there is a good book I read that is exactly this story: Saltwater Buddha: A Surfer's Quest to Find Zen on the Sea
Saltwater budha https://www.amazon.es/Saltwater-Buddha-Surfers-Quest-Find/dp/0861715357/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=3S5EWKMN10G2K&keywords=surf+buddha&qid=1658234849&s=books&sprefix=surf+budd%2Caps%2C158&sr=1-2
I recommend The Saltwater Buddha, Brave New World or Survivor.