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SABRENT USB 3.0 Sharing Switch for Multiple Computers and Peripherals LED Device Indicators (USB-SW30)?
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45 reviews of this product found across Reddit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074TYDJK2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the one I use - its nothing fancy but gets the job done. I have a usb hub (with mouse and keyboard plugged into it). USB hub is plugged into the input of the switch. One output goes to my personal computer the other into my work laptop dock. You just press the button on top to switch. There are better ones but this one is pretty cheap and easy to use - if you have a hub that is.
So it turned out there was an acceptable solution
If you want a KVM switch but don't need the V, a switch that just transfers USB signals, those are much cheaper than switches that also transfer the video signal.
So my setup currently is USB-C to the work laptop, Displayport to the gaming desktop, and all devices connected to the monitor, which then connects to a USB switch, which then switches between the computers.
I purchased this device for fifteen euros, it works great.
I use a USB switch to share my Hel between my gaming desktop and work laptop. This lets me use the mic on both as well as the DAC. Cutover/device detection is within about 5 seconds of pushing the button. You could do the same with Fulla too.
I use this USB switcher https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Computers-Peripherals-Indicators-USB-SW30/dp/B074TYDJK2/ combined with a USB hub (which happens to be built into my monitor). The main downside is the chunky USB-B cables, I have three going into it since my monitor hub also uses that.
KVM would do monitor input as well but there didn't seem to be a cheap/good option when I was researching. Monitor input will change on its own on shutdown/sleep or is easy enough to do manually, so I don't mind not having that.
way to make me feel poor lol, I use this one for $14 then manually switch the input on my monitor
I use the Sabrent USB 3.0 Sharing Switch to connect my q1 to PC and work laptop, simple button to switch between them. Works well for my use although the input cables are USB 3.0 to USB B (going into the switch) which is odd and means the cables aren't as easily replaced.
I use a similar setup and have been using this switch for over a year now, which is connected to a usb hub with other peripherals. It works wonderfully with just one click of a button and a second of patience.
SABRENT USB 3.0 Sharing Switch for Multiple Computers and Peripherals LED Device Indicators (USB-SW30) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B074TYDJK2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_V6CNGSYPVGJ65A30FKDF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I use a similar setup and have been using this switch for over a year now, which is connected to a usb hub with other peripherals. It works wonderfully by just one click of a button and a couple seconds of patience.
SABRENT USB 3.0 Sharing Switch for Multiple Computers and Peripherals LED Device Indicators (USB-SW30) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B074TYDJK2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_V6CNGSYPVGJ65A30FKDF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Are you using the RPi to run emulators or something like that? In that case it sounds like you have two hosts (the PS4 and the RPi), which you can't connect to simultaneously.
I wonder if you could find a USB hub that lets you toggle between multiple hosts. Then you could connect the Brook to the hub, and the hub to the RPi and to the external USB port (which connects to the PS4). Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Computers-Peripherals-Indicators-USB-SW30/dp/B074TYDJK2/ref=sr_1_14?crid=30DODPLJEVGS1&keywords=peripheral+sharing+switch&qid=1649258748&sprefix=peripheral+sharing+switch%2Caps%2C236&sr=8-14 But then the question is, how do you expose the switching button nicely?
I used to do this with an CSL Elite connected to a USB-switch to switch between PS4 and Xbox, worked fine! I used this switch; https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Computers-Peripherals-Indicators-USB-SW30/dp/B074TYDJK2/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=G22KXG2OL0KG&keywords=sabrent+usb+switch&qid=1644213033&sprefix=sabrent+usb+switch%2Caps%2C194&sr=8-4
I have had the same setup early last year, only with PS4 and Xbox One X. For this I used this USB switch;
The USB for PS4 went straight into the PS4 and the USB for Xbox went through a Drivehub. I’ve mounted the USB switch on my rig so I could switch it easily.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B074TYDJK2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have this little guy mounted underneath my desk. Yeah auto-switching would of been nice. But since I'm mostly in PbP, it wouldn't know which monitor I want to use. So this is the next best thing.
USB B to A line from CRG9 connects to the USB A side, and then 2 USB B to A come out, one going into my personal rig, the other into work laptop.
Now you can have both machines running at the same time and switch between the two but have one set of peripherals.
I have this Sabrent one, had it for about a year and a half and no major issues so far. I do occasionally have to unplug and replug but it's pretty infrequent, like, maybe every couple of months? And I'm not even sure whether it's the switch or one of the computers being awkward.
Obviously this one is only two ports, but they seem to have larger options available.
>An 8 TB external drive that has the right speed amount and all the other requirements for PlayStation 4 and a brand that’s reputable with good reviews and warranty is well over $250 and a 8 TB Internal drive is like $150 for one that would have the same type of specs and speed ratings as the external one I was talking about for around $250 and the cost of a basic enclosure with a fan is like 20 bucks
A cursory search on Amazon shows 8TB external drives from Seagate and Western Digital going for ~$150-$200, and 8TB internal drives from Seagate and Western Digital going for ~$150-$200. There are some sales on right now where some internal drives are discounted more than their external counterparts, but at MSRP the price difference is usually about $20 either way. External drives tend to go on sale more often than internal drives, with WD externals in particular being a popular source of cheap high-capacity drives.
>my real goal was to have the Wii hooked up to the hard drive but also have a USB plugged in to my computer on my desk just next to my TV stand where the wii is so if the wii wasn’t on with it also being plugged into the computer i could move files on and off of it without having to change the plug or move the hard drive or to have the hard drive on the desk and have an extension USB cord to the Wii and same concept just different hard drive location
There are no external enclosures that work the way you're describing here. You could use a selector switch like this to switch the drive between the Wii and PC if moving the plug is a hassle.
if you only broke the usb port, can you just get a cheap usb switch. might be annoying to have to switch two things, but they're fairly cheap. this one's 15$ from a quick amazon search.
https://smile.amazon.com/Sabrent-Computers-Peripherals-Indicators-USB-SW30/dp/B074TYDJK2
In my opinion, I wouldn't make something that has the potential to be used wrong, such as your cable idea. If someone accidentally turns on the other device, you don't want any ports to end up fried.
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I would get a commercially made USB switch, which is just as it sounds, a switch to switch which device gets the keyboard/mouse input.
As you don't need audio or video, a cheap USB switch would do the job. Something like this would do the job nicely paired with a hub, or you can search Amazon for "USB Switch" if you need an option with multiple ports.
Do your monitors autoswitch input based on the signals received?
If so, something like a cheap USB switch (like this one) with your peripherals connected to a hub (maybe one built into your monitor, if you have one) might be an answer.
I used to use a system just like this when I ran both a desktop PC and a Macbook from the same monitor, keyboard and mouse.
I use this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TYDJK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_.AlRFb1BN8C3D to switch between xbox one x and another switch. The second switch is used for 2 PCs and swaps keyboard, mouse, and the headset. Plug xbox and pc into back ports, headset into front port and can switch which one works by pressing the button on top.
I only found this out yesterday, so glad that I can own 1 headset to use across both consoles.
I’ve also ordered a USB switch so I can just press a button to swap between both consoles.
I got this from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TYDJK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FSgNFb3ACA0AJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
and it works great! Buying another actually. I have a cheap 4 port usb 3.0 splitter from microcenter plugged into it for keyboard, mouse, mic, and webcam. Any 4 way 3.0 usb splitter should do.
Just spitballing here, but if I was to wire up a USB KVM switch between the PS4/5 and the dongle (like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TYDJK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZCjKFb0AX3X6W), with one output half to the console, and the other output half unplugged/plugged into only power, would that do the trick?
My guess is it would keep power constant on the dongle, but disconnect the data lines. I’m unsure, however, if the dongle would gracefully handle the reconnection when the switch is toggled.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TYDJK2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This is what I use. I have a similar setup, a Macbook pro for work and a Windows desktop for everything else. I have a USB hub coming off this one with my keyboard, mouse and webcam. Switching is easy between the computers with this setup.
I guess try this though, I googled some words for you.
I use this switch for swapping my Hel between my work laptop and personal desktop.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074TYDJK2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Edit: The DAC can only have 1 or the other as an input at any given time.
There are a lot of approaches.
The most basic is this one, which lets you push a button and swap the output:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TYDJK2?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_XXQQW8E11573GTVSVQ08
There are multiple software solutions as well that would run on both computers and share inputs between them, but I don't recommend these as your job's IT policy can put the kibosh on those overnight. They also sometimes add a bit of lag to the inputs.
Lastly, you could go with something more complex, like a KVM switch, but that's a bit overkill since all you want to do is split a USB peripheral or two, instead of video outputs as well.
Sabrent USB 3.0 Sharing Switch... https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B074TYDJK2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You should be able to find something similar in your local Amazon or computer store.
I’m using it to switch between the PS5 and the PC.
The USB switch is Sabrent. The HDMI switches were just store brand from my local Microcenter.
>I've seen some people say that the Wii u can only read 32gb on SD cards - is this true
Yes, the Wii U can only read up to 32 GB on any given SD card. But that doesn't mean you have to go out and get an SD card that's exactly 32 GB though-- the Wii U can read any SD card that's formatted to FAT32-- but it will only register and read 32 GB of said card. For instance, if you had a 256GB card lying around you can still use that card-- but the Wii u will only read 32GB of that 256Gb card.
>and if so is there a recommended HDD to buy.
~~Not any that I know of~~ Scratch that-- I just remembered that Nintendo put out their own list on what HDDs you should use with the Wii U. Just note that if you find these too expensive, they aren't the only HDDs that are compatible with the Wii U.
So, if you don't want to use those, I'll give you 3 tips to know when dealing with HDDs for the Wii U:
- Any HDD you buy cannot be bigger than 2TB because that's the max the Wii U can read
- If you can, try to find an HDD that doesn't rely on power through their USB cables or the device they're connected to. If not, you'll need to buy a Y cable to go with the HDD (more on that later)
- If you're planning on using the HDD to store things for the vWii (the Wii inside of the Wii U) you'll need to buy a separate HDD for it because of the way the Wii U deals with HDDs.
- More on this, whenever you put an HDD into a Wi U, it will reformat the HDD to its own special format. Thanks to this, each formatting is 100% unique to that Wii U, which means that whatever HDD you format to the Wii U can only be used with that particular Wii U. The formatting is so strict and unique that you can't even use the formatted drive on other Wii Us (much less your computer or anything else that's not a Wii U)! This also means that the Wii U's formatting is so restrictive that it won't even work with its own vWii!
- For convenience purposes, if you are looking to have an HDD for the vWii and another for the Wii U, buy a USB port toggle switch to switch from one HDD to the other (alongside a y cable of course). It should look something like this (note that I just googled searched "USB toggle switch" on amazon and clicked the first option lol. So don't actually buy it if you didn't do any prior research!), or use Ustealth to hide the vWii HDD from the Wii U. Or, you can do it the old fashioned way and just plug in the vWii HDD when you switch to Wii mode on the Wii U.
>Also I heard something about the Wii u needing an extra cable to power the usb or something (a y cable?) could someone also explain this?
Yeah, basically there was a hardware oversight in the Wii U that made it so the USB ports on the Wii U don't deliver enough wattage to whatever is connected to it. While you could try to use the Wii U without a Y cable or a self-sufficient HDD, you probably won't get an experience you'll enjoy (expect read/write speeds to be slower than a grandma with arthritis and wooden legs going to the supermarket by foot. Also, expect the HDD to suddenly stop working from time to time because it isn't getting enough power to sustain itself). So yeah, either get a Y cable or an HDD that's self-sustaining.
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And yeah, that's about it. Hope this helps! And of course, tell me if you have any questions.
One of the solutions I found was to use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074TYDJK2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
But that would require two of those, which isn't ideal
This is what I got, just have m+kb on a little splitter and replaced the button with an MX Clear
You could use a USB switch that you connect to both the PC and PS4, and then plug the hard drive into that.
I use a USB switch to swap my Hel between my desktop and work laptop without having to shuffle cables. I put a blob of blutak under it to keep it steady on the desk, otherwise the switch is light enough the cables lift/twist it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074TYDJK2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1&fpw=alm
My monitors have a button that takes you to the menu where you toggle between inputs - it's less tedious than it sounds. As far as sharing USB devices, I haven't done it yet, but it can be accomplished with a USB switch and USB hub like these:
Alternatively, if you want fewer pieces/steps, you could use a KVM like this:
I have the same rig, PS5 and PC, so I ended up getting a usb switch instead.
You need a USB A/B switch since it looks like that soundbar draws both power and data over the USB connection. You should confirm your console recognizes the soundbar as an output device before ordering a switch/spending any additional money on this project. Rated power draw on that soundbar is .5A @ 5v so you'll be working with something less than 2.5W total for speaker power from that soundbar.
If you're happy with the sound output and the soundbar is confirmed working with your console, then go ahead and get a USB switch.
Here's a USB 3.0 switch I use to swap my DAC/AMP between work computer and personal computer. You can inject power if needed via a USB charger and a micro USB cable.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074TYDJK2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I wonder if something like this would help...
Sabrent USB 3.0 Sharing Switch for Multiple Computers and Peripherals LED Device Indicators (USB-SW30) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TYDJK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kWPEDb41BG0J5
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Computers-Peripherals-Indicators-USB-SW30/dp/B074TYDJK2 Im not sure what your looking for but I think this is a usb c switch
Hmm. I got the usb 3.0 one and it doesnt work. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074TYDJK2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Upon looking, they appear to be usb 2.0. Maybe i need to swap to the one you have? :(
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