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Syba external USB Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows, Mac, Linux Extra Audio Source with 3.5mm Audio Mic Jack C-Media Chipset?
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Hi! The Raspberry PI only has audio output. You need an external sound device to get the audio signal into the PI. It's likely that any cheeeep-o Amazon USB audio device will be discovered by the Linux kernel, no drivers needed. I have one of these ripped apart and soldered directly to an HT for packet work, and it does fine under Debian.
edit - wrong link*
I plugged a generic USB sound card -- like the Syba model here -- into the back of my older model Shield and was pleased to see that the menu clicks were coming out of the headphones, now!
There didn't seem to be any notifications, and I'm not sure you could change the routing back without unplugging it, but... at the very least, a generic USB to 3.5mm adapter appears to work.
Any cheap one on Amazon will do. One of my friends got this one and uses it with the ModMic to sound much better than even plugging it into the Xonar. You can keep using the Xonar for audio but use this adapter just for the mic.
Syba SD-CM-UAUD USB Stereo Audio Adapter, C-Media Chipset, RoHS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_krMZvbKF3V6PX
I don't think that this mic splitter cable incompatibility is a problem that can be solved with yet another analog wired headset. What I suggest is keeping Razer Kraken, and adding a cheap USB audio card, e.g. this one (untested): https://www.amazon.com/Syba-external-Adapter-Windows-C-Media/dp/B001MSS6CS
So there are actually a couple of issues that can present themselves in these situations. We can’t know which one it is for sure without breaking down the problem though.
Grounding - honestly, this one is thrown around a lot so I guess I will suggest it as well. However, you buy off the shelf parts. I doubt it’s grounding no more than it is for anyone else. Besides, the motherboard is grounded to the case by each and every one of its mounting screws. The power supply is as well. It’s UL listed, ain’t it? However, I used to have such dirty line voltage into the house that I could hear my PSU working over time on the noise and PF correction.
Motherboard - my motherboard has terrible shielding when it comes to noise immunity. Not only that but I had to routinely digital-boost the microphone and still have it be quiet while unfortunately boosting the noise. The issue? A gain setting resistor for the input amp for the microphone was too small, I believe. I never resolved the root cause because I didn’t want to desolder the wrong part. Instead, I bought a USB adapter for the front pc port. Audio was fixed and noise floor dropped considerably. Two birds with one stone. USB adapter
Surge protector with lead battery - step sine equivalent of the line voltage can do terrible things to a PSU / MB combo. I have one, but I checked whether it was clean enough first. Reviews save us time!
well the e10k is both a DAC and AMP. what about the mic issue? would i have to get one of these
So I'm curious why I need an amp at all. I plugged in a regular pair of earbuds that I use with my phone, and if anything, the sound was *louder* than I expected. Is it harder to get the headsets to produce sound than the earbuds? Keep in mind I have zero technical knowledge as far as these things go.
Also, is this the Syba product you're recommending?
Thanks, by the way, for your advice.
As long as it is goes from an audio jack to USB, like this then you should be able to plug and play. If it still doesn't work, go to the manufacturers website and see if there are drivers you need to download.
It was indeed :) The white noice dissappeared and it no longer sounds as if I am 10 feet away from the mic. I did some research and found one with a good "chipset" from a reputable seller that actually shipped to my location. Thank you for helping :)
Have this & used it with my NW-700 and tried it on my brothers NW-800 (legit the same microphone as yours lmao) & I use it with my mod mic and it provides the right amount of Voltage without any issues.
Syba SD-CM-UAUD USB Stereo Audio Adapter, C-Media Chipset, RoHS https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7E0PAbFNMRSCN
This is all you need. I use it with my modmic 5 and headphones. It’s also the only USB adapter that doesn’t produce any buzzing with the modmic that I’ve tried.
I have the same headphones. They're awesome. But a bit soft though. I use this USB audio adapter to amplify it a bit:
SYBA external USB Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows, Mac, Linux Extra Audio Source with Microphone SD-CM-UAUD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MSS6CS/
It's hella cheap.
I figured it out! Apparently my built in sound card is really bad. I had one of these lying around when I use it the $30 speakers I was about to return became loud as fuck! Thanks for the help anyways guys!
I figured it out! Apparently my built in sound card is really bad. I had one of these lying around when I use it the $30 speakers I was about to return became loud as fuck! Thanks for the help anyways guys!
I figured it out! Apparently my built in sound card is really bad. I had one of these lying around when I use it the $30 speakers I was about to return became loud as fuck! Thanks for the help anyways guys!
I know my son had trouble like this and it was picking the wrong one as the main. He had realtek audio also I am thinking it might be in sound options or device manager. He had to set the port he was using every time he used.
I got tired of setting it for him so I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
When plugged into the usb it becomes the default for headphones and mic. When unplugged it goes back to your other defaults. After that I had to buy three more for the other kids. The Daughter could not get her mic on the laptop to work, so this worked there also. The other two just like it because it was easy.
Need a bit of tech support.
I have Sennheiser HD 598s, which sound amazing and I love them. But they are WAY WAY too loud. I have my pc volume mixer set to 1%, and then still watch videos and play games at like 10% internal volume.
As far as the rest of my setup goes, I'm using this USB sound card https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
with no DAC or anything.
Is it possible I have a really warped idea of how loud hearing damage occurs at, and I should just crank everything up? I don't really want anything to be louder though.
I've spoken to some friends who have already really pushed me to buy a DAC but I'd love your opinions first. And if I get a DAC, would I have to return to using my on board sound card instead of the USB card?
Need a bit of tech support.
I have Sennheiser HD 598s, which sound amazing and I love them. But they are WAY WAY too loud. I have my pc volume mixer set to 1%, and then still watch videos and play games at like 10% internal volume.
As far as the rest of my setup goes, I'm using this USB sound card https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 with no DAC or anything.
Is it possible I have a really warped idea of how loud hearing damage occurs at, and I should just crank everything up? I don't really want anything to be louder though.
I've spoken to some friends who have already really pushed me to buy a DAC but I'd love your opinions first. And if I get a DAC, would I have to return to using my on board sound card instead of the USB card?
Wow, you literally have the exact same issue as me, word for word. I even have the same mic.
By any chance, is this your USB adapter? It's the one I use (Also due to static from on-board audio)
That's incredibly strange though, this never used to happen.
How's the sound reception of the SYBA external USB Stereo Sound Adapter?
It's a cheap sound card so I'm wondering if it can somehow worsen the audio it outputs. Are there any better options?
I'm using exactly this.
Thanks for the explanation!
I will probably invest in phantom power very soon, hopefully with better luck in Skype.
Ah, I see. My PC most certainly has a noisy audio output. I will look into that DAC/Amp combo you recommended above. However, do you think a combination of the HD 598 and a Syba external USB would be a decent alternative to knock out that noisy audio output? Would that combination cause my audio to suffer?
I recently bought 32 ohm DT990's and really like them (so comfortable) but the motherboard on my desktop is too cheap and awful to really drive them well (even at one 32 ohm). Right now, I'm using a cheap usb adapter to drive the headphones and my mic (something like this) and I feel like that's preventing me from getting the most of my headphones.
I'm looking at getting a Fiio E10k, but would like to know if this is a worthwhile purchase, or if there are any other products I should look at for combined Dac/Amp under $100?
Gigabyte GA-H97-D3H. It's 1150 from everything I've read. I tried a completely fresh install and applying this fix before even applying the initial multibeast.
Even on a fresh install I extracted the default kext from the installer I used to build my media and also made sure there were no extra kexts in any of the relevant folders (I wanted to be super sure everything was clean). In other words, I had a fresh install but also made extra sure everything was clean by going through the typical steps to clean everything out.
Anyway, at the end of the day I decided it wasn't a battle worth fighting because my local computer shop had a USB > 3.5 adapter (this one) for under $10. For the price it seemed like it made more sense to just grab that and avoid hours of messing around with my system. It also gives me piece of mind because my system is running at the bare minimum in terms of injecting and patching kexts, so I don't have that house of cards feeling that you sometimes get when you've spent days getting certain functions to work and are afraid that everything is going to break the next time you look at your computer the wrong way.
You need this:
I use that one and it works great. Then just use the inputs on that for the sound and mic. You might need a mixer or should have one even a cheap one for mixing volumes etc... or conversely you could set up some kind of mixing software on the PC.
I was under the impression the one with the HC2 the USB sound card is not compatible with the PS4. Not for sure though. Might want to give it a try since you have it.
If your hooking the Elgato directly to the PS4 with HDMI audio make sure that the settings in OBS have use device audio checked or on in the software.
Bottom line make your life easier with a cheap mixer to control, mix and make your stream sound better.
I use a PS4 everyday with this setup and it allows ultimate control and sound through my DSS USB device also plugged into the PS4 come by and discuss it TonyLemont on Twitch.
Peace.
You can extend your audio cable by connecting a USB to AUDIO+MIC cable, don't know the exact name (something like this https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS ). I have one of these from logitech which works fine for me.
You could get a dac, its an easy fix.
(maybe not this one its a bit too cheap but you get the idea, you may also need 3rd party software for volume control)
Easily the HyperX Clouds. They are the Takstar Pro 80s/Gemini DJ HSR-1000, which are good entry level headphones, in disguise.
If you want more open headphones, go the Phillips SHP9500 + V Moda Boom Pro. It's a little above your budget, but this combo is godly for budget headsets. I have this to go along with it if you need to use a USB connection.
I bought one of these SYBA USB sound cards when my motherboard audio failed. It's really cheap and it works. I'm not sure if it's "good", but it sounds good enough for me and it worked out of the box. Since you say you don't need 5.1 or fancy mixing stuff, this might be good enough for you too.
I don't think you can get a Headset and a mic at that price point.
So you are good with the Logitech G230, and get This soundcard for it.
Ohh okay. A lot of the USB soundcards you see on Amazon are just for computers and might not work with the vr headset, but they are all only a few dollars and it would be pretty cheap to test. This one looks like the best, and some people report it working with the ps4, which is a good sign that it may work with the vr headset.
Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MSS6CS/
A mixamp or DAC will easily convert any USB source to stereo for your headphones, but they are usually bigger than the usb soundcards.
Can you get audio from the same source as the vr, or do you need it to come from the vr headset?
Thanks! And I was wondering if the voice quality is poor if you plug it directly into the microphone port rather than a external USB?
Yo uso una que me compre en amazon para una laptop que herede y nunca le funciono el conector. No se que pretensiones tenes, pero para escuchar musica y videos tranqui mientras laburo va perfecto.
Windows upgrades can often cause driver issues, I'd try doing a clean install to see if that fixes it, but it's pretty inconvenient.
Have you checked the headset on another machine to make sure it's not just a coincidence?
If you're just using it for game voip, a cheapo USB sound card like this would be fine, just keep using your mobo audio for the speakers http://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458987901&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+microphone+card
I actually have the same headset as you, and I use this to use it. http://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=pd_sim_147_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41AM133RwuL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=09V3K6CHVXX7QZVDQXF9
I have all the drivers already installed for motherboard. I know USB dongle mics give you better sound quality, if I bought something like this do you think the sound would stop? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS?keywords=usb%20mic%20dongle&qid=1454804361&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
I have about a week to return them if I choose, I'm debating getting a refund for these and spending the extra $20 for the G430's.
Easiest way is to buy a usb adapter. That way you wouldn't have to mess with drivers. Its what I used and its just plug and play.
Edit: link to usb adapter that I use http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1452107278&sr=1-5&keywords=usb+sound
since ps4 supports audio through usb, you could connect the mixamp via toslink, then put one of these into the usb ports: http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS and use that to connect your mic. That way you wouldn't be using the adapter you just posted above. If that still doesn't help, then please reconsider reformatting your question so it's easier to help.
Thanks for the reply - before I went any deeper, I have an external USB sound card:
Which I plugged into the PC, and it didn't register that either? Is there something going on with AppleHDA maybe?
The realtek works without issue in Windows, so I know it's working.
Does the background noise sound like static noise? I had this same issue and I believe it was due to some electrical feedback (not entirely sure about the cause of it) from my motherboard when my mic was plugged in directly.
I looked around for solutions and some people recommended a sound card. But there is one cheap solution I found which has helped me. I bought this device, which is sort of USB sound adapter.
Plugging my mic into that helped get rid of the static noise. Let me know if you have any other questions, I will try to help.
Yes to both questions. Assuming the connections on the headset aren't usb all you would needed to connect to ps4 is this: http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS
Let me know which mixamp you're considering and I can tell you if there is any special considerations.
All USB devices work off core audio so you can just plug it in and go, no kexts required.
Are the speakers plugged into the front pannel? If they are then they might just be picking up noise from the fans. Also if the speakers are plugged right into the motherboard then using one of these http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1445148983&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+sound+card could help
Unless you're highly technical (you'll have to disassemble the laptop, then probably de-solder the existing connector and install a new one) you don't fix it.
Get a USB headphone adapter. Not the most elegant solution, but it is the fastest, easiest and cheapest.
tried what? the selecting the default output? I'm going to guess it's something wrong with the digital to analog converter on your motherboard, which can't be repaired, so you'd probably be looking at a new motherboard.
But again this is a diagnosis provided over the internet, so take it with a grain of salt :)
EDIT: You can try a USB headset, or a USB sound card to at least maybe get you sound to your headset.
If the Realtek's OUTPUT sounds good enough, i.e. there's no hiss or hum or EMI, and it gets loud enough, it's fine.
However, I've yet to see a good (read: nearly noiseless) microphone INPUT on an onboard Realtek sound system. That's when you just pony up the $8 for one of these and you're set.
Woah woah woah. Some people are recommending way overkill stuff. If you want the mic to sound good, here is your less than 10 dollar solution. Just keep the headphones plugged into rear of the mobo and plug the mic into this. Low noise, cheap price, easy fix. I know a number of people who use exactly this and a ModMic. Works very well. There's no need to shell out on an expensive sound card if the only thing you are looking to do is to drastically improve mic quality. It's an old trick to use a separate USB adapter just for the mic to be much higher quality, and it works great.
Syba SD-CM-UAUD USB Stereo Audio Adapter, C-Media Chipset, RoHS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_8VZ8vbTDYNWGB
I'm not a big audiophile, but deep bass is nice to have, but, the price is pretty nice, and if it has a quality mic, that's a bonus. Would it be a good idea to buy a 3.5mm to USB such as http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=pd_bxgy_147_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=176QFBM23KKAV6AFH4BD to get a better audio quality? My sound card isn't the greatest, it's the integrated one that's in my mobo.
Both of those headsets plugin via USB, not aux.
You can also get a USB soundcard and use whatever headphones you want, they are pretty cheap: http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/
The G430 comes with a very similar adapter (but designed for those headphones with surround sound), the G930 is completely wireless. I've heard nothing but bad reviews of the G930 so I'd go with the G430 if those are your only choices. If you really want a wireless one look at Turtle Beach, their wireless stuff works much better IMHO.
you need two sound cards in your PC.
you can get a USB one pretty cheap
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS
set the headphones to the default sound card and set your audio player to the secondary sound card with the speakers on it.
> constant static sound
Completely known issue. From what I've found, it is 100% to do with realtek audio chipsets.
>so I bought a USB sound card
I did the same thing and mine honestly works flawlessly. Seriously, I at least get asked twice a week on CSGO what mic I have because it sounds so good and people tell me I should do casting (but I'm a scrub).
this is the USB adapter I went with. I wish I would have spent a bit more on it, but it works and is quite loud (usually have my mic ~70%).
This one I tested already. Just don't plug in any headphones to it, only the mic, and there will be minimal mic noise.
Syba SD-CM-UAUD USB Stereo Audio Adapter, C-Media Chipset, RoHS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_CKdQvbRR8CB00
I had this happen on an old PC, I shorted the USB ports when I was trying to recharge my e-cig (this was when e-cigs first came out). Just buy a cheap sound card like everyone else suggested or maybe one of these USB sounds things.
edit: Forgot to mention that the USB ports took the audio jacks with them since they were right next to each other, that's what I'd figured.
Did you do a complete restart? If on a laptop, maybe take the battery out for a full restart. If all else fails, you can buy a cheap USB adapter like this if you need a mic input. Also being Logitech, if it's your cam and warranty is valid, they're pretty good with issuing RMAs.
I have the headphones connected to this little thing right here for now at least. They actually sound pretty good, but they're not as loud as I would probably need them for when I play counter strike. I should be fine with the E10K and nothing else right?
I would probably end up getting something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425332070&sr=8-1&keywords=sound+card+usb
Not much to do as far as troubleshooting sound is concerned.
Somthing like this should help then, I used one for my PS3 back in the day with my turtle beaches.
Nah I figured out what's wrong. I need to get myself one of these for my Macbook. Apparently the Line In doesn't recognize the type of jack my headset uses.
Hmm, I was afraid that might be the case. I'm hesitant to suggest that it may be a hardware bug with the mobo itself, but I think that may be what this is. I've been reading through some forum threads on audio issues with this mobo, and I've found a handful where the board just had dead audio outputs.
You have a couple of options.
You could RMA the board and wait weeks for a replacement (and hope that one works as it should)
Order a basic PCI soundcard as you originally mentioned
Use USB headphones and speakers exclusively
Personally, I would go the soundcard route. I've never had an enjoyable RMA experience, and I would cry if I could only use USB audio devices. On the upside, if you wanted to spend a bit extra for a soundcard with some features, you'll get much better audio quality than you would normally.
In the interim, you could pick up one of these. It'll get the job done, but you may want to upgrade to a PCI soundcard in the future anyway.
The built in audio jack sounds pretty bad. A USB audio interface makes a big difference if you're hooking the pi up to a stereo. This one worked nicely http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you're hooking it up to a tv then you can just run audio over hdmi.
If they work on the front and not the back, I'm 99% sure you have a bad headphone jack, and a driver install won't do anything. I would either live with the headphones plugged into the front, or buy something like this.
Don't forget you can do audio via USB. I had a Mac Mini whose audio outs were busted. A $10.00 USB dongle and it was as good as new.
Syba SD-CM-UAUD USB Stereo Audio Adapter, C-Media Chipset, RoHS
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You shouldn't have a problem getting the game audio but if you want to use the mic you need to buy a usb audio adapter. I use a turtlebeach headset thats designed for the xbox 360 and i bought one for $8.
Amazon link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01
the raspberry pi can be used for many audio applications, if you only pair it with a usb audio interface. for example, this one was only $8 and allowed me to get much improved audio quality out of the pi.
you could buy a usb audio driver to get a "second" audio card. I bought this: http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=pd_cp_e_1 and I would recommend it. I use it for djing sometimes. It works with macs (mine is a mac)
Buy a $6 USB sound card from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS
vgsmart is a smart dude. We really appreciate when people can help out like this.
The Syba CM-UAUD will do the trick without a doubt. It's going for $6 bucks on amazon at the moment
https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS
Both of you feel free to join our discord, We'd love to have you guys
https://discordapp.com/invite/ZqDGNFg
-Antlion Intern
Can you clear up some assumptions? Since you called them 'TVs' I assume you're using HDMI. Where's the audio coming out of? Is there a separate sound card, or is that getting automatically piped into the HDMI, too?
I think splitting the HDMI audio into TWO separate channels is easy enough, if your TVs have a 'balance' control. Just set one all the way left and the other all the way right. :D But I don't know how you could isolate the 3rd and 4th channels. Maybe set the third to CENTER and EXTERNAL L&R and just don't plug in a L and R.
That said, I don't think basic HDMI technically supports more than 2 channel of audio, and all the other channels are encoded somehow...?
So I am assuming a single sound card with 5.1 outputs or something, and you're just using FL, FR, and CENTER channels. Will your software support three sound cards?? USB sound cards like these are super-cheap, but I don't think I've tried more than one at a time on the same PC.
If you have separate audio signals, you could patch together a bunch of these to insert the correct sound card audio channel into each of three HDMI streams.
Lots of options, but they're all sort of janky and it all depends on your requirements.
A generic one on Amazon should suffice for your needs, for example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_0PFStb0VSNTA9TPM. I can't really recommend one because I've never owned or used one of these.
Laptops with a headset combo jack will usually have a pop-up dialogue whenever you plug something in. If there's an option to select Microphone or Line In then I think you can just plug a 3.5mm audio cable into your PX-160's headphone jack and laptop combo jack and you'd be good to go. (or use the line outs on the PX-160 with a dual 1/4" to 1/8" instrument cable, whatever you want)
If it doesn't give you those options then you'll need an external audio interface that connects to your PC if you wanna record directly onto it. A cheap option would be using a USB sound card like this one. A lot of gaming audio headsets will come with a similar USB sound card that you could possibly use if you happen to have one. Plug that into your PC and then use a 3.5mm audio cable to plug into the mic jack on the USB sound card and the other end into the PX-160 headphone jack.
You could also record directly onto the PX-160 and then transfer the recording file from it to your PC using a USB type A to USB type B cable (aka printer cable). Here's a video showcasing the process for that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pH3T-FIDX5g It seems like a more tedious process though
Thanks for the help! If you've got a minute what do you think about any of these: ONE TWO THREE FOUR
Unfortunately since I only have the budget from the amazon return on store credit I am quite constrained, otherwise I'd have to deposit some money into it somehow and I guess the minimum might be more than the 5-7 extra euros I'd need to get the more expensive one of those. I think the Ugreen and the SoundBlaste might have dedicated DACs while the other ones are just interfaces(?). And thanks again for your time!
I don't know about that one, I was thinking of something like this : https://www.amazon.com/Syba-external-Adapter-Windows-C-Media/dp/B001MSS6CS/ with a clear audio in
I had the same problem. you can use this https://antlionaudio.com/collections/accessories/products/antlion-audio-usb-sound-card or one of these https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS/
I use a SoundblasterX G5 with my modmic and it works great. There is a newer SoundblasterX G6 that should work too. I got the G5 to amp my 250 ohm beyerdynamic dt880s.
Hey hey, Here are a few links that could solve your issue
- https://antlionaudio.com/blogs/news/pro-tips-get-the-most-out-of-your-modmic-part-1
- https://antlionaudio.com/blogs/faqs/my-voice-sounds-way-too-quiet
It might be as easy as picking up a $6 USB audio card like this
https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS
If you ever have any issues always feel free to hit us up on the discord! Myself and the other staff are usually lurking around
https://discordapp.com/invite/ZqDGNFg
-Antlion Intern
Here to help! Check out this link here, It's helped a lot of people with this exact problem.
https://antlionaudio.com/blogs/faqs/my-voice-sounds-way-too-quiet
Also check out the USB sound card we recommend, it should really help with that white noise problem plus you can turn any USB port into a jack.
https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS
If that doesn't work things out, feel free to hop on our discord we are always down to fix some issues!
https://discordapp.com/invite/ZqDGNFg
-Antlion Intern
Mate, I have a feeling the issues you had with your mod mic weren't anything related to what you think it is. Modmic needs 5v to operate. Their own xlr converter, converts from 48v to 5. Any budget audio can deliver that cheaply if they choose to.
You're making people waste money when you tell them to spend 70 on a mic that doesn't need it. Creative also doesn't have the best mic ports and mostly dedicate to the headphone power, the mics are an afterthought for some of their product line.
Yes the mod mic may require additional power for some, no it is not nearly as much as you think it is. You're just buying or linking cards with poor mic inputs even if they are expensive.
Wanted to edit this with an example https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/884072-modmic-5-only-hearable-with-amplification/?tab=comments#comment-10966624 and their own staff suggesting one of the budget ones I use https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/884072-modmic-5-only-hearable-with-amplification/?tab=comments#comment-10979249 The SYBA is about $6 https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS
> Syba usb soundcard
This thing? https://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS
I've been using this: SYBA external USB Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows, Mac, Linux Extra Audio Source with Microphone SD-CM-UAUD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_joFqAbRA5GRE8 for awhile now and it seems to work fine.
Any of those microphones are good, I have the Zalman ZM-Mic1 and the quality is good enough for online chatting or even commentary. The issue is quality of the components. The clip isn't great and the wire is weak. Just from wear and tear of sitting on my desk, the shielding of the cable has broken and the wires are exposed.
/u/gibbking brought up that he was kind of quite with the Sony ECMCS3, and that's going to be the story with any mic you plug into your motherboard. You're best off using a USB soundcard, specifically this Syba sound card and you'll sound nice and clear and loud.
Podcastage is a great YouTube channel for information on this stuff. He has videos on the microphones you've mentioned, as well as various USB sound cards and how they sound with cheap microphones.
You need another soundcard for that.
Any of the numerous cheap USB audio dongles on Amazon will work just fine. I use this one with one of these USB extension pigtails to keep it from blocking the adjacent USB ports. Works just fine on a Pi or anything else I've plugged it into.
Yeah, that'd work. Or you could get something like this too.
Podcastage said it was decent, don't forget you're gonna need a USB adapter like this one to get it power if you don't already have a mixer or phantom power device setup.
These are cheaper and work just as well.
A cheap USB soundcard (I use this) fixed those issues for me.
Do NOT get an internal sound card. First, unless you have a really old computer, the onboard sound is the same as most sound cards out there, unless you want to spend $300+. Second, you said you needed something with a mic input, if you have even a basic computer, it would have the standard 3.5mm jack or USB that mics use and you don't need a special sound card just for a mic input. If you really don't have a 3.5mm jack, you can get this adapter or if you need a splitter, get this. Third, unless you have very nice speakers or headphones, you won't be able to hear a difference anyway. Finally, if you have a decent PC, most internal sound cards will get interference and you will hear static. I was foolish and didn't listen to other posters and bought 2 of the most expensive internal sound cards (Sound Blaster ZxR and Asus Strix RAID DLX) and both had static so I had to return them. I ended up finally listening to other posters and got an external DAC and have enjoyed amazing audio ever since. If you really want to improve your sound, get a DAC or DAC/headphone amp combo, like the Schiit Fulla or FiiO E10K. If you don't use headphones or your headphones already have a built-in DAC (example: Sennheiser PC 363D / on Amazon), then you might want to get just a DAC, like the Schiit Modi 2 or Modi 2 Uber (Modi 2 on Amazon or Modi 2 Uber on Amazon). You don't have to listen to me but at least check out /r/budgetaudiophile /r/audiophile and /r/audio
Everyone runs the Behringer DAC with these Nexus 7 setups, but to be honest, it seems like overkill, and it ain't small. Is there a reason you chose it over a small option like this? I can buy that the audio quality on the Behringer is likely higher. It just seems like an ungainly device when size does matter.
The suggestions others have made are probably cheaper than converting a headphone-sized audio cable to USB. Nevertheless, if you need some kind of USB adapter because you don't have a mic jack in your PC, try this:
or maybe this:
EDIT: For my first suggestion, you'll need to also buy two 3.5mm cables, such as this one:
You may need to reboot after plugging the dac in. I only tried the analog audio out on the pcm2704. They are stereo only.
Links SYBA external USB Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows, Mac, Linux Extra Audio Source with Microphone SD-CM-UAUD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yrkoxbR8N0JMM
Phantom YoYo PCM2704 USB Fiber Optic Coaxial Analog Output USB Sound Card Decoding Plate DAC USB Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5NQ12O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KskoxbJFVQ3ER
Griffin Technology iMic - The original USB Stereo Input and Output Audio Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y5D776/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wtkoxbHBWFXCF
Edit: added links, formatting
then in that case, all you need is a dac.
Here's a $6 one, Here's a $24 one and there's more in the saidebar or just search amazon for "USB dac"
I have used both Volumio and Rune Audio and they both offer web based control over a headless pi audio server. You can stream internet radio, play audio from archive.org, and play music from an attached storage device with music loaded onto it (or a network music share device).
They are both based on the same open source project and are pretty similar functionally and aesthetically, they might be perfect for what you want because anybody on the network can access the web control panel and play/que music.
You will also probably want to look into a USB DAC or a add-on board like hi-fi berry because the Pis audio out is pretty underwelming in terms of sound quality. I used this USB audio card because it was plug and play and cheap but sounds good through an amplified stereo.
They do, you could try something like this: http://www.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS
I had similar issues with realtek drivers. I ended up buying a cheap usb card off Amazon just for the mic and haven't had any problems since.
this is the dongle that I just bought I don't know if it's OTG or not. If not I'll pick up something else.
I'm always quick here to suggest the Kingston HyperX Cloud Gaming headset. I've gone through quite a few headsets and I came across these a year ago and they work beautifully. They are supper sturdy, super comfortable, and are noise canceling, and of course have excellent sound quality. They run right at $70 on Amazon and that's a great deal for this headset. I paid $100 for a set of plastic turtle beaches that broke in 6 months.
Also, I honestly can't remember if they are usb, I know they have stereo and mic connectors for sure but if you give me a few minutes I'll go check my pair that's plugged in. However, you should invest in a USB adapter for audio and mic. I'll link both items below from Amazon.
Syba SD-CM-UAUD USB Stereo Audio Adapter, C-Media Chipset, RoHS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_HSYEwbN6J6C2C
HyperX Cloud Gaming Headset - Black (KHX-H3CL/WR) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJNQG98/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_3QYEwbBZX6WTM
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11R3I
not that clunky i think, it's what i'm using
My workflow using an electronic keyboard: 1. Start the record function on my piano.
Start recording video
Play music
Finish (stop recording keyboard and video)
Now I stitch the two together.
Using an aux cable (with 1/4" adapter" for the piano) I plug the piano into the mic jack of a computer (I use this for a mackbook). This isn't ideal as the audio out of the piano is way too loud for what the mic jack is meant for, so in Audacity you have to set the audio-in volume really low. Better to plug into a line-in jack if available.
In Audacity, I start recording, setting the line-in to whatever jack I plugged the piano into.
Playback recording from piano. I do this instead of playing directly into Audacity because it allows me to adjust the output volume of my piano if it's too quiet/loud.
Export the recording.
In Adobe Premiere, sync the audio recording with the video (replacing the video's audio).
I do all this because I generally find recording through a camera mic to be pretty bad, and I don't feel like buying an expensive mic. Example video here
You may have been better off with something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS
DAC or USB Stereo adapter?
The headphone jack on my pc broke and the mic port has bad audio. Should i just replace it withe this USB Stereo adapter or should i use this opportunity to justify buying this DAC?
using Audio Technica ATH-AD700X (open backs) if it matters.
I've both as well. Well, not the M50x, but the M50, I'd say this. the 598's are great for comfort, and you barely notice you're using them after hours. They are however not built very good. If you sit on them, your F'd. They will shatter like glass, I know from experience after having hd595's which later I had repaired and got an almost new hd598's. These headphones need tender care, but they sound exceptional, you'd benefit quite a lot from a solid amp/dac. Schitt Stack. The ATH-M50(x) I'd say are pretty robust, they take in my opinion roughtly 3-4months to burn-in with regular use. Get yourself the https://www.massdrop.com/buy/ath-m50x-velour-earpads. They help quite a bit in comfort, only good after you wear in the headband, which initially felt like a vice on my head, I put some work into stretching the headband. These are great with the ModMic if you need a headset. They are also very portable, work amazingly well with very basic DAC http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ and it works fantastically well. If you want oomphy bassy sound, these have it, but by no means natural, they are the go-to drivers for task work. If you want to enjoy your listening. I'd say go with a pair of Beyerdynamic DT 770 PRO. Price is not that much more, cheaper than the previoius $300+ of the HD598's, more than the ATH-m50's, and they have very sturdy construction. Granted they don't fold up, but I'm bored of both HD598's & the ATH-m50's.
I had an OG Mixtrack, and used one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1445551127&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+headphone+jack
Is this driver installed, or did windows automatically install it? If it is, and you just want something that works, you might try something like this. If you don't like Amazon, there are some like that on ebay for around $3. Be sure to filter results by US only, or whatever country you're in, so that you won't be waiting more than a week for one from China. Parts from China sometimes take more than a month.
Budget: Less than $100.
What am I Looking for:
I'm trying to think of a way to use an old computer to stream my old collection of ripped music (mix of FLAC and 320kbps MP3 and WMA) that I cant find the discs for anymore to my listening setup. So I currently have two options:
What gear do you own?
Option 1. Old Dell XPS M1530 Laptop with Linux Mint 17. I have a cheap $5 USB sound card from Amazon, kinda like this one.
Option 2. Old desktop with some form of Linux and a SoundBlaster X-Fi Platinum sound card. I do not have a wireless card for it so I would have to buy one that's compatible with Linux. If I go this route will not have a display where I will have this set up, so I will need to remote from my phone or tablet.
My music resides on a few USB hard drives and some would potentially stream from my main Windows desktop.
So the laptop makes sense for convenience and the desktop makes sense for the better quality sound card.
My audio gear is:
- DIY TriTrix MTM towers
- Some meh JBL Subwoofer
- NAD 2200PE Amp
- NAD 1130 Pre-Amp
- NAD CD Player
- Panasonic RD-3500 TT
I guess my main question is should I use either of these computers or wait and buy a new Chromecast Audio and eventually pick up a DAC with optical inputs.
Edit: Creative X-FI sound card, not Live.
Two solutions (or three depending on how you look at it) Buy a USB Speaker System with its own built in Driver. Or get a PCI Sound Card . Or my suggestion, have somebody here on buildapc advice a cheaper upgrade that can handle current gen Windows but keep you under the $450.00 range.
Since there is no audio input you'd need to use a USB adapter, can get them pretty cheap: http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/
Just use it for the recording device input.
There are many cheap USB audio interfaces like this. Look around a bit on Amazon or elsewhere and compare the options.
I mean if you really want to keep it you can buy a 10 dollar USB audio adapter.
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS
Your LAN is in the Realtek 81xx family. Head on over to insanelymac.com and do a kext search in the downloads area, LAN and Wireless subsection. This one might be what you need.
There are also mentions of the VIA audio chip you have around the insanelymac forums. Do a site search there with the exact VIA model to see what success others have had. Alternatively, some folks just grab an inexpensive USB audio adapter.
This one has good reviews on Amazon and it's pretty cheap. http://www.amazon.ca/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1433197451&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+soundcard
Do you think something like this could work?
It may be that your HP Envy does not have a mic-plug, which means you need a USB-Adapter.
So http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=pd_bxgy_147_text_y this.
Undesired Transmitting on Baofeng BF-F8+
Hi All, KM4JQU here, noob Technician. I'm trying to get into data modes, so rigged up my Baofeng per the below photo.
Baofeng w/ USB soundcard adapter
USB device is: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If I turn on the baofeng with the configuration in the above picture (not plugging the USB dongle into a computer), the baofeng starts transmitting wideband noise around whatever frequency its tuned to. I've wired from baofeng to USB dongle: SP-MIC and MIC-SP, but even SP-SP and MIC-MIC makes this noise.
Is my USB dongle faulty? Is there something to program the Baofeng with to allow datamodes (I program it with Chirp)?
Any help greatly appreciated.
I could show what the transmission looks like in a waterfall plot, but don't want to clog up the air with it if I don't need to.
Try a USB audio jack. Plug it into a USB port on the front, or use a USB cable to bring it around front.
OK, so the issue is your computer only has a "headset" port and not a microphone port. You'll need to buy something like this to record audio, then: http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ , but I haven't actually tested these and I'm just basing from what I read online.
If you have a computer with these ports: http://thumb7.shutterstock.com/display_pic_with_logo/11455/11455,1132578178,1/stock-photo-headphone-and-microphone-jack-on-laptop-computer-743382.jpg then you're good to go.
This one is working nicely on my B+: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
its a goner i tried lol, ive been using http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425513842&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+to+microphone works the same i will throw it into the deal as well.
If you can't find any USB speakers that fit your needs you could always use an adapter. http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425746341&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5mm+to+usb
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
I don't recommend USB headsets and explain in another comment here. You might be interested in this little guy to get your USB fix. You can also find these with virtual surround drivers or just use Razer Surround for free with any 3.5mm or USB headphones.
You can do an external DAC or try this
I have some 10 dollar usb audio plug I got off amazon.
Syba SD-CM-UAUD USB Stereo Audio Adapter, C-Media Chipset, RoHS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_eNb8ub0N4NXG5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_eNb8ub0N4NXG5
This is a good solution.
Get one of these.
No problem. I was on my phone earlier so I couldn't grab links, but here is the one I bought that worked pretty well: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yes, give it a go on the Pi. I have been enjoying it for years.
One thing I forgot to mention. The audio output of the Pi sucks. It has a dynamic range of 11 bits. Even these $6 USB sound cards do better. I use the Behringer UFO202 because I have a turntable, but the Behringer UCA202 is great if you have a Digital Input on your HiFi.
There are a ton of USB and I2C DACs that will work well.
Just buy one of these. You're welcome. ;)
Could try this.
I use this. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MSS6CS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It works really well with my headset and microphone.
And if we try something like an usb sound card? (http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1389234717&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+sound+card)
Or maybe the ps4 cam's mic?
I run the server software and multiple instances of softsqueeze player all on the same machine. The softsqueeze instances are launched by batch processes I created that binds them to specific audio devices. These are launched by remote control.
Then, I use each audio device connected to a separate amp. For my three zones I have:
- An A/V receiver connected by HDMI
- AudioSource AMP-100 connected by the mobo's onboard analog audio out.
- Another AudioSource AMP-100 connected by a small USB to headphones adapter.
I made a thread on A/V forums explaining how to setup the software.
Once the players are launched, the music is controlled with any web browser on the network and/or an android/iphone app. The software players can play music independently or by sync'ed.
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS Works with chat but not in game sound, you'd need another adapter for that since the ps4 only has optical.
Just FYI -- I recently addressed this problem for less than $20 by buying the iPad camera kit and this USB sound card.
Thus, a stereo monitor as well as the normal headphone stereo out. Here's a write-up on the setup.
I got this
This appears to be a cheaper, smaller alternative. Guess I'll be getting it eventually.
You certainly can! Order one of these, plug it into your PS4, and plug in your phone using an auxiliary cord. Then download a microphone app of your choosing and you are good to go.
Are you running your modmic directly through your mother board?
I got something like >>THIS<< and it improved sound quality dramaticaly
Something like this is considerably cheaper.
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS
would something like this work to solve my problem? http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-Adapter-C-Media-Chipset/dp/B001MSS6CS
I have one of these so ill try to answer your questions.
1) The USB is to power the amplifier which needs to be plugged in along with the 3.5mm audio/microphone jack. The device you're using needs to have 3.5mm jacks in order for this to work. Alternativley, if you have two USB ports throw use This adapter and you'll get to use USB.
The quality is fair for the price, there's a staticy humming sound that happens when there is no audio playing, which is probably coming from the amplifier. I'm not sure if every headset is meant to do this, but it's not a big deal. The microphone is solid too.
As for durability its pretty damn durable i'd say. The microphone can be moved in any direction and says in place.
I'd recommend it if you need a headset and are on a budget. I have no buyers remorse whatsoever.
My old laptop's old headphone jack was damaged. Windows thought headphones were plugged in so it wouldn't play audio through speakers. My solution: Bought this USB audio adapter and plugged in my headphones.
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