Yeah, that's the unfortunate thing about those ebay eyepieces - they take a long time to get. So if you wanted something quicker, then buying them from Amazon is a good alternative. The 68 degree eyepiece is effectively the same thing as the one I linked you to. They claim a wider apparent field, but I'm willing to bet those new "red lines" are optically identical to the original "gold lines".
All that being said, they sell a kit of four of these (6, 9, 15, and 20) for just $99.
Since you'd already be spending like $80 for the 6 and 9mm separately, getting the whole kit for $99 is a bargain, especially since the 20mm in that kit would be a significant upgrade to the 20mm that came with your scope.
FYI, I have a scope very similar to this (114mm / 910mm focal length) and my 19mm 68 degree eyepiece, and 9mm "gold line" are WONDERFUL eyepieces in that scope. If you got the 20mm 68 degree eyepiece, it would give you extremely pleasing low power views through it.
Yup, that is a good deal. The only accessories that I think are super important are: - a Telrad or Rigel Quickfinder - the book “Turn Left at Orion” - and the app SkySafari Plus (it makes star hopping much easier)
Less important but also very useful: - an RACI finder (a good 8x50 one can be bought for about $70 USD) - additional eyepieces (these are recommended budget ones). But if you have a larger budget, there are more options. - Oh and download the free desktop software Stellarium
Yup, that is a “goldline”! Goldlines all have 66° AFOV, have that gold ring, and I think are all called Ultra Wide Angle.
There is also a Redline series that look like these and are basically the same as the “goldlines” but are 68°.
I second u/schorhr reccomendations.
I got a redline set for 150$ (incl shipping) that includes 20mm 15mm 9mm and the 6mm to replace the Plossl that came with my 150p. Even using the 6mm with a 2x barlow the eye relief is decent enough and I wear glasses.
The eyepieces are decent quality (amazing quality for the price) and offer good views.
The 15mm is pretty pointless and if you just want the 6mm it's a brainless pick for the price. Definitely ditch the Plossl designs the 4mm Plossl that came with the 150p is almost impossible to use I have to press the glasses against the eypice and even finding the hole in the dark can be annoying.
You can get a whole set for $116
I got them on Amazon at the link below, but there may be other places to get them as well.
SVBONY Telescope Eyepiece FMC Broadband Green Film Eyepiece 1.25 68 Degree Ultra Wide Angle Eyepiece Set for Astronomical Telescope(6mm 9mm 15mm 20mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C6LRCNN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6asADbZ4W1ERG
No problem, glad to help!
I personally started with these.
They are the "red lines", which is the same as the gold lines but a slightly wider fov. It's usually not recommended to get the whole set, but to get whichever size you need or want to replace a crappy one you have with. If you look at the drop down menu under the picture, you can choose individual ones. Gold lines and red lines aren't a brand, there's a couple different actual brands that have the gold/red ring around them that are basically the same eyepieces, just rebranded.
>Is there a point at which the price isn’t worth the “improvement” in quality?
I'm sure you eventually get diminishing returns, but I don't know when. Tele Vue and Explore Scientific are usually people's go-to for high quality eyepieces, though. They are pricey, but very worth it from everything I've read.
If you want to get a good, high quality eyepiece, you can make a new post with your budget and what you're trying to look at (lower power for nebulas, or high power for planets) and I'm sure you'll get some good recommendations. If you want to stay on the more budget side, go with one of the gold lines/red lines.
Personally I think a 6" (150mm) F/8 dob is the best choice for a beginner. The long focal ratio is tolerant of collimation errors, and is forgiving on cheap eyepieces, meaning the full "gold line" or "red line" kit will work nicely in it.
Assuming you have reasonably dark skies, you will EASILY see the Orion Nebula and the Andromeda Galaxy.
I had that exact same telescope before I upgraded to a 10 inch, it's fantastic.
If you look at my posts you can see some pictures that I've taken with it.
Listen to schorhr, he knows what he's talking about. Get a decent eyepiece, it's the most important part of viewing, the only recommendation I'd make is getting the redline series for a couple dollars more. Optics are practically identical to the gold but the field of view difference is very noticeable in my opinion.
SVBONY Telescope Eyepiece FMC Broadband Green Film Eyepiece 1.25 68 Degree Ultra Wide Angle Eyepiece Set for Astronomical Telescope(6mm 9mm 15mm 20mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C6LRCNN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Gc6CDb9R9BD18
You're welcome.
Amazon link to those eyepieces I mentioned, they're also on eBay and others for usually less money. These transfer well to most other telescopes too.
https://www.amazon.com/SVBONY-Telescopes-Eyepieces-Eyepiece-Degree/dp/B07C6LRCNN?th=1
All of the telescopes from Amazon are overpriced. Instead buy from a reputable retailers like Agena, Highpoint Scientific, B&H, etc…
The best telescope related deal I have seen is this set of eyepieces
Best bang for the buck new scope under $300. If you buy used, you can probably get a full sized 6” or 8” dob for $300.
This isn't a complete set per se.
It is based on one set though, the red lines: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C6LRCNN/
OP then added an additional eyepiece - the 32mm Orion Q70: https://www.telescope.com/Orion/32mm-Orion-Q70-Wide-Field-Telescope-Eyepiece/rc/2160/p/8828.uts?keyword=Orion%20Q70
And a couple of filters.
Depending on your scope, this selection may or may not be appropriate.
> .1) What is max visible magnitude for 8" dob in Bortle 8 (during average atmospheric conditions)?
This is a bit complicated. There are two magnitudes to be concerned with - integrated magnitude of stellar objects, and surface brightness magnitude of extended objects. An extended object is anything other than a star, basically.
For stellar magnitude, assuming you have good atmospheric conditions (stable, transparent air), an 8" dob should be able to see down to about magnitude 13.5-14 or so. This is highly dependent on experience, and what magnification you're using. The more magnification, the darker the sky glow gets, and the easier it is to pick out faint stars. But seeing has to be stable enough not to blur the star out of existence.
Everything that isn't an optical point source has a surface brightness, including the background sky glow. The surface brightness of an object is the best determination if you are going to be able to see it in light pollution, as the contrast between the object and sky glow is what matters. Bortle class 7/8 skies have a surface brightness reading of about 18 magnitudes per square arc second. A very rough rule of thumb is that threshold objects can be up to 5 MPSAS dimmer before contrast is too low to detect. In practice, it might be more like 3 or 4 MPSAS dimmer.
If you use https://telescopius.com, it lists the surface brightness of many extended objects (galaxies, nebulae etc). The listing is often in magnitudes per square arc minute (MPSAM). To convert to square arc second, just add 8.9 to the value listed on Telescopius.
Anything that is 22 MPSAS and brighter should be visible in those skies, but it will depend on the nature of the object. Some objects are very "fuzzy" - they have no defined edge, and that can make them hard to detect if they are right at the threshold. Also note that many objects don't have a uniform surface brightness. Many galaxies have bright cores and faint outer-extents. So it might be possible to detect the core, but nothing else about the galaxy. At which point it would just look like a slightly bloated, fuzzy star.
Further, not all those surface brightness readings are necessarily very accurate. They depend on accurate measurements of the object's dimensions, which can vary depending on source.
So take the MPSAS reading of those objects with a grain of salt. They are a guide, not necessarily an absolute truth about what will be visible and what won't be.
> 2)Is it possible to see a brighter comets (those who are currently most brightest in sky) in my area with that pollution?
Yes, when very bright comets come around, they should be visible. Most bright comets are bright when they are close to the sun, which means they are often low in the sky at twilight, which is quite heavy in terms of light pollution. You will likely NOT be seeing comets that are far from the sun, visible in the middle of the night. Those are often very faint comets.
> 3)Do I need to buy any other lenses/objectives for observing planets and Moon or will default ones that comes with telescope be good for details on Jupiter like big red storm spot?
Depends on which 8" dob. Some only come with one low power eyepiece, others come with medium power eyepieces. The Apertura AD8/Zhumell Z8 comes with a 9mm Plossl that gives 133x. This is sufficient for observing the planets, though the eyepiece is a bit challenging to look through and has a narrow field of view. The Sky-Watcher 8" Classic also comes with a 10mm Plossl for 120x, which is also sufficient for low-end planetary observing.
An 8" dob's planetary magnification range falls between 120x and 300x. Higher if the scope has particularly good optics and the atmosphere supports it, but beyond 300x, the view starts getting dim enough that you lose contrast due to the diminishing light entering your eye. Things can be counter-productive beyond 300x in an 8" scope.
It's worth having 3-4 eyepiece focal lengths in roughly 50x magnification increments to let you tailor the magnification to the atmospheric conditions.
A series of 8mm (150x), 6mm (200x), 5mm (240x), and 4mm (300x) is good.
Same with 9mm, 6mm, 5mm, and 4mm.
If your scope came with a 10mm, you might consider something like 10mm (120x), 7mm (171x), 5mm (240x), and 4mm (300x) for spacing. The jump from 7mm to 5mm is a bit bigger than it should be, but sometimes you have to be pragmatic about what eyepiece focal lengths are available. Alternatively, you could upgrade the 10mm for a 9mm or 8mm wide angle.
Some decent budget/mid-grade eyepiece lines are:
Hello my peoples.
I have a Skywatcher Heritage 130P and would like to know if these eyepieces are part of the "goldline" or "redline" series that everyone says work for the budget minded? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C6LRCNN/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?psc=1
Are the SVOBNY goldlines a superior alternative to these one?
This is what I recommend -
SVBONY Telescope Eyepiece FMC Broadband Green Film Eyepiece 1.25 68 Degree Ultra Wide Angle Eyepiece Set for Astronomical Telescope(6mm 9mm 15mm 20mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C6LRCNN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5Ww4DbXWWSWAB
A Barlow lense is basically an extra zoom. But it's always recommended to get better eyepieces before you get a Barlow.
SVBONY Telescope Eyepiece FMC Broadband Green Film Eyepiece 1.25 68 Degree Ultra Wide Angle Eyepiece Set for Astronomical Telescope(6mm 9mm 15mm 20mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C6LRCNN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Gc6CDb9R9BD18
Well if you got the whole kit of 4 eyepieces for $99, you're spending ebay prices per eyepiece (just $25 per eyepiece), without the wait.
I think the Amazon eyepieces are a bit overpriced, but still very good values as far as eyepieces go.
There's also this kit of the Gold Line eyepieces (which again, are basically identical to the Red Lines) for just $82. That's an astonishingly good deal IMO.