What is Reddit's opinion of Streamlight 69110 TLR-1 300-Lumen Weapon Light, Includes Rail Locating Keys For Glock Style, 1913 Picatinny, S&W 99/TSW, and Beretta 90two, Black?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

From experience and from talking to other hunters, I'd recommend getting a red LED light. Red doesn't affect your vision so when you turn it off your eyes don't have to adjust as much, and it also doesn't draw as much attention to your self.

On all my pistols I've only had a white light, like this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JWD16E/ref=as_li_tf_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000JWD16E&linkCode=as2&tag=besttactiflas-20

Never used a pistol to hunt, mainly because you can't in Canada, so I can't comment on that.

Never used blue for blood tracking, only used white.

Tlr-1. It comes with a bunch of different rail keys so you can see which one fits best. It also has the largest aftermarket holster support should you want to get a holster that fits it.

http://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-69110-Mounted-Weapon-Flashlight/dp/B000JWD16E

Streamlight 69110 TLR-1 Weapon Mount Tactical Flashlight Light - 300 Lumens,Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JWD16E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_0T0GP7DYSGB8VGTJ5RPV

Bruh, streamlight themselves have a seller store on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-69110-Tactical-Light-Weapons/dp/B000JWD16E

Streamlight 69110 TLR-1 300 Lumen Weapon Mount Tactical Flashlight Light,Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JWD16E/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_DQE88HF5S3QC31AE6RQ7

Ok, well we can start there. This is a relatively easy light to shop for because it really only has to do one, relatively simple thing. It will probably be your most expensive light though, in terms of price, weight, and post apocalyptic energy consumption. But since it’s a light you will use in life or death situations, you get what you pay for.

With a weapon as lightweight as an AR it is possible to use a handheld light in a pinch, but it’s annoying, and you end up giving up some of your weapon support, so a weapon mounted light is a small but significant advantage.

In terms of what to look for, I recommend something that isn’t too powerful. One mistake people make with lights is that they think brighter is always better, which is not the case. On a combat light, a bright light does give you more distance, and also can momentarily make it harder for your attacker to see. The primary trade off is that indoors, these lights will also cause too much splash back, which affects your vision. Since most of your critical fighting, whether against humans or zombies, will be in relatively close quarters, you want to make sure you get a light that’s bright, but not so bright you blind yourself. Brighter lights also tend to suck more power, which often makes them heavier, more likely to die in the middle of a fight, and of course in an off grid situation they will use up more of your limited electrical supply.

Now, what counts as “too bright” does depend on how concentrated the beam is, and different manufacturers measure output differently, but as a general rule of thumb I recommend somewhere in the 200-300 lumen range.

One problem you see with a lot of lights is that manufacturers often add way too many bells and whistles. This appeals to the marketing side of things, but it actually makes a light much more difficult to use under pressure. That’s very bad in a combat light. A good combat light should have two modes, “constant on” and “momentary on.” Those are fairly self explanatory. Any other features are not features, they are bugs. With any combat light, you will use momentary on almost exclusively most of the time, in very short bursts. This is primarily to make it more difficult for a human enemy to pinpoint your location in the dark, and can also help to disrupt their night vision if they are not used to it. But it is useful to be able to lock it into constant on mode in case you need to use the weapon one handed. Ideally, you want both functions to have discrete controls, so each button or switch only does one thing, and you cannot activate one when you mean to activate the other.

Keep in mind that for close quarters fighting, a lot of pistol mounted lights also make excellent rifle lights, and are often much lighter weight, which is important.

I’ll give you a few different options to consider, though there are a lot of great options out there.

Streamlight 69110 TLR-1 Weapon Mount Tactical Flashlight Light - 300 Lumens https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JWD16E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_s0eIDbABDFN0G This is an excellent all around light, and one of the best for the money. It will mount to any sort of rail on a pistol or rifle, takes 2 CR123 batteries (which do come in a rechargeable, though you may lose some power and battery life that way). On a rifle it’s perfectly usable with thumb switches, or if you prefer they sell an optional remote switch setup. These are one of the most common weapon lights used in law enforcement both for rifles and pistols, and I would not hesitate to trust one with my life.

Inforce W-05-1 400 Lumens Gen 2 Multi-Function Weapon Mounted Light, White/Black, XXX-Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LW4MEUG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_57eIDbFCAHNBM This is a rifle specific light. They are very simple to use, and very ergonomic, which is important on a weapon mounted light. You need to be able to reach it easily. They have a momentary/constant on modes, but you can also flip a switch that will make it momentary only, which is useful, and they have a physical lock that you can use to prevent accidental discharge when not in use. (Accidental light discharge can be a problem on a rifle light because it will bump against your body/gear). There are several versions of this light, some of which are too bright or have features you don’t need or want, but some of which would work very well for your purposes. I have a version of this light on my own rifle.

SureFire M300 Mini Scout M300 Mini Scout Light w/Z68 Click-Type tailcap pushbutton Switch, Black, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KZD83DW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_rrfIDbR1Z7JH4 These are a bit pricier than the other options, and tend to be on the heavy side, but they are absolutely bomb proof. Anything Surefire is going to last a lifetime. This model is right on the upper level of the brightness you would want, and it’s a single battery light which saves you some weight on the front of your gun. It takes a single CR123 battery, so rechargeables are an option. You may lose a bit of power, but like I said this is almost too much anyway, so that’s probably fine.

Or, if you want the cadillac option, there’s this one. https://www.surefire.com/m600ib-z68-bk-scout-light.html This is a big, relatively heavy, relatively expensive light, but it does have surefire’s “intellibeam” system, which is one of the few new flashlight technologies that is actually worth having. What it does is sense the amount of light being reflected back at the user, and adjust the intensity of the output automatically. So no matter what you point it at, near or far, you always get as much light as possible without blinding yourself. I have this on my work light, and it’s a game changer. You can use the same light to search a car or a closet that you use to shine across a field, all without requiring any additional thought or input from the user. So far surefire is the only one with something like this, and only on a handful of their lights, but at some point I have no doubt this will be considered an essential feature in a combat light. It’s that good.

This light does use 2 CR123 batteries, which is ok, though you will probably get a very short run time with rechargeables, even by the standards of a tactical light (which all have fairly short run times). However, I strongly suspect that surefire is currently working on a “dual fuel” version of this light, which would get much better performance with rechargeable batteries, and be able to use a rechargeable 18650 battery or CR123 batteries. Because keeping it charged would be a big deal in a zombie situation, it might be worth waiting until they come out with a version that is both “dual fuel” and “intellibeam.” My (handheld) work light has both, and they are both worth having, in my opinion.

Many handheld lights can also be made into a weapon light with the addition of a rail mount. This is a cheap and reliable option, though these lights are often fairly heavy. Also keep in mind that not all handheld lights are designed to withstand recoil so even if you have a very high quality light you want to check before using it as a weapon light.

Depending on which version of the Ruger you have, you will need to either get an MLOK rail section, or you can get a rail mount that attaches to an A2 front sight post, like this. Midwest Industries Tactical Light Mount for Standard Front Sight, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002E6PAHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_5hfIDbXM6VMJE I know several people who use these along with a pistol light, and it’s a very functional setup. You can also get similar mounts that attach to the bayonet lug, if you prefer.

How/where to light the mount tends to depend on your personal preferences and shooting style, so there are a million different ways to set it up. You just have to find something that’s easy to use for you.

If you aren’t carrying a pistol, which most people won’t need, then you probably won’t need a handheld combat light, so the weapon light will be your biggest ticket item.

Sure!

• This PSA 9mm AR

• Strike Industries ARCH AR-15 charging handle with extended latch

• TLR-1 (although you can get a better light, this is just what I had)

• with rifle pressure switch

• SiCo Osprey 45 with 9mm rifle piston, although I wouldn't recommend the Osprey, I've RMA'd mine twice for seizing on the pistol I have pictured. You can actually see the aluminum anti-seize stuff I put on the threaded barrel in the pistol pic, and it still seized during light shooting. A normal suppressor with no tiny-ass brake shoe wouldn't have that issue.

• Magpul AFG

• Magpul MBUS

• Bushnell trophy cheap-ass red dot. Might get a holosun soon

• Glock 33rd factory mags

In fact, $100 even right now. All the inforce pistol lights are more.

this plus this or this and this

I'll list a few options here, and try to explain my choice in them.

Surefire X300 A simple light with only one mode. Turn it on and you have light. It is pretty small, and shouldn't weigh the gun down too much. It is rather expensive though.

Streamlight TLR-1 Similar to the Surefire, but at a much lower price.

For even more options, you can buy a flashlight holder such as this, and mount any light to the gun with a 1" diameter (there are mounts that will hold other diameter lights as well.) I could list hundreds of lights here, but for now I'll just leave the two above. If you don't like them, give me a few more ideas about what you think you might want in a light and I'll see what else I can dig up.

Oh and both of those lights use CR123A batteries. Which are nice because they work in a wide range of temperatures, and have a 10 year shelf life. However these batteries can be expensive if you don't buy them in the right places. A favorite of mine is Battery Junction.

Okay so here goes. The disclaimer is that I am not a cop, I am not a trainer, I'm not a fighter, and I have no formal experience. This is just something I've spent a lot of time thinking about:

I like pepper spray, but it's in the same way I like handguns: Bigger is better. Shoot farther and make it hurt. Douse that motherfucker and stop the fight ASAP (the run like hell, that's ALWAYS the best choice). The little palm models that only spray 2-3 feet are suspect for me, as you have to be close, your arms may be pinned, and you're gonna get it in your face as well.

Can you fit a can of "Bear grade" pepper spray in your purse? Go to an outdoor store and see if you can. I'm talking the kind of shit that shoots 20 feet or more. Test it out at lest once a year, and replace it at least every two years if not sooner.

This is my favorite, because it's nasty, uses combustible propellant, and actually looks somewhat like a gun (which trips psychological warning bells in an attacker's head):

http://www.botachtactical.com/liactjpxjetp.html

Caveat: Botach Tactical is a suspect-as-shit company. Buy from them at your own risk. Google shop if you want.

It's not only got sights, but it's got a rail under the barrel that you can attach something like this to for extra intimidation factor:

http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/streamlight/non-rechargeable/tactical/tlr-2.htm?gclid=CI7Sjb-tuagCFcOd7QodqHLwAw#00036223?ref=gbase

That's got a light AND a laser. This is (IMHO only) the pinnacle of non-lethal stuff. Very expensive, and you're right that you could get an excellent handgun for that price, but you would need at least double the cost (if not triple) to really become competent with the idea of firearms-based lethal force. I don't actually recommend this for you at this point. This setup could be done a bit cheaper with just the bright light like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-TLR-1-Mounted-Weapon-Flashlight/dp/B000JWD16E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1303792562&sr=8-1

The whole point is something called "Force projection". You need to be able to intimidate your potential attackers, and it's not actually hard to do. They're not demons. They're not lions. They're cowardly scavengers, and they can be deterred quite easily.

The one thing I worry about with the JPX is something called "escalation". If you were to pull this on someone and they thought it was a gun, and they had their own, they might pul it and fire at you. That said, you drew first in that instance, and you can douse their face and run like hell and should be okay. The JPX blasts pepper spray out to 20 feet, which is where the VAST majority of encounters happen in.

Tasers: I don't like these for personal defense for a number of reasons, and many people with far better credentials (AKA: any at all) would disagree with me. I view these as a law-enforcement only, stopgap method of less-than-lethal control of a suspect for officers that have a backup firearm and training if the taser fails. Here's why:

1. They're as expensive as many good handguns outright.
2. They only work in a narrow spectrum of distance, and the electrodes need to land a specific set of inches apart on the attacker to take effect.
3. Heavy clothing can negate the effectiveness because the electrodes have to penetrate skin.
4. You only have one shot. If everything doesn't go as planned, then you no longer have a weapon at all.

Do your reading. I'm by no means an expert, but that's my take on them and I don't recommend them.

Stun Guns: IF you can draw them before an attacker is on you, you can use them on the attacker with painful results. They are good in a narrow spectrum in that they cause a lot of pain (but NOT incapacitation) at close-contact distances. Not my first-line suggestion, but they're useful.

Knives.....short answer: Every girl should have one. Long answer: No. It's messy, it's hard to deploy, and it's even harder to control and get yourself out of a fight with one. The old saying is that "The best outcome of a knife fight is that the winner goes to the hospital and the loser goes to the morgue. Sometimes both go to the morgue." Knives can, however, be a good "force projection" tool if you draw them early enough and use the intimidation factor to stop a fight before it starts. Actual Knife fighting is harder than gunfighting, and messier, and I'm not trained nor am I training in knife fighting for this reason. That said, I've used a knife long ago to back someone down and make the cost to them higher than they were willing to accept at the time to attack me.

If you want a knife, that's hot. A girl with a knife is awesome. Guys (normal, non-rapist guys) dig that. I have this pretty little thing on my hip right now:

http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=BM930S

The blue handle looks sweet with blue jeans. Yes I know that's a little gay. Whatever. Very happy with this knife. If you wanted to go that way, you could be the savior and resident box-opener of your sorority and everyone will think you're cool and kind of dangerous. For self-defense? No. Not really.

So I hope that writeup and those links help. PLEASE run this by your more trusted friends and family and let them read what I wrote. I am by no means an expert. I'm just telling you want I think makes sense to me based on my reading and my experience.

Cheers,

Billy