Impact screwdriver. Note: I'm thinking the one that you hit with a sledge, not the one you'd use to install drywall screws or something..
This is one of many examples. Be aware that they can also usually be used for TIGHTENING, so make sure it's set right before whacking it.
Also comes in handy for removing Honda brake rotor screws!
It you are mechanically inclined, brakes are an easy way to save money. Watch a video for your specific car before attempting though. Some times that rotor is held on with the rusted phillips screw from hell, and you don't want to attempt removing that without the right impact tool.
I think we're talking about an impact screwdriver that you hit with a hammer. Like this. Not sure what kind of a bit you would use, though. Maybe a torx, one size up, like someone else on this thread mentioned.
Heating the screw with a soldering iron first will often help loosen it up especially if threadlocker was used on the screws. For stubborn ones I have one of these. It's a hand impact driver that turns the screw when you hit with the hammer. It's probably in every motorcycle mechanic's toolbox.
Note, the DRZ doesn't use phillips head screws, they are JIS screws. They're just different enough from phillips head that when you use a phillips head screw driver they are really prone to stripping the head. Especially if the screw is relatively snug. Investing in a set of JIS screwdrivers to work on the DRZ is really worth it.
Otherwise I've had really good luck using a manual impact driver (like this) with a phillips bit.
This, except don’t be afraid to soak for longer - even a day or two. Just keep hitting it with penetrating fluid fluid every couple hours and let it soak overnight. When you’re ready to remove them try something like this. It’s an impact driver you strike with a mallet.
Source: I wrench on a lot of shitbox cars
Impact screw driver, it's a tool you put a bit in (i.e Phillips or torx in BMW's case) set the direction, and give it a whack with a hammer. 99% of the time the rotor carrier screw comes loose. Here's one on Amazon
Big tip - only cars with wheel studs (Germans and now FCA vehicles) need the screw re-installed.
Domestic and Japanese using wheel nuts, use the screw to hold the rotor in place while the vehicle is being built, (so a rotor doesn't fall off the car and hit a factory worker) apart from that it doesn't really serve a purpose.
You can get away without using it on the German cars too, but you have to make sure if the bolt snapped that it's flush with the hub.
It's really annoying trying to get the stud through the wheel then the rotor and then to the hub with out the screw holding the rotor in place.
If the wrench/socket as suggested by others doesn't work, get an impact scretdriver, like this. I've removed some really knarley screws with that tool. Use it as gently as you can so you don't dent the fridge.
As others suggested, use a pick/scribe to dig the paint out. If they're in an area that can handle some pounding, sometimes you can break the stubborn ones loose with a manual impact driver.
Try different brands of screw drivers and tips. They can vary slightly from one manufacturer to another.
You want this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cP2JFbGP3SM2K with a T-40 socket. You strike it with a hammer, that force turns the socket and keeps it from popping out of the bolt. Used this to pull an old Honda engine apart that was held together with Phillips bolts, no stripping.
I would use a hammer impact screw driver(like this one https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=hammer+impact+screwdriver&qid=1664314224&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIzLjU3IiwicXNhIjoiMy40NCIsInFzcCI6IjIuODQifQ%3D%3D&sr=8-3) on it with as big of a torx bit as I could fit in whats left of the hole in the screw.
Penetrating oil will break loose any rust/corrosion. Can probably bust it loose with an Impact Screw Driver.
You need a gunsmith bit set and a manual impact driver. Instead of battery operated, they look like an ACP and are operated with a hammer strike.
TEKTON 3/8 Inch Drive Impact Screwdriver Set (7-Piece) | 2905 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6C0T5AC6WC3JX0FAQCNV?psc=1
I might consider dremel'ing a slot into that, then using an impact screwdriver in the slot. As an example:
http://smile.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS
The nice thing about an impact screwdriver is that because you are hitting it with a small sledgehammer to get it to turn its very unlikely to pop out of the slot. You might be a little limited on access though, since it looks like the spare tire well may be in the way.
I wouldn't be >too< worried about mangling a single thread or so of that hole so you can get full-width on the slot, but then again, I wasn't the engineer making that part.
Another idea if the other end of that bolt is accessible(which I doubt), is to try moving it with a pair of vice grips, possibly after grinding two flats into it if needed.
I dealt with this recently on a vz58 Compact - couldn’t get the screw to budge and nearly stripped the head in the process due to the hole in the middle reducing leverage.
In the end, what worked for me was an impact driver (this one at Amazon but the Harbor Freight one works too). I heated the screw from the inside with a hair dryer for 30 seconds or so until the outside was hot to the touch, then lined up the impact driver w/ the widest flat bit that fit and gave it a couple of taps at a time until it finally broke the screw free.
TEKTON 3/8 Inch Drive Impact Screwdriver Set (7-Piece) | 2905 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_0Y9015H9257FTQ0SS23P
You want one like this where the driver only turns when you hit it with a hammer so the pressure is always on the screw when turning. Whatever you do, don't use a standard drill with one of those reverse thread bits. It will only strip it worse. I speak from unfortunate experience. You want the driver you hit with a hammer. The psi is off the charts. I've used one for years and it has never failed me.
Penetrating oil like PB blaster to prep the screw first really helps with rust or corrosion. Some mechanics swear by a homebrew version of 50/50 mix of ATF (automatic transmission fluid) and acetone. I tried it once or twice and it really does work.
If all else fails, you can use one of those
https://www.amazon.ca/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS
Its basically a screwdriver on which you hammer. It transforms linear motion to rotation. And since you hammer in the direction of the screw if forces the bit to stay on the screw leaving it very little possibilty of slippage. It works very well for screws stuck in rust !
As others have said, a socket wrench is probably your best option here, though something like this if another option to consider. Especially if you can't use a socket wrench.
It's essentially a screwdriver that you hammer on the back of and it turns the screw little by little each time you hammer it.
I have something like these for Phillips screws that don't wanna come out. I don't know how well it would work with it being attached to glass. Like others have said, heat will probably be your friend
Hitting a regular screwdriver likely wouldn't do much. Some screwdrivers have square or hex shaped shafts that you can put a wrench on for leverage.
They also make manual impact drivers that are meant to be struck with a hammer. When struck, an internal mechanism also rotates the tip. For example https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/
Buy a heat gun for future work. Heat up bolts without damaging them with a torch. Also a manual impact driver. One of both together would have made quick work of these.
TEKTON 3/8 Inch Drive Impact Screwdriver Set (7-Piece) | 2905 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_20Z6S1P70JV16DHFSEHB
A manual impact driver, place pedal securely in a vice. Use the impact driver and a hammer, should work.
TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_SPYHZFX59DH5Q5RKN8C8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
First off, it's gonna be kind of hard to get those out with the engine in the bike. The correct method, as taught by Motorcycle Mechanic's Institute and many manufacturer's is to use a hammer and hand impact driver with a #3 phillip's bit. It's the only way to remove those screws without damaging them or the engine.
An impact screwdriver will work great. Personally how I got that screw off was to set the seat on its side, take my stumpy screwdriver and put nearly my entire body weight on top and got it to unscrew like that.
Heat. Or a breaker bar and a pipe fog leverage. You have your impact gun going through an adapter. That’s going to eat up a lot of your force by rattling around at that joint.
You can also try an impact driver. They keep tension on the bolt while you hit it with a big hammer.
Manual impact driver sometimes works great, you get the best downforce to prevent torque out at exactly the time you're getting max torque.
IDK how much shock this can take though.
I just took some of those off. They were Torx 25, maybe 20.
They were extremely tight and would not budge with hand pressure. This little widget worked great.
TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Took them off in a second.
Meh, been using philips on jis since I was ten, so 30 years now. Get a hammer impact driver, like this TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_8Jv.Fb97KN9CK And some good screwdrivers.
There is a manual impact driver that will work better than any electric driver. You basically put it on the screw then hit it with a hammer (preferably a dead blow hammer for best results) and it will literally break any screw loose, I’ve used one for many years in the navy on gun mounts when the screws were seized in place due to the rust.
The benefits are that it won’t strip the screws out and it’s cheap enough that you can pick it for about $20 or less at places like harbor freight.
The down side is that it can be hard to use sometimes when in a tight spot while trying to hit the head and it’s not as fast as an electric impact.
If I were you I would use the manual impact to break them loose then use the electric impact to speed up the removal. Here’s a amazon link so you can see what it looks like TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pxIZDbMCYSWGE
You can heat it some with a torch. Just don’t go overboard. I would also suggest buying a manual impact driver. Something like this would help a lot.
TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lsNBFbGGQKCC2
Yup that’s pretty much how it worked! The set I bought was probably more like his second impact that he showed compared to the Vessel. It’s advantage is that it accepts any 1/4 hex bit and the kit comes with two philips and two flats.
So you're sure they said "stator", not "starter"?
This doesn't add up. There are a few ways one could check to see if a motor is seized without attempting to start it using the starter. It sounds to me like they're trying to bamboozle you, or they just don't care about your business.
If I were you, I wouldn't give them a penny. I'd take the bike home, Inspect the stator for catastrophic damage-which would cause the engine to seize (unlikely). Then put a wrench on the crankshaft (or bump start) and see if it moves. If the crank and alternator covers are philips screws, I highly recommend an impact screwdriver.
This thing is more of what i'm talking about.
I can't tell if you have room, but if you do, I'd try one of these along with a hammer.
You need an impact driver, TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_VVNsDbWB1P6WT Some like this are cheap, nicer ones are out there but if you only need it once it might not be worth it.
I have had to use one on my first bikes brake reservoir, and 3 of my friends... they come in handy.
You might want to consider, depending on how tough the thing you're working on is, a manual impact driver.
You can find one of these at most auto parts stores.
TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kdr2AbZP86E84
Need a hammer and just be carful. If this doesn’t work you’ll need to drill out the screws. I have ideas about that but try this tool first.
Not to mention if you're going to be working on a bike being able to remove stupid JIS or Phillips screws without stripping them is invaluable. Buy this and move on with your life. JIS tip not included.
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511535850&sr=8-1&keywords=manual+impact
Get a manual impact for that. Every hit on it turns the driver, so you have maximum force on each turn.
/u/dhroknoobx
Start with tons of lube(I like Kroil and LiquidWrench), then use an impact driver with the correct size bit.
You could try buying an impact driver and using that, which could deliver more torque to the screw than you can with just a regular screw driver.
An impact screwdriver plus some penetrating oil is probably your best bet.
Correction, that link is to an air one. This is the hammer kind that I use: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS
Lmao I don't blame you,
https://www.amazon.ca/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS
https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/9-pc-manual-impact-driver-set/A-p8840191f
Why would you have one with a square drive? You could just use a normal impact gun, they're really only for Phillips head screws, mainly rotor screws for the odd time I do auto.
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS
These two things are absolutely essential and will save you hours of pain...
First of all get the service manual. Look on Ebay for an official Honda manual in PDF form.
The screws can be a little tricky. Use some PB blaster and an impact screwdriver, the type you hit with a hammer.
I wouldn't worry too much about bolts being stuck. Use PB Blaster. I've worked on 25+ year old Hondas removing bolts that had never been removed, you shouldn't have a problem on a car this new. Get a 2 foot ratcheting breaker bar, I have one of these and I wish somebody had told me about them a long time ago, they are great to have.
So long as you have some common sense and take your time you should have no problem.
one of these with the right driver makes easy work of these types of stuck/frozen fasteners.
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS
They are $10 https://www.harborfreight.com/6-bit-impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-64812.html Though they used to sell one that looks like this https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS/
Yea, it was deleted. I and a couple of other folks cruise through the rejected posts, seeing if we might be able to assist in some way.
There are three possible solutions for your screw.
A device known as an impact driver: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS In simple english, it can turn counter-clockwise when hit with a hammer. What this accomplishes is that the screw bit is driven into the screw itself, then tries to turn. IF the metal is soft, this will be all you need. The cheapest ones are found at Harbor Freight. Or borrow one from a mechanic friend.
You use a chisel; specifically a diamond point chisel: https://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-10600-8-Inch-Diamond-Chisel/dp/B002FCP8D0. This concentrates the force of your hammer on a very small area of the screw. Place on the outer edge, with the chisel's travel at a 45 degree inwards. It's going to tear up the metal, but once you get a bite you are home free.
Drill it out. The problem with this is that you can tear up the threads. BUT, if you can hit the screw dead center, a spiral extractor may do the job for you: https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-53535-Extractor/dp/B00004YOBF
Try a manual impact driver:
You put you bit inside, like a screwdriver. Then you take a hammer and smack the end of the impact driver down.
When you do this there is a mechanism inside that will twist the bit while full force of your hammer swing is applied. This will break the screw free.
Locktite can be disabled with heat...obviously if it's on plastic you need to be careful but maybe something like this. https://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-cordless-soldering-iron-64034.html Did you try an 18v impact or hammer impact, something like this https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=hammer+impact+screwdriver&qid=1662777470&sr=8-5 Seems like one of those should get it off in conjunction with a little heat.
I have this one and it works just fine
I use an impact screwdriver for these kind of shitty screws, they dig really well into damaged stuff like this. (example of one I used to help me disassemble my car's engine a while back. https://www.amazon.ca/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS )
This is the tool you want
US link for a decent brand: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=3VQYW4U3CRYGX&keywords=impact+driver&qid=1653337639&sprefix=imp%2Caps%2C97&sr=8-4
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS
Impact screw driver, no idea why these aren’t recommended more often. Mine will get any stuck screw turning, up there in my favorite tools list
First things first, try a good impact driver for cheap, I use and like this one: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS
Secondly - are you sure the PO didn't already do it, if the screw is stripped?
Like this: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS
I’ve started using my Dewalt impact driver with the bit and they usually come right out. If not, titanium or cobalt drills are your friend.
If going this route, use one of these to get it started: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS
Get an impact screw driver set. Here's a link...TEKTON 3/8 Inch Drive Impact Screwdriver Set (7-Piece) | 2905 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_04X2Y34RD5VXMVZW0TK9
ah ok, so this tool is different than an easyout screw extractor. this is meant for using before the screw gets damaged.
i wonder if this tool is more useful than an impact screwdriver? like this https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS
i have one of these and i've used it a few times. very useful and effective, but i could see how this tool MAY be a little bit too aggressive.
For anyone else looking to change their rotors, get one of these for removing that screw
TEKTON 3/8 Inch Drive Impact... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
We go fuck, fuck, fuck!
Then we see if we got a similar one in the junk drawers, (well the others do, I don't keep a junk drawer, but if I have spare nuts bolts washers I throw them in my neighbors junk drawer) then we see if advance(the closest store) has a replacement on the shelf. When they don't we go to Hokel's Machine Supply, cuz they have every nut and bolt there is. But if it's very special, then we see if a dealership can get us one or the junkyard can take one from another car.
Also we try not to fuck things up. Heat or penetrating oil, hand impact driver, Mayhew shake and bake and the correct sized, six sided, socket not at an angle.
Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
---|---|---|---|
TEKTON 3/8 Inch Drive Impact Screwdriver Set (7-P… | $22.00 | $22.00 | 4.5/5.0 |
^Item&nbsp;Info | Bot&nbsp;Info | Trigger
These are extremely effective in my experience (or something like it).
TEKTON 3/8 Inch Drive Impact Screwdriver Set (7-Piece) | 2905 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_J2XA212XK1BXF1493JTF
Impact screwdriver like this one TEKTON 3/8 Inch Drive Impact Screwdriver Set (7-Piece) | 2905 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS
I've had luck with bolts like this using a manual impact wrench. The impact of the hammer on the wrench helps loosen the bolt. Also, you need this kind of allen wrench.
A manual impact driver should be a part of every owners toolbox.
This tool is very useful for getting those bolts off.
if the iron doesnt budge it, you could try a bigger hammer
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS?th=1
Consider getting an impact screwdriver. They come in handy and are great for small screws/bolts. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS
OP, this is ancient tech, and yea it works very well for stuck/rusted fasteners.
TEKTON 3/8 Inch Drive Impact Screwdriver Set (7-Piece) | 2905 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Q34V5Y8GMXVNAJBR5C5A
I'm not completely sure about your specifics but here goes...
First a turkey baster, to suck some fluid out of the master cylinder, Jack and Jack stands to lift the wheel, lug nut socket and atleast a breaker bar to get it off and a torque wrench to get it on. 3/8 socket set and ratchet, with cheater pipe in case, to remove the caliper, big S hook or zip ties or wire clothes hanger to hold the caliper don't let it hang by the hose!, flat head screwdriver or pry bar to remove the pads and hardware from the bracket, wire brush to clean the bracket and slide pins, then remove the bracket, now look at your rotors before hand and see if there's a screw holding your rotor to the hub, if yes, and you live with snow you'll need a impact driver and hammer to get the screw out, hopefully, sometimes even that won't work and you'll have to melt it with an oxy/acetylene torch, fun times. Then a Big fucking hammer to smack off the rotor. Ok were half way done, wire brush the hubs face a bit if it's rusty, rinse the new rotor with brake cleaner to remove the oils, put the rotor on, reinstall hold down screw if feasible, put bracket back on, put new hardware that came with your brake pads on the bracket (or really clean up the old hardware if you have to) and put brake lube on the "ears" of the new pads (the place where the brake pad touches the bracket hardware) install brake pads in bracket, yes they should be tight whatever you do don't grind them to make it easier to fit (they'll rattle around in the bracket if you do) ok pads are in, put a lil dab on the backside of the inner one (where the caliper piston touches it), and now to squeeze the caliper open, a big C clamp or a variety of specialty tools made for the job (this is why you turkey basted some fluid out of the master, when you squeeze the caliper the fluid goes back up into the master possibly over flowing it) oh and some rear caliper require a twist while being compressed and need either this set or this doodad from Lisle, ok caliper is squished, now take out the slide pins, clean them up and reapply lube, put em back in, put caliper on, goodentight every bolt, and look one more time at the hardware and dust shield, make sure it ain't touching the rotor else it'll scratch, put wheel back on and torque the lugs!
Repeat for the other side and possibly the other axle, then before you start the car, pump the brake pedal, that will push out the calipers to contact the pads, and check the level of fluid in the master cylinder. Then test drive and "bed in" your new brakes. Congrats.
Oh and if your rears are drum brakes don't fuck with them, they take even more special tools and are much less uniformly designed.
If you get stuck YouTube is your friend. In fact you better at least watch ChrisFixs videos first. 1Aautos videos are great too.
So let's make a summary list
Jack and Jack stands, sockets, ratchets, breaker bar, cheater pipe,, torque wrench, pry bar, screwdrivers, impact driver, oxy/fuel torch, wire brush, turkey baster, S hook/zip ties, brake lube, big fucking hammer, C clamp or other piston compressor, maybe brake caliper wind back tool.
This is the proper way to remove that. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_Z7WBXN175J3FC25Q354N?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Impact driver, with a hardened Philips bit, #2 or #3 if you can fit a 3 in there. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Impact+driver&ref=nb_sb_noss_2
Never had much luck with the manual ones, but they do exist and are slightly cheaper than cordless. https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=sxin_9_ac_d_rm?ac_md=2-2-bWFudWFsIGltcGFjdCBkcml2ZXI%3D-ac_d_rm&cv_ct_cx=Impact+driver&dchild=1&keywords=Impact+driver&pd_rd_i=B000NPPATS&pd_rd_r=1a3648...
seems like you're gonna need an impact screwdriver
the kind that you hit on the back with a hammer and the force rotates the driver
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS
something like this
TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rp.ZDb3MSFFNV
And you absolutely need one of these!
TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BpUDDbSQB0RGV
Manual impact driver: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS/
It’s basically a hammer-powered screwdriver. I learned of them restoring an old motorcycle. Every fastener is locked up tight on an old motorcycle.
[](/sbevilthoughts) Why not both!!!
He means this kind
Actually, you did not. The link needs to look like this:
​
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS
TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_CY7.Fb12WWGAA
Something like this first one I pulled up if that can’t get it out then idk what to do
Try using an impact driver, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qzCBDb9KRYWE8