The only irony here is that /u/MegaHz may not know amazon.ca exists:
https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-12-Inch-Mounting-Bracket-WALLMOUNT6/dp/B000VDPBXM
$50 CAD, free shipping. Of course if you're buying from US Amazon, it's going to SHIP from the US.
For racks, there are lots of good options on Amazon, like the StarTech 6U wall-mounted network rack which I've seen mentioned on here several times and I've installed two of.
Just gotta be careful with the depth and what you plan to put in it. For example, a UDM-Pro will fit, and a UNVR will need a right-angled power cable but will have very little clearance in the back. That USW-24-PoE you have will fit as well. But if you want to upgrade to the 24 Pro or the 48 at some point, those may not fit.
If this is a new build make sure to future proof. With more and more motherboards showing up with 10Gbe widespread 10G access is not far off now.
Use cat6a or cat7 for the house wiring, way cheaper to do it now then have to try and run it later.
I'd personal use a wall mounted rack and just put the patch panel and switches on it.
Sure, it's a StarTech.com 6U Wall Mount Network Rack - 14 Inch Deep (Low Profile) (WALLMOUNT6) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VDPBXM It's OK for a basic rack. If I was starting from scratch I would prefer an 8U and one with more depth as some switches won't fit in this one.
What's the depth of the switch?
I am currently using a Switch 24 PoE (250W) in my closet rack that is 14 inches deep. The switch 24 barely fits in this, and I had to replace the supplied power cable with a right angle one to make it fit.
According to the UniFi website, the Switch 24 PoE (250W) is 19.09" x 1.72" x 11.24".
The UniFi website says the USW-Enterprise-24-PoE is 17.4" x 1.7" x 12.8"
This means it won't fit in a 19" rack mount...which is silly as the picture on the website says it does.
​
So...if you don't mind me asking...what is the depth of the switch, and the depth of the small rack you mounted in in. This (Amazon Link) is what I currently using for my closet rack.
Thanks!
It's a (startech 6U wall mount rack)[StarTech.com 6U Wall Mount Network Equipment Rack - 14 Inch Deep - 19" Patch Panel Bracket for Shallow Server Equipment- 44lbs Capacity (WALLMOUNT6), Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VDPBXM/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_QBNSFSRZPPWNRFKC1CX6?psc=1] . I can't decide if I want to end up mounting it or just leave as is.
StarTech.com 6U Wall Mount Network Equipment Rack - 14 Inch Deep - 19" Patch Panel Bracket for Shallow Server Equipment- 44lbs Capacity (WALLMOUNT6), Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VDPBXM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_26QWV7RNV8PQ930PWQRQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
PDUs are in a basic wall mounted rack.
StarTech.com 6U Wall Mount Network Equipment Rack - 14 Inch Deep - 19" Patch Panel Bracket for Shallow Server Equipment- 44lbs Capacity (WALLMOUNT6), Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VDPBXM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VYYXJ7S7J21WF5M2XT55?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Measure and see if maybe this would fit in that cabinet. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Bracket-Equipment-Mounting-WALLMOUNT6/dp/B000VDPBXM/ref=pd_lpo_147_t_2/139-0620291-8651959?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000VDPBXM&pd_rd_r=2ef20729-5f82-4f51-a75b-1a6f881bb036&pd_rd_w=FdrHg&pd_rd_wg=Bv...
Came from Amazon. StarTech It's a cheap rack, the rack itself is sturdy but the mounting hardware is insufficient. If you get one you'll need to make sure you mount it to studs. I had to drill through back in order to hit studs for my location.
Wow that looks awesome! I was thinking of doing some sort of rack like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VDPBXM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WwXSDbFKKAE5C
Would this be ok? Or would the media cabinet provide more room? Obviously the rack could be larger depending on needs. I really appreciate it!
Since nothing you have there is rack mountable, I'd suggest getting a wall mounted rack and a shelf or two. You can also put in a patch panel if you want to tidy up the wires.
And if you feel like making it really nice, you can get a 1U power strip:
Not OP, but I use this one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VDPBXM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Though I do like how OP's rack is inside an enclosure.
Amazon :-).
Here's the rack: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VDPBXM
And I also have this shelf that the modem and router are sitting on: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074G5JSSX
I started with this small 6U 19” rack
StarTech.com 6U Wall Mount Network Equipment Rack - 14 Inch Deep - 19" Patch Panel Bracket for Shallow Server Equipment- 44lbs Capacity (WALLMOUNT6) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VDPBXM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_UjhYFbS6A5MMB
It’s shallow do you need to get the shorter depth shelves like this :
StarTech.com 1U Fixed Server Rack Mount Shelf - 10in Deep Steel Universal Cantilever Tray for 19" AV/Network Equipment Rack - 44lbs (CABSHELF1U10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071RN1858/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_hnhYFbW0TD257
Nice wire work.
All of the cables that are dangling need to be terminated in a patch panel.
Then you run short Ethernet connections between the patch panel and a switch.
The standard for these types of things fit into a 19" rack. HERE is an example of a small wall mount rack that holds 19" rack mount devices that will fit many devices. This link is a 6 U (when you buy 19" rack mount devices they will tell you how many "U" they occupy).
You can also get SHELVES to mount stuff, various size DRAWERS to hold stuff, various RACK COOLING OPTIONS, CABLE MANAGEMENT, MORE CABLE MANAGEMENT, EVEN MORE CABLE MANAGEMENT, POWER STRIPS, and even more and more stuff to make the rack work for you.
The difference in 19" racks is mainly:
Make sure the builder does not use one of the dopey STRUCTERED MEDIA ENCLOSURES as these really limit what you can do.
Your best bet is to make sure that you can fit a wall mount or FREE STANDING 19" rack where the cables come out that also has an electrical outlet to plug things into.
​
Good luck!
Take the time to do this right.
First, install a wall-mount rack in your basement where the LAN cables currently come together. Put a keystone patch panel in the top spot, and terminate all your LAN cables to it using keystone jacks. Put a rackmount surge protector in the bottom spot, and a shelf somewhere in the middle.
Get a 24-port rackmount gigabit switch. Something like this will be your cheapest option, but this one is fully managed and will integrate seamlessly with your router and APs. Whichever one you get, mount it right under the patch panel.
For your router, you'll want the UniFi Security Gateway. Put it on the shelf, connect WAN1 to your fiber modem and LAN1 to the big switch.
For your APs, get two NanoHDs. Ceiling mount one each in the kitchen and main bedroom. They're powered by PoE, but each includes a PoE injector, so you won't need to buy a PoE switch. If you do want to go with a PoE switch, just get a small one such as this or this, put it on the shelf, connect a non-PoE port to your main switch, and connect two of the PoE ports to the AP lines on the patch panel.
Lastly, you'll need the UniFi Network Controller. You already have a home media server, so just install it on there if possible.
Looks like a StarTech 6U
You have a few options. I don't see any rack mountable items, and that's my go to. (I have three racks in my house, love them!)
Here's a sample small rack. They are typically 19" across, and have Unit (U) divisions. So you if have a 5U rack, you can put five U's, or 2x2U +1U, etc. I'd recommend a power strip or UPS for the rack as the starting point. If you have a lot of ethernet going around, I'd recommend a coupler (patch panel), too. Finally, swap the router for a rack mount router, preferably POE. That's 3U (typically) for your starting point. You could put a shelf on it, I suppose, and put the hubs on that.
Another option is to get a mesh board, mount it to the wall, and then velcro tie everything to it.
If heat isn't a major concern, you can also get a small cabinet, throw everything in there.
Another idea is a long socket adapter for your power supples. It runs up the length of the wall. You could put wire shelves next to it, and have a lot of power distribution.
It keeps you from crowding wall warts. Some of those hubs can also be run from a POE router, double points if you have one that has Wifi built in. You'd need 48v or 24v down converters, but they're not very pricey. I have a cheapie POE router that does nothing but power hubs.
Cheers
Star tech 6u
StarTech.com 6U Wall Mount... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VDPBXM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
StarTech.com 6U Wall Mount Patch... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000VDPBXM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Might not be the best one but price was good and it fit everything in
The more I see these boxes the more I want to rip them out and just put a standard wall mount network rack in their place.
Maybe something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VDPBXM/
Remove box, restore a standard power outlet that could connect to a standard rack mount power bar and install drywall over most of the hole. Things don't get hidden away but at least you can use real rackmount equipment.
Well TBH im not very good at judging space; however I will say that the Rack Mount I used in the first and 2nd pictures is 19.5 inches (49.53cm) wide and 14 inches deep, and you can see how much stuff I put on there. (power bar, patch panel, 24 port switch, NVR, HDHR, modem, and router!)
Not sure, if I would want to put my 25 lbs (11.4kg) PSU on my rack, but depending on how tall your space is I guess you could put the synology and router on the top shelf? Also, if you forgo the patch panel and power bar, you could get a rackmount UPS ? However its only 500VA/300Watt AND $200 USD, where mine is 1500VA/1000Watt and is $250 but is usually on sell for less. (for reference with my Unraid server, Modem, Router, etc my UPS will last 25 min before drained, but my Server pulls 300watts by itself while mining, 175 Watts mining turned off)
For those who would like to know more about this set up I will list everything I used below. Keep in mind this is a very basic/simple set up that met all of my networking needs.
6U Wall Mounted Server Rack (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VDPBXM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)
1U Server Rack Top Shelf (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071KW94ZC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)
TP Link Gigabit Switch (unmanaged) (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002HAJQGA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)
CAT6 Server Rack 24 Port Patch Panel (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072K1OWY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)
1U RPi Server Rack Mount (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08F9X528J/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_i_Y36S0VZCESGS3Q8TXJ8E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)
1U Server Rack Mount Fan Panel (Intake)(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076BZSRKQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)
1U Server Rack Mount PDU (8 outlets) (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035PS5AE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)
Misc:
M6 Server Rack Screws + Cage Nuts (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09CDT8RP9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)
HDMI Keystone Jack (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H51M7SE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)
I am also running Orbi AX4200 Tri-band Mesh WiFi 6 system with 1 Satellite.
In 2021 I purchased about 1000ft of CAT6 ethernet cable on Craigslist and slowly hardwired everything I could, utilize the patch panel much as possible. Not completely done just yet.
This is, quite frankly, ridiculous. Don't get anything Luxul. Ubiquiti UniFi would be ideal for the routing, switching, and APs. Your network rack could be something like this, with a surge protector such as this one.
It's a StarTech 6U wall mount
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VDPBXM Make sure your switches will fit, it's a short depth rack
Sure thing. Here you go: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VDPBXM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here is the rack I ordered. I should have gone with the 8u version.
I moved the support bar to the bottom so I could easily fit my NAS and cable modem on top.
It a 4U wall mount bracket, 400mm deep. Not sure where you are, but Amazon has something similar
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Bracket-Equipment-Mounting-WALLMOUNT6/dp/B000VDPBXM
Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
---|---|---|---|
Item B000VDPBXM | - | - | 0.0/5.0 |
^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger
For the cable, all you need is Cat6. It'll do 5 gigabit to 100m and 10 gigabit to 55m, so nothing better is needed except for a HUGE house where you'll have runs longer than 55m. In that case, Cat6a is the way to go. Cat7 isn't even officially recognized as Ethernet cable. Fiber is needed to go above 10 gigabit, and is recommended for backhaul, i.e. connecting a large main switch to a smaller PoE switch if both have SFP ports.
The cable you're installing needs to be solid-conductor, not stranded, and it should be pure copper rather than CCA (copper-clad aluminum). This or this will be perfect.
When choosing your network hub location, you need to consider 3 things: a central location, power, and ventilation. The more central it is, the shorter your cable runs will be, on average. For power you'll ideally want an outlet on a dedicated circuit, as all you'll be connecting to it is your surge protector. For ventilation, you just need to keep it from overheating. If it'll be in a closet without a vented door, you'll need HVAC run to it. And don't use the attic!
The first thing you need for the network hub is a 6U wallmount rack. It can be mounted directly to stone with the proper anchors. At the top of the rack, install a keystone patch panel. All your cables will terminate here. Using a keystone panel is MUCH easier than a traditional one with built-in terminations. At the bottom, install a rackmount surge protector. Everything on the rack will plug in here, and plug it into the aforementioned outlet. You'll need a shelf for any non-rackmount gear. It should go in the third space from the bottom, leaving one space between it and the surge protector for running power cords. Finally, you'll need your main switch. This should be a 24-port gigabit switch, obviously with rackmount capability. This one should be perfect.
As for planning out the cables: You'll have a 24 port patch panel to work with, so make the most of it. First, run a cable to any spot in the ceiling where you want an AP, or may want one in the future. Do the same for any spot where you want a security camera, or may want one in the future. Maybe also run one to your doorbell location, in case you may want a PoE video doorbell. These cables (and only these) can get an RJ45 plug crimped onto them at the device end. All the others will be terminated to a punch-down keystone jack at both ends. The combined total of AP, camera, and doorbell cables should be no more than 8, as PoE switches with more than 8 ports are VERY expensive. You may not even need any of these now, but still put them in.
For the rest , you've got at least 16 more patch panel ports to work with. Run at least two cables to each room where you may conceivably want Ethernet. Really, all rooms except bathrooms, kitchens, and utility rooms can benefit from it. Run the cables to different locations around each room, and terminate each one using a keystone jack and keystone wallplate.
Your office should just have a dual ethernet jack(or whatever size depending on how many things that need hardwire) with one connected to the ONT and the other will run to the network rack to feed a switch. You need a network rack like this in the basement... StarTech.com 6U Wall Mount Network Equipment Rack - 14 Inch Deep - 19" Patch Panel Bracket for Shallow Server Equipment- 44lbs Capacity (WALLMOUNT6), Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VDPBXM/ref=cm_sw_r_sm_apa_glt_fabc_S39RC9GBNK2NYMYFBY2V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 And a patch panel to terminate all your ethernet cable that run through the house... Cable Matters UL Listed Rackmount or Wall Mount 24 Port Network Patch Panel (Cat6 Patch Panel / RJ45 Patch Panel) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072K1OWY/ref=cm_sw_r_sm_apa_glt_fabc_XMCS8APJ83SXB64MQJ9R?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Then a 24 port switch can mount to the network rack an you can use short ethernet jumpers to connect between the patch panel and switch.
In your current plan, you're making the one largest mistake that people tend to make when building a proper home network form the first time: Using the router for Wi-Fi. What you think of as a "wireless router" is actually three devices combined into one. A router, a switch, and an access point. The router routes data between your network and the internet, allows multiple devices to share the single public IP address provided by the ISP, prevents unwanted internet traffic from reaching the local network, and assigns private IP addresses to local network devices. The switch just moves data around within a network over Ethernet, and the access point does Wi-Fi.
In a proper network, these three devices are separate. The router is just a router, the switches are just switches, and the access points are just access points. You always need exactly one router, but you can have as many switches and access points as you need.
In addition to running Ethernet lines to rooms for devices to plug in, also run Ethernet lines to strategic spots on your ceilings for installation of access points. If your house is small and squarish, one per floor will do, each one centrally located. If it's more long and skinny, or just large in general, you may need two per floor. If you post your floor plan, I can recommend specific spots. I recommend the Ubiquiti UniFi 6 Lite or TP-Link EAP245.
For your network hub in the basement, the easiest and most flexible way to go is a wall-mount rack. It can be mounted directly to wall studs, the mounting holes have the correct spacing for this. Choose its location carefully, as all your Ethernet lines will need to run to it. It doesn't need to be near the ONT, but an Ethernet line will need to be run from it to the ONT. You'll need an electrical outlet near it, ideally on a dedicated 15A circuit.
At the top of the rack, install a keystone patch panel. All your Ethernet lines will terminate here, using keystone jacks.
At the bottom of the rack, install a surge protector. Plug it into the aforementioned outlet. It's got 10 outlets on the back and 2 on the front, which should be more than enough for anything.
Right above the surge protector (maybe leaving one space between them), install a shelf. This will be for any non-rackmount gear you need to put here, such as your router.
Last but not least, you need your main switch. Get a rackmountable 24-port gigabit switch, such as this. Install it right under the patch panel.
For all the Ethernet lines running to Ethernet jacks around the house, connect their port on the patch panel directly to a port on the main switch. You'll want a bunch of short (1-2 foot) Ethernet cables for this. For the line coming from the ONT, connect it to the router's WAN/Internet port. Note that this doesn't need to be the Verizon router, it can be any router you want. Then, connect the router's LAN port to the main switch.
For the APs, it depends on how you're powering them. APs almost always use PoE (Power over Ethernet) so you don't need to run multiple cables to them. This is normally supplied by a PoE switch, but can also use standalone PoE injectors. If the APs included injectors, then connect the PoE port of each one to the AP's port on the patch panel, the LAN port to the main switch, and plug in the power. DO NOT REVERSE THE LAN AND POE PORTS, these typically use passive, always-on PoE, so the PoE port can only connect to a device expecting it. If they don't come with injectors, you'll need a PoE switch, something small like this will be fine. Simply connect port 5 (the non-PoE port) to the main switch, and the other ports to the APs.
You can’t fit a small network rack there, like the Startech 6U guy?
Or what about this vertical network rack? You might even be able to fit your servers on something like that.
If you are concerned about heat, that’s nothing a closet fan from AC Infinity can’t solve. Before I installed mine properly, I ran it with the fans pointing out the open closet doors just sitting on a shelf. Temp probe measured 90F next to the gear. Once properly installed and closet doors closed (creating a proper airflow exchange) my rack is now 80F, 82F if it’s a really hot day.
I’m running a 24 port PoE and UNVR from unifi with 4x6TB 7200 drives, and a UDMP. That stuff gets really hot, but the closet fan is excellent help.
Now if you cannot fit any rack gear in there and instead just a small 8 port PoE switch, I kinda doubt the closet would get dangerously hot. It might not justify installing a closet fan at all.
What are your options for pulling extra drops? Do you have access to any floor/ceiling space? If you really want that pfsense box out of the closet and can pull another line to the den or wherever is closest, you could then patch from your fiber box to the pfsense box, and then patch back to the closet to connect a switch to the rest of your place.
Better yet, mount this in front and use regualr rack patch panels for the av and data :)
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Bracket-Equipment-Mounting-WALLMOUNT6/dp/B000VDPBXM
StarTech.com 6U Wall Mount Network Equipment Rack - 14 Inch Deep - 19" Patch Panel Bracket for Shallow Server Equipment- 44lbs Capacity (WALLMOUNT6), Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VDPBXM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_M5V797NW9Q1RD60HC8N4
If you're looking for ideas, here's my setup. You certainly don't need anything this fancy, but this keeps things really neat and organized, and leaves lots of room for expansion.
The main rack. It's wall-mounted in the basement, near the electric panel and FiOS ONT.
This is the rack itself. The gear in the rack is, from top to bottom...
Shelf with Raspberry Pi 3B+ with PoE hat (running Pi-hole), US-8-150W PoE switch, and USG
Cloud Key Gen2+ in its rackmount adapter
The two switches are connected using these transceivers and these cables. I used the SFP ports to avoid taking up PoE ports, and this was actually cheaper than using RJ45 (copper ethernet) SFP transceivers. Everything's doubled up for a 2 gigabit link between the switches, with the two SFP ports configured as a link aggregation group in both switches.
The ONT, which is off to the left, comes in to port 1 of the patch panel, which is in turn connected to port 1 of the main switch. Port 24 is connected to the WAN port on the USG. These two ports are in a separate "WAN Passthrough" VLAN, which isolates them from the rest of the ports. The USG's LAN port then connects back to port 22 of the main switch. It totally wasn't necessary to do this, I could've just connected port 1 on the patch panel to the USG's WAN port, but this just makes the wiring much neater, and I've got the ports to spare.
Port 2 goes to the second floor, where it connects to a secondary PoE switch, a US-8-60W, that feeds the 2nd floor AP and Ethernet jacks. This is because I was only able to run a single cable between floors.
Ports 3 and 4 are for the APs, a Lite in the basement and a Pro on the first floor. The 2nd floor also has a Pro. I got these before the NanoHD was out, it's a much better choice now.
The PoE switch powers these two APs, the Raspberry Pi, and the Cloud Key. Its remaining four ports are intended for cameras.
The Cloud Key is Ubiquiti's dedicated device for hosting the controller, and the "plus" version also acts as a NVR for their security camera system, UniFi Protect. I don't have any cameras yet, but everything's ready for them. A cloud key is not at all necessary to run UniFi, the controller can simply be installed on a PC (ideally Ethernet-connected) and doesn't need to run all the time. If you do want it running all the time on a dedicated device, a Raspberry Pi is the cheapest option. Other cost-saving measures are not using managed switches (UniFi switches aren't even needed) and not using PoE switches. UniFi APs include a PoE injector that can be used instead, but results in more wiring mess.
Having used both, keystone hands down. You don't need access to the rear of the panel to do terminations, jacks are much easier to terminate, you can move the jacks around without reterminating, and you can terminate any other cables (Coax, HDMI, speaker, phone etc) using appropriate keystones.
I recommend these, to be located at your central location:
6U wall-mount rack. The mounting holes are spaced 16" apart, so it can easily be mounted directly to wall studs.
24-port keystone patch panel. Mount to the top spot of the rack.
Rackmount surge protector. Mount to the bottom spot of the rack, connect to a dedicated 15A circuit, ideally through a UPS.
A shelf for non-rackmount gear.
A rackmount gigabit switch. Mount it right under the patch panel, and use 1 foot patch cables to connect them.
This is the one:
Seems pretty well built and sturdy. I like it so far!
Best bet, as you say you're looking at wiring a house, would be to find a location with power (a closet), and install a small network rack. In the rack, I'd recommend (no affiliation with these brands, including the rack, just a happy customer):
Ubiquiti 16 port rack mount POE switch -- not sure which one to get right now. I'm running an older 24 port ubiquiti poe switch)
For your wireless access points, I strongly recommend sticking with Ubiquiti
This is likely overkill for your situation, but I have three similar setups to this across various family's houses, and they all work great.
You could reduce cost by not going rack mountable and dropping the switch to an 8, if that's a concern.
Yes. I got it over at Amazon.
StarTech.com 6U Wall Mount Patch Panel Bracket - 14 inch Deep - 19" Patch Panel Rack for Shallow Network Equipment- 44lbs Capacity (WALLMOUNT6) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VDPBXM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7Kp-Db4DY7820
I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Bracket-Equipment-Mounting-WALLMOUNT6/dp/B000VDPBXM/ with a shelf and a PDU in it. so it's 6U, 12" deep. That will absolutely not fit any servers/computers other than a Pi though. I have ubiquiti equipment that fits just fine.
StarTech.com 6U Wall Mount... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VDPBXM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
maybe something like this:
or this:
I recommend putting in a full Ubiquiti UniFi system.
Find a good spot on a wall in your basement for a wall-mount network rack. Its mounting holes are 16" apart, so it can easily be mounted directly to wall studs. Install a keystone patch panel in the top spot and a power bar in the bottom spot. You'll want to add a shelf for any non-rackmount gear.
For your switch, you have a few choices. Your APs will be powered with PoE, so you'll ideally want a PoE switch. But they're expensive. The simplest solution would be a 16-port PoE switch. Alternatively, you could go with just a standard switch and use the included PoE injectors to power the APs. Or you could use two switches, a small PoE switch and a large standard switch.
For your router, you'll want the UniFi Security Gateway. Simply connect WAN1 to your modem/ONT and LAN1 to the main switch.
For the APs, you'll want the NanoHD for heavy-use areas and the Lite for light-use areas such as the basement. I recommend at least one per floor, centrally ceiling mounted. There's also the Pro, but it doesn't make much sense to get anymore. The Lite has two streams each of 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz, the Pro has three of each, and the NanoHD has two 2.4 GHz streams and four 5 GHz streams. The Pro only makes sense if you need that third 2.4 GHz stream.
Lastly, you'll want something to run the controller on. They make a dedicated device that also serves as a NVR for their security camera system, but it's not necessary for just running the network controller. You could just put it on a desktop PC and only run it for initial setup and to make changes, it doesn't need to run all the time. If you do want it running all the time on a dedicated device, the cheapest option is a Raspberry Pi.
I've got something very similar to what you're planning, that I just set up in the last few months.
The full rack. The rack itself is the StarTech 6U.
The equipment, from top to bottom:
24-port keystone patch panel
US-24
Shelf with Pi-Hole (Raspberry Pi 3B+ with PoE hat), US-8-150W, USG.
Cloud Key Gen2+ in its rackmount adapter.
PDU
What's not pictured is the ONT, the cable from it goes to port 1 on the patch panel and port 1 on the main switch. Ports 1 and 24 are in a separate "WAN Passthrough" VLAN, which allows both the WAN and LAN ports on the USG to be directly connected to the switch. The two switches are connected by the SFP ports in link aggregation, using these transceivers and these cables. This turned out to be cheaper than using RJ45 SFP modules.
Future upgrade plans are to install four security cameras, which will be powered by the four free ports on the PoE switch, and to replace the USG with the UXG-Pro.
If you're looking for something permanent-ish, I used one of these for my house. I mounted it to the studs in my mechanicals room and have been home running everything back there. It's not super-heavy duty but can hold up to 80 lbs so you could put a small UPS and lightweight servers into the rack there as well. The big constraint is that it's 12" deep so if you're looking at serious enterprise hardware you're likely going to have trouble making it fit.
Edit: Here's mine so far. My current plans include running all of the coax back to that panel, changing the old router to a dedicated switch, adding some fiber, and get a small UPS in there.
Agree. Though surely you'll need an NVR (or the very capable CloudKey Gen2+ from Ubiquiti if you like), a USB or surge protector, and will possibly want to place your ISP gateway in here, too, so a rack probably makes sense.. just a small wallmount 6U rack would be nice (see https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Mounting-Bracket-Patch-Panel/dp/B000VDPBXM ).
Here's an example, which is from this article. This is my freestanding rack in my study. I got much of my inspiration from that article. Here's yet another example.
You can get smaller racks. Maybe something as small as a 6U tall rack. There are rack shelves that you can get, in varying depths, to hold gear that doesn't rack mount, like your modem and NAS. For a small rack, put the shelf up top. A rack mount power strip is also handy. Add a keystone patch panel to connect up the cables from each of your rooms to. Wire each one to a keystone jack and pop into the patch panel. Check the labeling on the ethernet cables in your IC panel to determine which Cat# type of keystones to get.
Also add a switch. Add up your wired devices that you will have in the closet, plus the rooms that you will be connecting, plus one port as an uplink to your router, plus a few extra for future use, to figure the number of ports you will need on a switch. If you don't expect that you will need a bunch of devices that require power from PoE, then you can save a good deal of money and get a non-PoE switch. If you have a small number of devices needing PoE, you can just power them with PoE injectors.
I'd add a router to that setup. Maybe a UniFi USG or EdgeRouter. Use your current WiFi router only as a wireless access point.
Plenty of zip ties. Can you push any of the cable slack back up into the wall? I was able to do that with my panel and it cleaned up nicely. Though, I did not have to deal with drywall.
Maybe the red and skinny white wires might be for alarm system sensors and/or phones.
We no longer have cable TV, but we do use our coax with an attic mounted HD antenna for over the air channels. So, those cables may still be useful.
If you can, get a small wall mount rack, a rack shelf (for your USG, switch and CK), a Cat6 patch panel, and maybe a rack mountable power strip. Take the door off of your IC panel and just install the rack over the panel.
Here it is if you're interested. I Switched the top bracket to the bottom since it was in my way for all IoT devices.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VDPBXM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It was only $43 on Amazon. Totally worth it. Here’s the one.
By satellites I'm referring to dish satellites that you may want to mount on the exterior of the house for any cable service you want such as DirecTV and similar providers. Here's a picture.
If you wish to have the ability to hot swap the Internet feed to any room at any time, all you need to do is find the coax cable that currently runs into the house. From there, you extend that cable with this coupler only if the cable doesn't reach your preferred central point, and then that goes to the central point. So then all the coaxial cables are heading to the central point, you should always label regardless of how much you think you memorize where each cable heads to. Now you do the same thing, get the coaxial with the ISP feed, put a coupler on it and pick the corresponding coaxial cable the modem will be in and attach it to the coupler. Like I mentioned before, I would recomneed having the modem sit in the central point. It'll have the same outcome as if you were putting it in a room but this just ensures all your equipment is one place and prevents you running longer cables from one point to another because the modem is in one room and the central point is another.
Now for the ethernet wiring, one hole slightly bigger the size of a golf ball should do for coaxial and ethernet. This is an example of a good install. All the cabling goes to one location in the house, the cables are securely punched down to a patch panel which the patch panel is securely mounted on a wall rack. Here's some items that will get you a clean and professional look while not breaking the bank: