that Xbox is only capable of utilizing SATA ssd speeds through USB so you're only spending more money for nothing if you aim higher than 600 MB/s read and write speeds (unless you find something that is better deal than current SATA ssds). Currently 1TB storage option is best value vise while 500GB is slighly more expensive per GB than 2TB option.
Personally I bought Crucial MX500 2TB version for Xbox so I don't have to worry about filling the storage so soon.
Try amazon smile to donate to a charity of your choice automatically at no cost to you!
https://smile.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
^^^I'm ^^^a ^^^bot ^^^and ^^^this ^^^action ^^^was ^^^performed ^^^automatically.
Oh, and regarding my mention of using the old drive as an external (so you can copy data/files from it as needed) something like this would work if this is a laptop drive (2.5")
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/
Or if it is a desktop PC and uses 3.5" drive, something like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Toolfree-External-Enclosure-Support/dp/B00GAML7OK/
Yeah if you need an enclosure you can get one cheap on Amazon. I have a few if these that work perfectly fine: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xrZIFb28RSZY4
You won't need both the thermal pad and paste. Just the paste will do perfectly. I replaced the paste on my OneX when I put my SSD in and it runs super quiet with the new paste.
Make sure you have some cotton swabs and 99% isopropyl alcohol to really thoroughly clean the old compound.
I highly recommend Arctic MX-4: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0795DP124/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yoZIFbY7KQEZX
Here is an okay one for $100:
https://www.newegg.com/adata-sd600q-960gb/p/0D9-000G-000J3?Item=9SIAJNUA6X6762
Or for better performance you can buy a Crucial MX500 for a few bucks more:
https://www.newegg.com/crucial-mx500-1tb/p/N82E16820156174
and put it in an external case like this:
https://smile.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/
If you want to spend a few extra dollars, you can get one with an enclosure. Then, you can keep it to backup stuff on the MacBook Air or use it for other projects if you desire.
Wherever you’re buying drive enclosures from you’re paying way too much...
2 of these for the drives.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/?id=rwiihacks-20
2 of these for the enclosures.
eBay hard drives and cheap enclosures are your friend.
Pretty much any HDD should work. I'd recommend getting a 2.5" internal SATA HDD and this enclosure: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/?tag=rwiihacks-20
I use a seagate internal hard drive with this enclosure: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
I have 3 of these enclosures and they're all good.
You can buy an external USB enclosure for your old 500gb drive:
Flash drives are really finicky with the wii so I recommend using these two:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B013QFRZL2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_C5hjFbDMGBY3Y
I got an old HDD from a laptop computer and put it into a $9 USB 3.0 enclosure. Cheap and effective! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_uT2iFbCQK12M4
Spinning platter hard disk drive.
It's an old Maxtor IDE drive in a Rosewill aluminum enclosure. So far it's been rock solid reliable. I trust it with all my games. And if it dies? Buy a new drive for $20.
SSD's are expensive and offer absolutely nothing in the way of either reliability or speed. The Wii just can't use that kind of speed, so the application really isn't relevant. Hard drives are the popular choice.
An SSD won't be as reliable as a hard drive, either, because flash storage just can't take as much of a beating when it comes to read/write cycles as a good ol' spinning hard drive. And when playing games from a drive, it's very demanding.
I would recommend you get this enclosure with this drive. /u/WiiExpertise highly recommends this enclosure as he has 2 of them and they've never failed him.
I personally prefer enclosures with external power as you'll never have to worry about them getting enough power, but to each their own.
Seems good. You could use a usb drive enclosure like this one on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RDvuFbMV1E7NS
Here's a couple places to check out.
GPIO pinout:
https://wiki.odroid.com/odroid-n2/hardware/expansion_connectors
The wiring PI chart below will allow you to convert Pi compatible shields/hats.
PCB schematics and various other specs to 3d print cases if you want. UART serial layout is on that page too.
https://wiki.odroid.com/odroid-n2/hardware
Here's a general linux learning course I suggest you checkout!
Next step is do you want to run Android or a desktop Linux?
You can either buy the EMMC/SDcard preloaded or buy your own and flash it with a EMMC or micro SD card to USB adapter.
dd from a command line or etcher will work.
Images to flash:
If you want a general computing setup check out the official ubuntu LTS
https://wiki.odroid.com/odroid-n2/os_images/ubuntu/20200229
The learning curve is the same as raspbian but you get that pure vanilla ubuntu experience so it will feel just like x86 and also you can request HardKernel to add device support in the forums for this image for peripherals.
The official AOSP image is here (choose 64-bit)
https://wiki.odroid.com/odroid-n2/os_images/android/android#tab__bit_android1
You can also request adding peripheral device support to this image too.
Magisk will allow you to root your android and stealth from apps that dont like it.
https://forum.odroid.com/viewtopic.php?f=178&t=34063&sid=9184f25358c1b9fba6a1ff3e327d7ef9
You can install f-droid to get FOSS programs and theres also aurora store on f-droid to download google store apps without signing up.
Petitboot is a tool that can be flashed to the internal NAND storage to allow a boot menu for multiple distros or other complex boot setups like chainloading or network drive booting.
https://wiki.odroid.com/odroid-n2/os_images/petitboot (only downside is NAND can only be flashed from SD card while its toggled on)
The benefit though is if you boot your system off EMMC or USB external drives you can't have anything corrupt or infect your NAND even if you use the SD card as storage because the toggle switch physically disconnects the trace to the write pin of the NAND.
Now for community images!
CoreElec is based off LibreElec but specifically tailored for amlogic SoCs which the ODROID is.
LibreElec is a distro oriented around Kodi is the distro is only enough minimally required to boot kodi.
Similar to GamerOS but it's intended for HTPC instead of gaming.
Great for TVs with a airmouse remote!
Android 10 LineageOS
https://forum.odroid.com/viewtopic.php?f=178&t=36453&sid=9184f25358c1b9fba6a1ff3e327d7ef9
AOSP but Android TV variation
https://forum.odroid.com/viewtopic.php?f=178&t=35463&sid=9184f25358c1b9fba6a1ff3e327d7ef9
If you want to boot from USB or use external storage for movies/games I would suggest getting a external enclosure with "UASP" which allows USB to communicate at a faster rate than normal.
Some enclosures are janky though because they don't fully implement UASP protocol because they cheaped out on the controllers so I suggest buying off amazon so you can get free returns or look at reviews.
These for example:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/
https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-USB3-0-External-Enclosure-Supported/dp/B01M08LCXW/
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Enclosure-Adapter-Housing/dp/B06XWRRMYX/
If you are more comfortable and want something more intermediate and customizable either Armbian or ALARM will have newer kernels and more performance if you want to run a server.
https://www.armbian.com/odroid-n2/
In general I'd read all of the official odroid wiki as there's lots of info.
HDMI should work off the bat but if your TV is some strange resolution you can edit the boot.ini on another computer via micro SD card adapter or EMMC adapter or via serial or ssh.
It resides on the root directory of the EMMC or SDcard.
Here's a example of the boot.ini
setenv hdmimode "1080p60hz"
You would just change the resolution manually like setenv hdmimode "480p60hz"
There's various other settings in the boot.ini like reserving more or less ram for the GPU and even disabling it for headless mode, over/under clocking the two CPUs (big and little) all of the kind of things you might see in a simplified BIOS.
Adding a power button! (any type of momentary switch with 2 legs will work. The extra wires here are for LEDs to have "heartbeat" which blinks when its powered on, or you can have it blink for wifi, or just a solid light)
https://wiki.odroid.com/odroid-n2/application_note/gpio/gpio_key_wakeup
PS: there's also analog video output via the 3.5mm jack if you have a CRT tv for retro games if you get a cable like this and change a flag in the boot.ini
The power barrel connector is a inner(positive) diameter 2.1mm and outer(negative) diameter 5.5mm 12v and 2amps or above.
If you are running multiple drives you will need more amps or get a external enclosure that has a extra port for power input from a wall adapter. (make sure it still has UASP though!)
These can be bought with "5.5x2.1mm" on ebay if you want to get your own power supply or get some adapters to cut up for a ATX power supply or to re-use a laptop adapter.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=%225.5x2.1mm%22&rt=nc&LH_BIN=1
The retailer I use for all of my SBC purchaces besides just ODROID is from Ameridroid (they serve canada too) they are official redistributors but check the hardkernel site for a redistributor for your country.
So all those fancy external hard drives you see in stores and on amazon mostly do two things, and upcharge you for it.
The first thing they are trying to do is dress up the Drive in a more appealing package. Whether they're wrapping it in plastic, or metal, or fabric- they're trying to make this boring looking thing seem somewhat attractive.
The second thing they do is convert the I/O (input/output) into something more consumer friendly. Drives (mostly) use a standard known as "SATA." Some computers will actually have those plugs on them and you can just connect the drive with a SATA cable. Buuuut, most computers don't- manufacturers are much more likely to include USB plugs if they include any plugs at all, these days. So, that's the second thing the external hard drives you can buy off the shelf do- they're basically fancy SATA to USB converters.
So if you take a fancy external drive and snap the plastic off you have one of the boring SSDs inside, and you paid double for it, maybe a little less than double if you're lucky.
If you're budget conscious you can save money a couple of ways, knowing all that:
If you still want your external to look visually appealing or you want to be able to use one of the many USB cables you have laying around you can look for an "SSD Enclosure."
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
If you click through the pictures you can see it's just an SSD plopped into it- it has a nice LED light to tell you when it's working, and it has a clean simple look. As a bonus you can use a regular USB cable. They have thousands of different looks, and they all work with different cables. So you can get one that you love the look of and works with cables you already have- and they're all cheap! So the money you save you can put towards MORE STORAGE SPACE! Which is the MAIN THING you want out of a storage drive, right?
The even cheaper and less aesthetic choice is a SATA-to-USB Cable, like the one I liked above. Most SSDs aren't pretty but they're not ugly! (Check out this Samsung: https://cnet3.cbsistatic.com/img/jqbgL0YDW6BbovVdgkMVrGj84m4=/868x488/2014/07/08/2f04d340-8912-4579-bb95-284b4283b7dd/samsungssd850pro-2.jpg) If you get a SATA-to-USB Cable you can have a drawer full of SSDs or HDDs (or a backpack full if you're a mobile producer/DJ) and plug them in whenever you need to use them.
Speed-wise it's not going to be as fast as an internal storage drive but it's going to be just as fast as any other external storage drive- the main reason they'll all be as fast as each other is because they'll all be connecting to your computer via USB and most SSDs are FASTER than USB can handle (which is why they use SATA.) So it doesn't matter if you buy an $80 500GB or a $90 1TB, if you're connecting them via USB the speeds they can really go doesn't matter cause USB is the speed limit, so you mind as well go for more space.
If you want more speed than what you can get over USB (which is honestly pretty fast) your only real option is to replace your internal drive.
If you're cool with 500GB and just want to save money, I would get an enclosure or a SATA-to-USB cable and a drive like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XZLN9KM
>I'm gonna need some device that I can put the removed harddrive into that can read it or something. Preferably a piece of hardware I can plug into my current computer and then transfer files over. Thing is, I don't have a clue if such a device exists
It's called a USB enclosure, you'll either need a SATA or IDE one. See this image for reference. It'd be the 2.5" size. They're generally under $10, and you can find them in a plethora of styles. It will turn your internal hard drive into a USB External Hard Drive. This is the best selling one on Amazon.
This one is great - Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_ITEROXlfjRxZE
Grab a sata to USB enclosure and format it as fat32 Similar to this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_wVWXDbJEPKXXT
Just went to check and it looks like I left it at a client. I think it was a little plastic Sabrent pos that looked exactly like this - https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
You're still going to pay about $50-100 over the going rate for an SSD to get an external one. 2TB SSDs start around $200, and combined units cost $250+. I'd go with a company with known SSD lines such as Samsung, Sandisk, Western Digital, etc. They are probably using a variant of an existing drive they sell in the enclosures.
Or you can spend $20-50 on an enclosure and a drive and build your own, the upside being that you have more options on the drive inside, the downside being more wasted packaging and probably a less compact size (unless you go m.2) these are the brands amazon sells I'd recommend:
For 2.5" SATA3 SSDs:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-External-Hard-Drive-Enclosure/dp/B00XLB0EOW/
https://www.amazon.com/Vantec-NexStar-Enclosure-Aluminum-NST-271C31-BK/dp/B072YLWP4Z/
For M.2 NVMe SSDs:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-EC-NVME-Aluminum-Enclosure-Nvme/dp/B07K4TZQ7D/
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-NVMe-Enclosure-PCIe-SSDs/dp/B07PZXZL3Y/
Negligible, I bought a 250GB drive and a USB caddy. The idea is whatever I'm currently playing is installed on the SSD.
The 250GB is enough for a few games or a couple of really big ones. (I had RDR2 on there for a bit which was a big space eater)
Probably about £50. (I'd have to dig through my orders to get the prices)
Larger SSDs I use on my pc and laptop.
You don't have to replace your drive, you can just put the SSD in a caddy if you don't mind permanently using up a USB port. That way you've still got the storage of the original PS4 drive for anything that doesn't need the SSD speed. (indies etc)
EDIT:
For example, usb caddy £7.89.
Samsung 250GB SSD £49.59
Canada eh? I’ll trade you an external ssd for a bunch of “All Dressed” chips, what you say? Anyways, I found a better ssd that is showing a $5 off coupon so it’s more like $60 before tax.
https://www.amazon.ca/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
https://www.amazon.ca/ADATA-Ultimate-Su800-Internal-ASU800SS-256GT-C/dp/B01K8A2A0E
Also, kinda serious about the chip trade, I park right next to the bridge to Canada everyday ��
A readily available enclosure such as this allows an SSD to be converted into a USB storage drive. It just snaps together and requires no tools. Internally a hard disk drive is very complicated and has physical metal disks that spin 5400 or 7200 times a minute - a single speck of dust or slight shock can throw it off balance and ruin it resulting in total data loss. A solid state drive has no moving parts at all and as a result is immensely more durable.
>For about $100 you can get a quality 1TB SSD (a thousand gigs). Even less for a still decent one. These can be installed inside the computer, or in an external <strong>enclosure</strong> and used just like a Flash Drive / External Hard Drive. Using it externally keeps the computer free of clutter, and lets her take the files to any computer.
Get a SSD. Theyre alot faster and you can buy a 2.5 inch adapter and screw that ssd into that. Works great. Like this for example https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5ufRDb8MK7B4W
I have the 860 Evo 1tb and bought the cheapest external case that Amazon had lol no tools required. Plug and play.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oUNBDbHGD85C3
Depends on if your laptop supports 2 drives or not. If not, I would recommend buying a cheap enclosure or just a USB adapter. Then you can use it as an external backup after you are done.
Something like this(below) may be an option.
Not too sure if this OK to post here, as it's regarding a laptop, but some knowledge here would be helpful.
​
I recently purchased an MSI GS65 Stealth for both Uni and gaming. It has a relatively small drive, at 250gb, but I would preferably like to keep the internal drive mainly for productivity data. I was thinking of purchasing a 250gb ssd and enclosure and keep that reserved for my games. I would also keep maybe 1 or 2 games that I am currently playing at the time on the internal memory so I don't have to plug something in every time I want to play.
​
This solution would costs ~£35, whilst an external ssd would cost ~£50. I also wouldn't want to install an internal ssd, as I don't particularly want to void the warranty just yet.
​
This would mean I would install steam on the internal drive and sometimes run games from the external drive. I don't think read/write speeds would be an issue, due to usb 3.1/c connectivity, but are there any other issues I could run into? Or is there another solution that may be better?
​
For reference, please see the below links:
MSI GS65 Stealth: https://www.msi.com/Laptop/GS65-Stealth-Thin-8RE/Specification
Enclosure I am considering: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00OJ3UJ2S?pf_rd_p=330fbd82-d4fe-42e5-9c16-d4b886747c64&pf_rd_r=21AN8XGCNVGGWXPR04N5
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Any help would be most appreciated.
It’s a Sabrent, it was under $10. Here’s the link:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_3aU7CbVSD95GK
Works great. You can also just use a SATA to USB3.0 adapter if you don’t care about the looks
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011M8YACM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_4cU7Cb5QRX4CM
Yup. You just need an external enclosure and a cheap SSD. I own that one and I'm 100% it works on my PS4 Pro.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ plug and play with windows and grab any files you need
I was about to say "Oh shit, I think you probably have to reinstall", since we can't be sure what files you deleted (unless you remember), but then I found this: https://support.avg.com/SupportArticleView?l=en&urlname=Disabling-AVG-when-Windows-cannot-start
Might be worth trying!
I guess you already know this, but in future, if you have to delete files to change config, try just renaming them instead (so AVG.exe becomes AVG_copy.exe or so). Then if it breaks anything, you could access your drive via USB (e.g. using a USB enclosure) and manually move the files back into place.
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Get one of these, remove your hard drive from your laptop and insert it inside the enclosure kit... then plug it into another PC and copy your data off! Also purchase another drive (SSD is recommended) and install it. Did you have Windows 10 installed?
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Edit: This seems cheaper.
If you haven't bought anything I highly recommend considering this enclosure and popping in a cheap SSD (something like this). You gain the majority of the speed benefits compared to installing internally with none of the hassle of swapping the internal drive or having to worry about buying a massive SSD to keep everything you've got installed. I install whatever I'm currently playing on the SSD and swap out when necessary.
Additionally, I hadn't known about the issue with Bluetooth interference but I've looked it up and understand, if that's a priority for you it might be better to just install a decent sized HDD. That said, you could consider an FPS Strikepack and go wired, it's basically a controller addon that adds paddles (and programmable macros but I don't mess with that, might be a ban risk in multiplayer to use full macros), but it also stops the controller from using Bluetooth and makes the official controller work over USB. Depends on your needs and the types of games you play, but the thing has been invaluable to me and I'd recommend it to basically anyone.
This one’s been working well for me: Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PeVlCbASQ5G7Q
Yes, put it in a 2.5" SATA USB housing and connect it to a mac. Example.
If you do need to get another one, this is the drive enclosure I got. With my Samsung 860 it's made everything load about 80% faster. It's also made Star Wars BF2 incredibly speedy loading in.
Would this enclosure work?
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GIiCAbD9PH7KH
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EDIT: Also one more thing if I may ask. Is the only difference between the 250gb and the 500gb the storage? Will performance be the same?
Fair point! You should most definitely make a back up, or just put the old HDD in one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1532122821&sr=8-2&keywords=hdd+enclosure, and as long as file vault was NOT enabled you will still have access too all your old files :)
To answer your question, here is an actual link to product that you can get to help you access and retrieve data from your 2.5' SATA drive.
I got mine from ebay but here’s one from amazon
Is there any advantage to buying one of these versus buying an enclosure?
I bought this and this on someones recommendation on this sub
I put the drive in the case and plugged it in, but i never was asked to format it. I even went to system storage and i couldn't find it
Theres a blue light on the case that turns on when i turn my xbox on, so it's at least reading it sort of
SSD + drive enclosure
Not internally. You could do this with the 2.5" drive though:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
basically just converting it to an external USB drive.
what about a laptop ssd in an enclosure like this one : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
would that run faster than the stock ps4 hdd?
I have two of these. Worked rather well.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
500gb Samsung 850 Evo, using a UART USB 3 enclosure.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
SSD is way better than hdd
> Is there a specific USB adapter/enclosure that would work?
That's really hard to say. Lots of technical details in the link below, but the bottom line is you have three options. Try other USB enclosures, connect via SATA on a desktop computer or try to modify the MBR with a series of complicated commands (chances of losing all data are good with this option).
https://superuser.com/questions/679725/how-to-correct-512-byte-sector-mbr-on-a-4096-byte-sector-disk
Is there a Microcenter or BestBuy nearby? You could probably buy a USB enclosure and return it if it fails. Otherwise, I would probably order something like this:
This or anything similar will do the job.
My laptop just died on me and I'm currently looking for a way to pull files from the HDD and move them to my desktop. I've been told that an enclosure should be able to handle this, but don't know where to start (other than what they are, I'm pretty unfamiliar with enclosures). Does anyone have any recommendations for a specific enclosure? I've been browsing Amazon, but have no idea what the difference is between something like this and something like this.
If it helps, the HDD is coming from a Lenovo Y510P.
get a USB external enclosure connect the new drive in it. Then clone the internal drive to the external drive. Then swap them, when you are all done you'll have a 160GB External HDD to use as you please.
It depends on the external. Some, like my WD My Passport Ultras have a USB3.0 controller on the hard drive, so you couldn't swap in a larger capacity internal SATA drive. The only way to know is to open up the external (back up first!) and look. Sometimes the screws are under rubber feet, sometimes just gently pry open.
Or, you can buy a drive and an enclosure
damn, if you had an enclosure you could just do it right there on your laptop
Another option is to remove only your hard drive, put it in a USB enclosure, and then connect it to your wife's mac as an external drive. Here's one from amazon for 13 bucks:
You want to make sure you get the SATA -> USB enclosure. Your hard drive will be a SATA connection type, and USB will allow you to connect it to your computer externally. I use this case. There aren't many Firewire enclosures that I know of.
If your PC wont boot, you cant power your hard drive. what you need to do is take the hard drive out, and put it in an external enclosure for your Ubuntu laptop to read.
here is a helpful video showing you exactly how to access your hard drive.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ab3F4yI6G0o
After doing this, get an enclosure. You can probably get one at your local electronics store. If not, then get one on amazon. I believe mac mini uses a 2.5 inch HDD, but you should double check.
this one should work nicely.
I don't know a ton about them, to be honest, but a quick search reveals this to be well received. http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1428260608&sr=1-4&keywords=SSD+enclosure Someting similar to this should work.
You just need to get some sort of drive enclosure. Something like this. I use it with my iMac every day. Hasn't given me any problems.
fair enough
As for your question, I very nearly got an SSD last payday but as I am on an X I decided I didn't need it and got a 4K tv instead.
It will be cheaper for you to get an External case for an internal SSD and buying an internal SSD to fit in it.
A case like this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/?coliid=I2XJWC89JAYSO2&colid=26Y94U6JP79W9&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
With an SSD like this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0784SLQM6/?coliid=I7WS62APTUVY7&colid=26Y94U6JP79W9&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
This is a 500GB internal SSD, you can probably get a smaller one if you wanted for cheaper.