A quick comment about Sea Monkeys / Aqua Dragons (That they are brands of Brine Shrimps).
If your brother hatchery, includes "Artemia" (That is the scientific name for Brine Shrimps / Sea Monkeys / Aqua Dragon ) then I am preaching to the choir. So sorry about it. =^^=
But if he does not, then you might want to check out what I wrote below. ;)
Being Brine Shrimps they are very peculiar compared to Fresh Water Shrimp and Salt Water Shrimp. So your brother might or might not know these peculiarities specific for Brine Shrimps. Such often, no other kind of organisms (including other types of Shrimps) could not survive in their brine environment.
There are two resources that I often see recommended when someone will start setting a large tank of Brine Shrimp pets ( Sea Monkeys / Aqua Dragons ):
(1) http://artemiaaspets.com/docs/ArtemiaDIYFormulas.html
(2) Sea Monkeys & Brine Shrimp: A Keepers Handbook
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ILXY01I?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details
And another resource from this group that could help setting a tank close to what you showed in your last posting:
(3)https://www.reddit.com/r/SeaMonkeys/comments/iqpj1k/prep_begins_to_move_pink_salt_tank_to_10l_tank/
If you know how to make salt water tanks, you might not need the resource in (1), although there is additional good information about "artemia" in the same website.
Something I learn recently is when starting a tank, you want to start with low salinity (Just a portion of the levels of Salt Water) because that help with their initial growth and size. In a salinity term, this means between 10 ppt and 15 ppt (parts per thousand).
But in a few weeks, you want to start raising slowly the salinity levels, up to salt water levels ( At least up to 25 ppt, ideally between 30 ppt and 40 ppt ) that will prevent some diseases that they are prone to, the out of control growth of bacteria and help them with their molting. (Shedding their shells).
The second resource (2), I got mad when I learned about this booklets (that of course, now I own it). Because it had most of the information that took me over a year to collect, and learn through trials and tribulations. :P
But as they say "Life and Learn". ^_^
Over the last year, I decided to do a Video Log to capture my experiences learning about Sea Monkeys and the other side tracks that I got on that process.
And although I do not use sand or gravel, based in your previous posting, we have someone in this group that has set a tank very close to what you were describing. Including Sand and Gravel. As I mention as (3).
So you might want to check out those postings to see an approach close to what you were asking on setting a larger tank.
I think you will have everything for a great start!
My only concern is the changing of water.
>> My Opinion about Water Changes
As the one I consider my Sea Monkey Mentor told me: "Sea Monkeys do not like changes, the more change their environment, the greater chance something might go wrong".
I started my first tanks on June 2019.
Based on my Videos, looks like I did not try my first water change until September 5, 2020. ^_^
I only kept refilling the evaporate water with fresh water. (Since salt does not evaporate).
But a lot of people favors the changing water, but I think weekly might be a bit often.
>> A Resource That I would Suggest
Knowing the level of knowledge that you are interested, I am not sure if you would have access to the download version, but I would strongly suggest to get the following booklet if you can:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ILXY01I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_d_asin_title_o09?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The main reason is that will explain about the Nitrogen Cycle with respect of the Brine Shrimps pets, and I think it mentions why you do not want to remove the dead Brine Shrimps (Sea Monkeys) especially not removing the females that have died with eggs in their brood pouch.
As reference I did not learn about this booklet until after a year since I started my Sea Monkeys tanks. I was glad to have found it, but I was mad that most of what I learned through that year from the internet in bits and pieces was already in that booklet.
Dx Dx Dx
If I had that booklet back on June 2019, it could have save me from making a few videos that at this point the information is obsolete, or plain wrong.
:D xD xD
>> Careful With The Common Sense Based On Another Animals
Also, the booklet let me understand that Brine Shrimps biology, often goes against the "common sense" of the other animals. Even of close relatives like Cheery Shrimps. So be careful with your assumptions based in other animals.
As example, many first time owners of Sea Monkeys think, that if a Male couples with a Female that will make her pregnant.
That is a wrong assumption.
Females do not need Males at all to produce eggs, or babies by live bearing.
The 'If', 'When' and 'How' babies are born from their mother is determine by multiple factors in the environment.
The main role of the Males is to provide genetic diversity, that in the long run makes the colony stronger.
>> Why You Might Want To Start With Lower Salinity That The Booklet Suggests
Oh, if you get the booklet, I would use the start salinity between 9 ppt - 15 ppt, that is the average salinity that Sea Monkeys and Aqua Dragons start, instead of the 30+ ppt that the booklet suggest.
There is a logic why the Brine Shrimp pets (Like Sea Monkeys and Aqua Dragons) start with so low salinity.
Yes, higher the salinity, the more protected from harmful organism the Brine Shrimps are, but also, more their metabolism need to be use to keep the salt out of their bodies. So the higher the salinity, the slower they grow, and the smaller they grow.
And at some point, they need to use so much metabolism to keep the salt of their bodies, that they stop reproducing.
But that does not happens until a few times the "optimal high level" of salinity, that is about 45 ppt.
That is why Sea Monkeys Food formula, add a little bit of salt each time you feed them.
So when the first generation of Sea Monkeys that have been focusing most of their metabolism to grow (that is why the low salinity) because the salt in the food, the salinity would have risen to more secure levels (over 20 ppt) soon after they have finished growing.
>> Next
I think I mentioned all that I thought it could be useful for you at this point.
I will give feedback when you start setting up to start.
Or if you have any concerns before that. ^_^
>> Before the answers, two resources that you might be interested:
By your posting, I see that you are genuinely concern about your pets and you would like to find the answers to your questions sure that they are based on facts.
The last time I had Sea Monkeys, was in the 1990s, and I went into a Sea-Monkeys-Less hiatus until June 2019.
This time around I realized I have forgotten many things that I knew from the 1990s, so effectively I started from scratch, but this time around the access to information was much better, although most of it was based on myths and was not correct.
(1) Fortunately through the year, I was able to get enough information so my colonies did and still doing good.
A little after a year I learn about this booklet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ILXY01I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_d_asin_title_o09?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That I was glad that I found, because had most of the answers to questions I had about Sea Monkeys from the point of view that they are a kind of Brine Shrimps. ;)
But I was upset that I took a freaking year to get this booklet (I purchased the downloadable version) to find out, that most of the knowledge I gathered through the internet in bits and pieces through the whole year was already in that booklet, and more! -_- xD
So, that might be a resource that you might be interested. ^_^
(2) The other resource that I was going to suggest, since I forgot so much from the 1990s, is a Video Log that I created to capture what I consider new information for myself. That I am glad that I did, because after a year and a half, I had to go back to the Video Log a few time to find information that I knew I already had.
So, if you want to check it out, here is the link with the Video Log that has all the videos I have created in the last year and a half:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCFhT1N8oizqhOMb590CrmdA/videos
1st WARNING: Although I have tried to put in the title of each video what it is about, and maybe expand on that in the Description of the video, as you can see, I have the bad habit to present many thing in one shot. (What I call a "Core Dump"). So like my writing, I am very bad in making my videos "brief", "concise", "to the point" or things like that. =^^=
2nd WARNING: As I mention, I started mostly from scratch knowledge wise when I started my tanks on June 2019. So the older the videos, the greater the chance of what I share in there, is wrong, incomplete or obsolete.
But at least, most of the videos that I share after December 2019, I feel confident that most of the information in those are things that I still use today, because most of it still relevant. ^_^
>> Now for the answer:
-- Short answer:
They will be fine, is part of the Brine Shrimps adaptability.
-- Longer answer:
I remember that in one of my reddit replies, I included the issue of eggs colors, some ways ways they could reproduce, but it was quite long writing because I also mention about eggs going into hibernation, and all the ways this could happen because the very harsh environments their group (Brine Shrimps) evolved from.
So you are lucky I did not find it, so you will not need to sift through my verbose to find your answers. =^^=
The environment determines the 'if', 'how' and 'when' they are born.
The most signifiant factors in the environment look to be: Oxygen Levels, Temperature, Food Availability and Salinity. (I would say in that order of importance).
Sea Monkeys (Brine Shrimp in general) can be born alive from the Mother or they can be release as eggs.
And if they are in eggs (including if the Mother dies with the eggs in the brood sack) again the "when" is determined bu the environment.
If one or more factors of the environment might be bad for the babies, then eggs might go into "hibernation" until those factors have improved so the babies have a better chance to survive when they hatch.
Thanks to that adaptability evolved from the harsh environment of the wild brine shrimps, someone though about making some hybrids of Artemia Salina the pets that we know today as Sea Monkeys. ^_^
I found an article that mentions the color of the eggs, but instead of brown and white, replace those with "darker color" and "lighter color". I have noted that the color of the eggs can vary depending on what they eat, and in the illumination where the tanks. Especially that a lot of people are using these LED multicolor lights. I prefer my LED Full Spectrum lamp to be closest to the natural sunlight color so what I look at does not get distorted by "disco lights". ;)
Ok, that simplify things.
If you feed your fish as soon you hatch them (brine shrimp nauplii), then you do not need to worry much about food. Because they do not eat at all for the first 5 days.
If you wait until they grow to juveniles (that they have transformed enough that you start to see the ripple of their wings when swimming ), then food is a factor.
Although I focus them as pets, I learned a lot from breeder for fish feed.
There are multiple factors that prompts how fast/many or slow/few hatch.
I presume you have heard all of these already, but I mention them for benefit of future people looking for similar information, and you can verify that my information is similar or not to your knowledge.
Before I got into things that you already know, I will share a booklet that I found, that although I was glad to learn about it, I was upset that in addition to the new things I learned from it, I invested over a year learning things that already were in this booklet. =^^=
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ILXY01I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_d_asin_image_o09?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The 4 factors I remember from raising Brine Shrimp pets have been Oxygen (Aeration); Temperature; Light; and Salinity.
Although is not as critical for pet owners, (Because normally the kits already take care of them) feed breeders also mention pH; Stocking Density; Hatching Container; and Incubation Period.
Focusing on "naupulii" (right after hatching):
- Salinity:
Most breeders recommend at least 25 ppt (parts per thousand), but looks closer to Ocean Water level is preferred (Between 35 ppt and 40 ppt ).
- Light:
Most sources indicate that light is necessary for better hatching right, but most of the time is mentioned also that helps to keep the temperature stable. So I have not found a clear source that would indicate if just light (Like an LED source) would help with the hatching rate.
- Temperature:
Most breeders prefer for the water to be 80+ F ( 26.7+ C ), closer to the range of 82-84 F ( 27.7-28.9 C ).
- Aeration:
Since the hatching period is relatively short, and since there is no chance that air will get into the nauplii (issue that could happen when brine shrimp are older). The common recommendation, is to do vigorous bubbling such the eggs move all around in the water column, and that the smaller the bubbles, the better because they dissolve oxygen better into the container.
- pH:
7.5-8 pH is recommended.
- Stocking Density:
I presume this concern breeders?
"Artemia nauplii are maintained in the larval culture tank at densities of 0.5 to 2 per ml"
​
- Hatching Container:
This statement summarize what I have seen from multiple sources: "The best hatching results are achieved in conical bottom containers, aerated from the center bottom"
- Incubation Period:
At least 24 hours recommended, some recommendations go up to 36 hours.
There are two resources that I often see recommended when someone will start setting a large tank of Brine Shrimp pets ( Sea Monkeys / Aqua Dragons ):
(1) http://artemiaaspets.com/docs/ArtemiaDIYFormulas.html
(2) Sea Monkeys & Brine Shrimp: A Keepers Handbook
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ILXY01I?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details
For starters do you have a refractometer or a hydrometer?
If you plan to transfer your Aqua Dragons, you want to have the salinity and temperature as close to the original tank as possible.
About the salinity mixture, often I see the link below shared for scaling up a Brine Shrimp pets tank:
http://artemiaaspets.com/docs/ArtemiaDIYFormulas.html
Also, for long term care, this booklet has been suggested often too:
https://www.amazon.com/Sea-Monkeys-Brine-Shrimp-including-ebook/dp/B00ILXY01I/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=sea+monkeys+book&qid=1599595634&sr=8-1
You are fortunate! I do not think many of us have access to bottled sea water! (Although I never have asked for it in the pet store that I got my testing kits. )
If by chance, someone could lend you a Refractometer, I would love to know the salt levels of the water. Or a hydrometer if it would work with your tank. The fist time I got a hydrometer, my typical Sea Monkeys tanks where too small for it, since this version of a hydrometer needs to float to take a measurement. Even in my 48 oz (1420 ml) is too shallow for this hydrometer! 0o
About the concern about the salinity, they can survive in an ample range of levels, as long is not too sharp of a change.
Reading what you wrote, I would mention certain things that I learned over the last year, that laters on I was pulling my hair, when I found a nice little booklet that had in it, a good deal of what I had to learn through trials and tribulations. xD I purchase it for about 6 USD in amazon.
Anyhow, lets start...
-->> Salinity.
The average Sea Monkeys set and Aqua Dragons set starts1 ppt with salinity levels between 10 ppt and 20 ppt. (Part per thousand).
Wow, and this is the first time I check the equivalence of Salinity PPT and Salinity Percentage. 0o1 ppt = 1,000 ppm = 1000 mg/L = 0.1 percent.To be sure I did not make mistakes I tried a web app converter: https://www.unitsconverters.com/en/Partsperthousand-To-Salinitypercentage/Unittounit-4921-4923
Based in this quote:"Whilst brine shrimp can withstand a wide range of salinity levels (25%-250%) that doesn’t mean that they like or are able to cope with big variations or sudden drastic changes in salinity levels. The best range for them is between 30-35 ppt."
That would translate into that they can survive in salinity level of 2.5 ppt to 2500 ppt.
Wow, I knew they could survive in high salinity, but I did not realized that high! 0o
BUT AGAIN: "that doesn’t mean that they like or are able to cope with big variations or sudden drastic changes"
This is true for Salinity as well as for Temperature. I live in a region that the Winter Season can bring in Snow. Last year I started my tanks late Spring on the window sill. And although looks like some types of Brine Shrimps can survive between 62 F ( 17 C ) up to 95 F ( 35 C), when the temperatures started to change more sharply between day and night at the beginning of Fall, my Sea Monkeys starter to die. After moving them into a spot that the temperature is more stable all year around (and away of the direct flow of A/Cs or Heaters), in the last year my colonies have survived as low a 68 F ( 20 C ) and as high as 90 F ( 32 C ).
-->> Aerating.
If you ever plan to use an air stone, this is what I suggested in another posting:
vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv
Get an air pump that you can regulate the air flow:
https://www.reddit.com/r/SeaMonkeys/comments/ik0f8h/everything_finally_arrived_d/
If you cannot control the air flow, then set a "bleed valve" to control the air flow without damaging your air pump:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTHyXM48sf0
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
And expanding on what you already mentioned, quoting from the same posting:
vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv
The main purpose of the air pump is to create water circulation and to break surface tension, to improve the interchange of gases between the water and the atmosphere.
Before I started using the "bleed valve", because even my air pump was the smallest I found, the air flow was still quite strong. So I settled between 5 minutes to 15 minutes each day, per tank.
The reason I did not let it go longer, was the Brine Shrimp breeders often said, not to bubble too hard when you are starting a tank for two main reason:
(1) The bubbles might push the babies against the dry part of the tank, and they will get stuck there and die. Like with time, even in optimal air flow, you might see food sticking close to the surface of the tank.
(2) If you have an air stone that makes the bubbles so small that look like "foam", besides the problem in (1), at some point the Sea Monkeys; because they are filter feeders; they might get big enough, that the smaller bubbles can get into their "gut chamber" and eventually kill them. Before I learn this, I was getting adults with "shining parts" and they had problems swimming. ( I do not recall any surviving after air got inside them).
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
-->> The Booklet.
This is the booklet I mentioned:
Franklin, David. Sea Monkeys & Brine Shrimp: Owner's advice including eggs, feeding, hatching, breeding and how to keep them healthy . Adhurst Publishing Ltd. Kindle Edition.
Here is the Amazon link I used to get it: