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SRA Soldering Products Rosin Paste Flux #135 In A 2 oz Jar?
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I bought this stuff to work on my gameboy color and it did a good job. I just used a q-tip to smear it on whatever needed to be soldered or desoldered.
Nice, you'll be really happy with that soldering station. The Quicko firmware is just fine so try that first and see how you like it. That solder works great (the one you chose) and for flux pretty much any of them will work fine. This cheap one from Amazon works fine.
I ordered this stuff from Amazon ( don’t worry, not an affiliate link)
SRA Soldering Products Rosin... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ZIV85A?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I needed to reflow and desolder some components after using some shitty Home Depot lead free electronics solder. That stuff really helped wick away the old solder, and helped a lot in reflowing sone joints too.
That looks small enough that pretty much any type of soldering iron would work. The flux in question here is something like this at Amazon for example. Once you have some, add flux to the pad prior to beginning the soldering process; it will help melt the solder and also to bind the components.
I use a rosin paste rather than a no-clean liquid flux, but that's just me. No-clean may be a better option in this case. You can test most of the points with a multimeter to ensure they're making proper contact.
A couple more tips I learnt the hard way:
- buy a good soldering paste flux (I noticed it's missing in the kit you linked) and use it to keep the soldering tip clean;
- use the multimeter to check if everything is ok before and after soldering;
- avoid as much as possible cold joints and use too much solder!
- I usually prefer to use flat ribbon wire; it keeps everything clean and in good order.
Hard to diagnose a power issue from pictures. Odds are you have a short introduced by the modifications. I will however recommend that you get some flux. Not likening some of those solder points. You may want to remove the wiring and see if it powers on and then try again.
I mean that would probably work but I believe that stuff is even more corrosive than the regular stuff and might damage the wiring over time. If it's an expensive headset I wouldnt risk it. Here's the one I use. I just stick the exposed parts of the wire right in it before soldering.
Thanks so much for the reply, it helps a lot.
The product you linked isn't deliverable to my area. I've had that same issue before and I think it's to do with certain items not being legally allowed to be shipped to CA. There's a couple things I need to get that won't ship to CA and was thinking I could time it right and order it to an Amazon locker just inside NV next time I go up around Tahoe.
This one I can have shipped to me. Would that clean up with ISP? What I understand on cleaning it with ISP is that it will "lift" the residue but you still need to "move" it off the board before the ISP dries/evaporates. Which means lightly pouring ISP over the "lifted" residue so it flows off the board or working ISP over it again and again until it's all pulled off the board. Am I correct on this?
Again, thanks for the help!
Just cancelled everything but the gamebit and batteries. Is this a good paste would you think? Ill defintly order the solder and wick. Just not sure if I should wait til I have money and get a better solder iron or try with the things suggested with my current iron. thanks for the help btw
It's weird that not much has changed since the 50's as far as soldering goes. I've not found a better set of instructional videos than those. The actual flux has gotten better over time however. I use a bee's wax based flux so that the toxic fumes smell better. But really any modern SRA/No Clean flux'll work.
Tip tinner and flux are the same thing, but tip tinner comes in an actual tin where flux comes in a variety of containers and types, so my bad tip tinner is more specific and might get better results on a search page. As for brand i don't really know because I haven't needed to use it since I treat my tips pretty well, but I've heard good about this one.
J4 and J5 seem to need more solder - be sure to make sure the new flex cable is flush with the motherboard before applying solder.
Overall, I think the installation will really benefit from you being very generous with flux. I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ZIV85A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_TNDXFbY17XGSV
You’re using 63/37 solder?
what kind of flux do you recommend? is this good? how about what solder to use? someone said that .8mm is better than what i'm using.
I use something very similar to this. A tiny little dab on each joint and after a little practice you will have almost zero clean up. Tinning wires you just dip the wire end in. Want a little extra flux for a stubborn joint then dip the solder into it. A tin like the one in the Amazon link has lasted me over 20 years doing many thousands of joints!
Cover it in flux paste and use the drag method for applying the solder. Makes it super easy.
SRA Soldering Products Rosin Paste Flux #135 In A 2 oz Jar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ZIV85A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_7Fw3FbQ992K2V
Adding external flux can help a lot, A LOT. I just started soldering last year, and I bought this one to start, and it works great, but cleanup the residue afterward with some IPA. I more recently bought some no clean flux, and that's nice to use for places that will be awkward to clean, or if you're just feeling lazy. :-)
Just signed up to tell you that
We have the same problem I tried replacing the battery and nothing worked...
The part that was in the Picture you showed later in this reply section might be the main problem, I have seen somebody with the same problem who's solved it through melting Flux on that part. You have to open that part before doing so. Otherwise you might have to get a new motherboard or just buy a new phone (heh i wish i could do that)
Flux ( You can find it locally by the way )
I'm ordering Flux soon to try that on my phone if you have any updates please reply to me =)
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Note: Resort to 4:41 to know how they opened the cover up
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Hope that works with you, and I will also notify you if this works with me
Have you ever built a guitar before? If not it might just be easier to buy a kit from a site like https://thefretwire.com or https://www.solomusicgear.com. It comes with everything you need.
As far as painting - how good do you want it to look? Do you want it to be very smooth and high gloss? It sounds like you said you wanted to relic it in the title, but then just ask about painting. I'd say go for a normal paint job first, then relic it later. A good relic job isn't doing a really shitty job of spray painting it with cans from Lowes. Its taking a well painted guitar and putting in purposeful wear to make it look as if the guitar has been played and loved and sometimes even repainted a few times for a long time.
For painting - this is a really good 2 part series on all of the steps to get a perfect finish. You can buy the Stewmac stuff if you want, but its always more expensive than anything else on the market.
Electronics - I'm not sure about a specific tutorial. I'm coming to building guitars from making guitar pedals, so I have a decent setup and some soldering skills. Wiring up a guitar is MUCH simpler than making guitar pedals. If you buy a kit form one of the sites above, it will come with instructions on how to wire it up. You will need a soldering iron and solder. I recommend at LEAST something like this iron. It has variable temp control. Id also pick up some paste flux, a desoldering braidand a desoldering pump. You will also need solder unless you buy a kit. This stuff should do the trick.
This probably will work for you: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ZIV85A/
But if you want the good stuff: https://store.rossmanngroup.com/amtech-nc-559-v2-30-cc-16160.html
I assume this is to fix red ring of death?
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Reflowing+Xbox+360+Motherboard/5845
I bought this one when I first started soldering last year. I just use a toothpick to get some out and apply it to whatever I'm soldering. I clean up afterward with >90% ISO.
I also bought this no-clean flux. I figured it would be good for something like floating an IC off it's contacts, but I haven't used it yet.
I'm pretty new myself, but I'd say you need to reflow those joints with some flux. They should be shiny and rounded, and flux helps that to happen. I use this: SRA Rosin Paste Flux I just add a little to the area with a toothpick. You have to cleanup afterward with some >90% isopropyl alcohol and q-tips. I also bought some no-clean flux recently, but I haven't tried it yet. :-)
SRA Soldering Products Rosin Paste Flux #135 In A 2 oz Jar https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B008ZIV85A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_000PX8MNHMCQDT9P9E68?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
May little hard. But very easy using solder flux.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OWNAjwhwzro <-- How to use flux
https://www.amazon.com/SRA-Rosin-Paste-Flux-135/dp/B008ZIV85A/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2P7I4EPS11TSN&dchild=1&keywords=poison&qid=1635485508&sprefix=solder+fl%2Caps%2C305&sr=8-1<-- Recommend solder flux
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WE1010NA-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B077JDGY1J/ref=sr_1_8?crid=282V97O70IO40&dchild=1&keywords=hot+penis&qid=1635485600&sprefix=soldering+iro%2Caps%2C305&sr=8-8 <-- Recommend cheap and fast heat soldering iron.
Get some flux, it'll make cleaning up the solder bridges etc that u/MathematicianOverall mentioned much easier.
Review this VIDEO, despite its age it is still an excellent starting point.
For stuff like this, I prefer a flux paste like THIS. Just use a q-tip or similar to dab a little on the point. Makes less of a mess.
Is there a recommended flux? Would this one work ok?
https://www.amazon.com/SRA-Rosin-Paste-Flux-135/dp/B008ZIV85A/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=flux&qid=1626885457&sr=8-5
I have always next to me solder flux, just like this one: https://www.amazon.com/SRA-Rosin-Paste-Flux-135/dp/B008ZIV85A (not this model or anything, it was the first result I got on google)
I use it to add a bit of extra flux to the thing I'm going to solder and also to help tin the tip of the iron, when they are getting to the end of their life.
Also, I don't like the wet sponge so I use these kind of tip cleaners (also, just for reference): https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Soldering-Cleaner-sponge-needed/dp/B005C789EU
I bought some https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ZIV85A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KarDFb15VBDDX sometimes I work with really small solder joints though. Should I use no clean for that? Also can you link the no clean that you like?
Like the other poster said, add some solder to the existing pad so that the fresh solder can mix with the old to make a solid connection. Remember the point is to make a connection to the gold pad on the circuit board, and not to just blob on as much as you can! I took some tweezers and put them under one of the tabs, heated the solder with the iron until it turned liquid, and then lifted the tab with the tweezers. You want to lift while the solder is still liquid because if it hardens and you pull, you can damage the board. Luckily, the battery pads are nice and big so you can get the tip of your iron on there while being able to lift at the same time! I lift the first side up, then I grab the battery by the body with the tweezers and get the other side off so it all comes away.
While soldering the new battery on, make sure the positive side of the battery is being soldered onto the pad on the circuit board labeled (+). I actually made a mistake trying to change a battery in my Japanese Emerald because while the battery looked like it was in the same position as the old battery because the one flat tab matched where the old one was, and the bent tab was placed where the bent tab was, my replacement battery had it switched so I basically installed it backwards and that's why it didn't work. Just match positive to positive, negative to negative on the board and you should be ok!
In the future, as you get more confident, I would get a solder sucker because it makes life so much easier for everything! You might get the modding bug (like me) and want to solder more and more, so being able to clear off solder is a must!
The biggest tip is flux is amazing. When I started a few years ago, I thought I sucked at soldering and while that was true because I was inexperienced, my solder joints were hard to get shiny and rounded because I didn't use it. Flux makes solder able to flow and stick properly to the components. I usually use this one for battery swaps and just put it on the places I want to solder to using a toothpick or a q tip. I also have a Kester rosin flux pen around, but I don't use it as much after switching to the paste type. Both types of applicators are absolutely fine, I just really like the paste in the tub because it stays put on the pad and I can be sure it was properly applied.
I also got a cheap multimeter and tested the battery before installing too. I didn't in the past and one day, a battery I installed in my Gold version died after a month died. Apparently the seller I bought them from didn't protect the batteries from touching each other and they discharged before I had a chance to really use them!
Anyway good luck! I was terrified of soldering at first, but tbh I love it now. You will eventually make mistakes but do not beat yourself up about it because you are learning!
You need flux. You can get it delivered monday Amazon prime.
Sra Rosin Paste Flux #135 In A 2 oz Jar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ZIV85A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_H4fPEbMZDE2BF
Thanks for the information. This is the liquid flux I ordered. Would you recommend something different?
Got any recommendations for flux? Something like this?
I got myself a 937D+ soldering station off of ebay a year or so back with a pack of Hakko assorted tips for it and it has been a blast. Some rosin flux paste on a toothbrush, leaded solder and a wet paper towel to clean the iron off and soldering is a breeze.
I sorta wish I had sprung for one of those stations with a hot-air gun built in for finer work, but for general work this thing has been well worth spending a few bucks more than an average cheapo iron.
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