What is Reddit's opinion of
Super Lube-21030 Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease, 3 Oz.?
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This is probably one of my favorite knives in my collection. The fit and finish is incredible. Mine is smooth as butter now that I've used it a lot. I recommend trying some grease on the washers/pivot area. I'm a big fan of this stuff.
The combination ceramic ball detent/lock bar is genius with how well it works.
I've got the entire collection of high end CRK clones and the only slightly disappointing one is the Umnumzaan because it comes on bearings rather than washers. Wish it stayed true to the original and stuck with the washers.
While it's pricey, this knife will easily out live me. It'll be one I hand down to my kids.
BTW, u/zhollis21
It's a really good idea to put a very small dab of a quality lubricant on those bearings when you replace them. Be very careful and ensure you don't get any lubricant on the part of the gear that contacts your filament. I recommend Super Lube.
I fixed the same type of issue just last week. I purchased a small $6 tube of synthetic grease containing PTFE and applied it to the lead screws on my z-axes. Here's the one I purchased off Amazon.
For good measure, be sure to min/max the bed up and down the axis a couple times once it's applied to make sure the threading is properly lubricated and you'll be good to go.
There shouldn't be any issues in mixing the greases.
I would recommend a disassembly and greasing the bearings anyway. Print a nice injector nozzle for the SuperLube tube.
I bought this tube from Amazon. I got what I payed for.
My pleasure! I'm not sure what the rings are made of, it is whatever Hank ships by default. I've been using silicon "Super Lube" on all my threads for quite some time and it seems to work well
Super Lube-21030 Synthetic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Had the same issue after a couple months with mine as well. I picked up a small tube of synthetic grease and it went away.
This is a food grade grease. So if you ever start printing with PETG to make stuff that may come in contact with food, it's a safer alternative than a petroleum based grease.
A small dab on above and below the Z screw nut should last a few months. Reapply as needed.
Majority of us use this grease from airsoft places are a scam. $8 for basically 3 spoon fulls of this stuff.
Mine does this too but so do all my controllers I like to use https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=mp_s_a_1_22?crid=1HOCTTFAKJY9T&keywords=silicone+grease&pscroll=1&qid=1653343469&sprefix=silicone+grease+%2Caps%2C184&sr=8-22&wIndexMainSlot=31 to smooth stuff out, a small dab will do.
I personally use this. It's fairly inexpensive, can be used to grease rods, screws, pack bearings, etc. One tube has lasted me through many different iterations of my Ender 3, a Prusa MK3S+ build, and a Voron 2.4 build.
Super Lube-21030 Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease, 3 Oz. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_E07BN62CZN8YNPZ0J6S7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I use this for nearly everything that needs grease in my house, including some bike parts. description says, Super Lube is a USDA/NSF listed Food Grade lubricant NLGI-2, rated H-1 for incidental food contact, and will not run, drip, melt or separate.
This recently happened on my Mars 3. Just gotta lube up the z screw. This is what I used:
Super Lube-21030 Synthetic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
When lubing it, I used a paper towel to wipe off the old grease, applied the lube, then worked it in/wiped off excess with another paper towel
I use this: Super Lube-21030 Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease. Works great.
I use this: Super Lube-21030 Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease. Works great.
3-in-one is not a great lubricant for rolling bearings, it’s formulated more for penetrating and cleaning seized/gummed parts to get them moving than a long-term lubricant. But 3D printer service conditions are pretty mild, so you’ll probably get away with it for a long time. The most important thing is just keeping the surfaces “wet” so they don’t rust or gall. Engine oil or sewing machine oil are better choices if you really want to use oil instead of grease. Don’t let any of them drip on the build plate.
Personally I use Superlube grease, it’s skin-safe and doesn’t smell. Much better choice for desktop equipment than white lithium grease.
Super Lube-21030 Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease, 3 Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/
CRK fluoridated grease turned me onto "ptfe" grease in general.
Here's the one I use now. Don't overpay for CRK grease.
Super Lube-21030 Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease, 3 Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_8HEVX0FM7NH6NS4Y9PDZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
For what we do this is fine for lube. (See link). Don’t use WD-40 or oil. You need something that is sticky, a general purpose grease is just fine.
Super Lube 21030 Translucent White Color 3 oz. Automotive Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iiG3CbVH2G4RC
Dunno if its ok to post a link but below is what I use.
My sister just picked up a 2014 JK with some pretty crusty hinges. I didn't replace the liners but I cleaned off the corrosion on the pins and lubed it up. Now the doors swing freely and go on and off without a problem
Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LNeFBbRMRJWJ1
Without lube, they are smoother than other stabilizers I've tried. But with lube, I can't say I notice a big difference in actual use, so the Zeal stabilizers might not be worth the price premium. You should at least get genuine Cherry stabilizers and some lube, though.
Superlube Synthetic grease also works great, is safe to use on plastic and is non-toxic. You can find it here, https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518152510&sr=8-1&keywords=superlube+synthetic+grease. It comes in various sizes. You can also purchase a 14oz cartridge of it for a few dollars more but I prefer to have it in a plastic tube.
Some people that have used white lithium grease have said that it can dry up a bit and clump up over time. I did a lot of research before deciding on the best grease to use for the N64 joystick.
Thanks. I got me some super lube synthetic grease because I think I read on here that a synthetic grease like that is good for almost all o ring materials. Hope I got it right!
Yes. If you outer chamfer the tube edge, it will prevent the tube edge from catching on the o-ring.
Additionally, you can lightly lube the o-ring (see Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/). Lubing will allow the tube to go in much easier while still maintaining a seal. You want the lightest coating you can do. I use a foam tip art brush applicator.)
I used this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and they accidentally sent me an entire box of like 10 tubes (lol) but it worked.
I also found that I needed to loosen the tension plates a bit to et the resistance I wanted
No, but similar. It's this one There's a bit of grease still clinging to the gears, in a film, so I think i'm just applying too much
I don't know that grease, I use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 as it was recommended in a candle power forum and the price was right. I didn't want to spend $20+ on NanoOil. It's a pretty thin grease once you spread it around and I have found it useful on more than just flashlights. 1 tube will last you a lifetime I would say.
I used this for my stabilizers: Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube by Super Lube https://www.amazon.de/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QLATybMWDFXHH
If you can still reach the points where the wire is having contact with the oring (seems like you can) with a small paintbrush, you can still apply lube.
Sure -- i edited my comment to say REGREASE not DEGREASE for the valve... typo
The most versatile high quality grease is, IMO, super lube. http://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI
Cannot go wrong with that stuff. Of course, some will say not to use grease on a carbon seatpost. I am in the camp that believes that is FUD. If you feel like following that advice, go for the Tacx carbon assembly paste instead as the guy above linked. I use that paste and it is less abrasive to the finish of the inserted post than other brands while still being grippy enough.
I use Super Lube in my old S-K ratchets. Made them a lot quieter and very smooth.
Honestly thought, I don't think it really makes much of a difference what grease you use, as long as it's not low viscosity so it doesn't seep out of the ratchet.
Not oil, grease. Needs to be a Vaseline-like consistency.
Any automotive grease should do, just pick up a tube of synthetic or white lithium grease at any auto parts store. Here's a cheap tube on Amazon
You have to remove the bearings to properly grease them, putting grease on the rods won't help at all. You can use this printable bearing packer to really get it in there good. A small craft brush also works pretty well, just smush it directly into the bearing races (small channels with the balls on the inside of the bearing), just take care not to knock any of the balls out!
Maybe browse Thingiverse, and look for some Files that you wanna print, also buy IPA (at least 90 %) for wiping the Buildplate, be sure that you have a good grease (PTFE-Grease or better SuperLube) on Hand for the Z-Lead-Screw ( https://www.amazon.de/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_5?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&dchild=1&keywords=superlube&qid=1623053922&sr=8-5 )
You need a tool to proof that your Ender3 is completely squared, any slightly difference or unevenness lead to bad prints.
Filament for starters is PLA, I order mine mostly via Amazon, and check the Comments before to ensure its quality.
If your humidity is that high, consider to buy a Food-dehydrator to dry your Filaments regularly (https://www.amazon.de/Gemlux-Lebensmittel-D%C3%B6rrautomat-Einlegef%C3%A4cher-Temperaturregler/dp/B0891S2V27/ref=sr_1_10?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=1B1TP9BQBI56B&dchild=1&keywords=food+dehydrator&qid=1623054392&sprefix=food+de%2Caps%2C189&sr=8-10 )
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If possible consider building a complete enclosure for your Printer so that your filament is not at risk to soak the Water, (also, than you'll be able to print ABS)
You can read already the Calibration-Website from TeachingTech ( https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html ) so you already know what to do first after construction.
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The delivered Bowden Tube literally sucks, also the Plastic Extruder and the Leveling Springs, so maybe you'll need (OK that's not important from the beginning):
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If you have the time, watch some reviews and Videos about your Printer, often you will get a lot of helpful Tips especially for your Model.
>I’ve heard there’s some oil you can use in it
Do NOT use oil. Use grease. Super Lube synthetic grease works great. It’s food safe grade, like the grease that initially comes with the Handy. Apply it with a Q-tip, per the instructions on Handy’s website. You can get it at Harbor Freight:
https://www.harborfreight.com/85-gram-super-lube-grease-cartridge-93744.html
Or Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Translucent-Automotive-Accessories/dp/B000XBH9HI?th=1&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI Get some grease like this. Or try a new nut as someone else suggested in another reply
Superlube you can buy for almost nothing directly off of amazon, I don't really see the point in a GB... and a lot of people tried that but it always fell flat because the GB prices are always so much higher in comparison to buying a whole liter of the oil directly.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Synthetic-Grease-Syncolon-Purpose-Lubricant/dp/B000XBH9HIhttps://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/lubricants-and-chemicals/greases/super-lube-greases/f/7663
You want to get 21030 Multi Purpose PTFE Silicone Grease and 51004 Multi Purpose PTFE Silicone Oil - both can be mixed - they do not separate - 70% grease 30% oil is the commonly known geekhack mix.
In our last GB we added superlube oil as addon lube, we charged $2 for 5ml and that already felt like it's way overpriced because 1 liter is like $70... https://i.imgur.com/4kDdNDT.png
To add-on, I used a 99% Isoprop soak, moved the rails all around in the "bath" for a good 3-4 minutes, then dried them out and lubricated them with "Super Lube 21030"
Oh, I've got this stuff. Parts # 21030.
Often too many balls are squeezed into the carts. Helped with one of my cheap amazon linear rails to just remove 1 or 2 balls and they worked fine after that.
What type of grease are you using? I used WD40 Lithium grease and on others this lube: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B000XBH9HI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I think its a US product so should be available.
Update to the update: the problem came back. What ultimately fixed it applying some synthetic grease (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to where the cylinder meets the base and now the problem is gone for good.
Super Lube-21030 Synthetic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Question for those recommending super lube - what product are we talking about? They make both grease and oil.
I use this - https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI on my ratchets, but only a light smear on everything inside, not packed like you might a wheel bearing. Keeps everything quiet and smooth and doesn't seem to need re-application.
Is this the superlube we are all talking about, or are people using the oil on ratchet rebuilds?https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51004-Synthetic-Viscosity/dp/B000UKUHXK
I completed my MK3S+ build about 70 days ago. The whole process took me 6 days, but I worked on it sporadically due to other commitments.
The other suggestions are good. Here are a few that I didn’t see mentioned that helped me:
- Buy a screwdriver set with 2.0mm and 2.5mm hex heads and a skinny handle. It will save you a ton of time over using the provided L-shaped Allen keys.
- Pick up a pack of 3mm washers. There were so many commenter warnings about cracking the fan that points at the nozzle. I added washers to both sides of the 2 screw holes.
- Might be overkill, but I followed a suggestion to apply some blue Loctite on the aluminum frame screws. Do NOT use it on any of the plastic parts!
- Only open the bags associated with the step you are on. When you open a bag of screws, sort and separate them by size using the provided reference sheet. There were so many comments about using the wrong length screw in an earlier step. I even went as far as to write the screw ID on scraps of paper and place them with the sorted screws.
- You will see so much debate on whether to grease the bearings. I chose to grease them after watching this video that cites documentation from the bearing manufacturer. I soaked them in 91% IPA for about an hour occasionally swirling the alcohol, air dried, and applied this often-recommended grease using the method in the video.
- This is the most tedious part of the build, but skim the first 15-20 (if not all of the) comments before starting a step. Even the seemingly easy steps with 5 comments have good info. For example, a few of the later comments suggest not installing the door on the electronics box until after managing all of the cabling, which was 100% correct.
- I personally had better luck carefully PUSHING the tiny hex nuts into plastic pieces than doing the Prusa-graphic-indicated screw PULLING technique. Do what works best for you with the least likelihood of cracking the plastic.
- After inserting ANY tiny square nut into a plastic piece, make sure it is all the way in by partially screwing in a screw.
- It is critical to check your aluminum frame assembly on a flat, level surface. One of the four legs is notorious for throwing off the levelness of the base.
—
It’s an occasionally frustrating build, but very satisfying in the end.
Super Lube-21030 Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease, 3 Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Q67ENVVNJYEBP0A9PCVA
Don't buy silicone oil. Buy Super Lube 21030. It's on Amazon, but it should also be sold in hardware stores.
Super Lube, good and affordable. $5.50 for a tube
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI
I completed my MK3S+ build about 45 days ago. The whole process took me 6 days, but I worked on it sporadically due to other commitments.
The other suggestions are good. Here are a few that I didn’t see mentioned that helped me:
- Buy a screwdriver set with 2.0mm and 2.5mm hex heads and a skinny handle. It will save you a ton of time over using the provided L-shaped Allen keys.
- Pick up a pack of 3mm washers. There were so many commenter warnings about cracking the fan that points at the nozzle. I added washers to both sides of the 2 screw holes.
- Might be overkill, but I followed a suggestion to apply some blue Loctite on the aluminum frame screws. Do NOT use it on any of the plastic parts!
- Only open the bags associated with the step you are on. When you open a bag of screws, sort and separate them by size using the provided reference sheet. There were so many comments about using the wrong length screw in an earlier step. I even went as far as to write the screw ID on scraps of paper and place them with the sorted screws.
- You will see so much debate on whether to grease the bearings. I chose to grease them after watching this video that cites documentation from the bearing manufacturer. I soaked them in 91% IPA for about an hour occasionally swirling the alcohol, air dried, and applied this often-recommended grease using the method in the video.
- This is the most tedious part of the build, but skim the first 15-20 (if not all of the) comments before starting a step. Even the seemingly easy steps with 5 comments have good info. For example, a few of the later comments suggest not installing the door on the electronics box until after managing all of the cabling, which was 100% correct.
- I personally had better luck carefully PUSHING the tiny hex nuts into plastic pieces than doing the Prusa-graphic-indicated screw PULLING technique. Do what works best for you with the least likelihood of cracking the plastic.
- After inserting ANY tiny square nut into a plastic piece, make sure it is all the way in by partially screwing in a screw.
- It is critical to check your aluminum frame assembly on a flat, level surface. One of the four legs is notorious for throwing off the levelness of the base.
—
It’s an occasionally frustrating build, but very satisfying in the end.
I completed my MK3S+ build earlier this week. The whole process took me 6 days, but I worked on it sporadically due to other commitments.
The suggestions below are good. Here are a few that I didn’t see mentioned that helped me:
- Buy a screwdriver set with 2.0mm and 2.5mm hex heads and a skinny handle. It will save you a ton of time over using the provided L-shaped Allen keys.
- Pick up a pack of 3mm washers. There were so many commenter warnings about cracking the fan that points at the nozzle. I used 2 washers on both sides of the 2 screw holes.
- Might be overkill, but I followed a suggestion to apply some blue Loctite on the aluminum frame screws. Do NOT use it on any of the plastic parts!
- Only open the bags associated with the step you are on. When you open a bag of screws, sort and separate them by size using the provided reference sheet. There were so many comments about using the wrong length screw in an earlier step. I even went as far as to write the screw ID on scraps of paper and place them with the sorted screws.
- You will see so much debate on whether to grease the bearings. I chose to grease them after watching this video that cites documentation from the bearing manufacturer. I soaked them in 92% IPA for about an hour occasionally swirling the alcohol, air dried, and applied this often-recommended grease using the method in the video.
- This is the most tedious part of the build, but skim the first 15-20 (if not all of the) comments before starting a step. Even the seemingly easy steps with 5 comments have good info. For example, a few of the later comments suggest not installing the door on the electronics box until after managing all of the cabling, which was 100% correct.
- I personally had better luck carefully PUSHING the tiny hex nuts into plastic pieces than doing the Prusa-graphic-indicated screw PULLING technique. Do what works best for you with the least likelihood of cracking the plastic.
- After inserting ANY tiny square nut into a plastic piece, make sure it is all the way in by partially screwing in a screw.
This last suggestion probably should have been my first, but it may also be seen as overkill. After reading and watching many things while I waited for my printer to ship, I was worried about printer noise and stability. Ultimately I decided to go with the oft-recommended paver stone route.
I went one step further to level my paver stone — on my build table to start, and on my printer’s final resting surface after — with a level, 1” tall foam pieces for feet under the four corners, and some foam shelf liner for raising one or two corners.
Even if you choose not to worry with any of the overkill above, it is critical to check your aluminum frame assembly on a flat, level surface. One of the four legs is notorious for throwing off the levelness of the base. I was able to catch and fix this because I knew I had a flat, level foundation.
— It’s a occasionally frustrating build, but very [satisfying in the end](It’s a satisfying, but at times frustrating, build. ).
Krytox 205 is expensive because it is designed for things that aren't keyboards; it's meant for lubricating seals in systems that transport chemicals and gases.
These two lubricants are made to work with plastics, costs less, and can mixed together to achieve your desired viscosity. https:
Just use this: Super Lube-21030 Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease, 3 Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_E973YJMD9VC219ZR20VJ
also superlube for the lead screws: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/
and PTFE for the linear rods: https://www.amazon.com/3-ONE-Multi-Purpose-PTFE-Lubricant/dp/B00J25JDDY/
I use super lube but yeah, same principle.
You need some super lube for that squeeking, you can also replace the brass lead screw nuts with these: https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Backlash-Threaded-Eliminate-Accessories/dp/B07XYR3F4C/ref=sr_1_3?crid=IM1I4KFZG3PW&keywords=pom+nuts+ender+5+plus&qid=1646029483&sprefix=pom+nuts+ender+5+plu%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-3
Also make sure your lead screws are fully straight and do not have bends/are in at an angle.
Also if you are using a non stock board, you should do dual z axies and run G34
Gears: https://store.kitsch-bent.com/products/n64-gear-sets?variant=40627490324675
Grease: Super Lube-21030 Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease, 3 Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_6E7MNYDXRW7SWHYMEC1W
Start by taking spart the joystick module. Very carefully apply a bit of super glue on the bottom on the thumbstick (where it touches the bowl) to extrude it a bit. Give the spring a good stretch, and replace the gears (the gears may need to be trimmed). Apply a tiny drop of superlube wherever there are plastic parts rubbing against each other. Assemble and it should look more or less like mine. Best of luck!
I use this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI
It's what I used on my 3d printer bearings, so I figured it should work okay on the BTU bearings. It seems to be working alright so far 🤷♂️
Gotcha. Well, in a pinch you could try some Superlube on the stabs, which is probably easier to find. Far from ideal, but better than nothing.
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI
21030
It works well for a multitude of applications, including keyboard stabilizers.
Super Lube-21030 Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease, 3 Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_GEKQCDBHADGMZDY4NZK8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I use Super Lube-21030 Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease, 3 Oz. (http:// https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_5TGF85M29A700YNCZQWS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)
Hello, I am glad I stumbled across this thread, I've been looking for an alternative to the very expensive Krytox lube that is commonly used, and I'm glad to confirm that there are cheaper options. Here is some additional information I found about Super Lube and its viscosity and compatibility:
According to the following video, all Super Lube® Multi-Purpose Synthetic Lubricant with Syncolon® (PTFE) products are the same but with differing viscosities to suit different purposes:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgeRxaG1PsU
About different packaging: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4PzeLaHzA94
​
Since the company that makes Super Lube already manufactures the product in different viscosities, it seems like mixing grease + oil to get the right consistency might not be needed if you just but the product with the desired consistency.
If I'm interpreting information correctly, it seems like Krytox 205g0 equivalent grease would match MULTI-PURPOSE SYNTHETIC GREASE NLGI 0 WITH SYNCOLON® (NLGI is the viscosity number https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NLGI_consistency_number, the default viscosity is NLGI 2 so the NLGI 0 version would be thinner according to the wikipedia article). Listed are the same product in different packaging (I couldn't find the viscosity rating NLGI 0 version on amazon but they do have the NLGI 2 version if you want to buy that instead):
NLGI 0:
- https://www.super-lube.com/multi-purpose-synthetic-grease-nlgi-0-with-syncolon-ptfe-411600
- https://www.super-lube.com/multi-purpose-synthetic-grease-nlgi-0-with-syncolon-ptfe-411500
- https://www.super-lube.com/multi-purpose-synthetic-grease-nlgi-0-with-syncolon-ptfe-415800
NLGI 2, 4oz:
And a similar oil to Krytox 105 would be MULTI-USE SYNTHETIC OIL WITH SYNCOLON® (PTFE) (MULTI-PURPOSE) in 4oz and 32oz versions:
- https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51004-Synthetic-Viscosity/dp/B000UKUHXK/
- https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51030-Synthetic-Translucent/dp/B0025PR4K2
Also I've seen Super Lube aerosols used as spray lube in mechanical keyboard build youtube videos:
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I am going to purchase these Super Lube alternatives to test them out, but I have not personally tried any Krytox lubes so I cannot compare the performance. If anyone has experience with both products, please share know how they compare. Thanks!
​
References:
This chart is info for the grease version (I'm not certain but I think the different numbers for the product like 21030 / 41150 are just to indicate different packaging for the same grease product, and each section indicates a different viscosity / NLGI consistency number):
https://www.super-lube.com/multi-purpose-synthetic-grease-with-syncolon-ptfe
Chart for the oil version:
https://www.super-lube.com/multi-use-synthetic-oil-with-syncolon-ptfe
Chart for the aerosol version:
https://www.super-lube.com/multi-purpose-lubricant-with-syncolon-ptfe
Compatibility chart for Super Lube:
https://www.super-lube.com/Content/Images/uploaded/documents/Compatability%20Charts/Super%20Lube%20Compatability%20Chart%20for%20both%20Grease%20and%20Oil.pdf
Please post also wobbles lines images. Use superlube grease with syncolon to lube the axis and block. This should help ur wobbles problems. Keep in mind to install a damper on z axis, this helps avoid wobbles. Post images. Cuts and holes are not related to the wobbles problems, be sure to have cleaned well ur vat and tighten ur nfep. worned or damaged fep from past failed prints can be the problem. I replaced quite fast nfep cuz failed prints.
Superlube: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI
My Post related wobbles
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I don't think so. The community consensus always falls to this exact grease: Superlube
The bearings will come packaged coated with an oil to protect from rusting. This oil is easily removed by soaking in IPA for a few hours and then letting them completely dry. I know this seems like a hassle, but it's 100% worth the effort.
I use a toothpick to put a blob of grease about the size of a grain of rice on the linear actuator gear. One tube of this stuff is probably a lifetime supply unless you misplace it.
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI
I use this stuff for my leadscrews and linear rail carriages, it works great and you don’t need much.
In this reddit post, OP talks about how they feel they Krytox is something that is way too high performance to be used on switches. They instead suggest taking Super Lube Grease and Super Lube Oil and mixing them, essentially creating a Krytox Mix with SuperLube. Both are readily available as well :) However, as others have mentioned, especially because this is your first time, cutting corners while doing this isn't the best choice.
I did this mod and also used Super Lube 21030 with the steel bearings.
If yours is coming from the screw, I put some of this stuff on it and it shut up https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI
If you want a budget option, Super Lube is awesome.
I believe that grease is actually ideal for bearings in terms of longevity of the application and I was recommended some superlube synthetic PTFE grease. It’s pretty cheap on amazon and there are printable bearing packers on thingiverse you can use to get it all the way in the races.
I actually didn’t have grease when I built it so I used some synthetic PTFE oil on the rods and that has seemed to be fine. From the good article below, the important thing is that you don’t apply different (synthetic vs. non-synthetic) lubricants at the same time. Hence ideally you degrease the oil they are shipped in with isopropanol before applying more grease. However, I read that the shipping oil is synthetic so I just applied the synthetic PTFE oil to the rods without de-greasing. I am just about to tear down and revise the bearings with grease the proper way myself actually.
So bottom line is that if your oil with PTFE is synthetic you can just apply it directly, but the ideal would be to de-grease and then apply grease of your choice.
Here’s a great resource: https://prusacommunity.com/setyour-bearing-straight/
And the superlube: Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7yCWCb21H21WM
Thingiverse link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3328377
thats possible, mine was towards the end of the warranty. i'm not an expert printer by any means but i haven't noticed any differences with how the printer prints aside from being visually displeasing (rods not prints). i did pull my bearings off, grease them with some super lube (recommended by prusa) using a linear bearing grease cap i found on thingiverse, then slightly offset the bearings from the grooves when i put them back on.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=psdc_552518_t1_B06WLQ251B?th=1&psc=1
Plastic safe superlube.
Here's the link where I last purchased it from Amazon (still using the same tube, it'll last forever): Amazon Link - SuperLube 21030
Most hardware stores should have it, if not amazon. https://www.amazon.ca/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI
Get a tube of this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_3?hvadid=78134096032495&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywords=super+lube+synthetic+lubricant&qid=1575577941&sr=8-3
You can lube everything in your life with it.
Be careful with WD-40. Don't get it inside the pedal on any electronics. If you use it, make sure the pedal is not powered and if it gets inside, make sure it's dry. I would clean up with alcohol too to get rid of residue it leaves.
Super Lube 21030 Translucent White Color 3 oz. Automotive Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J041Cb6HXVCWF
Multipurpose Grease, XHP 222 SPECIAL, 14.1 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009VGEEM4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_v441CbAQWR8KJ
Any grease is better than none. It’s also helps quality. I use mobile grease, left over from my CNC repair days. One tube is a lifetime supply for the little you need, use a Q-Tip and apply a thin coat all the way up, Run your Z-axis all the way up and down, and apply a little every month. I use a old medication bottle to keep a small supply next to my machine. Keep the Q-tip in the bottle. When the grease turns a dirty white, just wipe away the extra and reapply. Do not use oil, that makes a mess and disappears. If you need to clean the Z axis rod and bearing, use mineral sprits on a clean rag and wipe it clean and dry, add new grease.
This is what I use. Big improvement in prints. Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jDe7CbKSHZ7KG
Update: After using the printer a bit more the problem came back but I'll still leave this here because maybe this can help someone else, it just didn't work for me
My printer is about 8 months old and recently started making a similar sound (except mine is mostly the y-axis). Over the past 2 days I have probably spent about 12 hours trouble shooting mine, I'm have not fully fixed mine yet but I have gotten a big improvement so far and am not sure how much of this applies to the x-axis but I figure I'll say what I have learned so far
- I found that most of the noise was was not coming directly from the y-carriage itself (even though that's where the problem is) but it was the vibrations being carried out through the frame and rattling parts that are not tightly secured and you can't fix all of these because some are inside the power supply and the other is the lcd shaking in its mount. If you can't figure out exactly where the sound is coming from try carefully picking up the printer while its running and this should make most of the vibrations stop so in my case this was what allowed me to confirm it was something with the y axis. I also went around the entire printer and tightened all of the screws I saw just to make sure nothing was lose.
- I know that others have said it in here and ill repeat it check your bearings
- Lubricating your bearings the link that /u/Dryja123 posted earlier is the guide that I followed and it does a very good job of explaining what you should do. I personally used Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease.
- Check the bearing orientation and make sure that the balls are actually properly aligned with the rod, these being slightly off can make a pretty significant to print quality and noise
- Loosening belt tension, this was one that surprised me and I don't know why it worked, but I was getting desperate, my y-belt was at 297 before and I found that by bringing that down to 280 also had some improvement.
So far these things helped a lot, I'm probably calling mine good enough for now and will try again once my MMU shows up and the printer is taken apart for that. Some other things that I will be trying if I can't get it to quiet down are new bearings (and maybe new linear rails) and some people have said putting the printer on an inch thick concrete block with some anti-vibration pads underneath can help a lot with noise too
I don't even try to find specialty stuff like that around here, and I live in the Oklahoma City area. I bought the Superlube from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Synthetic-FamilyValue-kes-Super/dp/B000XBH9HI?th=1
No idea why Dielectric Grease price gone so weird on Amazon. Have you considered looking at eBay?
Superlube link comes in 3 different types iirc. I mix the thin one with the grease in a 1:1 ratio
Save yourself $20 and grab this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI
I lubed up my Hog 2 years ago and while I'm about due for a re-apply, it's still smoother than it was OOB. It has not eaten the plastic.
You can go with Techkeys, or 1UpKeyboards, or I typically will use Superlube (there are a couple different types of lubricant under that brand, so make sure you are getting the right one) The one I linked above has worked great for me.
Don't overdo it, look up a guide.
And remember to put your stabs in before you solder. I've screwed that up twice.
So use amazon.ca
Could use food-grade lubes like this one.
Ah, I did manage to find the grease you mentioned. It's this one, right?
Thanks for the advice!
RC shock oil in the 30-50 weight range is dirt cheap.
You are thinking of Super Lube
I feel the same. Cherry ones are convenient, but Costar flat-out does the job better. Recommend this grease which is cheap and enough to last forever. https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/
I use Super-Lube for practically everything I can these days, including flashlight threads. It has a very similar consistency to the stuff that comes already applied to Zebralight threads. It is very, very smooth.
According to an email Zebralight sent me last year, they use Nyogel 760G on their flashlight threads, but that stuff is expensive and I find Super-Lube to work equally as well.
Here is CandlePowerForum's comprehensive grease and lube thread. Super-Lube is on their "very good" section, along with Nyogel and a few others, so that's what I recommend.
What did you pack the bearings with originally?
Here's what I use: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468280863&sr=8-1&keywords=superlube
I also have a self-built i3 that was loud when first built. I was able to cut down on noise by doing the following:
- Added rubber feet to all printer parts that touch whatever the printer is sitting on. My printer was turning my hollow IKEA table into giant soundboard.
- Added stepper motor vibration dampers (the type sold here) to X and Y steppers.
- Adjusted the current on my stepper motor drivers. Too high or too low will cause noise.
- Fiddled with bearing alignment on X and Y carriages. They're loud if even slightly out of alignment.
- Added a larger, slower spinning fan to my E3D hotend with an adapter found on Thingiverse.
- Cleaned my linear rods with rubbing alcohol and lubricated with PTFE lubricant. I used Finish Line Dry Teflon Lube, but any will do. (As an aside, you should also use synthetic grease on your threaded rods. Nothing to do with noise, but will help extend the life of your parts.)
Also, periodically make sure that all nuts are tight. They tend to loosen from vibration allowing washers to rattle around.
My next step will probably be using IGUS Drylin bearings in place of my ball bearing LM8UUs, but this plan is on hold while I consider switching to a CoreXY configuration.
Hope this helps!
Is this what you suggested? http://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/
[This stuff](www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI) is what I just grabbed. Will be here tomorrow.
Super Lube and CLP
Don't bother with Krytox. Just get some Superlube grease and oil and lightly mix them to reach your desired thickness.
Your desired thickness is up to the user. I was previously using very thin mixture (maybe 80% oil, 20% grease) which was OK, but I tried 70% grease, 30% oil, and I found that I preferred the thicker mixture.
I find superlube to be better than white lithium grease for metal.
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