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American sets can't handle SCART composite-sync as a signal, similarly to how if you hook Composite CVBS (the yellow plug) up to Component Y (the green plug) you just get black and white.
You can get an active converter from SCART to YPbPr (Component). Mike Chi makes the RetroTINK RGB2COMP which works very well. I have one for my RGB PSX. Linuxbot3000 on eBay also sells one for bit cheaper but it's hand made so he only has a couple listed at once and you need to jump on it. There's also the ANI-AV which people seem to be ok with and doesn't scale.
I have used one of these for a long time (link below). Picture is great and it's worked with everything I've thrown at it. Snes, genesis, Saturn, rgb modded n64. It produces a stunning picture on my 36 inch trinitron over component. Not sure how much justice it would do, but I can post some pictures of it in action if you're interested. It's about half the price of the other suggestion as well, it doesn't do audio though, you'll have to make sure you get the scart cables with audio breakouts. When you get it, you may have to open it up and adjust some of the pots on the board to get the color just right, just need a small screwdriver to turn the dials, takes all of 5 minutes.
I used the specialty AV converter I got off Amazon. You have to pop off the cover to adjust the pots to get color accuracy correct, but it works swimmingly well.
I get Specialty-AV unit off of Amazon. Works great, can't see any graphical issues and I doubt the Shinybow gets any sharper really.
I got this one a few weeks ago. People say you need to open it up to adjust colors, but I didn't end up having to do that for mine, so I guess your results will vary. I also had to mod mine for audio pass through, which wasn't too hard, but if you don't have soldering skill you'll need a SCART audio breakout adapter. Once I got it set up, the picture looks fantastic.
If your Trinitron supports it, give SCART -> Component a shot, it's a bit better than S-Video, but requires a special converter. :)
Good thing is though, if you plan to go BVM/PVM someday, the money invested to buy all the SCART cables and a switch to go SCART -> Component -> TV isn't wasted, the only "extra" you need to buy is a SCART -> Component converter.
But, don't invest the money unless you can afford to go "halfway" to PVM now, there is a quality difference jump from S-Video to Component but it isn't that much, many say you can't even tell. It's no where near the quality difference of going RF/Composite to S-Video.
Without modding, all you can do is use Composite, seeing as there's no S-Video on your TV. If you're not opposed to modding, the site retrorgb.com has links to a modding service to add RGB to an N64, which can then be converted to Component with a device like this: https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO
VGA is RGBVH at 31hz unlike the consoles RGBS at 15hz. You can however get a RGB/Scart to Component adapter/transcoder. External boxes of these are usually around $50 (https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO). You could probably make one yourself as well for cheaper, if you have the knowhow. You also would need the tv to accept both 240p and 480i signal over component, which most do not.
Scart support isn't really a problem in the US. You can get converter boxes that will take scart and convert it to component and you can get scart cables pretty cheap. Something like this will convert let you use component cables from a scart cable:
I don't personally have one of those as I have a framemeister, but a friend does and it works well except that it doesn't have audio out from the box but people have modded them to get audio out of it.
Absolutely, svideo is worlds better. Especially for capture.
RGB is the next level, it has potential to be as clear and noise free as a modern HD signal. You can get the cables on ebay or wherever for about $20. However nothing really uses that plug, so you have to use an upscaler or converter. The nice ones are $$$ (like 200 and up), but you can get cheap ones that work pretty well. I've used this exact setup with my modded N64 (modded to use RGB with snes cables). retrogamingcables and component box amazon
I can vouch for these:
SPECIALTY-AV SCART to Component Video Converter for Sega, Genesis, Atari
You can get them on eBay too.
I use this exact one.I had to open it and tweak the potentiometers because the colors were slightly off but otherwise it works very well.
No problem! Happy to see someone with the same set. For GC, that link I posted, is being played through my Wii with OEM component cables and looks fantastic. No need for $250 cables (unless you value the gameboy player option for 480p). Everything else of mine is mostly RGB modded and then fed into this tube with a ShinbowSB2340 converter. Prior to the Shinybow I had that generic or CSY clone converter with adjustable pots and it looked really good as well. My 3DO is on S-Video and I'm pretty happy with the image and as for my NES, I refuse to play anything until I get the damn thing modded for RGB! (one of my only consoles I still haven't done yet). I managed to get a Japanese top loader version for the mod since they're more reliable and use the familiar nintendo a/v out connector (unlike the N.American top loader which doesn't use the same connector). SNES(1 CHIP) & Genesis are excellent native RGB consoles, all you would need are the cables and a component converter. Below is a list and info of some of the hardware I am either currently using or have used in the past and would recommend. Don't be overwhelmed, if you'd like to see the absolute best image you can provide this set you can just start with a simple RGB scart cable for a console that has RGB natively, and a basic SCART to Component converter. Just remember some converters don't handle the audio.
Thanks a lot for the suggestion. Still trying to get my head around how these things even work. Currently using csync RGB scart. Seems like it's a bit of hassle, but definitely not too ridiculous. I was hoping there was some way to extract the image directly from the monitor without having a horrendous mess of cables, but there isn't.
I found an explanation from the guys who run the ESA speedrunning event, if anyone is interested:
"Here are a couple of more resources where you can read up on RGB capturing:
During ESA2014 we used a couple of different scalers. Initially we wanted to used several XRGB minis, but that plan fell through. So we used these in combination:
CM-393 (also known as Centaur Pro): A SCART to HDMI scaler. Will only work with NTSC consoles. In the case where we wanted to catpure PAL sources, we had to run the video signal through a DVD-recorder to conform the signal to proper PAL. PAL60 will also have to go through a DVD-recorder. For that purpose we had several KiSS DP-558 units available.
We also used Cypress CP-255i: A more high-end scaler, basically plug and play. But does not have an input for SCART. For those cases we had Sync Strikes. Or SCART (RGB) to YUV converters. http://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO
Seriously, those RGB to YUV have saved our asses more than once. It's a great utility. Works just fine for hooking up your retro consoles to a PVM or a TV with only component inputs. (Assuming it accepts 240p).
As for the future. We opted for a solution which would allow us to stick to one scaler. We went for the Extron DVS-304. This model has been discontinued but can be found in Ebay. This little beauty accepts anything analog. And you should be able to score one for less than 100$.
Since you can get scaled RGBHV output, it's very easy to replicate the output to any source. Which might not be very helpful for personal streaming, but it is godlike for marathons.
There is still a model in production Extron DVS-304 DVI.
tl;dr: There's no easy solution. But SCART (RGB) is nothing more than Red + Green + Blue + Sync. "
I use the Specialty-AV SCART to Component adapter to connect from the ArcadeVGA. If you buy this, you'll need to unscrew the case cover and adjust the pots to get the color to your liking (do this while the tv is on and everything is connected so you can see the adjustments real time).
I got them connected with a JAMMA VGA to SCART cable, though I probably could have found just a VGA to SCART cable to reduce the extra wires.
If you're gonna do straight VGA to component, its more costly, you'll want this:
Its very expensive (discontinued, and over $100 on ebay), and cheaper to just do the method I showed you, though it adds an additional joint in the line.
As for the converters I went for the CSY-2100 CLONE and have no issues with it. Using it on a behemoth KV-36FS13. I have several RGB consoles going through it and it looks great.
hmmmm was very eager to see how these compare to converting the RGB signal through a YUV converter. For those that don't have SCART or PVM's this seems like a viable option, but for those of us who already have SCART cables perhaps at those price tags it'd be better to just stick with the YUV box. I gave this box a try (https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498983271&sr=8-2&keywords=scart+to+ypbpr) on my KV-36FS13 and here are the results, taken with a smartphone camera.
While not the cheapest option, when I want to output component, I use a Toro VGA box hooked up to a SCART to Component converter.
You're trying to tackle an issue that I was up against until this past weekend when I broke down and picked up a Sony CRT with component inputs, but here was where I ended up. I shared this in another thread as well ( https://redd.it/6cw74h ).
I use a couple of Extron Crosspoints to output to multiple devices, one of which only took S-Video / Composite. I was using this device to convert my component systems to S-Video. I had my RGB systems first go through this device to convert RGB to YPbPr (although I'd recommend the Shinybow SB-2840 as someone else mentioned), then to the monoprice device.
I hadn't had a lot of time to play / tinker with it when I posted in the other thread, and someone got me thinking to look further into the monoprice device. Much like what you mentioned about the specs you found, the monoprice device didn't convert 240p properly, and instead passed it along as 480i. Some of my systems were kinda OK with it, but others had some issues.
I would imagine the device RGB240P mentioned ( this ) would work since the guy that makes it deals with retro consoles. I've purchased RGB amps from him in the past and signed up on the waiting list for this device too.
I have just gone through the same thing you are asking. Don't bother with the cheap cables / adaptors on Amazon. They won't work because they are not "converting" anything, rather just re-routing the pins to align with the S-Video side. The reason this won't work is that RGB and S-Video cannot be used in the same SCART head at the same time since they have overlapping wiring (S-Video uses RGB Red and Blue for chrominance as an example). Your SCART head needs to be wired either for RGB or S-Video, but can't be both, and these adaptors expect the SCART head to be wired for S-Video. It will appear to work at first, but will just show black and white.
With that said, there are solutions, but none are perfect.
After failing with the cheap adaptors myself, I started looking for converters / transcoders for converting RGB SCART to S-Video. I first came across this ( http://www.ani-av.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=53&products_id=226 ) and contacted Shinybow. They initially said they no longer made it, but followed up saying they found some in the warehouse. They shipped some to their US distributor (the above link) and I ordered one. I thought I had my solution, but ran into some more issues. It too produced a black and white pic, but this device does actually convert the signal rather than passing it along. Although I have not been able to 100% confirm this yet, I believe the reason may be that it is converting S-Video under the PAL standard and the the color encoding differs from the NTSC standard here in the US. I also found this ( http://www.js-technology.com/store/product.php?id_product=17 ) which appears to convert the RGB SCART to S-Video SCART, but I have not tried this device and feel it may have the same issue as the Shinybow box.
After all of that, I think I have found the solution, but using 2 different devices. I know one device works since I have it now and have tested it (I sense minimal to no lag, but I need to do a proper test), and the other device is well known in the retro gaming community to work without lag (I should have this device next week). This is what I have planned:
RGB SCART > YpbPr > S-Video
Here is the device I currently use to convert YpbPr to S-Video
Here are 2 devices for RGB SCART to YpbPr. One is considered a CSY-2100 clone and has no audio out, so you will need to take that into account. The other is out of stock until July, but is known to be better as I found on http://retrorgb.com/converters.html .
When the RGB SCART to YpbPr device arrives next week, I'll post here with an update. Also, both devices will work with light gun games when the composite out is used in place of S-Video for one device or Green is used for the lightgun connector for the other device, at least with a PS1 and PS2 using Guncons.
Which SCART to Component box did you order? I got one as well and had to mod a headphone out jack to it for sound because it only did video. This powered splitter looks like it would be a good one, if a little overkill, but it's only about $35 USD. This switcher will automatically switch to whatever device is powered on.
Consoles to Hydra, Hydra to splitter, splitter to component box and Framemeister then to the TVs.
I don't currently use this setup, but if I did I'd probably start here.
P.S. if you ordered one of these and don't want to deal with modding the thing, I'd recommend using this adapter to get sound.
RGB is hard.
I was thinking of getting this and some RGB scart cables for my Genesis/Saturn, any thoughts?
My first piece of advice with all of this is to take your time to understand the basics. All of this isn't that hard to understand; it just takes a little time. If you really want to RGB mod your consoles to get the best picture then it is going to be expensive. Some consoles, such as the Genesis, early model SNES systems like the SNS-CPU-GPM-02, Sega Saturn and Playstation one output RGB natively so they don't have to be modded. Others like the NES and and N64 require RGB mods. This site is a really good starting point: http://retrorgb.com/index.html. You could also use s-video instead of RGB scart. S-video is better than composite and most consoles output s-video.
It seems that you are confused about scart and RGB. RGB is the signal being output by the console and scart is the cable used to carry that signal. If you want to connect your system outputting RGB via scart to a CRT with component input, then you need a scart to component transcoder like this one, https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO. A transcoder simply coverts the signal and does not change the resolution or refresh rate and there should be no loss in picture quality.
So it appears that you are trying to RGB mod your SNES? If you have an early model SNES then you don't need to mod it. You don't need an official Nintendo scart cable; you can use a generic one. If you have a later model SNES such as a 1-chip version or SNES mini then the RGB mod you linked to is what you need. You have to keep in mind though that even though the RGB mod kit on that site is $29, it would cost $65 for them to install it. Then you still have to buy a scart cable (maybe $10?) and a scart to component transcoder (at least $50) to connect to your CRT.
The cheapest option would be to just get a used Wii, softmod it and play that on a CRT. Wii can output component and you can get a good third party component cable for $10 or less. Retroarch Wii can run retro games in their native resolutions and it looks just like games running on the original systems. You would also need an SD card to run your games off of but those are cheap. This option might cost you $60-70 but that is much better than spending hundreds of dollars if you went with the other options.
The only PVMs I could find for sale in my state were very limited and at the most 9 inches, which is far too small for my liking. I decided to look around for trinitrons which obviously were far more common. Although there is not much info about Australian sets out there, I found a couple of listings that actually bothered to show what ports it had and I found plenty of ones with component. My question is for hooking it up to the TV, will I need a simple cable like this one (25 AUD) or an actual box like this one (I think the price is in USD, making it 65 AUD) Obviously in my currency the price difference is pretty big, so I wanna make sure I don't overspend when I don't need to.
This might be your simplest solution: https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/SCART-breakout-adapter-for-composite-and-s-video
That will give you an RGB video signal for the CRT, and S-VIDEO for the Elgato's A/V in.
If you want better quality than S-Video for the capture, then you need to first use a matrix switch to split the RGB signal. I would recommend either the gscartsw or an Extron Crosspoint for that.
Once split, you would then need to convert that second RGB output signal into a video format that the Elgato can understand.
If you want to use the Elgato's YPbPr (YUV) component input, you can try and run the signal through one of these: https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO
If you want to use the Elgato's HDMI input, then run the RGB signal through an X-RGB mini "Framemeister", or alternatively the Open Source Scan Converter (OSSC).
they exist, and in my experience work well
Do you have a SCART to YUV/component transcoder, if so, which one, and as a follow-up, do you have any issues with any particular system?
Trying to judge this guy, as I've seen it recommended before: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XSSDPO
I'm using this converter https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO I'm not sure, how can I tell? Also should I buy higher quality cables?
I just read through the original post and the comments following and am confused. If the TV in question has HDMI, component (NOT composite aka RCA aka yellow/red/white) and S-Video, then it most certainly does accept RGB natively, as component is literally plugs for Red Green and Blue, separately. According to a list of specs for the model mentioned (here), the unit supports both component and composite.
Without modding anything, the highest video quality for the NES will be composite, no matter what converters you hook them up to, as you're only changing the base video format (composite) into a compatible signal, not improving it in any way. Similarly, for the SNES and N64, S-Video is going to be the highest quality video without modding. The Dreamcast does have a VGA cable available, but you're going to be out some money for an adapter box to move the analog VGA signal to a digital HDMI one. In my opinion, that money would be better spent buying a SCART to composite adapter, as the SNES, Genesis & Dreamcast all have SCART cables available and SCART, while not quite as crisp as component, is a form of RGB and would look great on your TV; here is an example of such a converter. The PS2 has had component cables available for it for years, so you just need to pick up a set; they're usually cheapest when purchased as a generic set for multiple systems--mine is for PS2/Xbox/360.
Note that the N64, while compatible with the SCART cable used for the SNES, won't output SCART/RGB signal without some internal modification. Without modding, you're stuck at S-Video as your top end video quality on it.
Hope this helps!
From your post I'm presuming your monitor only has component input. For this, you would need a converter like this. And since there's no audio through it, you need a SCART cable like this.
Yeah there's a lot of options out there, most of which require at least a bit of cash and a bit of labor. Your Scaler is very impressive and I think would go great with something like the SLG3000.
I am of the opinion that if you don't want to spend time hunting down a PVM or BVM, and you don't want to throw down the cash on a Framemeister, then the next best option would be a CRT that's new enough to have YPbPR component inputs (doesn't have to be a Trinitron either), then simply buy one of these to convert the signal.
I admit my bias because that's the setup I use. The end result is about on par with S-Video, which is actually a form of RGB, and it looks so much better than composite.
BONUS: My dream retro gaming display
Alternately, A SCART to component converter would probably be better to use than a cheap upscaler. A framemeister is the absolute best solution, but there are some HDTVs that can output a pretty decent image when using component
and if your SCART cable does not include an audio breakout cable, you can use this in conjunction to get audio out of the SCART cable
You can get better video with an S-Video cable. If you are super-serious then you can RGB Mod the system, then use an RGB to Component adapter such as this one