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You can't do anything about the PLA, thats just one of its properties - but you can coat the inside with this stuff - don't let the price scare you thats just an amazon gouger - it normally goes for about $17. its really thins epoxy that flows easily over the surface and seals things up.
There's a product made by smooth-on called XTC-3D that's a 2 part epoxy. You can order it on Amazon.com for pretty cheap. You mix it up and paint it on. It's self levelling, dries in a couple hours, then can be sanded and painted.
IMO it far surpasses the alternatives of glazing putty or some of the other fillers.
Yeah I have seen people praising this stuff for that type of application, but I haven't used it myself yet. My prints that would need it took so long I am honestly a bit scared to try it on them. I guess I should make a quick print that I could test it on.
Pla get very brittle when it's exposed to the elements, like water. You've got two solutions though.
The first is to use petg which is almost as easy as pla to print with. You basically just need higher temperatures. The one down side w petg is it's a little weaker than pla, initially that is. Petg is water proof so over time coming into contact with water will make pla much weaker than petg.
Next you can use a number of different coatings/sealants on the pla. The best would be an epoxy resin coating. They make one specifically for coating 3d prints. It's thinner than most epoxy so it goes on easier and leaves less streaking. A spray on polyurethane would be the easiest option, although poly could crack down the line and expose u prints.
Here's the link to the epoxy I was talking about
There is an epoxy specifically for brushing on to 3D prints in order to fill in gaps between layers and make them smooth. Maybe that would help.
Smooth-On XTC-3D High Performance 3D Print Coating - 24oz. Unit [link]
I'm not fantastic at 3d printing yet, but I highly recommend this. It's helped to get rid of the "layers" in a print without losing too much detail. You can get a TON out of a single bottle, so it's worth the price. [link]
You should try XTC! Its fantastic at filling on 3d prints, 30 minute cure time. Only takes 1 careful coat for fine prints, or 2-3 regular coats for less detailed prints. You can sand it smooth with 400 grit
I've had good results with the standard .4 nozzle. As long as it prints clean, I've had more success putting effort into post-processing. This stuff does wonders for painting. I've printed minis on .5 and .6 nozzles with similar results in quality.
It can be, though that looks rougher than any of mine. But there's a product called XTC-3D that automatically smooths the striations of 3d-printed objects by filling them in.
On a modern engine it would run rich due to the O2 sensors in the CAT telling the engine to pump more fuel and if terribly bad, throw faults when the CAT O2 sensors get too far outside of tolerance. Also any leaks could be entirely mitigated by coating the thing in XTC-3D:
Strong work sir! Especially impressive for a high school project. I can relate to the pain of trying to print with ABS and print bed adhesion issues. I've given up on ABS and just stick with PLA myself. I've heard ABS gives a smoother print, but it's such a troublesome material to print with. I don't know if you've tried xtc-3d before. It's an epoxy coat you can paint over a PLA model that helps smooth it out. I've used it on a few PLA prints of mine, made a nice smooth finish. After it dries you can sand, polish, and paint over it too. Probably moot now that your whole project is done, but in case you try to print something again might be worth a try.
Do you put anything on your printbed before a print BTW? I've tried those self adhering sheets, but those still led to peeling shortly after the build started. I've had the most luck with gaffers tape myself.
Also with the right support/raft settings in Cura I bet you could get the curvy controller model to print. I've printed slightly crazier shaped than that on my PrinterBot Metal. If you don't mind, you should put the curvy model up on GitHub too (apologies if it's already on there, I haven't looked at the model files yet). I've love to give that print a try myself.
This is a advertised on in 3d printing spaces but price wise it might be more expensive than the prints
Okay so I've done one coat of XTC-3D on my Dickbutt MBUS.
Here's the result: [link]
Left is epoxied, right is normal print.
It was super simple and definitely imbues some strength to the print and fills in between layer lines. I definitely think it'd be helpful for your purposes though you might have issues with the print tolerances not quite fitting the BCG. Though the epoxied plastic would probably hold up a lot better than the plastic alone plus it'd be smoother so it'd probably do better for this purpose. Definitely interested in if you get it to work or not!
epoxy coating is one option
I've also had a great experience with this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Smooth-XTC-3D-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY
Note that it's quite toxic, so not for food surfaces. But it's great for creating shiny surfaces on props. And it's super easy to apply - just paint it on!
Hey, its all trial and error! Your models look good. Are you using a Iphone 12? Ive heard they have pretty slick reality capture for that model. But curious if I can do it on a lower version!
As far as the molding process goes (i havent pritned my mold yet), but its pretty straightforward if you are willing to spend the money. Obviously you can go higher end, but the Dragonskin series has an option that doesnt require degassing.
You can use Rhino, or some other tools to create mold boxes from meshes, and use that on your printer. You will need some model sealer before you pour though, so it will release.
Happy to help if you want to dive any further in to that world... Been spending a lot of time trying to figure this out.
Jesus haha, it’s a resinxtc
The stuff is absolutely amazing. Can do single or multiple layers if you desire a mirror finish.
*EDIT: Speelin wuznt so gud
you can also use some smoothing stuff you can find on amazon called Smooth-On XTC-3D. basically fills in the gaps
I was gonna start with my own variation on a sledgefire shell and also do tests with this [link] to see if it could produce better results than just sanding alone.
I am going to try using this [link] to smooth out layer lines to hopefully get better barrel material.
I meant both the smooth finish and the paint ya. I'm doing a large piece and the person printing it for me recommended PLA plastic and this over it [link]
Its a self leveling resin used in certain forms of post processing.
Maybe get some of the Smooth on XTC-3D stuff? Mix a tiny little bit and you can cover a lot of area and it's an amazing time saver for smoothing stuff you want to paint.
Pro tip - If you get the Smooth on, forget the stupid foam brush, buy some cheap Acid brushes to apply this stuff.
Yeah, I do. I keep increasing retraction which helps but I have found that higher temps (215) give me the best overall looking print with PLA.
I really ought to print one of those temperature towers...
If I did this again I'd probably try to get some filler putty type of thing and maybe even the wood filler stuff (which seems more runny) and just coat the model with that. Or some of this stuff - https://www.amazon.com/Smooth-XTC-3D-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY/ - which seems recommended too.
Forgot about this for smoothing non-ABS prints: [link]
You might try:
You can use xtc-3d from smooth on to get a super nice smooth finish, that's what I did here
or you can use this: [link]
or this and then epoxy sealer: [link]
That looks pretty sick. Just FYI though, you can get rid of those print lines with something like this: 3d print goo
Here's a link to it, [link]
It wasn't so bad, took a few hours and I would recommend having a free weekend to build and test it all
This stuff is supposed to be able to smooth PLA. Never used it, I paint most of my stuff which makes it smooth enough for my liking.