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maybe take a look at this
Ive been using this one for the past 4 years and never had an issue with it. Granted, ive only used it for headphones but it does hav RCA output so should work perfectly for that aswell. Youre also likely to get better sound!
Tror du skulle klara dig med typ denna: https://www.amazon.de/SMSL-M3-Verst%C3%A4rker-mit-Kopfh%C3%B6rer-schwarz/dp/B019Y5TR6O/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1536077031&sr=8-15&keywords=smsl
SMSL är ett kina-budgetmärke, men de använder sig av högklassiga komponenter så de presterar väldigt bra för priset. Klivet till ännu bättre skulle enligt mig ligga mer i 2500-kronors prisklassen.
I denna får du både inbyggd USB DAC (så du får bättre ljud än från datorn) och hörlursförstärkare (så du kan driva typ vilka hörlurar som helst och spela hög volym med) för en billig peng.
Edit: Den jag länkade verkar inte Amazon skicka till Sverige, dock finns det visst andra säljare som gör det (fast då får man ju ingen fri frakt). Eventuellt kan du hitta någon annan DAC av SMSL...
Looking to use the micro USB port on the back of this SMSL Audio M3 USB Powered Audio Decoder, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019Y5TR6O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_-7V2CbF7TZHW6 to and from my pc while i use the optical port to and from my ps4 and then into my speakers so i can switch between the 2
Depends on whether you want to power headphones or speakers. I use an SMSL M3 (https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Audio-M3-Powered-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O). It's a dac/amp for headphones, even has that big audio jack for better ones. In its price range it is the only one which has optical input and 192khz sound (or more realistically 92 or 128khz. The vast majority really only do 42/44khz. I was surprised to be able to hear a difference in quality. I thought that'd just be esoteric.)
The optical input is important to me because it can not transfer electrical noise. Most of those things simply connect to your pc via USB. Well guess what, the noise which ruins your on board sound can be transmitted over USB! With the s/pdif light connection the devices are insulated from another. To power it you just buy a phone charger (not the cheapest one because that can also introduce noise).
Before buying do check whether your pc even has s/pdif output. Cheap motherboards often don't.
I use it to drive Sennheiser HD558, so not exactly audiophile eqipment, but the difference in quality was very noticeable and I can now drive them so loud that I can use them without having to put them on my head so they double as speakers ��
edit: note that all that is for sound output. You'd still have to plug a microphone into your pc if you want to use one.
Or a DAC. I had the same issue when I bought my first set of decent headphones. A lot of electronic interference from the headphone jack. Got myself an SMSL m3. A DAC should also be able to clear up any interference.
Hey everyone, I just purchased the SMSL M3 AMP/DAC and i'm constantly hearing white noise when I have no audio playing, it's driving me crazy!
I'm very disappointed by this, because I bought this DAC to solve the distortions and popping my PC's onboard audio was causing... while it did fix that, I got white noise in return for it...
The knob on the DAC never has to go above 25% for it to drive my M50x(38 Ohm) headphones. Could this be the issue, that the M50x is too sensitive?
I'm currently running the power and audio over USB-A to mini-USB from my PC into the DAC. I tried using another cable but it didn't help.
This DAC also supports SPDIF Toslink, would using that input fix the white noise? I want to buy a Toslink cable, but I don't even know if that would fix the problem
yeah this is a sound card. while a usb sound card on a basic level is a usb dac, this one is much more complicated.
so i would not advise using this in the capacity you intend.
get a basic DAC and it will have buttons or switches or whatever. like this:
No...I'm not streaming MQA. My DAC is low-end. Just wondering if something I should try figure out or is it not that big of a deal?
I use the SMSL M3. It'll play just about anything I throw @ it (HD quality, DSD). Doesn't have bass feature like the FiiO, but it does improve the quality when listening via my computer and I also use it with my iPhone. It'll even drive my DT880 600 ohm...not to ear bleeding levels, but it will push them to unsafe listening levels. It's definitely and entry level amp.
This looks like almost exactly the same as the https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Audio-M3-Powered-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O but missing two ports and with hopefully better quality control.
Can someone here tell me why, if I am driving my old AKG k712 why I would need the magni/modi stack instead of this?
First, don't EQ a headphone amp. Doesn't work like that. EQ is bad in general, and is only sometimes useful to fix measured issues with headphones/speakers.
Buying a cheap little box like this: https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Audio-M3-Powered-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O will solve the problem.
Equalizer APO is the best EQ. Peace GUI is a nice add-on for it.
The range you are seeing is just more precise. You might be able to change it in the settings.
Super fedt. Det vil jeg undersøge nærmere. Står du stadig ved din anbefaling? Jeg har nemlig også lade mig fortælle på en anden thread, at SMSL AUDIO M3 (https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Audio-M3-Powered-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O/) kunne være super god at investere i. Vil begge disse tilføre nogenlunde den samme forbedrede lydoplevelse?
Og lige inden jeg glemmer; hvad er leveringstiden på den hollandske side du nævnte?
$79.99 prime shipped. Do it already
Cool. Looks like power output is pretty low, but for a work setup, it would easily drive my portable VISO HP50, HM5, and various IEMs. I do wonder however, if it will have any hiss with more sensative IEMs.
This looks like it could be a perfect substitute for the AudioEngine D1. It has a coax input (which the D1 doesn't), a quarter inch headphone output (Better than the D1's 3.5mm) and is half the price.
Broken link, fixed it for you
Can also vouch for it
I think you need a combined DAC/Headphone Amp. A DAC alone is not going to be enough unless there is some aspect that I am not aware of.
Here is a SCHIIT ASGARD Headphone Amp ($199) to which you can add one of two DAC modules. The basic ASGARD is $199, and there is a $100 DAC Module and a $200 DAC Module that can be added.
Can we assume you need a USB Digital Connection?
SMSL M3 DAC Headphone Amp - $85 -
SMSL M500 DAC Headphone Amp - $420 -
Cambridge Audio DacMagic 200M Stereo Digital to Analogue Converter DAC Preamp, Headphone Amplifier, Built-in Bluetooth, Lunar Grey - $499 -
FX AUDIO ES9038 Q2M DAC and Headphone Amp XMOS XU208 DSD512 PCM 24Bit/ 768kHz Bluetooth 5.0 CSR8675 Support 24Bit/ 196kHz APTX-HD LDAC USB HiFi Decoder&6.35mm Headphone Amplifier (Silver) - $150 -
In general -
Here is an interesting Interface - Mackie Big Knob Studio - $250 -
This is a USB Only Interface that can control two pairs of Monitors and with two independent Headphone Amps. It has multiple analog Inputs and Outputs, and can simultaneously Record and Playback.
A/D Resolution: Up to 24-bit/192kHz
Whether this is workable for you, that is for you to determine. There are many reviews of this Mackie on YouTube.
So, you have some options.
SMSL M3 if you need a S/Pidf in. 80 bucks on Amazon
Actually, the SMSL SD 793ii is on Massdrop right now for 57.99 Link I would probably buy this.
Are your active speakers connected with USB? RCA? I would think something like this would meet your needs if your speakers have RCA-in. https://www.amazon.ca/SMSL-Audio-M3-Powered-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O/ref=sr_1_30?crid=29YCQKIVQPZ37&keywords=smsl&qid=1640188781&sprefix=smsl%2Caps%2C99&sr=8-30
While it does not have sub out 'per se', an RCA splitter off of one or both RCA jacks can be used to supply your subwoofer. It has a headphone jack and a multitude of digital in ports. And it's less than 100 USD. If you only have USB into your speakers, this won't work. You need a small amp with USB pass-through... something most manufacturers don't provide.
You can skip the spdif and just use usb as your digital audio interface to a dedicated DAC. An example is
Here's an article comparing spdif vs USB for digital output from a streaming device.
> Well there is not much for $100
I . beg . to . differ
All of those have low output impedance for the headphone out. All are great DACs.
If you don't want to use onboard audio you could always get a DAC, basically an external soundcard. I use this one. It's served me well.
Thanks! I'm currently looking at the SMSL M3 (link to shenzhenaudio) as I am using optical in. From the listed specs this should work?
Thanks! I'm currently looking at the SMSL M3 (link to shenzhenaudio) as I am using optical in. From the listed specs this should work similar to your suggestions?
Sure Try this SMSL DAC/AMP
or This one
Will this dac work well with the dt 770 pro 250 ohms? do I need an amp aswell?
Here you are. It's really nice, DAC+headphones amp. It's the best (only?) option in this price bracket.
Looking to get my first DAC/amp combo to get the best output I can on my 598s. I'm having trouble deciding between the SMSL M3, the Fiio 10K, The Micca Origen +, or the new Schiit Fulla 2. Not looking to spend more than 100 atm so I'm just looking for advice on which to get as my first DAC/amp combo. If there is something better out there too that I might be missing please leave recommendations. A lot of the guides and forums that I visited don't say much about the Fulla 2 and how it compares in that price range so any help would be greatly appreciated.
Buy a FiiO E10k/SMSL M3
A better $80 has never been spent if you are an audiophile. This gets you 95% of the way to pro gear for 5% of the cost.
Get an external DAC/amp. This one takes all kinds of digital inputs at a decent price: https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Audio-M3-Powered-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O/
Neither of them give specific information on their DAC chips/audio codecs.
If I had to guess, I'd say the Dell has the better sound. A cheap external DAC/AMP like this would outperform both.
Yes it will, not at the same time, but you can choose. Powered speakers are hard to set up, barbecue they DO NOT have input switching or a central volume control.
This means that you have to either buy a switcher and both computers must match volume or else you'll blow stuff up.
Stick with Passive.
For example a setup would be
2x headphone amp/dac one for each PC
1x amplifier like this
1x speakers like this
This would allow you to use separate headphones for each PC, but then use the line-outs form each DAC to go to separate inputs on the amplifier, so you can switch.
I'm using the SMSL M3 DAC and it works great!
Sure thing! DAC here, amp here.
The SMSL M3 is really a DAC based Headphone amp that also appears to have Pre-Amp capability.
But your statement - Will my DAC output signal to both the front connector and the back? - is vague and unclear. Are you asking if you can listen to music on the speaker AND the headphones, the answer is very likely YES.
What you have to determine is whether the Audio Out RCA connectors are Pre-Amp Outs which can be controlled by the volume control, or whether they are FIXED Line Level Outputs. I would make the most sense if they are Pre-Amp out, which is why I say you can listen to speakers and headphones at the same time. But, it my quick search, I haven't been able to confirm it.
DAC : https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Audio-M3-Powered-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O
AMP : https://www.amazon.com/Bravo-Audio-Ocean-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QKSVI
is this any good ?
My personal favorite is the SMSL M3.
Z Review: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QwD5Byp1AU
It's basically the E10K but with a wider variety of options, and (in my opinion) a cleaner sound. The E10K was a gift and a great starting option, but I personally appreciate the M3 more.
>in Windows, what is your preferred method of music playback? What media file types do you like your music in, apps to playback on. Is streaming from Spotify/Pandora usually good enough quality or do you recommend another solution?
Flac, Foobar2000, If you use premium with 320 it is usually good enough but I like having the fully lossless sources.
An all in one solution is the Teac 101 but it is a bit pricey. You can instead get a 2 part solution in an SMSL M3 and SA60 which will do the same thing with more power but a lesser dac.
~~Getting a 100 dollar amp isn't difficult. The problem here is that you will also need a DAC. Without one you would just be double amping.~~
~~However, you can get a dac/amp combo for headphones and use that as a speaker dac/amp. A good combo would be the SMSL Audio M3. Also, here's Z's review.~~
~~If your budget doubles. You would be better off getting the modi/magni combo from Schiit.~~
E: Ignore everything I said. Get the Dayton 120 amp. It's around 96 dollars on Ebay and 100 +5 dollars shipping on Amazon.