https://www.amazon.com/Surf-Craft-Design-Culture-Riding/dp/0262027607
I know I have this book, it's got a little bit of what you're looking for
Surf Craft: Design and the Culture of Board Riding (MIT Press) https://www.amazon.com/dp/0262027607/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3W13Ab4ARWBDQ