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Check out the lamps that have a magnifier inside the light ring. Has a spring arm assembly to swing in and out of the way when not using it.
Personally, I picked up this illuminated headset from amazon.
I am a noob, so take what I say with a grain of salt. I got a $10 flip down from Amazon. It is amazingly helpful and I don't feel eye strain. I don't wear eye glasses, though it has enough room to wear one. You can also manually adjust the focus by moving your head closer or further :)
My biggest complaint is the headband sucks. The tightener sucks and loosens to easily. I would spend a few more bucks for something with a better strap. Though this is hands down better than nothing.
SE MH1047L Illuminated Multi-Power... [link]
Sure. This is the one that I bought. $10. Inexpensive, and I love it. It's all plastic, and seemingly not the highest quality, but I haven't had any problems with it at all.
I use these so I could see to do all the detail. Take you time, find a photo of him you like and shows the details you want (I used a photo of hot toys fett It showed a few different views )
I agree the "helping hands" magnifier just wasn't cutting it.
This is the one I bought, it has 4 levels of magnification.
I bought this based on a review from one of the many video-tutorial painters. I forget who, but someone will surely have a link. It does exactly what it's supposed to do, but I've only used it a couple times and it takes a little getting used to.
Personally, I use reading glasses with 2x magnification. Glasses just feel normal and never get in the way. Everyone's different.
I love the magnifying headset I got a while back.
Edit: it's very comfortable, inexpensive, the built in light helps (I paint in the basement), and it really magnifies well.
It really needs to be soldered/replaced. If you have trouble seeing the small stuff, I recommend something like this -
The issue is not the connector, it is that they are all wired with extremely thing gauge since they are intended to carry signal not power. You just replace the connector as part of replacing the supplied audio cable with heavier gauge wire.
All my tools finally arrived in the mail (Well , except for this thing which I only got 'cos it was three bucks and I'm guessing it's gonna suck but it was only three bucks). I'll be giving this a go today! Wish me luck.
UPDATE #1: Okay, I've gotten the mvmt out and on the holder. I'm probably more terrified than I should be. Also, the watch has been worn down for weeks, but the moment I took the movement out it started ticking. I don't wanna do anything before it stops, but I also don't want to leave it out, exposed, for hours, to collect dust and hair. I'm thinking of covering everything with a tupperware belljar and just walking away for several hours until it finally wears down. And I'll just pray to god the second hand doesn't stop over the date window. :-p
Smoke-stopper, they protect from serious screwups in soldering and wiring. [link]
But don't sweat it man, just scream it out, grab a beer or a fat one and chill. We all have to make mistakes to learn, everyone here has dumb shit we can claim too. Some cost us more or less and some cost us in different ways. It sucks no matter what though, that never changes. Also get a simulator and a cable to connect your tx to your PC to control it or the simulator time will be useless. Use the sim to practice risky moves before actually trying them in a flight and also as a way to fly when you're grounded for repairs or whatever. It's not the same feeling, but the practice will pay off in saved components very quickly I can promise you. My last tip is to get a hands free magnifying lens: either something in a stand/clamps to your desk or a headmounted setup like this for $10 on Amazon Prime:
I bought all my materials from Amazon and I've done about 3 Mods.
Heres a little documentation of my 1st one.
Seiko 5 Mod; PAM Cali Dial & Sword Hands & some more photos
Some things that I suggest you get before starting.
Magnifier Opposed to a Loupe this works well and is rather convenient with 3 magnifications
Precision Tweezers You need, need this. Seriously
Crystal Press Self explanatory
Dust Blower Often times you get dust on your dial while it sits, so get this to get rid of it
Hand Press I don't particularly like the hand remover included but it does the job just fine
Cushioned Holder I used this to hold the movement taking it out of the case
Silicone Grease Used to grease the gaskets for increased water resistance
Caseback Ball One of the best things you can get to be honest, it removes most casebacks
Movement Holder To uhh, hold the movement
Precision Screwdrivers You need this to unscrew the movement from the holders, also good tool to use for when you take apart movements to learn
Hypo Cement Used this for bezel attachments for when you change em up
Let me know if you've any questions, I'd be willing to help you out and answer them to the best of my ability :)
I've just started painting as well, and I'll second that the initial investment is rather high. I'm probably in 50$+ in just painting gear now...
First. Watch some youtube tutorials. I found Miniature Painting 101 by Miniwargamer Jay to be very helpful.
I only went high end on the paints and washes that are my primary color scheme. They're a mix of P3 / Citadel paints. The pots are pricy, but they do go a long way.
I grabbed several brush sets and a 12 pack of basic color acrylic paints from a craft store. You'll want mainly fine tips a a few small flat brushes. These paints are more for mixing (white and black) and areas I only need a little paint.
I used a Krylon white primer for plastics, mainly because I had it. Just use very quick sprays to keep a very light coat.
I built a work-rack out of a piece of 2x6, some large nails, and some nickels as I didn't have the right size washers handy... Drill holes in wood large just enough to hold the nails, super-glue the nickels on top of the nail to give a larger base (I used Gorilla-glue). Then use sticky-tack to hold the miniature on. This lets you use the nail to hold and manuever the miniature during painting, then just set it in the wood to dry... Hopefully this link works:
I got a set of Magnifying goggles from amazon for 8 dollars. Their not the most comfortable things to wear, but they really help with the fine detail work...
Overall, be patient, take your time, and enjoy, and you can make some beautiful pieces of art.
^Item&nbsp;Info | Bot&nbsp;Info | Trigger
I have one of these in the office and one in the garage. Hands free, it has extra flip down lenses and an LED light.
This one. for $13. Works great!
Or... Better yet, a two-pack for $16.
Bonus tip - I pair it with a head magnifier/lamp that I had for my cross-stitch hobby. I'm sure I look ridiculous, but it works!
Yeah, that's the good stuff. Just keep practicing, you'll get better quickly.
Also, I use one of these, it's been very helpful:
I don't work with anything smaller then 0603 resistors on drivers.
But hot air and solder paste is very forgiving. You get them close enough and the surface tension of the solder just sucks everything into place.
I'm very nearsighted and I still use a $10 magnifying visor and this microscope thing I recently got for $30-ish on BG.
Try these bad boys out, or something like em
I just went over to it and picked it up and was surprised by how light it is. I think the wider base gives it better stability than the old one I was using but the old one might actually be heavier. I just weighed them, the new one is 13.3 ounces, and the old is 12.2. So not much difference in weight, but the new one sits higher and has the wider base, that makes it more useful to me.
I just remembered this:
The helping hand in that picture might be worth pursuing. Whoever's desk this is has obviously spent a lot of time perfecting his workstation. I'd imagine he's gone through a few helping hands before settling on the one on his current desk.
I will say that this:
has been my single most useful DIY helper....
Just a magnifying visor and this aptly named brush
I've never used it, so, I didn't want to just launch in with a bunch of advice. If it was me, I'd use a magnifying visor and little tools like that.
You may need to lubricate the tools so they don't stick to the green stuff. Water works for Plasticine, not sure about, epoxy. (E: as below, Vaseline for green stuff, apparently) First, I would smooth the overall shape. Use a concave tool for convex edges, like biceps, and a convex tool for concave edges like saddles. Then, I would take a skinny tool and incise simple details, like those scales. Incision also makes little ridges, so you need to smooth those down while you work. You may have a limited time, so rather than get caught up in details and then have it dry half done, I'd work the whole thing all at once and get increasingly granular.
At the end of the day, if my level of control was not good enough to get the contouring and texturing that I wanted, I would try to design a solution that would still look good with the shaping ability that I knew I had, which is why I suggested scars or something.
Again, this is clay, not sure about epoxy. Your overall design is rad. This will look bad ass when it's painted, no matter how close you get your sculpting to your desired result.
E: tutorial for green stuff which says pretty much what I did lubricate with Vaseline, not water.
I already wear glasses, so I use something like this.
I have these, I use them all the time, they are not expensive and they work.
My eyesight is my biggest challenge. Another year and I'll probably need these
When I first got my machine it would get really cranky after 50+rows even with weights. I found I had to spray some lube on rag and wipe down the bed pretty often. The machine was so dry I needed to replace 20+ years of lubricant with fresh.
What weight yarn are you using? I believe this is a standard gauge machine, sport is the heaviest recommended weight. Start with a fingering weight like KP palette. You may want to get some inexpensive acrylic for your test runs. Michael's sells their "loops and threads" in fingering for $2.00 for ~400 yards. I like the Tamm Astracryl and Tamm Bebe yarns. Knit Knack Shop has them, though they have a terrible site.
Also check each needle, a broken latch will cause all kinds of problems. I bought this Magnifier for less then $10 It's a Godsend for checking needles and fixing dropped stitches.
The mechanical parts of the machine are extremely robust. It's most likely just tuning at this point.
very nice work on it, im building a near strait build of this same kit and am still finishing up the finer details on the weapons as i got most of the rest of it done. i am just really waiting on my MR. metallics paints i order to get here so i can finish blade as i want to make it into a black blade.
the line work is very nicely done on this mama mobile suit (after all Amida is a mother/hot mom/ word not appropriate for a discussion form that children may see.) what did you use to make them as i use this badass TAMIYA 87154 Tamiya HG Pointed Brush Extra Fine.
after having several problems doing lines with a gundam marker getting clogged up (i did not know you should top coat it first if you paint the kit, and at 29 years of age i was around for the first golden age of mecha kits in the united states, and how i miss those yea it was my first time lining, and i had built around 30 gunpla kits in that golden age and proceeded to break them, repeatedly playing with them but i was between the a immature 13-15 year old at the time. i had also built about 7ish zoid models under my belt as i dont quite remember what ones i had aside form liger zero X and the command wolf.
my gundam gusion rebake test colors was my first time lineing the kit and i didn not know you were supos to topcoat once before doing the lines with a GM(i am just getting a bit of irony form this) so ireally messed up the markers i was using. then i whent and used a gundam brush type marker on a straite build kit i had done and did not like how it turned and i had already bought this bad boyTAMIYA 87154 Tamiya HG Pointed Brush Extra Fine and if it was not both sacrilegious and against my religion i was religion i would paint this brush gold, mount it on an raised stone alter. i would then worship it as if it was the eternal god itself, i would bring animal sacrifices to it as well. but i am being a bit goofy cause my sleep meds are kicking in so i will need to retire soon but i want to finish my critique of your work..
you did a great job posing the you matched the box perfectly and i love the little stand you created for it. what did you use for a top coat? i am planing on looking into more kinds of coating to go with my mettle finish (i like my gundams to be so shiney they blind the enemy as the sun glints off them.
hears a few tips for your next strait build:
first off you should invest in a small amount atleast gold sliver and black paint, with any other color you happen to like. the silver is for the edge of the blade weapons. gold is nice to have around as you can paint the yellow plastics some kits have with it to give it better look the using just using the plastic. you really need to prime these parts first if you paint them, but if your painting the howl kit its a good idea to use primer first. as for the black well you can use it with the god of detail brush i have been talking about in this review
to get great lines on pritty much any kit. but it also serves a more intresting perpose. insted of useing the eye stickers you first paint the eyes black, then using what ever color you prefer that day paint in the eyes, however this does require a magnification device to really do this technique well. i recamend using a head magnafire as you dont have to be carful of bumbing magnafing glass as you work. this is the one i use [link]
if you end up buying this style i strongly recamend wearing a banana around your head for comfort reasons. magnification also makes doing lines easier.
sorry thins got goofy i cant wait to see what you do next.
You'll need magnification and task lighting
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
I just got one of these
Similar price, 3 different magnifying modes.
> Massdrop has an online configurator which will serve most of your purposes, but if you want to do anything fancy with layering or whatever, you will need to know enough about programming to hack the firmware yourself.
How have you hacked the firmware? I've considered making a simplified layer control scheme -- I think the layer stack is confusing for extremely little benefit, and a more "television channel-like" control scheme would be better.
And I agree with you about the SMD diodes being a pain. I wouldn't say they require "extreme dexterity" -- if you get a head-mounted magnifier (with an LED -- it's key for seeing the lines on the diodes), and some tweezers, it's just painstaking work, not impossible.