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Not OP but having been built and modded a few boards I can safely say best lube is Krytox 205g0 is ideal for switches. Dielectric grease for stabilizers (stabs). It’s pretty pricey for the amount you get. On budget boards you can get very good results with super lube 51004
since these are not hot swap boards, you will need to desolder switches. So if you want to retain warranty, this will undoubtedly void it, proceed with caution.
I've been using Super Lube for a few years now on all of my printers and it works much better than traditional grease (IMHO) as it can actually get into the bearings.
Once every month or two, I apply a small amount to the rods or rails, move the axis through it's full range of motion several times and then wipe off the excess with a clean, dry cloth and all the bearings are smooth and quiet. Depending on your environment and how much you print, you may want to do this more or less often.
NOTE: I'm no expert, just trying to provide a solution that works for me.
that one is decent but this is what i was taking about Super Lube 51004 Synthetic Oil with PTFE, High Viscosity, 4 oz Bottle,Translucent white [link]
This is a good one I linked below - pretty recommended in most yt videos. I had a similar-ish problem after approx 6 months of printing and I took that rod out and rubbed it down (giggity) with Iso alc to clean it off then applied this stuff seemed to smooth it all out:
[link] something like this. Could be used on bearings, shifter cables, etc but if you look at the reviews people have done switches with it. In case link didn't work it is super lube 51004 PTFE oil.
Super Lube 51004 Synthetic Oil with PTFE, High Viscosity, 4 oz Bottle,Translucent white [link]
This is what I’ve been using on my printers since 2016. I use it on the smooth rods and on the lead screws. The only machine I don’t put it on is the lead screws of my Bear Prusa MK3S that build during COVID because it has some sort of plastic nut. The rest of my machines have brass nuts.
Oh yeah, I would definitely guess 5 year old filament would give you problems. Haha.
I don't know a ton about printer maintenance/repair beyond the basics, so you may wanna look into whether your need to replace belts and such if they're seeming old, that might cause your skewing. But again, not an expert on it, maybe make another post about it (specifying it's a 5 year old printer you got from a friend along with the brand/model and pictures along with pics of the skewed prints and ask for advice on fixing the machine?). It probably also wouldn't be the worst idea to re-grease the guide rails (I use this, but it's a pretty easy topic to google and research and confirm what would be good for your printer).
Some people like to keep their filament inside the air tight case while they print. Making the mods to the tupperware just seems like too much of a hassle for me, haha. I keep mine in open air (printers are in my apartment living room, no enclosure) while I print, haven't noticed any problems yet. I'm just sure to put the filament away again once I'm done. They do absorb humidity, but it's not a case of "oops you left it out for 5 minutes, you're shit outta luck I guess". As long as you're not leaving them out for, like, days on end in a humid place, you should be fine. I got my big tupperware from Walmart, just grabbed one with good clamps and a soft gasket to keep a decent seal, and it seems to be doing alright for me.
I used this to lube my ducky with reds by pushing down the switch with a mechanical pencil and dropping it in each corner. You could desolder but it's a pain and is at least as risky to solder vs drop lubing if ur a noob.
technically yes but it wouldn't have a desirable result if you want switch lube for cheep just get this
I would just wait. Why spend more money? You could always just disassemble and prep so that you are ready to go when it does arrive.
I have an keyboard with outemu reds I want to lube. I researched a bit and found that a lot of people recommend krytox oil and lube, but I dont want to spend much money. I found this super lube oil on amazon for 9 dollars, and you get much more than if you order the krytox, and it also seems to have very similar specifications to the oil. Would it work well for lubing my switches? This is the lube.
I use synthetic oil with PTFE. Specifically Super Lube 51004 Synthetic Oil with PTFE
Just a few drops on the bearings. Don't use grease. Grease on ball bearings will start to collect grime and will require you clean them over time. An oil wont accumulate into a grimy mess, and will even act as a cleaner.
I'm no expert, but they sound fine to me. I don't know about that lube though, someone recomended Super Lube to me and it's awesome stuff. Mine quieted down a lot after a few hours of running after I applied that lube.
I've seen a lot of people say that linear bearings don't need lube, I think they are crazy.
Also, I was told not to spin them, they are made to go linearly, not circularly.
Pro tip, would be to use a small tip screwdriver to apply small globs of grease to the contact points of the stem of each keycap and spread them out.
I've tried less viscous oils like this and while they do the job and are easy to apply, they wear out quicker and you'll feel friction again. The synthetic grease brought the keyboard feel to near mech level, and lasts for a long ass time.
You'll probably get 20 different answers here, but this is what I use:
I lubricate the pivot points with a synthetic oil:
To protect them from rust and corrosion, I wipe them down with a dry lubricant:
I have the same problem with all of my medium sided and up Victorinox tools. The 93mm Alox ones seem the worst. I have asked around, and I think it's just normal. I keep my nails trimmed, so a couple of my new Alox tools are sitting unused.
I used a little synthetic oil on my Super Tinker, and it helped a little. This: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UKUHXK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
I also opened and closed every tool on it many times making sure the lubricant worked its way in. I'm sure just the opening and closing a lot helped too.
I used super lube 51004
Here is the link https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UKUHXK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for the help!
Hey guys, I'm from the r/MechanicalKeyboards sub but I also like to cube occasionally.
We use this thing called super lube to make the keyboards sound better, but I'm wondering if I can also use it to lube the cubes. Thanks!
So Cherry MX Reds and Browns are completely different. One is tactile and the other is linear. If you prefer the tactile bump in the Browns and want something that might feel a little bit better to touch, you could go with Glorious Pandas ($0.69/switch) or Kailh Speed Copper ($0.28/switch). If you don't like that tactile bump and want to try a linear switch, then a good starting point would be the Cherry MX Reds. There extremely accessible, but if you are looking for a more budget option, then I would recommend the Gateron Yellows ($0.20/switch). If you have a little bit more money, then you could go for the Gateron Black Inks($0.75/switch) or NovelKey Creams($0.65/switch), which are two of the best linear in the market.
Now if you are only left between Cherry MX Browns and Cherry MX Reds to use then I highly recommend the Reds because they feel a lot more consistent in my opinion. I have used both Browns and Reds and I do play Valorant as well, and trust me, Reds feel a lot better.
Now if you want to make your Reds even better, then you could choose to lube them. If you are not planning to desolder your switches, then I recommend SuperLube, super cheap and works pretty well. I have heard about quite a few complaints saying that they might eat at your switches, so make sure to research about that. If you are planning to desolder your switches and individually lube them, then Krytox 205g0 would work the best. Lubing your switches is one of the cheapest ways to upgrade any switch feel, and once you do it, you can't go back.
I spent like 20 minutes writing this so hope it helps lol.
I got this, it’s good high quality stuff perfect for bearings, and very cheap. Super Lube 51004 Synthetic Oil... [link]
I used it on Kailh browns! made it way smoother and quieter. Thou don't just use grease, mix it with oil: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UKUHXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_bBTCzbQT38CGP
Oh have you done that with just grease before? I find it make little scratchy with just grease.
Thou for my Zilents I will be using 3203.
^Item&nbsp;Info | Bot&nbsp;Info | Trigger
I use packing foam; it has more density than the shelf liner or cloth, but is a bitch to cut sometimes. Shelf liner is the easiest, and terry cloth is the most hilarious, as you're stuffing wash cloths into a keyboard. If you want to really go full budget mod, get some "Super Lube" from Amazon and then "Push Lube" stems of your switches. With Blues it won't help a ton with the rattle but is awesome anyway. Lube your stabilizers also.
i use super lube it do not last a long time but so good https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51004-Synthetic-Viscosity/dp/B000UKUHXK/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=super+lube&qid=1632529812&sr=8-6 i use 3in1 to
Can I oil my falcon with this?
If the adhesion is too aggressive, a few drops of PTFE silicone lube spread on the fep sheet with a shop towel will help.
This is what I use and absolutely love it. It was recommended to my by a very knowledgeable and experienced person. I hope you can find it in the UK. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UKUHXK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've been using this one with PTFE: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51004-Synthetic-Viscosity/dp/B000UKUHXK.
It works just fine. I've been bag lubing springs with it for nearly a year and haven't had any issues.
There's no NEED for Krytox oil here. Krytox is just what has become "the normal" and it's what most people have learned to recommend.
I use this [link]
I had problems similar to this, and while I don't know exactly WHICH of these things fixed it, I do know that after I did all of them, it seemed to be much better.
This looks like Z screw binding or wobble. The Z screw on the Ender series stuff is not perfectly straight. When you are performing some of the things I'm going to list out, you can see in action what I am talking about, by taking the Z screw completely off the printer, laying it on a flat surface, and trying to roll it across the flat surface. It is definitely not perfectly straight, which can lead to some of the layer shifting you're seeing.
To help alleviate this, there is a Z axis "shim" that you can print on Thingiverse:
There are other versions of this sort of thing, but I am partial to anything that attaches to the T slot grooves. Print one of those, and install it as shown in his pictures. You WILL need to disassemble quite a bit of your machine to get it in there. One thing to keep in mind when installing this, leave as many screws loose on the printed part as you can until you have "settled" the motion. To settle the up/down motion, loosely tighten the screws enough so things aren't flopping about, but can be shifted with some gentle persuasion. With everything loose, move the X axis rail up and down by hand. It should move smoothly with a little pressure. If you find it binding up, wiggle the Z axis stepper a little bit and try again. Eventually, you will find a sweet spot for it where things move smoothly. That is the time to tighten everything down....then try moving it again to make sure the act of tightening it down didn't cause more binding. Keep doing these steps till the mount is fully tightened and the X axis rail can move as smoothly as possible along the Z axis screw.
Meanwhile, while you are doing the above process, it's a good time to give your machine some love...and by love I mean lubrication. Buy both of these items:
While you have things off and under maintenance for the Z axis motor mount, you should apply the grease to the Z axis screw. It doesn't take much, and you don't want to overdo it and gum up the works. I usually put a dab on my thumb and forefinger, and slowly massage it into the screw threads on the Z axis screw. While you are trying to settle your machine during the install of the Z axis motor mount, this is the right time for lubing the Z screw, since you're going to be moving the X axis up and down the Z screw, this will help push it around. Make sure to wipe off any thick excess from the top and bottom of the travel zone.
The lubricating oil can and should be used on the roller wheels. Apply it VERY lightly, it should just make the rubber wheel shine a bit. You can also apply some to a folded up paper towel and wipe it along the T-slot channels that the roller wheels ride in. This will make the wheels roll smoothly and gently on the channels.
Do all of the above steps, tighten everything up (literally, give every bolt you can see a check with an allen wrench.) then plug it in, home all 3 axes with the machine's controller (not Octoprint) and give the bed a really solid levelling pass.
I highly advise, before doing any sort of maintenance or corrective work on a machine, to print a test print so you can see before and after if you have made things better or worse. Lots of people use Benchy, I prefer to use Flowalistik's Low-Poly Eevee. In the before maintenance print, make note of where there are layer shifts or issues. Since we are adjsuting the Z axis, you should pay close attention to layer lines, and where the layers shift. Print your test prints at 0.2mm resolution, it's "easier" to count the layer lines if absolutely necessary to figure out where binding might be occurring on the Z axis. 5 layers per mm, pretty easy to figure out exactly where a layer shift is happening and you can then adjust things again if needed, and test that the X axis rail is moving smoothly through that section of the print on subsequent runs.
I personally use some Super Lube from Amazon (similar to something like a Krytox 105g0 but cheeeeap) -- and usually just a couple drops is plenty. Enough to coat the springs lightly. Has worked well for some Gat Yellows and some Glor Pandas I've done with them.
Check out the lubing tutorial and thin lube tutorial from <strong>u/hbheroinbob</strong> (the maker of these switches).
There are also video guides such as this (official method) and this (unofficial method) that you can follow.
Personally I used the Tribosys 3203 with the official method for the rails, and SuperLube for the spring. They work great, but I'm just a beginner. I recommend you follow the official tutorial for the best result.
I did a bunch of research and found that Superlube grease is great for stabilizers (which I've tried and can confirm) and that Superlube oil can be mixed with it to make a good lube for switches. Discussion here.
I ordered this oil and this grease.
Oh! That didn't even occur to me. I've ordered some of this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UKUHXK/ Hopefully this works!
People have been doing this with superlube for years, you're cool for just jumping in with q tips though lol.
If you want to do it legit get some of their oil and grease and find a ratio that feels okay. I could never get it feeling as nice as krytox, but it works.
See page 25 for the screws in question on the picture labeled 4. If a screw is loose it could be cause the issue. If not, you could lubricate the hinges yourself pretty easily using a small amount of PTFE lubricant. Just apply a very small amount in the hinge joints, open and close the hinges a few times to work in the lubricant and wipe away any excess.
Yes, it's oil-based which means the viscosity between 106 and 205g0 is different. It would affect the feel on your switches differently if you're crucial about that.
Like /u/MysteriousLie7 said you most likely wouldn't need too much lube if you're only going to use it on one keyboard.
Alternatively, you could try a mixture of superlube's synthetic oil and grease for a similar result, but purchasing both would be around the same price as getting 5ml of krytox.
Side note: Diaelectric grease for stabilizers!
What about painting on super lube 51004 It's much cheaper that krytox and it has reviews saying it worked great.
This lube, OIL not grease, 4 ounces which should be enough to last a lifetime. ;)
Any high-viscosity PTFE based oil (NOT GREASE, which may bind and cause the rollers to fail) should be fine for both linear bearings and radial bearings. <code>Super Lube 51004</code>, <code>Lubit-8</code>, probably <code>3-in-One</code>, etc. Some people even recommend oils such as WD-40 or regular machine oil - but I would stray from these as they are not specifically designed for this application and may have unintended side effects (such as possibly being able to dissolve or otherwise deform some plastics).
It's mostly unnecessary, though - these bearings are intentionally sealed and in most cases shouldn't need servicing for several years. My house is particularly dusty so I do lubricate them every few hundred print hours (thanks to pets + forced gas heating with a terrible filter system). I do this by dropping a few drops on the rod, wiping it along the rod with a paper tower, then dropping a drop right by each side of each bearing and sliding the bearing completely over that spot several times. I do this by manually (gently) moving the axes with the Mk3 powered down, save for the Z axis which should not be moved manually, and which I move using the "two-second-hold" hotkey on the LCD's Knob. If the LCD flickers on you're moving the axes too fast :P.
Would look into that! Thanks. What kind of super lube? I have this Super Lube 51004
Would that work?
Use a little lube where the stabilizer slides against the housing. Try a tiny bit of Super Lube 51004 Synthetic Oil with PTFE, High Viscosity, 4 oz Bottle [link].
I have a membrane keyboard I cleaned out with dish detergent. Now the switch guides kind of stick and I noticed they were lubricated before the cleaning. Which would you go for?