You lower the temp by 20c by using liquid metal you mean?

I'd never heard of this before, is this the stuff?

https://www.amazon.ca/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B01A9KIGSI/ref=sr\_1\_5?crid=2H6U4FR07CQ4Y&keywords=thermal+paste+liquid+metal&qid=1667335673&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIyLjg1IiwicXNhIjoiMi4zNyIsInFzcCI6IjEuOTEifQ%3D%3D&sprefi...

I didn't have a good experience with Arctic Silver. It didn't do anything for my old AW 15R3. I used Thermal Grizzly's Conductonaut in the end, and very happy with it. Dropped the temps by at least 15 degree C.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B01A9KIGSI/ref=sr\_1\_3?keywords=thermal%2Bgrizzly%2Bconductonaut&qid=1660317843&sprefix=thermal%2Bgri%2Caps%2C58&sr=8-3&th=1

Hey /u/NoctD - thanks for this post. My M16 has recently been pushing nearly 95 (!!!) Celsius, so I made a post and was linked to your thread. I plan on doing the replacing the application soon and had a few questions:

1) How have your temps been since on CPU and GPU? My GPU temps are never too bad so I wasn't sure if I would put liquid metal on it. 2) What liquid metal did you use? I found this - does that look fine? 3) Any other tips?

Thanks!

Pumps are always set at 100% fan speed. If you want lower and more maintenance you can try Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut - Aluminum, Thermal Paste Based on Liquid Metal - Not Suitable for Large Cooling Systems - Liquid Metal Thermal Paste for Cooling The CPU, GPU (1 Gram) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A9KIGSI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_N6AA9CFQT09NJW9D2157 but do your research as it eats through aluminum over time

You need to use thermal grizzly conductonaut. It worked like a charm for me. you can ge it from amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B01A9KIGSI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520263293&sr=8-1&keywords=thermal+grizzly+conductonaut

But make sure you know what you doing. Otherwise you will brick your laptop

Meh, £8.27 with free delivery. Really not very expensive and there's only a risk if you can't spread it properly, even then you just clean it off.

Can even be more of a badass and replace the thermal material with this

Question about liquid metal "paste", found the question on Google. Is this actually true?

"How long does liquid metal thermal paste last?It'll be more effective than your normal thermal paste, that's for sure, but the catch is: Y*ou have to clean it every 2 or 3 months or the liquid metal will start toasting*, making a complete mess in your cooling and processor.

Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut Liquid Metal Thermal Paste, 1g

https://www.amazon.com › Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-Paste"

​

???

Yes, it is indeed the thermal paste and the pads.

I changed the paste and the pads one week ago. I had a Boing 747 in my Cave. After changing paste and pads, it´s almost to quiet - so, it will help.

I bought Thermal Grizzly Paste (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A9KIGSI/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o01\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and Artic Thermal Pads (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UYTTXSM/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o00\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B01A9KIGSI

this is a great liquid metal material

tools:

cutip

isopropyl alcohol

alcohol wipes

silicon sealant: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82180-Maximum-Resistance-Silicone/dp/B000HBIBOY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=BD53V2532H6WTGGDXF2C&th=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=carefultravel-20&linkId=e2876e5fe593724bcce2439f82084dd0

deliding tool: https://www.amazon.com/EG-STARTS-Compatible-Skylake-Opener/dp/B07FM58Z42/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3MU27Y594FDKJ&dchild=1&keywords=rockit+delid+tool&qid=1614176142&s=electronics&sprefix=rockit%2Celectronics%2C145&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&smid=ASYNTYA34W82S&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExUTEyMEQ5QlU3SzQyJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjU0NTM2MkxSQ1UzWldENDVWTyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODk0MjgyRTFVNlRCV0hRT1pPJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

derbauer also has a good delid tool, but it doesn't have something to help you align the ihs when resealing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGrErLzePdw&feature=emb_logo

good video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGrErLzePdw&feature=emb_logo

Which games are you playing competitively? Also you're going to want the fastest RAM you can get. I replaced the motherboard and RAM and took out a 1080 Ti from /u/MrTechSavvy build.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

This RAM is Samsung B-die. XMP profile will do 3600 CAS 16. You could probably overclock it even further. Those high frame rates are going to heavily depend on CPU and RAM frequency. If the games are CS:GO and Overwatch, a 1070 would probably perform the same as the 1080 Ti. The CPU and RAM speed is going to be the bottleneck. Good luck.

Edit: Since you'll want the best overclock for the CPU, you would want to delid the CPU if you are comfortable with that. Here's a couple things you'd need to delid.

Rockit 88 delid tool

Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut

Arctic MX-4

Delid guide - youtube

If you want to keep it really cool use liquid metal just only use a small amount and youtube it first to make sure you understand how it works since it's very conductive, the best thermal paste is rated at about 14mk this is about 74mk so it's extremely efficient at heat transfer and never wears down.

It's not hard to use just don't let it slip off the chip and make sure the heatsink is copper, it absolutely can't be aluminum but most laptop gpus use copper heatsinks because of the size

If your running the thermal paste, it will dry out if your running it in the 70's and 80's for awhile like that

Liquid metal

https://www.amazon.ca/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B01A9KIGSI/?th=1

Kryonaut extreme

This isn't conductive but it's only rated up to 14mk which is still the very top end for a non-conductive thermal paste, it won't burn out at 80 either, if you have been using cheap stuff that's probably why, it's still nowhere near as efficient at heat transfer as liquid metal though

https://www.amazon.ca/Thermal-Grizzly-Performance-Processors-Computers/dp/B08R6QG2CQ/?th=1

https://www.amazon.in/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Liquid-Metal/dp/B01A9KIGSI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=liquid+metal+thermal+paste&qid=1647285309&sprefix=liquid+metal+t%2Caps%2C1006&sr=8-3 found this one

I used this thermal paste. Just search for "PS4" in the questions and answers section and you'll get results of many PS4 owners who used it and had success.

What defines "thermal paste" in your post?

This thermal paste contains some gallium: https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B01A9KIGSI

This one too: https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Performance-Heatsink-Cleanser-Spreader/dp/B07S8VK1NL

And other brands too.

So, why are you so sure that "thermal paste does not contain Gallium" ever?

This is what I bought https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01A9KIGSI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_7QK0GF2GMNFE1RMWRA87?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Maybe try to put on this thermal paste r on it

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A9KIGSI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_NKW9FbKSAMAQK

Yes, as others have stated, you will definitely need to repaste your laptop. I would recommend using Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut aka Liquid Metal.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B01A9KIGSI/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-p13n1_0?crid=2BJPC3KPYCHPA&cv_ct_cx=liquid+metal+thermal+grizzly&dchild=1&keywords=liquid+metal+thermal+grizzly&pd_rd_i=B01A9KIGSI&pd_rd_r=025ce054-204d-4d7e-8ec6-b1d5d2eee900&pd_rd_w=BGPIv&pd_rd_wg=0gCzO&pf_rd_p=5be4970c-0256-4afe-9550-68021bd84e5b&pf_rd_r=BG47R9E7SR2QWYASMZKM&psc=1&qid=1604017250&sprefix=Liquid+meta%2Caps%2C173&sr=1-1-791c2399-d602-4248-afbb-8a79de2d236f

Here is a video of someone opening a Legion 7i. You can follow the same steps and remove the heatsink to repaste by removing the numbered screws in the upper-middle part of the laptop:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwqnM159zPY

You can put lm in anything though.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B01A9KIGSI

You can use liquid metal in anything though, that’s not revolutionary. Put it in your PS2 even.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B01A9KIGSI

This is what I believe to be the best, however...it's not like what you're used to even if you're experienced. You for real need to use care when placing this.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B01A9KIGSI

Are you still getting those high core-to-core differences btw? Like I mentioned before, the only way to solve that is by delidding your CPU and fixing the paste underneath.

If you're interested in that, here's a really informative guide (different CPU, but the idea is exactly the same).

And a cheap delid tool that will let you do it <em>mostly</em> safely.

Simply replacing the paste with a normal paste like your MX-2, and lessening the gap by removing the excess silicone glue will normally at least even out the core differences. Or you can replace paste with liquid metal as shown in the video to get big temp drops in addition.

I mean, you can always purchase this and not have to switch.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B01A9KIGSI

To my knowledge, I've heard Asus not having good thermals compared to Alienware due to lack of proper heat dispersion.

Also how much better is the 10875H compared to the 10750H?

Also note that you can get a better deal ordering from Eluktronics directly - $1999 with 1TB SSD and you get the gaming bundle, compared to your Amazon link that has 512GB SSD and no bundle for $2099.

But the caveat is that if you do order from Eluktronics directly you'll need to wait almost a month for it to ship. And if you want the bundle you can't customize as much - including liquid metal not being available. But you can always repaste it yourself, the paste is cheap.

I placed an order using my link above 3 weeks ago, getting anxious waiting for it.

I see two probable possibilities:

Potential Problem #1: Corrupted Media & Solution

One or more of the media files you have are corrupted. This can happen in many ways, but most commonly it will happen when you're transferring files from one location to another and that transferring is interrupted. For example, if you were transferring media from your SD card or other drive, and you accidentally unplugged it during that transfer. Or your computer shut off while you were editing that clip. Etc...

This happens because

Potential Solution #1: Reimport or Pseudo Record

If you have access to the original media, close Premiere and any other applications using the media you imported, then delete the imported media, then restart your computer for good measure, then reimport the original media.

If that doesn't work, try using a screen capture tool such as QuickTime or Loom (Loom is not high quality, but it does do 1080p) of your screen while playing the media. Then import that media and try to edit it. If it still crashes, your imported media is NOT corrupted and NOT the issue.

&#x200B;

Potential Problem #2: Dried Thermal Paste on Processor

What is thermal paste and why should you care?

Processors get extremely hot, enough to scald you. Screwed on top of processors are heatsinks, a piece of metal that's substantially larger than the processor that absorbs heat and spreads it out through all of the metal to disappate it, thus cooling the processor.

In between that heatsink and process is Thermal Paste, which has consistency similar to toothpaste. That improves the connection between the two because it's especially conductive, often having diamond dust or similar particles in them.

Over time, this dries out and needs to be wiped off and reapplied. For me, using Razer Blade laptops I have to replace it about once every year or two. My laptop is on the majority of the day every day doing processor heavy activities such as video editing.

You can find guides to uncrew your laptop online such as "Razer blade 2020 teardown". It's a little scary if you've not done it before, but anyone can do it with a couple of screw drivers and maybe some fine-pliers or nimble fingers. As long as it's unplugged and you don't pour water directly on it you're almost certainly not going to ruin anything. The plugs for various chords almost always can only be plugged into what they're designed to, so you don't have to worry about plugging something into something else accidentally.

I recommend Kryonaut or Conductonaut thermal paste because it's, arguably, the very best. You can get it for $8-10 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B01A9KIGSI and they provide video tutorials showing how to apply it, but it's just drip and wipe.

It takes me about 15-25 minutes to do this.

Hope this helps!

Thanks to both of you for advice. And for the advise for the 3700X, am not going to miss 1-2% performance. As long as it doesn't bottleneck my EVGA GTX 1070 FTW, will be good to go & save cash for other needs, mainly RAM. All I need would be a MB, CPU & RAM. Some of these MB's has three 4 pin ATX power slots, will have to see what I can go with my EVGA G2 650 in regards to that. I believe there's an extra performance plug there, but not an extra 4 pin ATX cable in the box.

Was considering the mATX route, there's only one brand by ASRock, the ATX boards appear to be more feature filled, I like that some are next-gen Wi-Fi ready, but if there's many negatives, will pass.

Have seen my MB selling for as much as $259 on eBay, depending on how many being listed. I expect it to go for more than the CPU, by which chance now has a copper IHS from Rocket 88, purchased three of these, I want to keep my other Z97 system & one was used on a i7-3770 (wife's computer). Slick as glass and unlike the factory IHS, very little thermal paste is needed paired with my Noctua NH-D15 cooler. Hopefully an enthusiast will appreciate the combo.

It's unfortunate that some would avoid the CPU due to the delid, because during MBAM malware scans of the full system, would be bumping 80C. Now rarely hits 60C. Eventually the thermal paste inside of these CPU's will dry out & when so, will be a one way trip in temp rising, won't boot again. Delidding properly extends the cooling & usable life of the CPU. I've done several CPU's (mostly Ivy Bridge models for others) & have been through three tubes of Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut ,need to order some more. A little goes a long way.

Will clean, reapply liquid metal & test before selling, the internal circuits are coated with liquid tape & so as not to raise the height, the IHS isn't glued in place. I simply gently installed it on the die in the socket, applied light pressure & locked down. System has ran like a champ for nearly two years, running at 4.4GHz on all 4 cores. Can run up to 4.7GHz if desired, above that requires too much voltage for my liking.

I'll pull it out, clean it up good, take plenty of pictures (of the delid too!) & list on eBay with a reserve, am not giving it away. I would sell as an entire system, yet I'd likely lose money on the RAM.

Yes I know Amazon charges a lot & one with a couple items can't get in like on eBay, will check pricing for these modules. Many are still running DDR3 systems & some will refuse to upgrade until they have to. Especially Sandy Bridge owners.

Hopefully more replies will come in!

Cat

Price History

• Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut Thermal Grease Paste 1.0 Gram &nbsp; ^<em>PureLink</em>
  ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.7/5 from 327 valid reviews
  CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]

Price of a Pawn, value of a Queen.
^(Info) ^| [^(Developer)](/user/The_White_Light) ^| [^(Inquiries)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=PriceKnight+Inquiry) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| [^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Fbapcsalescanada%2Fcomments%2Fesqlb4%2Frbuildapcsalescanada_general_discussion_daily%2Fffczswh%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A___%0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)

got it:

1.0 gram thermal grizzly conductonaut:

Amazon + shopandship:

• USD 14.51 or roughly AED 53.3
• Shop & ship for item weighing 0.16 ounces: AED 12 iirc since everyone has flex now.

shipping time: 10-12 days to your address in my experience

Total including tax: around AED 68

On desertcart:

• AED 80
• delivery: AED 25 UNLESS you're buying other items totalling AED 250+

Shipping time: "Get it to UAE by Feb 05 to Feb 27" or anywhere between 11 to 33 days

Total excluding shipping: AED 80 or +17.65% more

Total including shipping: AED 105 or +51.41% more

still looks shit to me

edit: gonna quote you in case you're the guy going around singing praises about jim and russell before hiding their tracks:

> What are you talking about? Desertcart has some fantastic deals. I got thermal grizzly conductonaut "liquid metal" for 50 AED. And a parker ink bottle for 7 AED. Both cost 100 AED and 30 AED on Amazon respectively.

Here it is https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B01A9KIGSI
Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut - 1g (TG-C-001-R) Yep i think it was liquid

Are you intentionally paying a premium to try to get it from someone today or tomorrow? Because it can be had on Amazon for $16...

Here is a link to a post in r/PS4Pro

https://www.reddit.com/r/PS4Pro/comments/8etw4x/changed_tim_to_liquid_metal_on_my_ps4_pro/

&#x200B;

You basically replace the old thermal paste on the APU with one that transfers heat more efficiently which in this case, it's liquid metal. You can probably get the it on Amazon.

If you already are aware about how to open and clean up the console then you should try again but this time change thermal paste to either one of these:

1. https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B01A9KIGSI
2. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CK9SHZG/

Also change the thermal pads for ram modules with better quality ones and you shouldn't hear your PS4 getting loud while playing just any game.

$40 for kit https://rockitcool.myshopify.com

$20 for custom ihs https://rockitcool.myshopify.com/products/copper-ihs-for-lga-1150-1151

$15 thermal grizzly conductonaut liquid metal Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut Thermal Grease Paste - 1.0 Gram https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A9KIGSI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_akHqBb0ZSQC1Z

I saw a 20c drop in my build https://pcpartpicker.com/b/xQBbt6

****please watch videos on the potential dangers of over applying *conductive** liquid metal.******

Fantastic. Great input. I'll get some thermal paste actually that's a good call.

Is this accurate for the colour?

https://i.imgur.com/Y1m1VXW.jpg

EDIT: Just to be clear I take it electrically conductive pastes are out of the question?

Trying to decide between this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thermal-Grizzly-conductonaut-heat-compound/dp/B01A9KIGSI

and this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Grizzly-Kryonaut-compound-compounds-5-5g-250/dp/B00ZJSF5LM/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=SZRKP3AY70WN7RNX0YK6

Conductonaut

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/9FgPxr/corsair-cpu-cooler-cw9060024ww h80iv2 and if money is no object i would think about delidding your cpu and using something like https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B01A9KIGSI which IS conductive so be sure to do it right and watch guides if you do it. you may also want to replace the fans with something like https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ntXfrH/noctua-case-fan-nfa14industrialppc3000pwm or https://pcpartpicker.com/product/LkJkcf/corsair-co-9050040-ww-750-cfm-120mm-fan-co-9050040-ww which are a bit beefier and ofc using after market thermal paste like https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3wLypg/arctic-cooling-thermal-paste-mx2r or https://pcpartpicker.com/product/WtvRsY/antec-thermal-paste-formula7

using itx is cool and easy to move but the thermal challenges get a bit more expensive to deal with. price you got to pay for atx performance in a mini itx.

Kryonaut, Gelid Extreme and MX-4 are all good. Kryonaut is the best one imo (12,5 W/mk, that's thermal conductivity - not to be mistaken with the paste being conductive - it's not) compared to 8.5 on Gelix and MX-4. I also like how easy it is to spread around

Liquid Metal is conductive (Conductonaut). Here's a good video of doing the whole thing (especially the tape part so you don't have to deal with cleaning spillage) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGrErLzePdw

100% worth it. I run all cores @ 5Ghz and sit under 60c when 100% load. I delid and I use Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut on the chip / IHS, and normal ~8.3W/mK on the IHS / Water block (larger surface area)... if I take it apart again, I'm doing the Conductonaut on the IHS.

edit: to answer you question, I have only one printer. I believe it was all of 40ml of resin to print this tool. After UV curing, the standard black resin has 65MPa tensile strength.

Take a nice step back and review what you're saying and what everyone else is saying. It's intolerable conversing with people who seem to be in their own bubble, not reading what others say, and responding as though things that aren't there are there.

Liquid metal is frequently referred to as a thermal paste^1 ^2 ^3, while thermal pads are never, ever, ever referred to as thermal pastes (^(except maybe in clickbait YT titles)). So how is bringing up thermal pads--for god knows what reason--prudent but bringing up liquid metal is somehow "irrelevant"?