Absolutely. This is one that I have, it give you his background and life story. I have really enjoyed it and would very much recommend it.
Sam Maloof, Woodworker
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1568365098/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_S3S3wbESPWRCK
Of course, I am no expert in finishes though. I base mine off of Sam Maloof's finishes in his book (http://www.amazon.com/Sam-Maloof-Woodworker/dp/1568365098) If you are unfamiliar with him you should look him up, he was an incredible man.
He uses a 1 to 1 ratio of everything and so do I. Be careful with the beeswax. When I first did it I kept adding beeswax because I didn't notice it getting any thicker and when it cooled down it was useless. Way to much beeswax, you really only need a couple of small hand full for a pretty good sized batch.
Also, sometimes I don't use these mixes typically because they can be a pain to make. Sometimes I just use minwax wipe on poly (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Minwax-1-pt-Wipe-On-Poly-Clear-Satin-40910/100376149). Works great if you really rub it in. If you let it sit on the wood for to long it starts to become spotty and it looks bad. Wipe it on, let it sit for a few minutes, rub it in, scuff, repeat.
Here is the mix, I believe, Sam Maloof used:
BASE COAT Mix equal parts of: 1. Boiled Linseed Oil 2. Raw Tung Oil 3. Semi gloss Urethane Varnish (I use satin poly)
FINISH COAT Heat equal parts of: 1. Boiled Linseed Oil 2. Raw Tung Oil 3. Shredded Beeswax
P.S. I don't like brush on poly methods. I never had much success with them, I only use these rub finishes now.
Yes, this one (above) by Charles Brock is very good. I am only familiar with one of Sam Maloof's books, but it is well worth having: http://www.amazon.com/Sam-Maloof-Woodworker/dp/1568365098