This product was mentioned in
with an average of
getting any dac would help compared to shitty onboard audio, but amp doesnt matter too much for this
source: had m50x and shitty onboard laptop sound, bought a random cheap dac from amazon and it sounded loads better
The optical connection would be using the same DAC chip as the USB so it shouldn't sound much better or worse than USB.
This might be a good buy: [link] it has good amazon reviews but I haven't heard it.
You would need another device that converts USB to Coaxial, like a FiiO E10k, Topping D10, or Schiit Eitr.
Or even this cheap thing off Amazon
For the physical connection I'm using this adapter which has worked great. Sends the audio over USB to the adapter and then outputs via coax cable to my Schitt Bifrost 2.
I feel like this might work.
Does your sound bar have a line in? Might be better just to do analog to analog.
Lol, I misread your question. You can buy a USB DAC, like this one is you're just looking for a cheap solution. [link]
Connect the USB to your PC and the RCA connectors to the speaker's input.
You can use the 3D effects with any dac headphone combination on the PS5. Some DACs aren’t compatible with the PS5, but if that’s the case the solution is to use an optical to usb converter. You use an optical cable from your dac and connect it to the converter. Then from the converter you use a usb cable which connects to the PS5. This will allow you to still get the 3d audio.
I do this with my DT 1990s and my FH5 pro. Here is the converter I use.
Do you need a dac? Honestly, most computers/cell phones are "good enough" at the budget level
If you need a dac for connection options, two ways to go.
Buy an Amp with a dac built in (SMSL AD18, for example)
Or buy the SA50 and get a Signstek DAC or similar (I own the Signstek, it is fine)
This is the lowest priced one I can find. It only does 16/48 but that shouldn't matter unless you're paying for a hi-res streaming service or you're using your computer to play Blu-rays in a HT. It's pretty rare that you'll be encountering audio quality higher than CD.
There are a literal ton on Amazon. Search usb to optical converter. Here's a well rated, cheap one.
Read on the ps5 subreddit that someone used one of these plugged in to the ps5 and the optical (or coaxial) output to their other dac worked.
For people with schiit stacks/jds atom UAC2 DAC, the above would be the cheapest option I think.
Get a pair of Edifier R1280DB speakers. You can connect your Xbox to the RCA inputs, and your computer to the optical input. The remote can switch between them. If your motherboard doesn't have an optical output, you will need a USB to optical converter like this one: Amazon.com: Signstek HiFi USB to Coaxial S/PDIF Converter Convert Digital to Analogue Signal Mini USB DAC PCM: Home Audio & Theater
Looks like both of these products are discounted right now.
Not sure if this is available in the UK's Amazon, but this cheap USB DAC will provide an optical out for your PC. You can go PC > dac via USB > Denon via optical. That would then allow the Denon to do the decoding with its onboard dac.
Some older laptops had a dual purpose headphone jack. It'd serve analog and digital data out of that port.
There's no optical out on that sound card. He just posted that he's using RCA. This DAC should work to send pc audio to the Yamaha. I have it for my work laptop and it helped clear up some muddy sound, but I haven't used the optical as a transport.
So in theory I could go with this cheap converter and the difference in audio won't likely be audible?
I'm having a hard time justifying buying something like the Topping D10 as it costs pretty what my Onkyo a-9010 cost me
Same! Tenkeyless is definitely the way to go if you don't already have one, unless you use the numpad for buying (which I don't obviously).
Also this is what I use for a DAC so I can plug my headphones in on my desk instead of running the cord to my computer: [link]
Why not use a usb to optical adapter? THen any board should work fine. How about this one [link]
>Also, what would be a recommended way to connect my phone to the receiver via bluetooth?
Really you should just nab a Chromecast Audio for this. Uses your wifi network and sidesteps a lot of the pitfalls of bluetooth.
That Behringer will be fine. You should just use it to feed the optical input on your Marantz imo. This Signstek will also work. The deficiencies in your speakers and room will completely overshadow the specifics of using the internal DAC on the Marantz vs x y or z external DAC.
depending on the DAC, a 3.5mm to RCA may not be necessary. for instance, this can go from PC via USB to the speakers via RCA
You don't physically need one. You will be able to connect the digital output of your PC directly to the Griffin and get sound out of your speakers. Depending on the card you're using though, you might get a much better sound with an external DAC.
This is the one I reference in my previous post.
~~I have the AS301 as well...great unit! Does your mobo have optical out? That's how I had my AS301 hooked up to my PC (with Asus Z170 board) when they shared the same room. Bypasses all sound processing on computer and instead lets the integrated amp do the signal processing and amplification. Much cleaner.~~
Reading comprehension would help me out. I just read your PC doesn't have optical out. No coax either?
You could try something like a USB to Coax/Optical converter for cheap, allowing your amp to still be the DAC.
Recently I moved some things around in my house, and now have my pc in my room with my music setup. I recently purchased some Klipsch speakers for my turntable, and would like to also run my pc to the receiver as well.
The two options I have is to either purchase a 25ft aux cable and run it from the pc to the receiver (opposite side of room), or to purchase a USB>Optical DAC and run the optical cable I already have (because unfortunately i purchased a MOBO with no optical out -.-)
I am wondering if there are any pro's or con's to either. The aux cable is obviously cheaper than the DAC ($13 vs $25), but is there a reason to go with the DAC instead?
DAC I'm considering - [link]
I can only guess they call it a DAC because China lol. There are a ton of variations of the Muse Dac, like this Signstek that offers digital passthrough as well as an actual conversion to RCA outputs.
is this dac worth buying?
my vali is dac less and i just want something so i can use a shorter rca cable.
oh and where can i find short rca cables on amazon. like 6 inch cable, there gonna be stacked.
headphone : ath m50x, ath m50s (tobe sold?), he400i
Posted this in a separate thread, but got removed because I didn't read the sidebar. Derp. Anyway:
I have a good quality HiFi Digital Audio Tape player and wanted to transfer some of my DAT tapes to FLAC files on my hard drive. Unfortunately, my DAT player doesn't have any USB out. It has analog out, S/PDIF out, 3.5mm headphone out, and AES/EBU out. What would be the best way to get the DAT's onto my hard drive (under $50). I was looking at: [link] , but wasn't sure.
I picked one of these up a while back and its worked beautifully for me. USB input and just about every type of output you could want.
It may be ugly but its small enough that it can sit away from the computer back behind things. It has a big red power LED on it which could be annoying if you set it up right near your monitor but that's an issue easily solved with electrical tape.
I ordered the SHP9500 for $65 on Amazon they should arrive in 12 days. I am upgrading from a Sennheiser HD 555 I figured $64 wasnt bad since the HD555 ear pads are $32 and mine is totally destroyed,.
The real question is how much different in quality would it make if I upgraded my Asus Xonar DG sound card to this
There are DACs which take USB in and do analog out. There are also DACs which do USB in and digital SPDIF out which is what I found. Unfortunately it's one of the chipsets effected by the mono bug in 6.0.1 so I've been looking for something new.
I am using this DAC here. It is suffering from the mono bug. I haven't bothered to do anything about it because I didn't have it all working up until a few days ago but now that it's mostly installed I'm going to look for an alternative
This and you can choose any amp you want. I'm using it as a intermediate between my carputer & C-DSP. It works great! if you find an amp with digital in. you won't even go to analog till the amp.
I may be getting out over my skiis here (we're past my level of knowledge) but I think that, to get a non-headphone signal into the coaxial input on your stereo, you're talking about a) micro USB to USB adapter, then b) USB OTG cable (or maybe those first two can be combined) into c) something that will take the USB input and output to coaxial (I googled and saw this on amazon: [link] )
but where I'm losing it is understanding if that means the amazon widget is doing the conversion, or your Marantz is doing the conversion?
Hi, I'm looking for something I can use for USB (phone), TV, and maybe blue tooth input to an integrated amp. FM Tuner would be nice too. I think I'm looking for Pre Amp but could be wrong.
I'm also wondering about an inexpensive DAC to plug a phone into most any stereo. Would this (Signstek HIFI USB to Coaxial S/PDIF Converter Decoder Convert Digital to Analogue Signal Mini USB) work ? [link]
I have an Exposure XX integrated amp from way back so it only has RCA input.
I would get a used one or what I actually would do seeing how you don't need a phono input or preamp, is get the SMSL SA-60 and This dac...[link] ...Thats gonna be around $100
You can get a dac and make it easier to hook up to your pc...also it will make sure no interference comes through...[link] ...Of course you will need an rca patch cord and speaker wire.
you can buy this and make it easier to hook up, plus it sounds damn good for the money...[link] ...And an rca cord and 14 guage speaker wire...banana plugs are optional.
It will work but I have no idea about how it sounds...You should check the reviews of it in the link...also check other alternative...there is an external dac that is only $25 that I can say is very good sound quality for the price...[link]
you could probably get something like this [link]
Most PCs these days use audio built in to the motherboard, unless you customize one.
Anything specific you looking for or want to do?
If it where me, I'd get this for $24 to see what happens...[link] ...I started with this one and its good for the amount it costs.
From what I understand you'll have to use its software...basically it will work I imagine but it isn't the tool for the job...If you want a dac that doesn't cost an arm and leg....try this...[link] ...This is good for the money...I had one.
I like this cheap swiss army knife of a DAC from Muse:
I used it for a bit, and it wasn't bad, it suffered from interference from my phone from time to time. I like it because it offers any output you might need, so in a pinch it works quite well.
I would like to see a review of it.
The AS501 doesn't have a USB Dac. And computer dacs are notorious for their noise. The OP needs a USB to optical converter.
Or his original ideal in getting a USB to line out DAC is fine.
Or just get an Apple audio dongle. They're suppose to sound great.
Like /u/ulgreswo, I used a different card; the Xonar DG. In my case, it did work under linux alright, but I'd always have to tamper with a setting under alsamixer in the terminal to get it to output sound on any fresh install of linux. Not sure if the DGX would be any different in that regard.
Also the audio-quality wasn't really all that spectacular, as I would still get buzzing and beeps due to interference from the LAN port.
In the end, I sold it and instead replaced it with this external USB DAC (Digital to Analog Converter), which was very affordable, and put out excellent sound. This particular DAC interested me due to the well written review on the Amazon page from Jayteck, where he describes replacing the capacitors on the board for even better sound quality. I followed the instructions contained in the comments, and found that it does indeed sound quite superb when these modifications are done (though it sounded better than the Xonar DG even without the mod).
Alternatively, I've also read great things on various audio enthusiast forums about this Behringer DAC, which is also quite affordable.
Due to using USB, both of those DAC's are plug-n-play with Linux, and require absolutely no configuration to get working. The only potential downside is that they do not have microphone inputs, and only output stereo audio.
My computer tower has an optical-out built in to its onboard sound card, but my laptop doesn't - so for my laptop, I use this for recording to non-NetMD devices : https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-p13n1_0?cv_ct_cx=usb+dac&dchild=1&keywords=usb+dac&pd_rd_i=B00FEDHHKE&pd_rd_r=b243b981-5845-4438-b1c4-9a31efbe637f&pd_rd_w=HqjMn&pd_rd_wg=w0962&pf_rd_p=1da5beeb-8f71-435c-b5c5-3279a6171294&pf_rd_r=ZDM0QRXVX47V9R0QJH2K&psc=1&qid=1594544872&sr=1-1-70f7c15d-07d8-466a-b325-4be35d7258cc
I also have a JE-320 deck that's hooked up to a CD player and a turntable - so I can make mix discs comprising of tracks from vinyl records, CDs, digital files from my computer, YouTube, Spotify, etc etc
Signstek HiFi USB to Coaxial S/PDIF Converter Convert Digital to Analogue Signal Mini USB DAC PCM [link]
I got this $26 DAC for Windows after seeing some favorable reviews and it's pretty good. YMMV.
Yea all works fine. I ended up with this one https://www.amazon.ca/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=usb+to+optical&qid=1608250983&s=electronics&sr=1-5
Can use 3D sound with my amp/dac with no issues with the usb to optical converter.
USB to coax on one of them https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE
I'm glad I could provide some inspiration! I personally went with the Beam for minamlism. I was really torn on going for this or Audioengine A5's. I already had another Beam and a One so I really wanted to expand on that without getting the speakers and an Amp like you said.
Only my PS4 works with it right now but I'm thinking about ordering this USB DAC off Amazon and running it to a 3 input 1 output spdif switch. This way I can switch between the Mac and PS4 that's coming from the out on my A50's.
I also REALLY want a Sub but my god those are a far reach. $400 feels like a much more proper price but I suspect this is where Sonos is making generous revenue from enthusiasts.
I have this dac ([link]) connectrd to my PS5 via USB and I have to link it to the Hifi zen v2 ([link]). I can’t use directly RCA since it’s hooked to my speakers. Is it possible to transfer RCA to USB B with a cable? Will it work?
What does the amplifier add? I am not the OP, but I am using a little USB DAC without an amplifier to add optical input to my Raspberry Pi:
there are a few that are less expensive
I'm pretty sure the LS50W II use active DSP, meaning any signal that goes into them will be converted to digital. So using a DAC is not a great approach. You would be converting digital to analog, then back to digital, and then back to analog.
Your better option is to get a USB to S/PDIF converter like this one (16-bit, 44.1kHz or 48kHz only) or this one (wider format support but I think it requires a driver).
I bought this and upgraded the capacitors as shown in the top review:
computer to the dac via usb, then RCA cables from the DAC to the CD input on the HK receiver
guys if I buy this... [link]
and I connect him to ps5 than can I connect directly the fidelio X2HR?
> I've got USB ports I could use but would need an adapter and am worried that will affect the sound quality.
Should be fine; digital to digital. [link]
Ended up buying a Signstek HiFi USB to Coaxial S/PDIF Converter to convert USB to optical for my desktop amp -- which doesn't have the best DAC in it, but it's better than the one in the Signstek. As the Signstek also has anolog output, I'm using it to feed my headphone amp. Sound isn't quite as good as the Fiio Dac I was using, but it's still pretty good. At least I know if I buy a new USB-only Mac Mini, I'll still have acceptible sound quality.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FEDHHKE
I’m using this. Works great Signstek HiFi USB to Coaxial... [link]
lol that's a lot of work.
Think i'll just get this one instead. it has an usb input and few reviews are already mentioning it working with the ps5
Setup that I have. UAC1.0 DAC bypass that I use. Basically it acts as a USB to SPDIF/toslink converter for my actual DAC. But it also has DAC functionality, but it’s not the greatest at that function.
Yup, i am trying to find out if its UAC1, since this is what the ps5 supports through USB.
I just fund this one, and there's a guy with a recent a review from November 17th who've connected it with his ps5 with no issues https://www.amazon.ca/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Signstek+HiFi+USB+to+Coaxial+S%2FPDIF+Converter+Convert+Digital+to+Analogue+Signal+Mini+USB+DAC+PCM&qid=1606331425&sr=8-1 Its a bit more expensive so i was hoping my original usb dac in the OP was compatible.
Bought this to add optical to one of my PCs. Works just fine if you need a way to add to your own.
USB connections are finicky. I used to use a USB DAC on my Mac Mini. It would lose it's connection frequently when I had it connected directly to one of the Mac's USB ports. Since I have a monitor with a USB hub built in, I tried connecting it through that. It worked better but not completely devoid of lost connections. Eventually, I went back to using an inexpensive optical Dac connected to the Mac's optical port. The resulting audio is twice as good as the USB Dac.
Unfortunately the new macs have omitted the optical port and USB is the only choice. I think if I were get one, I'd get an USB to optical adapter and stick with an optical connection to my amp. something like this...
Seems a lot of people have trouble with USB connections/Dacs. It also seems like there's some magic involved in getting them to work reliably. Good luck.
On edit, some people have solved their USB connection problems by using an external powered USB hub to connect their amps/Dac. The philosophy being that USB ports on computers are incredibly noisy and can cause problems. Isolating the connection by using a hub can help with that.
Quality would probably be OK if you run really long analog cables. It's not ideal, but it probably shouldn't make much practical difference.
However, for highest quality, I would use the digital inputs that your Cambridge Audio AXR100 has. (Two TOSLINK and one coax SPDIF input on the back, labeled D1, D2, and D3.)
To do this with the dock you linked, you'd need:
This Signstek brand converter has both TOSLINK and coax SPDIF outputs, so it should work as the first component in either of the above.
In both cases, the cable run is longer than the standards say you're supposed to have, but you can extend the range with a repeater. This product is actually a converter but should work as a repeater too.
I have zero experience with the two products I've linked to, so they're really more of an example than an endorsement or personal recommendation. However, they both get good enough ratings, so they're probably decent. There are a bunch of other alternatives too.
Depending on the model of Macbook (or Powerbook, if you're that old lol), you might not even need a DAC. Every Powerbook and Macbook pro produced between 2005 and 2015 has an optical out integrated in to the headphone jack. All you've gotta do is plug it in.
That being said, there are a couple of other ways that you can record to a standard Minidisc recorder from a Mac:
Keep in mind, with a standard MD recorder, you can only record the old fashioned way - just like with a cassette tape, you put the disc in, plug in your source, press record on the device, and press play on the source. And just like with a cassette, you can only record in real time.
There are a few benefits to doing things that way - it allows you to record from literally ANY source (so long as you can get an analog or digital out from it) with the same relative ease as a cassette tape, but obviously with much higher quality. The original intention for this is to allow people to record stuff from the radio, which you can obviously still do doing this... I personally do the modern equivalent (I use my minidisc recorder to record music from Spotify and YouTube).
If you want to be able to plug in your device via USB and record music files to a disc that way, you'll need a NET-MD recorder. In that case, you would plug the device in to your computer, pick whatever music you want, and use software like Web MD to burn your mp3s/FLACs/WAVs/etc to the disc, like on a CD burner. Your R37 does not have the ability to do this, since it's only a standard recorder.
> i also own a komplete audio 6 audio interface which has a spdif in/out but the shape of it is round rather than squared so im a little confused. any help would be appreciated - thanks!
Is this it? https://www.native-instruments.com/en/products/komplete/audio-interfaces/komplete-audio-6/
If so, SPDIF is NOT an optical connector. While it DOES serve the same purpose as Opitcal (It carries digital audio), you can't use the R37 with it, because the R37 doesn't have an SPDIF in/out. You'll need a USB DAC that specifically has Optical out, or you'll need to use one of the analog outs with an AUX cable.
I always prefer optical over RCA because optical does not suffer from electrical interference and just seems like more space age tech which makes me feel fancy. That being said, in a pinch RCA does the job just fine, just dont run it next to anything too high power that can cause interference.
Yes, you can get a USB device like this for your PC/Laptop. Many PCs have optical out already, not many laptops.
For PC I really like VLC for its simplicity, Fubar is much more robust and highly regarded.
The sound quality coming from your Phone/PC/what ever via RCA is gonna depend on the DAC (digital to analog converter) that comes in it. This is the thing that turns 1s and 0s into something audible. PCs and laptops can add a buzz or hum to your sound because of interference caused by these high power devices. If this happens to you then an external DAC can eliminate that. But you if aren't getting unwanted noise in your signal you probably don't need to bother.
*edit - adding Android notes.
As for android, It's probably gonna depend if you want to pay for a service and just use that, like spotify, amazon music, Tidal, YouTube Music Ect. I've tried them all and they are all fine more of less, Tidal usually has a special like a dollar a month for 6 months, a nice way to try it out. Outside payed services/apps I can't recommend much app wise, there are a ton of free ones you can take for for a test drive and see how you like them.
With a USB DAC that has an SPDIF output.
Sound card from Amazon warehouse: [link]
So to avoid hissing, could I plug my computer into this via USB and then run balanced TLR male to XLR female cables from it into the speakers?
It is a kludge but could use something like this with any NUC: [link]
Such device should be even simpler than DACs, because it doesn't even have to convert anything to analog. Here's an example (it's actually also a DAC), though I can't vouch for quality: https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE
Then buy a $25 DAC which may be the level of a DAC that goes inside a Pioneer receiver anyways.
Or get a Chromecast Audio to make any receiver a "network" or "wifi" receiver.
This might work.
The pictures look like it's all digital inputs, but the reviews say it's USB in and optical/coaxial out.
I'm looking for the cheapest way to connect my RCA speakers into my PC while still getting good quality. I know I can get the 3.5mm to RCA and just plug it into my desktop PC's single line out Jack (the integrated sound card doesn't have 5.1... Just three 3.5mm ports).
I was looking at getting a soundcard but it seems like a better idea would be to get USB DAC with a R and L RCA for my Swan M10 speakers.
I am considering:
Signstek USB DAC ([link]) and the Behringer UCA222 ([link]) I
Alright, going with the Q100's as an example, they run you $250. Pick up a refurb AVR from Accessories4Less for $150. That's your $400 budget, and down the line you can properly integrate a sub to that setup.
You can feed an AVR a digital signal like optical (if your pc has an optical output) or use a usb to optical converter such as this one.
[link] just get this
Quick question, if I buy this for my JBL LSR305 speakers, what cables do I need to connect them? [link]
Using this guy here, but it's got the chipset that does mono only on 6.0.1 so I'm looking for an alternative
Muse Mini Dac $25
I have one of these. First dac I bought. Nothing fancy. Much better than on board audio and cheap sound cards I was using. It has optical input.
[link] makes budget dacs, some with optical
Also consider 24 bit DACs. More and more music is being re-released in Higher Resolution 24/96 format. It sounds great. Not much more for a 24 bit dac. They are just bigger FLAC files, or wav files. Blu Ray discs are starting to have more 24 bit audio too.
David Gilmour - "Rattle That Lock" sounds incredible in 24/96
If you want to find out for $25...[link] ...It should help
Thats cheap enough I might just give that a shot. Thanks!
You can try this...[link]
Huh...i would get this...[link]
Here is an inexpensive option...[link]
This may be what you need..[link] ....It was my first dac...I still use it in my bedroom setup
If you want to try a decent dac/amp for $25 ..this is it...[link]
I'll try to sketch it up:
Chromecast -- HDMI --> TV
PS3 -- HDMI --> TV
TiVo -- HDMI --> TV
TV -- Optical Toslink --> DAC
PC -- USB --> DAC
DAC -- RCA --> Preamp
This seems to have all needed inputs and outputs. Although I cannot testify to the quality.
There you can connect the TV(or PS4) to the optical, PC to the USB and if you want this to the coaxial so you could add the option of streaming via bluetooth from your phone/tablet.
This will help you...[link]
The cheapest, decent dac you can get...[link]
So why do audiophiles keep saying you need an amp to drive their full potential? years ago I listened to them and sold my precious lovely xonar DX 112db SNR card. And I bought a Xonar DG 102db snr with headphone amp built in and guess what? was one of the shittiest decisions I ever made. Did you know there was almost no benefit from the xonar DG amp? and the Xonar DX actually sounded significantly better without an amp? makes you wonder right?
What do you think about these? they are actually less SNR than my DG
Try this dac/amp first...its only $25 and if it helps, then pick a more expensive one...[link]
This is your cheapest bet...[link] ...I have and use one
i'd get this dac instead...[link] ..i started out with one...actually still use it in my bedroom