The little tabletop fasteners- those metal brackets? You can get them at any woodworking store- Rockler, Woodcraft- or on Amazon. I think they're just called tabletop fasteners.
Edit: here:
Table Top Fasteners https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DSZRDS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TANUzbMDJSCZ9
Acceptance is a personal thing. The problem I can see with just gluing the legs to the top is expansion and contraction.
Wood is essentially a bundle of straws that absorb and shed humidity. When it absorbs it, the wood expands, when it sheds it, it contracts. The good part is that it’s predictable, in that it always expands and contracts in the direction of the grain. Depending on the conditions, it will do so up to a 1/4”.
If you just glue the legs on, the expansion will cause a great deal of strain in the wood that will give when it hits critical. Maybe it gives on the glue line, maybe in the middle of the board, either way, you end up with cracks. If you use route a lip into the bottom of the table with a keyhole bit and use z clamps, then the table can move with out binding and splitting.
To use the legs as you asked, you’d have to glue them in along the grain. They don’t look long enough to support the table in that direction without some serious tipping issues.
Acceptance is a personal thing. The problem I can see with just gluing the legs to the top is expansion and contraction.
Wood is essentially a bundle of straws that absorb and shed humidity. When it absorbs it, the wood expands, when it sheds it, it contracts. The good part is that it’s predictable, in that it always expands and contracts in the direction of the grain. Depending on the conditions, it will do so up to a 1/4”.
If you just glue the legs on, the expansion will cause a great deal of strain in the wood that will give when it hits critical. Maybe it gives on the glue line, maybe in the middle of the board, either way, you end up with cracks. If you use route a lip into the bottom of the table with a keyhole bit and use z clamps, then the table can move with out binding and splitting.
Traditional approach was to use a slot in the apron and a block that engages with it. Like this.
You can also just use a thin stip of steel/aluminium and drill two holes. Sand the corners off and you have a figure 8.
How about something like these table top fasteners? Route/Table saw a groove in the aprons and insert the bracket into it. Screw it to the underside of the table top. This will allow for table top movement.
I'm working on a table with a skirt underneath, and plan on using Rockler table top fasteners with a biscuit joiner.
Maybe you can use them as well, but attach them with the biscuit holes on the stretchers?
If clamps pull it back "relatively easily" then a proper apron and table top Z-clamps should work fine.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DSZRDS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here is an article that talks about using them.
https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/tabletop-fasteners#
I prefer the Z-type for pulling the top down. I use my biscuit joiner for cutting slots. This allows me to put slots where I need them. Others like using a slot along the entire length cut with a table saw. Both types of slots are shown in the article. My concern is that the longer slot has less strength when resisting the table top warping up.
Just make sure that the offset for the slot is enough that the z-clamps actually can apply a force when the joint is made up properly. Something like 1/8" higher than the no-force position.
I need help attaching this monitor (more images) to the back of the board. There are no screw holes in the front and I've looked at tabletop fasteners and I've thought of making a gap for the monitor to fit in but I don't have a router. what I'm making
I apologize for the critique with no offer of Help. I was concerned about the pocket holes that ran on all sides of the top that secure it to the apron. My suggestion would be to you table top fasteners that secure to the top with screws and the wedge into a groove routed into the apron. This will allow for expansion across the width of the table, yet leave it secure to the apron for support. Love the look of the table btw.
Figure 8 table top fasteners on the apron, or these that require a rabbet in the apron.
The stain was Varathane's Kona color, and the finish was Minwax semi-gloss polyurethane.
The tabletop is attached with tabletop fasteners, like these: http://www.amazon.com/Rockler-Table-Top-Fasteners/dp/B001DSZRDS/