This product was mentioned in
with an average of
Most likely its an issue with the mic itself, but if you want to try anything before you return it id get a little usb sound adapter, they are like 5-10 bucks and often work better than onboard soundcards. This guy is personally my favorite, and its what I use for my modmic.
Unfortunately RMAs can be a little tricky depending on the manufacturer. Some manufacturers might ask you to ship the board back first, after which they will send you a new one, whereas others may just send you a new board straight up. Depending on where you bought the parts (e.g. Amazon), you could just order a new board, wait for it to arrive, then return the old one as defective.
Alternatively, you could buy a cheapo USB sound card like this if your friend's happens to work. Your motherboard will still be broken, but at least you'll have sound - might not be worth the RMA if a $7 part is enough to bandaid it, but that's up to you.
I own both the M40x and the Sony MDR-V6.
For portable use, i wouldn't recommend either of them. I would go for a V-moda XS all day long. However, for just using them at your desk, the M40's are incredible. They aren't the easiest to drive out of a weak smartphone preamp (like my note 8), and i do think they benefit from even a cheap fiio amp, but off a computer they should be fine. Sound is amazing for the price. I reach for them over my $200 pair of headphones a lot of the time. Pick up one of these to use as a cheap sound card - [link]
As for the Sony - i honestly wouldn't buy them for music. Yes they are very detailed, but IMO are very harsh to listen to. They're cold, sterile, and unforgiving to the point where most music on them is unlistenable. Certain genres seem to work well on them IMO like singer-songwriter and acoustic stuff.
But to answer your question - just buy the M40x's and don't think twice about it. Perfect starter headphones.
>Syba USB 2.0 24-Bit 96KHz DAC
I could try this, but for the other, I already have a similar product that eliminates the static, just not the buzz :/
What I have here
OK, other than the drivers (which you have already tried) I can't think of anything else to try. So I would probably just get a USB adapter like this one and not even use the onboard audio.
That's the adapter.
My PS4 is hooked up to a TV and yes it does have an optical port. No my Modmic is not connected to my controller, when I made my purchases, I figured all I would need is this . When i plug the modmic directly into the controller, the console doesnt recognize it as an input device only a output device, i can not use it when it is plugged into the controller.
I'm not too sure how you would check it. I only know of this issue because I have had a similar one-- Antilon Modmic basically requires an audio usb adapter (similar to the one linked below) because it draws more power than a typical motherboard would like to provide.
My mic came with one. When I don't use it my voice in Discord is also very low volume.
I cannot guarantee 100% that this will work, but it may be worth a try. If budgets are tight you can always return it, and it is very possible that a local store near you may have them in stock if you do not wish to wait for shipping.
Absolutely not. If you can spare a couple of bucks and buy one of these USB audio cards, they would work just fine
in my experience, macs have realllly shitty power isolation in regards to audio. an interface is the only way to really solve the issue. you can pick up a super cheap usb audio device on amazon
Plugs in the front if the PC are notoriously awful. Everyone is recommending way to high end for you. You just need a 8 dollar dongle soundcard. I've fixed this problem for 4 people with them. Note that this fixes the headphones issue. Your speakers may require a DAC to function properly, but 95% of headphones don't.
I have 4 of these, they've all worked fine.
I wasn't able to figure out how to playback through the center channel output under Win10.
In the end, I did what I usually do on a hackintosh, which is to give up on audio and use one of these Sabrent USB dongles instead.
These things work well enough for me. No complaints.
Yeah thats all i need. The headphones are fine. Ive upped volume on it to check as well. Just the mic has EMI i suppose
Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) [link]
I'm using this: [link]
Makes no difference on my machine whether it's plugged in or not
Tried front panel and direct to motherboard USB connections and using front panel and direct to MB 3.5mm connections.
A sound card is a DAC btw... just internal so it's still subject to electrical interference.
You do not need a DAC or amp to fix this. This $7 usb adapter will do the trick.
Try putting your mic into one of those cheap usb dongles
This is what I posted in another thread discussing this:
Just verified this with a FX-audio X6 plugged into PC with optical cable, and the mic plugged into a USB dongle into a USB hub right next to the DAC/amp.
Planning on writing something up to document these findings, but the key is using a DAC that uses optical input and dedicated AC adapter, while plugging the mic into one of those $5 amazon USB dongles.
You also cannot have the USB cable plugged into the DAC at all, even if it's not connected to anything. The moment you plug it in, the ground loop buzzing comes out loud and clear.
Hope this helps
It really sounds like RFI but you said you tried different microphones, so I doubt it since most of them have grounding.
What I suggest you to try is an USB microphone or even an USB sound card (they're actually pretty fucking good, audio quality can increase a lot using them), I've used this one for a long time and it's still good but some reviews are saying that the new models are slightly worse (I would just buy it and test if you can fix your problems)
No, I am not 100% that audiocard will work. I have never heard of the brand before and I have never used that specific item. I do however know that external audio cards/adapters work in general. I have a old steelseries one i got with a headset from like 10 years ago that I still use from time to time.
But the 186 reviews on amazon seem to say it works fine. And if it only is the physical damage to the audio jack thats the issue. A adapter like that should be a decent workaround compared to getting it repaired most likely. I doubt the repair would cost 8 bucks.
Now I don't know where you live, or how stores work there, or if you even have any stores close to you. But perhaps buying one in a store nearby if you can find it, to test if it works with the option of returning it could work? No idea how returns work where you are based so.
There are also other models like [link]
Or such, with almost 4.5k reviews. Should do the job quite well i imagine.
I am however not a fan of give 100% guarantees on something I have never used before myself, as you might understand. But as long as the device functions as advertised, and your headphones work just fine. Then it should work.
So i just purchased the sennheiser hd 598 cs headphones and i think they're absolutely magnificent, but i'm hearing a static interference noise coming through constantly from either 3.5mm port that gets worse/unbearable when i enter an online game like league or overwatch. I did research on this and tried everything from moving around all the wires on my set up, moving the location of the modem, fiddling with all the USBs and other connections to my PC, and messing with some of the sound settings. I can tell a big portion of the interference is coming from my new g602 logitech wireless mouse and i noticed a slight reduction in noise after i moved my modem but it's still too much.
Im considering buying something cheap like [link] for a small possible external soundcard that could bypass or eliminate the noise coming from my MOBO but I cant find much info on whether that'll actually work or not. Can anyone recommend me a small external soundcard like this that'll eliminate the noise or just an overall fix to my problem? I also use a speaker that plugs into my second 3.5mm jack and i notice the same static noise coming out of that too so i'm certain its a noise issue.
I meant something like this: [link]
Instead of Xonar DX or onboard audio.
The ideal for me would be to find a way to switch my modmic+AD700x to wireless, even if I lose the 'audiophile' quality to be honest!
I actually haven't gotten around to trying one to be honest.
I'm away for work at the moment, but I'll order one of these and try it when I get home on Friday. That should work right?
That is an option. I was going to do that but I saw reviews comparing direct line-in and conversion differences, where the conversion sounded a bit lower in volume. At the time of purchase, my issue was that the Vive Mic is a bit quiet. If you are going this route, I reccomend you get the Sabrent. I might test this out myself and formulate another review in the future. Thanks for your input!
I don’t think you can. Your speakers and your headphone output are the same 2 channel sound card. You can get a cheap usb “sound adapter” that just plugs into your USB port and has a audio out. They are like $5. After that route your monitor out to that sound card.
Edit: never mind. I missed the mixer part. Yes, you should be able to route monitor to the mixer and use headphone.
In my experience those don't work well with Macs. Pick up one of these.
Your computer might not have a line in port. In this case, look into a basic external USB sound card such as this: [link]
I got one of these to record my PO and it works great.
I use the Antlion Modmic 5. Watch out though, a small amount of people get unusual feedback "white noise" style when plugging it in. I use a little external USB sound card and that got rid of it. I also use some audacity chains and what not. Here's the little USB thing I use: [link]
Glad to hear about the success.
It probably damaged the motherboard (or maybe a daughterboard). Simply gluing is unlikely to work.
Ideal solution would be to open it up and replace the board. But that may be difficult or expensive.
To get the sound back your best bet is to use a USB soundcard (assuming you have functioning USB ports still) LINK There are better ones than that, but that should get you up and running.
was looking for that too. probably will upgrade to an fulla 2 with new headphones and an usb mic.
i have been using this for quite some time for my speakers and my mic: [link]
this probably has some downsides but i only made good experiences with it.
I also just did this ��. Pi ZeroW running Volumio.
Someone linked a cheap USB dac from Amazon in this sub a few days ago and Volumio recognized it right away with no special tweaks. Just choose “USB Device” for playback.
$7 on Amazon. Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) [link]
I dont know much about that problem, but I've heard literally every modmic owner and reviewer say that if you buy one, you should get a usb audio adaptor
Thats the one I was reccomended and one I've seen many buy. For some reason, it cleared up my audio problems I was having with my modmic. Before the audio quality was questionable, but after getting an adapter it worked like a charm. Also as well as make sure it isn't muted lol
At this point, below is what I would suggest:
First of all don't get the Modmic, it's not that good, especially for the price. The Zalman ZM-Mic1 or Sony ECMCS3 clip-ons will be better and cheaper.
The UCA202 won't work well with your headphones. Get a FiiO K1 or A1. They don't have a mic plug, so either use the on board plug for the mic, or use something like this.
I definitely will! You do the same. The way I did this one was I just ran the tracks playing into a small mixer I have, then a really simple USB interface i got off of amazon that looks like this:
this track is really simple so it didn't take much, but if you ran like 6 different channels into some simple interface like that it might muddy it.
I record most of my tracks into either logic or I use the recording feature on my op-1.
I'd really like to get more into abelton, becuase I think it would really help with workflow, but I have such a mental block on learning it. I'm used to the garageband/logic interface setup.
By the dongles are you talking about something like this or more like what creates the virtual surround on the Cloud II's? Or are they both kind of the same principle?
I'm pretty sure iMacs do not have a 3.5mm input, just the output.
I think you could get a product like this and it will let you accomplish what you're trying to get.
Personally I like overdoing things and I was thinking doing something similar but just getting a full audio mixer to let me wrap my 3DS and PC into the same headphone jack. Honestly, after seeing the product I linked earlier, I kind of just want to get that, myself.
This one. I'm thinking it's specific to this headset because it has the same problem on another computer when plugged into the onboard audio ports.
I presume you are using a Chromebook running linux. I say this because I am currently doing so (and love it so far) and have the same sound card and issue.
Many forums say to add the ChromeOS sound profile, however that does not work on the LTS kernel.
If this is the case for you (even if it’s not a Chromebook your device has the same baytrial sound card as mine), there is one fix and two work around. The actual fix is to use GalliumOS as it uses an older modified kernel designed to properly detect the sound card. I can confirm this works flawlessly. However I am not a fan of gallium (which uses XFCE). It’s a really great distro and is specifically optimized for chromebooks, I just prefer elementary OS.
So if you want to use another distribution, presumably on a LTS kernel or newer, you have to use a hardware work around unfortunately. You can use Bluetooth headphones or speakers which work great. The other work around is to use one of these usb to audio jack adapters. They don’t need a sound card and are universal. I just got mine today.
The reason I’m confident these are the only options is because I’ve tried everything to get sound to work. I’ve followed every forum or even reference to a solution to no avail. There’s also some really good blog dedicated to using Linux on a Chromebook and fixing all the issues. They went into depth documentating the issues and fixes (creating their own scripts and such) but in the end they conceded. Audio just wasn’t doing to work unfortunately.
If your budget's severely constrained (we've all been there!) then honestly, a $5-$10 USB sound device should do pretty well. Anything with decent reviews should be OK, unless you have some crazy exotic headphones which it sounds like you don't.
I haven't used thia specific one, but I've used similarly inexpensive ones to replace shitty laptop sound outputs and they were fine: [link]
Unlike speakers and headphones a DAC+amp is not a complicated thing, it's not terribly difficult to turn 1's and 0's into sound and the technology has been around for many decades. The only reason we get shitty ones is because a lot of phone/laptop manufacturers simply don't prioritize the extra pennies per unit and/or allocate a few engineer-hours to make their devices sound decent because, hey, there are features that people want more & the engineers are already working 60-hour weeks & deadlines are a motherfucker so sometimes things get skimped on.
Did you have to boost the signal through windows? I'd get a USB sound card like this one.
People are complaining to me that my mic is getting cut out all the time, should I switch to the modmic? and I want to buy this adapter: [link]
is it good? and just because It's not manufactured by antlion it doesn't mean that it can hurt the headphones right?
thanks in advance
Try uninstalling and reinstalling the soundcard drivers and updating the drivers for the soundcard.If that doesn't work try using a usb soundcard like this [link].
To see if it resolves the issues if it does, its a issue with the internal soundcard.
Before I enabled audio using the combination of Lilu + AppleALC + Layout value in Clover, I used a USB audio dongle. On my board audio was as normal for volume with that thing. The dongle is platform agnostic and no driver was required.
I have a pair of Micca PB42xs that are connected to directly into my computer. There's a very quiet hiss from he onboard dac that I assume is coming from inside the computer.
If I buy a very cheap USB dac, maybe something like this, will the problem be fixed?
If not, what should I buy?
It is likely your headphones. Check if connection is OK. If it is not USB, consider using [link]
Otherwise, check to see what people are discussing about your headphones. For instance, my Hyper X headphones were giving weird sounds. I turned off the mic (wasn't using it) and its great again.
Tried other headphones and none of them will register on the laptop and it just continues to play through speakers.
Will something like this work so I can use earbuds to listen to audio - [link]
Alright so after even further investigation, the static seems to only happen if I am outputting audio from the same PC I am inputting the audio to. If I remove the input from my stream PC for example and just put some headphones on and listen to my line in, there is no static and I can hear my gaming PC audio perfectly. As soon as I begin outputting to the mixer from the stream PC again, the static/buzzing starts again. Same happens when I do it with the Gaming PC. So I am wondering....would this possibly fix that?
its lagswitching yeah.
also if you want to get rid of that static sound in your recordings get something like this:
fixed it perfectly for me.
//e: only for the mic ofc
Ah, ok I think you're having a ground loop issue. Analog mics using the 3.5mm jacks are susceptible to it. If anything I would say try a cheap usb to 3.5mm sound card like this [link] to see if it helps.
You can buy a USB Sound card if you want to use in game chat. they are relatively cheap a 3$ here
Prije par mjeseci kupio sam BM800 mikrofon, stalak(boom arm), i usb sound card. Kad sam sve to spojio skonto sam da mi treba i power supply za taj mikrofon. Mislio sam koristit stari stolni(15kn) mikrofon(inače shit) dok to ne sredim. Ali ovaj put sam ga ušteko u sound card i razlika je jako velika, nema šuma, sve se jasno čuje. Naravno dovoljno je dobro da možeš čak koristit i za youtube ali morao bi se malo igrat sa setings-ima.
Ljudi na Discordu me moraju smanjivat a sjedim pola metra od mikrofona
Preporučujem ovako nešto + bilo koji mikrofon iz kauflanda :)
U could try one of these Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. [Black] (AU-MMSA) [link]
Works with the camera connection kit if u hav that already. Then u just plug ur 3.5 mm jacks in. I use it with my po sub
I have no idea but if you get desperate you can buy a USB sound device fairly cheaply.
Something like this should work: [link]
(I haven't used that one myself though, so do some research first.)
Alright so there are a few things you can do:
Reinstall NVIDIA drivers with EVERYTHING. Do NOT do a custom install. From what I can tell the issue is actually related to Realtek Audio drivers being the culprit. Doing a full install will install NVIDIA audio and disables RealTek. By doing this you may lose sound if using headphones, but all your monitors will work. I know this might be frustrating as hell, but if this occurs you'll need to buy one of these, which serves as its own sound card:
Or download the display driver from NVIDIA, then install through device manager. This might not work if it's related to the sound card issue.
It /might/ be possible to get BYT's audio working in Windows.
We are looking into contacting Maxim, who make the audio codec, and/or other companies who might be able to help us.
However, please do not make posts like this with misleading titles.
USB sound card is the current best solution to audio in Windows on BYT:
I have a setup that offers a variety of solutions but in different ways. I've searched for some topics here and get some different answers.
My setup is my PC MSI motherboard, has one main 2-channel single output.
Klipsch 2.1 ProMedia, speaker has a Headphones line out
Front panel Mic and Headphone input
also ordered on amazon [link]
USB External input for Mic and Headphones.
With these several options, I'm going to be pairing Fidelio X2's with a boompro mic. At the same time, I want my klipsch 2.1 speakers to work when my headset is unplugged. What is the best way to wire these? My first option was a Y-Splitter to the rear motherboard line out...Idk how that will sound or if will degrade any quality. I ordered this USB adapter primarily for my PS4 (I play wired controller for decreased input lag...and that disables the headphone jack on the damn controller). I have no problem switching or even buying that same adapter to use on PC as well. Any suggestions? Thanks for the help
I just got it from amazon. I didnt really search for it else where for cheaper because I wanted it fairly quick.
I bought this ([link]) with it. It was recommended from a few of the things I read about the modmic.
A few months after I built my PC my front headphone jack stopped working completely. I think they're really prone to breaking. I just bought one of these and plugged it into a usb port on the front for when I want to use my earbuds other than my headset.
you need this:
usb adapter will give the microphone more voltage, and in turn will make it louder.
you pretty much need to buy a usb sound card to get a decent sound out of these shitty microphones
No, that won't work. You'd need something like this if you mobo's input isn't powerful enough.
I have the antlion 4.0 and to get rid of the staitc I bought [link]. Its cheap but it got rid of the static
I have a question. I have a broken 3.5 jack on my PC so I'm forced to use USB. If I get the $26 deal along with this will it mess with the sound or would I be okay? The reviews are good but I don't know much about this stuff and I'm kind of new to PC or at least still learning.
Internal audio is the speakers, headphone jack, and microphone. They're all wired to the same audio chip inside the Chromebook. Maybe we should call it "on-board audio"?
USB and Bluetooth audio are digital and use an audio chip in the external device.
There are USB-headphone jack adapters which are very small and take digital audio in, and put analog audio out, e.g.: [link]
I have one of these for use on my laptop when I'm out and about, and it works fine. I'm sure it'd work for the Vive too.
Yes the amp will connect and properly power the speakers.
For the USB card:
Sometimes if I am low on space, I will tear this apart and desolder all the ports and connect wires directly.
I do this quite a bit. I use a Blue Icicle to convert my xlr mix to usb, then I use this guy to plug my phone in for skype (we actually use Discord which works better for us) and my headphones out. Using Asio4All you can input and record multiple USB sources simultaneously.
Something like this. Also, I would see if the audio works in another OS (live boot Ubuntu ect) and it's not just Windows 10 breaking everything.
It's either a motherboard or audio daugtherboard replacement at places like best buy/geek squad. They're not going to do anything like soldering on new components and such.
You can try a reputable PC/electronics repair shop and see if they are able to source and replace the jack for you - if that is all that is damaged.
Frankly I'd just get something like this - [link] - but you can search around for other USB to audio jack devices.
Even if it could be repaired, it's probably a lot cheaper just to get a USB solution and live with it sticking out of your laptop. It's hard to beat a $6 repair off Amazon.
You can also go for a full blown USB external soundcard as well, if that suits your needs. It will have built-in DAC which is much better for certain types of headphones.
Yes it was fixed. My mac is an old version to the point where the "line in" isn't really the line in in most comps today. For example its supposed to support amplifiers instead ( don't remember exactly but that was what I remembered). I ordered this product [link] and it works just fine and detects perfectly well. Would recommend however I haven't used it for a while so I do not know anything about durability.
EDIT: Mac Specs: iMac (20-inch, Early 2008) Processor: 2.4 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo. 4 GB 800 MHz DDR2 SDRAM (ORIGINALLY WITH 2 GB OF RAM BUT WAS UPGRADED)
If you just want audio you could get something like this. There are better USB sound cards, or you could get a PCI-E sound card ~~if you're more of an audiophile.~~ or an external DAC setup like /u/EnglishTimelord suggests.
To my knowledge, the front panel audio connectors will ALWAYS serve as the primary output device, and there is no way to change that (or at least if there is, it must be changed in your motherboard's BIOS settings.) This behavior matches the issues you're running into.
One thing you might be able to do is pick up a USB sound card, and plug one of the audio devices into that. That should serve as a separate playback device, allowing you to use either the Playback Devices menu within Windows or a utility like NirCmd to switch between the two devices.
hello i recently purchased a pair of Sennheiser HD 598's although im very happy with them i have a question about the " 7. 1 surround sound" if i use them with a usb sound [link] is it better to use them through the usb sound card or the audio jack on the front of my pc? also is there any software im missing out on for better surround sound? once again sorry for the noob question.
I use the modmic 4.0 and had the same issue you do, simply changing the audio from analog to digital solved all my issues and it sounds great now.
I got this adapter.
I appreciate the input. This is what I'm probably going to do, but with this one:
Accomplishes the same thing, right?
update: Ordered an external USB soundcard from Amazon ([link]), but to no avail. In games, videos, and music, the sound will still randomly drop out and won't come back unless I restart the game. The game will not even show up in the volume mixer once this has happened I should add. Other programs such as Skype however, will.
This is terribly frustrating.
Ah, sorry! This is the one I got - Looks like it was a bit more expensive than I thought.
I had this same problem with my rig, (HyperX cloud Headset and an NZXT S340 case if that matters). I bought a cheap little USB adaptor so I could plug my headset into the USB ports on the front of the case and that solved it. If you don't feel like plugging it in behind just grab one of these:
Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. [Black] (AU-MMSA) [link]
That's a UK link but I'm sure you can find an equivalent
I had problems with really low mic volume with a Realtek chip as well. My solution was just to buy one of these [link] and use it for the mic input, works like a charm. Not the greatest if you're trying to record high-quality sound, but really solid quality for just talking on teamspeak or whatever.
The video is private.
This could either be coil whine while gaming (which is normal) it could also be a sound card issue.
What sort of sound card do you have? Something like this, which bypasses the sound card could possibly fix it as well. (Note this is just some cheap brand on amazon)
Could be a dodgy or insufficient mic input on your motherboard. Buy a cheap little external soundcard like this one and see if it fixes it.
Those are some really shitty items. I thought there'd be a gem in there, but it's all junk.
The Raspberry Pi Zero is $5 (if you can find stock) and works as a great emulation system.
A USB sound device like this Sabrent one for $6 works great so solve a variety of audio issues like low mic volume or static/broken audio ports.
So many people in online games don't have mics. You can get one on eBay for $1. Please buy one if you play online games. www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=clip+on+microphone
If a spare USB port is available, an adaptor like this should get around the dodgy audio port when necessary. I used one when the audio port on my Asus Windows laptop became sporadically unreliable.
Sure! The G5 is just in the same price range as the FiiO, and is also a DAC/AMP like the FiiO, but there are definitely some other options. Also, Something like this might work, although it's not a DAC, so it will still use your onboard sound system, but for that price it might be worth a shot.
One of the best things about the monitor outside of its speakers and refresh rate is that there is 2 HDMI ports as well. If you ever need help with hooking up an external capture card to the Alpha or something let me know. And if you want to use a PC headset that has the mic and audio jacks separate you can use This although fiber optic utilizing headsets (Astros are great my opinion), sound the best.
if you read the entire thread, I tested the USB adapter with both my older Game Zero's (from i believe 2014) and it works fine, it's only the newer model with the removable cable that doesn't work. All other settings are identical. The microphone literally has to be in your mouth + shouting to hear anything.
I have updated the drivers, still the same situation. It has to do with the new model of the headset, I heard back from Sennheiser and apparently the new model is 50Ohmz impedance instead of the previous 150 Ohmz that I have in my headset. They swear it doesn't affect the microphone, and only the Cans but it seems like there's not enough juice being pulled through when going through usb for the signal to possibly make the conversion.
the adapter is this; [link]
Again to be clear. older model GAME ZERO's work with this adapter.
New model does NOT.
My current plan is to get a pair of ATH-M40x headphones with a V-MODA BoomPro mic for gaming and skype communication, but I'm in need of a USB sound card. Will just about any do, or is there something I should look out for? I'm currently thinking a Sabrent USB Adapter would be the best option with reasonable shipping times.
EDIT: Didn't notice your audio jack is busted, changing answer.
For what you're doing, a cheap USB soundcard off Amazon will probably be fine, the Dragonfly would be a bit overkill.
Something like this would tide you over until if/when you decide to go with higher quality music and sources:
You can certainly monkey with audio drivers and ktexts for hours to fix this, but there's also a "Gordian Knot" solution.
Buy a $6 USB Audio adapter, and never worry about audio drivers again.
Could you recommend an external usb sound adapter? I just bought a cheap one off amazon for $6.
You're probably not going to find a cheap decent speaker setup with optical, it's either going to be a nice expensive one, or a crap speaker with an included external optical converter.
I'd suggest either getting an optical converter like /u/casualweaponry suggested, or getting a USB sound card for a similar price and plugging that directly to the speakers, like so: [link]
Finally, you could also use a bluetooth speaker, won't get you quite the same sound quality but for cheap speakers that's not gonna make a huge difference and you can get some pretty good deals on BT speakers, plus you can use that for more than just the Alpha.
Is it USB or headphone jack wired?
edit: My idea is to try a USB adapter like this: [link]
Could just be that the headphone jack itself is having an issue.
I found the right thing.
Thanks for leading me in the right direction though, I found this through one of the questions on a bluetooth item on amazon, they mentioned soundcard replacement so I looked it up and found this.
> I'd ditch the 740 for an i5-4690k.
Suspect you meant to say something else--different GPU?
And, depending on your audio needs, something as simple as a $6 USB audio dongle (what I use) works great and is immune to system updates. No messy kext/dsdt efforts either.
Same here, this little guy costs $6 and was completely plug-and-play for me, I never had to care about audio drivers again.
You can buy even cheaper plugs, but the build quality on the cheapo ones aren't great, YMMV.
If there's a lot of interference, a quick/cheap option is to get one of these or a similar version. It'll clear up input.
I wouldn't bother with a specific interface for digital modes. A $6 USB soundcard is all you need.
This is what I use, and it works like a champ. Now, you have to have a device with a USB port, so that rules out phones, but most Windows tablets have a full USB port these days.
Yeah, I stumbled on someone's post about the same audio codec and trying the Voodoo kext, but it didn't work until doing something in iTunes. Unfortunately, it wasn't clear what the person did.
What you can do is look for an inexpensive USB audio adapter. Here in the U.S. I was able to find this one, but there are many others available. Just plug it into a USB port and it works.
> Asus P8H61-MX
It looks like that mobo has the VIA VT1708S which is going to be a super PITA to try and get working with anything other than Voodoo - so that's out of the question.
I usually steer folks away from Voodoo as it is a pretty hacky solution to audio. You might benefit from a USB audio card. There are some you can find on Amazon for like $6 USD - check this.
Sorry I don't have any better news for you :/
Just a word of warning - I implemented this in my car, and ran into a few hurdles:
1) Audio output was too quiet, haf to crank my stereo to 100%. Installed a USB soundcard ( [link] ) to correct the issue.
2) Calling support is limited! Just launches speakerphone on your phone, no bluetooth audio support for calling.
3) I had trouble finding a power adapter that wouldn't trigger the lightning bolt (bad power indicator) in the upper right of my screen when, especially since the phone pulls power through the Pi. Oddly this one worked fine: [link]
4) This issue is probably limited to my exact car, or my model of car ( 2010 Hyundai Elantra Blue), but: after connecting the setup, within 5 minutes a light would fire in my dash indicating one of my TPMS sensors had disconnecting. Removing the Pi setup would clear the light within 5 minutes. The sensors operate on 315 mhz; no idea how the Pi setup could be interfereing ( tried a Pi2, Pi3, and Pi3b+ w/ Official 7" LCD ). I am probably the only person on earth who will experience this, but figured I'd report anyways.
5) Heavy Waze + Spotify user here; the entire setup would shit the bed if there was too much going on in Waze (traffic, cops, accidents would trigger massive audio tearing). Other users report similar experience on this front.
Overall, cool project, but I retired my setup!
I bought a USB adapter to get audio out.
Do you mean something like this?
I can recommend you to buy a USB Audio adapter and plug it to the PS4 and a Headphone jack extender
If you just want the sound output from the jack, you can just use a USB adapter that has the outs for Headphone and MIC.
If you had a mac, I could walk you through the whole process. But I'm not familiar with inexpensive/free DAWs for PC.
Again I'll say: You HAVE to have an audio interface! Please feel free to complain to TE about this.
You could use two cheap USB audio adapters (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_a0KIDbG9X7TFP) and a stereo splitter to record the left and right channels in the DAW on separate tracks. When exporting that project to a WAV file (that's what I use), make sure left channel track is panned hard left and the right channel track is panned hard right.
You can get an usb audio dongle for about $6 on amazon. This way you will have fresh ports. And yes it is possible to replace the ports on the case if you want to get into soldiering and taking apart the components. Or.....you could get audo ports that connect directly to the motherboard.
Imma send you a link to something I'm gonna buy with the headset. please tell me if it will improve my sound experience. and if I can use the ad700x + mod mic 4 on it?
If you mean something like this then you can do the same with any free audio recording software and one of these things.
Just sync up the audio with the visual in a video editor of your choice, and your set!
USB sound card -> Headphone cable splitter, done.
(both were just first hits on Amazon, feel free to choose similar device replacements).
Is that like an amplifier or just a usb audio card?
Edit: How about this?
I use this which I love because I can still use my aux port to listen to music as I solve.
Try a usb mic input, I use one for my mic instead of the front or back panel and it works great.
Something like This should do the trick.
You could just pick up a USB audio adapter like this
should work fine
I'm guessing you're looking for something like this
I actually was thinking this would work also? https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8. That one you posted how does that connect, sorry for the dumb question, I obviously can't use either audio jack.
EDIT: I just saw the picture with the usb thing. I'm assuming it comes with a cable right?
How about that? 7 bucks on prime.
I would recommend buying a USB to audio jack device, such as this: UK Listing, US Listing.
I have a v-moda boompro and I can vouch for these devices. Had mine for over 3 years and it removed the background buzzing noise that I had problems with.
here you go
If all you need is a headphones output and a microphone input you can get a USB sound card for very cheap
You wanna get something like this, it should fix the static
Get this 7 dollar one. I use it with my modmic 5 and people say i sound great.[link]
Hi there. Can someone give me a hand with this noob problem I have?
I was toying with the idea of making a few tutorials for Youtube.
Being on a very tight budget, I looked up an affordable mic that could still provide a decent audio and found the Behringer XM-8500.
I can get an XRL/XRL cable from a friend, so my plan was to simply buy an XRL to 1/8" adapter and connect the thing directly into my computer. However, I read somewhere that I can't just do that. It would result in terrible audio quality. Something about impedance and latency (this is Greek to me).
I googled a few things and also read that a cheap external USB card like this one solves the problem. Then found out that it does not.
Then, someone said that what I actually need is a transformer like this one. Another dude said that I should go with a USB audio interface.
I was considering getting a USB interface, but since it's gonna be a cheap one, I must assure that it doesn't miss the feature I need (I GUESS it's the conversion of analog to digital signal, but idk anything).
Would anyone be so kind to tell me what I need in order to have a decent audio in this scenario so that the listener doesn't run away out of cringe?
Sorry if I made this unnecessarily lengthy.
I play mine through Steam, myself. There's probably some software out there that'll take the mic input and put it through a different, software mic.
For a hacky solution, you could get this. You'd first connect the two ports together with a short audio cable. Follow this article to "listen" to your mic through the USB speaker output. The cable will loop it back into the USB mic input, changing the sample rate to whatever the dongle's sample rate is. You can then select the USB mic for Sea of Thieves.
I use one of these, which work great and which I got for £6.50:
Have you tied any other headphones? Could be a compatibility problem? If not only thing u can think of is getting this only other thing I can think of sorry :(
Sorry for all the German, but would this one be suitable?
It's interference, can be fixed with a simple USB adapter like this
I recently bought this one:
And it was horrible, the mic sound was really bad and need boost making it clip.
Is the one you recommended there better? I've heard many of the usb cards now is pretty low standard.
edit: the reviews for yours isn't that good it seems:
Would a USB-C to USB hub with power passthrough, along with a USB-A DAC work?
I’m plugging it in from the front. I’ve tried plugging it in from the back and the noise is worse. I also tried this and it doesn’t really help....
Another option, if nothing else works. [link] and pass that usb device through.
Are these sound adapters good enough for gaming/Movies/etc?
Got a motherboard off of /r/hardwareswap and found out the board doesn't output/record sound and at this point there is no question that it's a hardware issue, am needing to know where I just wasted $65 on a defective board or that I can make due with these as a work-around.
Edit: I'm more concerned about the recording quality of using one of these. A good part of my projects involve audio recording, so that is probably the biggest concern for me.
The cheapest option would be to buy an external USB audio/mic adapter like this one. That way, you can keep using whatever headphones you currently have and plug them into the port on the adapter.
When you first plug the external USB adapter in, allow Windows to recognize and install the USB driver for it. Once that's done, go to your Windows sound settings and set that external USB adapter as your default playback device under your sound options so that audio will come through it. Here is a screenshot on how to do that for your convenience.
I've used these three from amazon without incompatibility. I will say none of them are loud enough (like max is good listening, but with a fan on I can't hear the dialogue) at full volume with my cheap Dell PC speakers.
Eh not too much. You can also use high end external dacs but imo it's good to just have a cheap adapter to rule out headphone issues over interference with your sound card.
More than likely that buzz is nothing at all to worry about and not even related to the cord and if you can hardly hear it I wouldn't worry about it.
If you are worried about the cord quality of the Vmoda, you could also get a mod mic instead, it's more wires overall but sounds great and works even on future headphones that may not have a removable wire.
Mass drop sort of has a knock off as well [link]
I generally use this to plug my microphones into [link] and it always tends to clear up any static that they can pick up from interference that microphones can and will have issues with.
I use one on my T430 because I use high impedance headphones. (I use the FiiO e10k with DT770 250 ohm.)
I also have an x230 I use with earbuds and no DAC. It does have some static in the background. It sounds like low volume tape hiss and is only noticeable while nothing is playing.
I find the small USB DACs such as this one works well if you just want to avoid the background noise. If you are using Linux, avoid the USB Sound Box type unless it is a well known name brand, it occasionally causes kernel panics.
Got a question about setting up a lapel/modmic can I get something like this plug it into the extra headset usb port here and plug something like a modmic 5 or cheap lapel mic into it? I'm not sure that would fit especially once the aux cable is connected not sure it would close.
Anyone have experience setting up a mic this way? if you know any working 90 degree usb adapters or usb sound card/mic combos that would be great.
I tried using a y adapter and it didn't work. Just get this sound card with a usb extender if your cords are long enough.
You need one of these:
This one, [link]
I fixed it buy buying this on amazon.
I have a ModMic which I used for LANs and I quite enjoy it. Plugging directly into the audio ports on the back of my motherboard caused issues with static, so using an adapter similar to this can resolve that issue - [link].
Also, MassDrop has come out with their own answer to the ModMic which may be worth looking into: [link]
Most likely it's an effect of the jack breaking off. Try picking up something like this as a replacement for the built-in audio.
Well, there's always USB alternatives:
When the built-in audio on my Mac Pro broke, I bought and use this Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter $7
try connecting to the 3.5mm port in the front if available, Also try a usb soundcard [link].
You would need a USB adapter, USB headphones, or add a sound card.
the soundcard is failing to confirm. Try using a usb soundcard [link]
Try a usb soundcard and see if the issues resolves itself. [link]
This also happens when I use external USB sound adapter. This is the adapter I'm using: Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter [link]
I agree with /u/damo13579. If you search amazon for "usb dac", you'll find a number of options. For example, this costs just $6.50 and has a mic jack also. If you want something with a variety of outputs for receivers AND headphones, something like this is still very reasonably priced. Of course, you can spend $5000 on a usb dac if you want. If you are out of USB jacks, you'll probably want to get a USB hub or some kind of mac dock (like a thunderbolt dock) for your mac as well.
usb to 3.5mm DAC, like this
i personally have this headset and the included DAC works fine just give the ps4 like 5 seconds to figure what hard thing you thrusted inside was
i found using a external soundcard fixed this for me. i was having major issues with that til i picked one of these up: [link]
completely eliminated all static and feedback
Found a 7$ one [link]
Sound? Not sure if your planning on using onboard audio or dedicated card, but a usb dac might be good choice if Asus hasn't updated the onboard drivers...
I plugged this in, and the audio out worked. I had to edit something to get the microphone input to work. I now have two of the Behringer soundcards, so I gave the Sabrent away years ago.
It looks like Raspbian Jessie has some issues. Here are two How-To-Fix articles.
What model is it? Did it come with a headset?
Edit: You may want to consider an external sound card. e.g. [link]
These things exist and are cheap as hell.
Without soldering skills you will likely be unable to effect a repair on your case ports
Will this work while docked?
Do I need something like this:
And you should
I have this and it works fine
edit or what /u/areyougame suggested should work too!
Just get a USB to 3.5 hookup. Something like this will turn your USB hub on something like a K70 into what you seek.
"Easy Digi" sound card interface, a USB soundcard, and some cables should get you pretty far. There are some variants of the Easy Digi kit that are assembled and include specific connectors.
I used this usb sound card
and this tutorial
you will just need to find the volume key bind section in the retroarch config and set that to a custom button but i just use the up and down on the joystick for player 1.
I think it's just the cheap audio adapter they installed. If you want something to fix it, get something like this
The interference is because they didn't shield the module enough so it's grabbing a lot of other electrical signals from other stuff in the computer .
I think I need an external sound card, like one of these.
I'm not good with headsets...
Ahhh, one more question, bud. Sorry. Your recommendation of an USB External Stereo Sound Adapter? Was about to get this but heard from a video review it gave bad audio output. Do more expensive ones make a good difference or is it from the fact its coming out from an usb?
Was about to get this one actually, but they seemed similar.
You can try the USB port and something like this: [link] (but one with a single combo port I guess)
I use this myself.
A usb sound card is like $7 and you wont notice a difference.
You think something like this would work?
Ah, my bad, I thought it did.
Hmmm, maybe you could try something like this instead.
There's something wrong with your front panel audio, then. Maybe try getting one of these? [link]
Save yourself the headache and buy a USB sound card.
The audio jack on the laptop may not be able to accept that connector type. With a headphone/mic combo jack, there is an extra layer specifically for that purpose, which, if the laptop doesn't have it as well, it won't recognize it. Here is a jack that supports headphone and mic. And here is your standard headphone jack. This might be the problem.
Edit: This will probably resolve the issue for you.
also would it work with this ([link]) adapter?
Dead simple way, just spend under $10 for a dac like this.
A couple options posted to the Braswell ticket linked above:
Note that some "USB speakers" actually use the headphone jack for audio, and are only powered by USB. That will not work. :)
This is the sound card I use and it works perfectly! Then I used this website to help me set it up and now it works without issue!
I use mine as an HTPC so hooked up to receiver + speakers.
Cheapest option would be USB sound card like so: [link]
Best bang for your buck IMHO would be to get a Turtle Beach Ear Force DSS, cheap surround headphone amp that takes optical input. They don't make them new anymore but you can find them on ebay easy under $20, e.g.: [link]
USB headsets work too.
What exactly does it look like? I'm assuming just a couple 3.5mm jacks that plug into USB? If so:
Sorry not directly addressing your question but I cant live without headphones on my laptop. Might try a USB sound card adapter
They're labled "USB Soundcards" generally, I just got
For a new analog headset to solve the same issue, for 7$ its hard to beat.
If the headset is USB or BT capable you could connect it that way. If the headset only has 3.5mm jacks then you would need to get a USB sound card like this: [link]
Would I need something like this for my EK10?
The mobo I currently have (x99 deluxe) has something called Crystal Sound 2?
Hmm. So the motherboard audio out, which you're using for your speakers isn't, working well.
>I have a USB external Dac
I don't think they're the same but have you considered a USB stereo adapter? At roughly $10US it's cheaper than replacing your motherboard and case.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
To add on to this, I've heard that one of these usb sound cards help alot. It gives it more voltage and results in a clearer sound coming thru the mic.
In this review video he is using the mic with the sound card and it sounds pretty good for the price.
I have a USB to Headphone/Mic thing I can include for free. Works fine. One of these [link]
Hey everyone! I am in the market for a new headphone. Any help is appreciated.
Could do Bose QC35 + stick on mic boom [link] + USB to headphone/mic [link]
This is the guy with the similar/same issue: [link]
This is the USB sound adapter (it works):
If you need extra audio jacks there's always something like this
My ModMic had a lot of static background noise, which might be what you're having, this was able to completely fix my problem.
Something like this?
More like this.
Something like this may work for you
If one is for mic and one is for audio get this
USB headphone/mic adapter $5.
You shouldn't have to, but maybe pick up one of these for $6:
You could be thinking of USB? Why would you need that? Something like this, maybe?
EDIT: Looking at the link I posted, I just realized that laptops usually have a combo-jack, which would make using a ModMic impossible with headphones without an adapter. The adapter is kind of bulky though, so it might block some adjacent USB ports. If that is the case, consider getting this instead.
If you don't want to spend money on the audio you could go with USB audio.
Alternatively, you could use a cheap USB sound card like this: [link]
You're likely not too worried about the sound going to the bass shaker(s) being audiophile-quality, so these work fine. Shows up as a completely different sound device so no issues there, either.
Hmm, interesting. If I'm understanding, I'd pass the USB sound card through to the VM and set that as my default audio device in the VM. Then, I'd plug that and the audio jack on my headphones (it has split audio output/input plugs) into the splitter, with the input still plugged into my motherboard.
Looks like I could do this for about $20 total. Any recommendations on USB sound cards, and advice on how to do a pcie passthrough of a USB controller (for my qemu.sh script)? I don't need super high quality, but would try to avoid tinny sounds, as you point out.
I'm currently eyeing this $5 beauty on Amazon.
Did you know, you can use any set of headphones as a microphone? Plug your headphones into the mic jack on one of these bad boys [because if you use the controller jack it'll only work as headphones], then plug it into your USB port and boom you're talking. It doesn't sound awesome quality, but it works.
Wondering if one of these would work: Amazon
I have an amp hooked up to my speakers. Just need to hook it up to the pi zero
I'd get a FiiO E10K, and just plug in the headphones/speakers into the 3.5mm output.
If you wanted to go super cheap you could get this [link]
Sounds like interference if the mic is muted and sound still comes through. Using a USB interface might solve it, but there's no way to know for sure. There are several cheap USB soundcards for <$10 on amazon, but the sound quality may be questionable. For around $30 you can try the Creative Labs X-Fi Go, which I would trust a bit more.
The 9500's have pretty low impedance at 32 ohms and have high sensitivity at 101dB/mW, so an external amp is not really necessary.
this is... genius
spent the last few days with thinking about different solutions (like extendending the cable to 5m to match the vive cable and zip tie them together) and I have never thought of using the audio and the usb port o.O
thanks I guess I will use a10€ soundcard (maybe this one?) [link]
and the audio jack on the vive
I need a DAC & Amp to use with my Philips SHP9500s on my PC.
Budget: $50 - $100
Necessary Features: USB Input, External Power(non portable)
My onboard audio sounds pretty good (Asus Z97-AR motherboard), but it is very noisy. I also have this cheapo USB adapter which sounds awful, but it's quiet. I use the audio adapter for my V-Moda Mic and I plan to keep using it because the mic is very clear with it.
The most recommended products seem to be the Fiio E10k and the Micca Origen. I think the Micca is perfect, but it's over budget. The Fiio has all the features I need too, but reviews seem to be mixed about actual sound quality.
My biggest question is whether there is an appreciable difference between the 192kHz Micca and the 96kHz Fiio. Also, are there any other obvious contenders that I'm overlooking?
The only alternative to Clover for booting El Capitan is a version of Chameleon called "Enoch" (if memory serves). You'll find more discussion and troubleshooting threads for Clover, however.
The MultiBeast audio patch frequently fails to work. Many users go with one of the script-based audio solutions (by authors "Toleda" or "Piker-Alpha" at tonymac). You need to know which audio codec is present on your board, as well as the array of audio ports (commonly three or five) used. The scripts are interactive in that you make certain choices as it's run.
Toleda's guides are typically difficult to understand because he won't write in a plain-language style. What you have to do is carefully read through the whole thing, then do it again if needed to figure out which parts of the guide are an outline, and which parts are actual instructions.
When all else fails, get something like this and save yourself the misery of trying to get audio working via software patches.
Any USB audio dongle should work, but this is the one I have.
I had run one of the audio patching scripts, but it gave me only partial audio function. There were none of the system sounds in OS X, but I could get audio out if playing a video stream in a browser window. After doing a fresh install of El Cap I decided to grab the dongle just to see what would happen--works perfectly. It's a solution for a desktop with plenty of ports and where it doesn't matter if the dongle is sticking out the back. Would be a little clunky on a laptop.
I'd ask @AlienwareTech just to see if you can even get parts anymore. If not, you can always get a USB sound card. I've used this one for almost as long as I've had my x51 due to a finicky headset. Works like a charm, and pretty small.
Are there any good USB Headphones, or alternatively how does something like this work:
None of the 3.5mm jacks on my PC seem to recognise the superlux hd668b I just bought, so I am at a loss what to do.
It's either return the headphones and stick with the grubby USB Gamer Headset I have, or get a cheap adapter and hope it works out well.
I see will somethink like this work?
> e Manager in Windows, find your audio device, right click on it and open Properties, go to the Advanced tab, and paste the Hardware ID h
I did find it out it uses ALC898 version but it did not work. If I buy something like will work for audio?: [link]
Absolutely. Same thing - i got onboard working, and it would break, then I'd spend time to get it to work again, then it would break, then...
I spent like 9$ on amazon, plugged it into a usb2 slot and i haven't had to fuck with it since.
While I appreciate the want to have a "flawless" system that requires no extra dongles - my time is worth way more than 9 goddamn dollars, and having a working hack that doesnt drop audio every other boot is worth way more than that.
I rarely say "just give up", but this is a case where theres an easy solution that you won't ever have to worry about again and makes every update that much easier.
EDIT: i was wrong - it's SIX dollars on amazon delivered to your door
If it's just to get rid of the static, you don't need to get one of those super expensive sound cards. One of these would work fine.
It's basically just a USB stick that you plug in that comes with it's own headphone jack. [link]
Like that. :) Had a problem on one of my laptops with there being faulty wiring in my audio jack.
Do you think this would work? [link]. Plug that into a usb port and plug one headset into there and have another headset plugged into my desktop. Would the 2 headsets still cancel each other out do you think?
Some people are claiming this works too. Maybe worth a $6 gamble.
One issue i can see is there's no mic socket on the DSS2 so you either have to use a talkback cable or one of these USB audio adapter in the USB in socket on the DSS2 to give you the mic input.
It's only £5 so once i get the box later i'll order an adapter this evening.
I've had this problem before as well. If you go into your sound settings (assuming you are on windows 7, 8 or 10, reading submission guidlines must be hard cough) under "recording" make sure both disconnected and disabled devices are visible and look for anything that you don't need, in my case it was the "CD Player" even though my soundcard wasn't even connected to the optical drive, and there was this constant hiss on my microphone that stopped as soon as i turned the volume on the "CD Player" to 0. So try some of the recording devices, maybe even playback devices that you don't need, turn their volume down or disable them entirely, see if anything helps.
Secondly, if you can get a hold of an external soundcard (something like this) you could find out if the laptop's soundcard in general is causing the noise. Onboard Soundcards are known to cause problems like this although it shouldn't be like this on a preassembled laptop of course.
If its a combo port you might be able to use a usb sound card to circumvent that like this - [link]
So it's there regardless of what mic you use or if no mic is used?
Sounds like it's interference to me. Possibly from the fan (I've had this issue with a laptop before) or something else that has close proximity to that input.
Doesn't matter if there is anything plugged in or not, it's not interfering with the microphone, it's interfering with the input.
A USB sound card adapter like this might help with the issue - but they're not terribly good quality. Might be a good starting point to troubleshoot at any rate - only $6.00
Is $6 too much to spend?
Edit: Here is one for $2.
Cheap solution is one of these.
Or bring to a shop have them open and see is it broken from the motherboard.
If it is cheap solution is better unless you're loaded.
Ok, so an update.
-Latest drivers have made no difference
-Deleting the drivers under Device Manager and reinstalling did not work
-Speakers worked for a little bit, while the headsets did not, but now speakers are full of static like the headset again
-Device Manager lists Realtek High Definition Audio AND AMD High Definition Audio Device
I'm at a bit of a loss on what to do. I would like to fix this so we can spend time together over the holidays, but I ordered a USB sound device as well, just in case we can't fix this. Any more ideas?
Edit: [link] is the device I purchased. One additional note as well:
-Using the "test" feature for speakers works fine-there is no static in that regard.
Yes, that is a definite possibility. Though, I don't know why both front and rear jacks would have the same issue. If you want something cheap that you can use to get audio working, you can try this. [link]
I'm not 100% sure I've understood this correctly, but I'm presuming that:
The Razer headset only has a single 3.5mm jack (rather than a separate jack for mic and headset speakers) and the speaker part has broken, but the mic still works. you want to use the mic from the headset, but have sound come through some earbuds.
I'm also going to presume (for some reason) you only have 1 3.5mm input on your laptop/pc/whatever.
If that's the case, the easiest solution is probably to get something like this
if you have 2 3.5mm inputs on your laptop/pc/whatever then putting the razer into the microphone socket, and earbuds into the speaker socket should work fine (you might need to change some settings in the OS, depending on what OS you have)
Thank you! Going to double check and make sure that the mobo in her system is the same as the one listed on the site-I swear there is always a piece or two slightly different than advertised when I've bought prebuilts. The sound card I meant to link was: [link]
I've seen some very small USB "sound cards" like this: [link] but I am a bit hesitant to believe that something that small could replace even onboard sound, but I am admittedly pretty ignorant when it comes to anything sound related.
Something like this is what I mean: [link]
It has audio and mic jack converters
Would something like this do the job well enough on my budget? Or would this be worth it?
After some quick searching, there are threads at tonymac and insanelymac discussing that VIA audio codec, but they are from several years ago and with older versions of OS X. The newest mention I found is here at insanelymac. The person who posted there was using Mavericks, so that's fairly recent.
Edited to add: One thing to keep in mind is that if you cannot find a compatible kext for your motherboard's audio, then a simple USB audio adapter will get the job done. They can be purchased here in the States at very low cost, but I don't know how easily you can get computer accessories like that in Georgia. Here's just one example.
I found a solution to the problem. I just bought one of these and the problem was fixed right away by plugging my microphone into that. I'm putting this comment here so anyone with the same problem knows that there's a solution.
I used this, works for all my PC gaming headsets [link]
Thanks for the recommendation, dylan43270.
What do you think about me just using a UBS to 3.55mm adapter like this one for my headphones?
And still use the Lepai?
I use this: Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) [link]
I use headphones with it but no reason you couldn't use an aux to aux lead to go into your monitor. Just set it as default playback option once plugged in
Would this work?
My HP Laptop has a really annoying audible "noise" when using headphones- I sent it back for repair and it was returned stating there was basically nothing wrong with it and the noise is normal >:(
I found a possible, really cheap (sub 10$), solution- buying one of those really small portable external usb sound cards like this one:
I don't want to spend money on a DAC and I really just want the buzz/ noise gone; I'm not looking for superior audio quality. All I want is something that'll last for a good while and sounds the same as a normal audio jack.
Anyone have any recommendations/ experience with these small sound cards?
Yes, you could install another sound card in a PCI/PCIe slot or a USB - Amazon UK USB - Amazon US
I've not had the multiple cables cause any issues, and I'm pretty happy with the mic quality though some people have reported needing to get a soundcard or something like that or else it is has some background static (one person just used a little cheap one like this and they said it worked [link] )
Here are the reviews that convinced me [link]
and [link] the microphone test in the second one is around 3:00
Also, you say elcheapo.... Is this going to make my audio shit or something or is it just a good deal. I'm not opposed to paying a little more, but I'd prefer not to have shit quality sound. Will this sound just as good as what I have?
You also seem to know more than me... will this work dude?: [link]
Next I would try the optical audio or HDMI audio.
Or maybe try one of those USB sound cards like this
Sorry, I thought it was the same as yours, but its a different model.
It was 11$ canadian, it was very inexpensive.
Just checked it on amazon.com and its even cheaper at $5.99
Sound card! [link]
Thanks for all the help!
I found a solution!!!! Since Realtek was the problem, I decided to bypass them completely and buy a USB soundcard. I bought this from amazon:
Plugged it in and it worked right away. It was a cheap 11$ solution.
Thanks again for all the help earlier!!
I believe if you have realtek audio on your motherboard its still a pain and causing white noise and terrible things, lucky you can solve this problem for $5
It seems cheap and you would think the microphone quality would be bad, but it's actually the best solution and gives the same quality as intended, here is a video showing the solution [link]
Spend $6 and get a USB sound card like this one. It will provide better audio due to less cross talk on the un-shielded front panel audio cables. Here
I guess you have a realtek motherboard? It fucks with everything, I guess you need an external Dac/amp to improve the quality, the modmic can be fixed with a simple USB soundcard like this [link]
If you want a temporary fix you can get something like this
The way I do it is I bought some cheap external USB sound cards.
I set Teamspeak to output to one card, and I set windows(which means games) to output to the second card.
Now you can control individual audio levels.
Then buy this:
And then this to convert it to your single jack headphone/mic:
hmmm that was not the issue I was having but what did fix my issue was an external audio DAC. I picked one up for 7 bucks at a local micro center. For 7 bucks might be worth a shot. Here is a link to the one I have
Also another troubleshooting step would be to hook your audio with an HDMI cable to a monitor with built in speakers or to a TV as that uses your GPUs audio drivers instead of your built in ones, prolly realtek? Whether or not you have an extra monitor like that or tv lying around I dunno.
You can buy a USB audio jack.
Like this one Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter
There's nothing preventing you from using an amp, the problem is you're using split channels instead of stereo aux so it's made more complicated.
You can modify for your use case by just buying a cheap USB DAC like this one which I use with aux output and passing through that instead, leaving your current DAC and amp owned by the host as in your current configuration.
No ingame audio.
In Windows having selected my Onboard Realtek Digital Output as default Playback device results in no ingame audio.
Changing the default Playback device in WIndows to a cheap 8$ external sound card and voila ingame sound is working.
Try an external DAC. You can get one that works decently (which I can personally recommend) for five bucks or so, an audiophile-quality DAC for a hundred bucks or so, or, if you want to do it right, you can get this one.
My setup is the AKG K553 Pro + Mod Mic recommended below. I like it a lot. The only negative is that the cable for the 553s is 2m, and not detachable. The mod mic comes with a 2m cable, so I used that and the clips + ties to bundle it all together. It's a little unwieldy, but my headphones don't leave my desk.
I also bought this: [link] because my mobo leaves a hiss when using the onboard mic jack.
I always have a cheap usb stick while I solve problems like this (or get lazy and just use the stick). There are cheaper versions if you look around: Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) [link]
i went around all of the kext mess and just got a cheapie adaptor on Amazon that converts audio to USB.
I've had this same issue.
^This will solve your issue. It turns your USB port into a mic/audio jack. One for each, so no matter your programming, it will recognize whatever you plug into the mic jack as a audio input instead of output.
It's a bit of a challenge setting levels so they won't clip since it basically uses the mic port like a pair of headphones, but if you are like me (low budget, not recording digital for money) then this is the best cheap option.
Used, in great condition except the headphone jack is broken. Offering USB headphone jack dongle with it.
How much do you guys think it's worth?