What is Reddit's opinion of TEKTON 1/2 Inch Drive Impact Screwdriver Set (7-Piece) | 2910?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

You don't need a drill. Just notch the head as others have suggested and then use an impact screwdriver.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2910-2-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPUJYE/ref=asc_df_B000NPUJYE?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80333120120409&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid...

If and ONLY if this is an all metal block, there is a thing called an impact driver. You basically hit it with a hammer and the result force and twisting will get screws out very effectively. I would make sure you get a good bit that fits in there well. Also exercise extreme caution, you are hammering on it. Don’t feel like you need to whale on it though.

Torx bits work great.

A manual impact makes them work even better

This is a good place to use an impact screwdriver.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2910-2-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPUJYE/ref=asc_df_B000NPUJYE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309802506143&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15197805983595018394&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvd...

You're welcome.

You have an array of options on trying to turn it once heat is applied. You did good with the groove but hard to get enough force both turn and down.

Have you seen an impact driver like this? You hit it with a hammer to make it turn and hitting it forces the bit into the slot, they work well if you have or can get one.

Or if you have a wide enough screwdriver, push it in place and clamp the vice grips to the shaft of the screwdriver to do the left/right rotation like I described.

This thing has saved my tail several times for severely rusted stuck screws. Tricky to use the first time (twist counterclockwise while hammering). You will need a torx bit too.

TEKTON 1/2 Inch Drive Impact... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPUJYE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Really nice vice, I love the design. The binding nut isn't ideal, but if they made this today it would definitely be in 500$+ territory.

Power tools are horrible for slotted screws. Do yourself a favour and get one of these. You blow on it with a hammer. It won't cam out, and it will loosen it or it will snap away the screw head. Truly does miracles... You should've heated up the jaw screw too, I'm sure it could be removed if the other one went out.

I never use ez-outs, they just make more issues... Also, the knipex plier wrench shouldn't be used as a plier, but I feel bad for lecturing haha

For inserts, the most generic stainless M8 to M6 or M10 to M8 can be lifesavers (or the imperial equivelants).

I'm really curious of how the fixed vise is assembled. It looks like it's in a some sort of a slot, not a single casting. Is it maybe forged steel? And the anvil perhaps as well? If so, it seems like a really awesome design for hammer work... Also, almost looks like you could adjust the play on the moving jaw by pushing down on it from the top.

If you DIY this do yourself a favor and get an impact driver to remove the mirror screws. They are about impossible to get out without stripping the screws otherwise.impact driver

If you do your own brakes and rotors, the age of the rotor (mine was 10yrs old when I did it) may seize on the hub. Use one of these guys to take some of the set screws out. Hammer drill won't do it... Sadly from experience.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPUJYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_CQ09281JC7Y6BSJKV790?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000NPUJYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_Ys.PFbBR4B1SQ

Maybe a friend Of yours has an impact screw driver. These things are incredible for exactly this situation. When you hit it with a hammer, it seats the driver bit deep in the screw while rotating counter clockwise, loosening the screw.

I do the same thing with a long Phillips bit, 1/4 box end wrench to turn the bit counter clockwise while tapping the back of the bit with a hammer. I've gotten really good at this stuff from working on ships, motorcycles, atvs etc over the years where everything is dissimilar metals and rusted

Another way (if you don't have an impact screwdriver):

1) Tekton (Taiwanese) Impact Drivers are ~$15 on Amazon

2) Buy one now and potentially save your future self a shit ton of time/hassle lol

I strongly second the impact screwdriver. They've saved me stripped phillips screws more times than I want to count.

They're not expensive. I've seen them anywhere from $10 - $25. Amazon has this one for $15. It's the first one I saw, but I'm comfortable with the brand name enough to say it's worth the $15.

You could always pick up a hand impact driver like this.

Also you could try trying to turn both directions. Sometimes all you need to do is get it moving.

Also you could use a propane torch to heat the bolt, and give it a few heat cycles.

Or you could use an impact screwdriver https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2910-2-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPUJYE

One of these will get them out. Sucks but wouldn't be the first time I've seen seized screws on new equipment.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPUJYE

There are a few approaches you could take. Do you have a set of Torx sockets? You may be able to tap one in with a hammer, then try to crack them loose. You could try an impact driver. They are not expensive and very useful for motorcycle work. https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2910-2-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPUJYE/ref=asc_df_B000NPUJYE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309802506143&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11064684666533041401&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvd.... A drill and easy outs will work for sure. https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Spiral-Removing-Stripped-Bolts-5pcs/dp/B09XQHM22B/ref=sr_1_5?crid=5DFVNO4DV51E&keywords=easy+out+bolt+extractor+set&qid=1667177086&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI1LjgyIiwicXNhIjoiNS4zOSIsInFzcCI6IjUuMTYifQ%3D%3D&s=h...

It's cheap enough to do yourself that you can do pads and rotors pretty inexpensively. You may need an impact screwdriver if your rotor has screws holding it on. Getting the caliper pistons in on some are difficult, so I picked up one of these caliper compressors to help but you may not need one. Even buying the tools the first time, you'll be cheaper than taking it in. This year I did the brakes on our Ram 1500, Accord, and Can Am side by side(rotors are a bit expensive for that one).

If the head is already bunged up then a socket is NOT going to fit it and it is just going to spin anyways on impact. I have a lot of experience with these and I have never had to drill one. There is always a way.
Having lots of room under the car is a big part of this, so, here it goes :
1. - Using a moto-tool or die grinder with a thin cut-off disc attachment cut a slot directly across the center of whatever you have sticking out LIKE THIS, then use a HAND IMPACT LIKE THIS with the biggest standard bit in the kit to address it. Actually, I had a slightly larger than standard bit that I would use that I made out of another tool-bit, but the kit-bit should get you out of trouble. The impact vibration from impacting IN and twisting instead just straight radial twisting is the charm that unloads the threads here.
2. This takes a lot of room to swing it. Get a plain old plumbers pipe wrench. Adjust it for the tightest grip on the plug that you can get. As you apply torque to it, the jaw will cam tighter for you no matter what size head you have. You don't want to slip off doing this because every time a wrench slips off, a plug head loses it's corners. If it won't budge just from the length of the wrench handle, you will need a cheater bar to slip over the wrench handle to extend it's length. Being careful to keep the wrench head on the plug as much as possible.
With this setup, it is possible to exert enough force to twist the head off leaving the threaded part of the plug in the pan, in which case, it was going to need drilling no matter what you did.
But those are the 2 chances that I can see you have of getting it out of there.
Please let me know you find something else that works that doesn't start an oil fire using heat.

im a bike mechanic by trade , and a gun hobbyist. https://www.amazon.ca/TEKTON-2910-2-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPUJYE/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=impact+screwdriver&qid=1654409587&sprefix=impact+sc%2Caps%2C114&sr=8-8 use one of these on ur tough to get out fasteners and be gentle , soft blow mallet to it they come in 3/8 and 1/2 drive , they work wonders and like trollygag said always use a thread locker or anti seize or even grease, some lube is better than no lube. never put any fastener in dry

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPUJYE/

These hand impact drivers are really handy to have and fairly cheap. A breaker bar and pipe is handy to have, but for something like a rusted bolt, physical shock is often helpful in freeing it. Just hitting the bolt on top with a hammer can also help break bonds formed by rust, but an impact driver is way more effective in my experience.

You should technically use impact sockets with it, but regular sockets work just fine. At least right up until they shatter apart. Wear safety glasses.

Get one of these. I think harbor freight sells them too. TEKTON 1/2 Inch Drive Impact Screwdriver Set (7-Piece) | 2910 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPUJYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_K267BWA58DKKGM8RED9W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Something like this.

I recommend something like this. TEKTON 1/2 Inch Drive Impact Screwdriver Set (7-Piece) | 2910 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPUJYE/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_XXF10TMKNV6R45F5PPT9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

One option could be using an impact screwdriver - https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2910-2-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPUJYE/ref=asc_df_B000NPUJYE/?th=1 - it's got a spring loaded head. You put some rotational pressure on it while you hit the end with a hammer. I use this to remove stubborn bolts. For your hex heads, you'll need a proper hex socket that fits. Since you may have damaged the head on your bolts, you may need to hammer in one that is tight and give it a try. If you have air tools, there's also a tool called "The Shake and Break" https://www.amazon.com/Shake-Break-Impact-Screw-Remover/dp/B000BHJ7JM/ref=asc_df_B000BHJ7JM/ - this is a big step up.

Another idea would be to use a Dremel with a cut off disc to slice a notch in the bolt head for a flat head screwdriver. Use a big, beefy screwdriver. I'd also recommend using the impact screwdriver (above).

Drilling out the bolt could be your last resort. Hopefully you won't get to that point. As far as replacement bolts, you should be able to pick some up at a decent hardware shop or order them from a place like Bernadi:

https://www.bernardiparts.com/Honda/Parts-List.aspx?year=45&product=11&door=3&grade=8&transmission=9&area=2&section=8&assembly=19091

Or if you have a junk/recycler yard nearby, see about finding some on another Ody.

GOOD LUCK!!

 

^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger

 

^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger

 

^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger

Might try one of these

TEKTON 1/2 Inch Drive Impact Screwdriver Set (7-Piece) | 2910 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPUJYE/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_Q2GP6JMDBJW5KXJAC12B

As mentioned Heat, and i would attempt using a manual impact driver

TEKTON 2910 1/2-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000NPUJYE/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_SCD1K10ZRC347FEQE9CG

I recently had the same issue.

First. Reinstall the other nuts, promise that will help reduce the strain on the messed up one "slightly"

Second. I used a hand impact ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPUJYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_ZBW5ANHM8ZHAX12HB4DY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 ) and a bolt extractor set similar to this ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0869BR8MG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_59CY22YJ9GS829FABSYZ ) and a large hammer.

The rounded damaged but came off with no damage to the wheel or stud.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPUJYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_AN65RN6MTT10AMCZSY02?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Buy an impact screwdriver, that'll get it out, and you'll get the satisfaction of smacking something with a hammer

Impact Driver, the ones you hammer. If you don't have one, you are missing out. Let's you put huge torque onto something without worrying about stripping/rounding. Only use a 6 point socket as someone said, a 12 point will almost always round it.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2910-2-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPUJYE/

If you do round it, a giant pair of channel locks will sometimes solve the problem as well.

I'd try one of these with your 1/2" extension on it: https://smile.amazon.com/TEKTON-2910-2-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPUJYE?sa-no-redirect=1

Best bet is to use a hand held impact driver:

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2910-2-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPUJYE

Even better is to get some JIS bits for the driver. The VESSEL 4 piece JIS Impact Driver bits (No.2500) are widely available on e-bay. JIS bits fit much better than Phillips drivers. I've read that you can grind down a Phillips driver and get similar benefits.

For general work on the bike, I highly recommend getting a #2 JIS driver:

https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-Ball-2x100-200mm-Screwdriver/dp/B000TG8OM6

https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-900-Megadora-2x150-Screwdriver/dp/B000TGF8YI

It's eye-opening the first time you use one.

You're garage!

Seriously, this is one of the of the higher value maintenance tasks most people can do at home. It can easily save you $200 and much more if you're also changing rotors. Just use the jack from the car if you don't have a floor jack. The only thing you might need that most people don't have are jack stands (safety first). You might also need some grease for the pins and the back of the pads, but otherwise it's pretty simple tools. You might also need an impact driver if you need to replace the rotors as well (I'm not sure if Yukon rotors are bolted on at OEM). Like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPUJYE

Here is a decent guide: http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/GM-Chevrolet-Tahoe-Front-Brake-Pads-Replacement-Guide/