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Thermaltake Dr. Power II Automated Power Supply Tester Oversized LCD for All Power Supplies - AC0015 ,Black?
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This is what he means.
It's about 30 bucks and will make sure a faulty cable pinout will only blow a PSU (worst case) rather then your whole system.
Check out /r/pcsleeving for all your tutorial needs.
To be honest, not sure what it is but if you just got it from NZXT, why not just contact them?
Edit: will say it could be the PSU. Sounds like when it gets under load, things crash. They sell PSU testers. I just got one to check mine and it’s a super easy/useful thing to have on hand. This is what I got:
Thermaltake Dr. Power II Automated Power Supply Tester Oversized LCD for All Power Supplies - AC0015 https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO
I would still contact NZXT and see what they say though
Sounds like you're on the right track, but, there's only one way to be certain.
First make sure it’s clean inside so you rule out temperature issues. If it persists I’d say check that power supply. If your power supply has issues this thing will find them.
Thermaltake Dr. Power II Automated Power Supply Tester Oversized LCD for All Power Supplies - AC0015 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005F778JO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J594FZRA1PEWG37ZEB4K
This, my good sir...will give you all the confirmation you need and save you many headaches in the future.
If you have the means I highly recommend one of these, will save you time/money in the future.
More than likely the power supply. Main board/ GPU caps don’t usually fail so spectacularly.
Thermaltake Dr. Power II Automated Power Supply Tester Oversized LCD for All Power Supplies -
AC0015 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005F778JO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_T3PZR33FEMVHMT6W0AQT
RMA that card while you can, I’ve had multiple GPUs that have taken out power supplies before.
Thermaltake Dr. Power II Automated Power Supply Tester Oversized LCD for All Power Supplies - AC0015 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005F778JO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_T3PZR33FEMVHMT6W0AQT
Ok, next I would check the power supply. This was the best investment I've made in 30+ years in pc repairs and building my own rigs.
Yes a multimeter will work. You have to run a bypass on the 24 pin so that it will turn on.
Then you have to know the pin configuration on the component side and test each pin for 3,5,12v.
Or you can buy this
Unplug the computer from the wall. Press and hold the power button for 5 seconds. Plug it back in to the wall. Attempt to power it on.
Short of getting something like https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO , swap out the PSU and see if it boots up.
Absolutely play that game again!
A game that demands alot from a GPU can tax the shit out of our power supplies. While there are a whole bunch of possibilities that would be my first guess. If you can manage it, you can find a power supply tester on amazon for under $40 that will be a godsend for years to come.
Replace CR2032 CMOS battery and clear CMOS by moving then resetting the CMOS jumper (or press clear CMOS button if MOBO has one), then try rebooting. Many motherboards flake out if CMOS battery voltage drops below 2.7 VDC. This is the most cost effective/least time consuming function to perform in the event of failure. While it's off, blow it out w/an air compressor if you can. Any fans being blown out should be held still with your hand for 2 reasons: 1) Making fans spin by blowing air on them creates current and can back-feed destroying capacitors and chips in the circuit. 2) High RPM's coupled with high air pressure can snap fan blades then you're super fucked.
Beyond that getting a good power supply tester would be my next step. Below is has been a workhorse for me and an indispensable tool for finding failures. If the power supply has problems this thing will find them and it's cheap. Good luck...we're all counting on you.
They sell testers I Will will drop a link to the one I have but if you have access to another computer it’s free and pretty easy to sub in a spare power supply.
Well given everything you've done & the lack of beep codes says it's likely either the motherboard or PSU. Bad ram can stop post but it shouldn't keep the mobo from throwing a few beeps at you, likewise for the CPU. Unstable voltage from the PSU that doesn't nuke the system can cause close to anything, so it could be what happened during the crash.
Unstable power from an actively bad PSU is worse than one that doesn't turn on, can check with a multimeter and a paperclip, but I'd spend $12 to $35 on an ATX power supply tester; they're nice to have. If the PSU is good, can think about rest of the system.
Yeah I have one of these https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO
I plugged in the 24 pin connector and the CPU connector, and the voltage readings seemed fine.
Tried unplugging the SSD and seems to have the same result. This time it just rebooted part-way through the Linux setup sequence and then loaded the BIOS.
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO?th=1
Essentially you plug your PSU in and it tells you if there is an error. I once blew a cheaper PSU tester, but I'd rather blow a cheap tester than $$$ of computer components.
In these scenarios, the next step I go to is testing the power supply.
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/
You can test and prove every cable/connector in the entire system. Also, have you taken a good flash light and checked all of the capacitors on the motherboard to verify that none are leaking/bulging?
The PSU has short circuit protection and will shutdown if detected.
If you are concerned, either send it back or get yourself a PSU tester like this one and check the PSU yourself, using the cables that came with the PSU.
You plug the cables in to the tester, so effectively testing both.
Something like this.
Well there's PSU testers you can buy for that purpose. Other than that I am unsure short of putting it into an entirely different computer. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005F778JO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=101E02BC34IN0&coliid=IRL5JWJC1GMC0
I would strip it down to the bare minimum (cpu, cpu fan, 1 stick of ram) and see if it powers on. If it does then you know it's one of the 'extras'. If it doesn't then 90%+ it's the PSU.
Bro, going through the same situation more or less. I've been getting random reboots as well. I never cared to worry about it because the system would come right back up and in general they didn't cause me any harm... Except about a week ago that is. It didn't want to come back up for about 16 hours.
I have one of these in a drawer... Fucking ax760i failed every god damned rail while it was in it's 'failure mode'. Clean as a whistle when it's 'working'. Shit is frustrating and I feel your pain OP. Thankfully me sending a few pictures of the 'failed screen' on the PSU tester made corsair instantly accept my RMA. Now I just have to hope that the replacement they send won't have any issues.
Everytime I've had a PSU do that it was on the out. But, there could also be some kind of short. In the past I've been able to get things running by taking the computer apart, blowing it down, and putting it back together. It's obviously kind of miserable to do that, but sometimes it works. I've found this tester very useful as well.
What speed is your RAM running at? 3000 is really high for Haswell-e, which kind of has a crap memory controller for overclocking. (which would be anything over 2133)
Humm, is the power button in the back turned to US mode, does it have one? Paperclip test don't prove nothing only this thing does https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/
Something not hooked up properly? You missing something man those parts ain't dead no way
I might want to use a PSU tester or the "paper clip test" to make sure nothing was shorted and causing the PSU to go into overcurrent protection.
That is if it's the PSU clicking. If that's just you pressing the button and nothing is working, then I would want to troubleshoot the button on the case.
How old is the PSU? The CX models from Corsair are pretty well known for not being very good, and the older generation ones are downright abysmal. I don't think having a PSU tester on hand is such a bad thing, and I have used this one to help troubleshoot in the past.
Well first off can we get a PCPP table of your original parts and table for your new parts?
I don't know how interested you are about being able to fix computers but you can buy certain hardware to test certain parts to see if they are broken or not. Like for instance http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1427927645&sr=1-1&keywords=PSU+tester
But besides that you can transfer your windows 7 key to a new motherboard. If you run into problems you can simply call the automated line, provide the installation ID, it will ask a question (say zero), and it will then provide you another long series of letters/numbers to activate your windows.
Now I highly recommend doing a fresh install (clean install). If you don't you might run into problems.
Well don't you have a lot going on haha. With that last sentence though to me it sounds like your PSU is dying but you never know. Do you have spare parts that you can swap out to help single out the problem?
I don't know how much you want to repair computers but there are products/hardware out there to test certain things like just for an example http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1428129169&sr=1-1&keywords=PSU+tester
Hopefully someone else could comment and give you more trouble shooting steps to help figure out exactly what the issue is.
Most Seasonic PSUs have hybrid fan mode so it could be powered on but the PSU fan might not be moving.
Do you have a PSU tester? It's something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO
Also, what pump are you using? The usual D5 PWM pumps have 2 different connections. One is a SATA/ molex line for power, and another is the PWM header. In order to do leak testing, the PWM header has to be disconnected and the power line connected to PSU.
What controller are you using? An Aquacomputer Quadro/ Octo? Those won't work out-of-the-box until you get into Windows and gets it recognized through the USB interface. How many fans were you trying to power with the controller? It is possible that a bad controller pulled too much current from the PSU and popped something in there.
Finally, Seasonic PSUs are known to be pretty hardy. If you had a short/ bad cable, sometimes it won't blow itself up. It just refuses to power on. I've made cables where I flipped the 12V and GND on the 8-pin EPS and my PSU just didn't want to power on. Same goes for that one time I used a Dell 6-pin peripheral SATA cable on a new Seasonic PSU. Just make sure you use the cables that came with the Seasonic, ok?
Dr power. It will last you a lifetime.
Thermaltake Dr. Power II Automated Power Supply Tester Oversized LCD for All Power Supplies - AC0015 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005F778JO/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_fabc_rDd1Fb2XF5AT9
PSU Testers are a thing. Might not cover something like stress testing, but should be able to tell you more basic info.
I use this to test PSUs
May need different levels of voltage, that’s why I have one of these (not this exact one though)
Sounds like PSU is culprit.
Thermaltake Dr. Power II Automated Power Supply Tester Oversized LCD for All Power Supplies - AC0015 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005F778JO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J594FZRA1PEWG37ZEB4K
Get one of these and test your power supply.
Thermaltake Dr. Power II Automated Power Supply Tester Oversized LCD for All Power Supplies - AC0015 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005F778JO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_B1D4B9CWCA2Q2N8M72AF
Thermaltake Dr. Power II Automated Power Supply Tester Oversized LCD for All Power Supplies - AC0015 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005F778JO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_T3PZR33FEMVHMT6W0AQT
If it were me (and I've made my share of mistakes too) I would get a good power supply tester as there's a strong possibility of it having gone bad. A power supply tester can save you many headaches / hours troubleshooting this problem and many more in the future. One that I've used for years has been an invaluable tool and is relatively inexpensive.
If a PC power supply has problems this thing will find them, or you could simply buy a new power supply to try it and if it doesn't fix the problem just return it. Keep us posted if you need more help, good luck!
Possibly or the PSU or both or neither.
He was not supplying the power balanced across cables, which can only handle so much output each.
You can try different cables if its modular, but that is a long shot. I would test that power supply before you keep using it: https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO
If the power supply test good especially on the PSU connectors, then there is a chance the PSU is toast.
As you said, and according to this article (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_good_signal), 100 - 500 should be good.
I have no idea what tester you are using so I don't know what the beeping means.
This is my personal and favorites PSU tester: https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/
Check the manual of your tester, but you are probably fine.
This is the power supply tester I use. Very handy to have around, although I can't make a logical case for the new PSU being bad.
Then it's likely you have a bad piece of equipment. Now you need to start swapping parts. If you have a friend with an LGA-1200 motherboard you can swap the CPU. The RAM can be tested in pretty much any DDR4 motherboard. The power supply is easy to test with a multimeter. Power it on and check the voltages, 12V, 5V, 3.3V. Better yet get a PSU tester.
I recommend the Dr. Power
But a cheap version will work as well:
Also, I know it seems daunting, but this is the fun of computer diagnostics. The mystery, the reduction of what could be wrong down to what MUST be wrong.
Also, please answer the questions below, it can REALLY help a lot:
Is this a brand new setup? Has it ever worked, ever booted up to the BIOS?
Can you list your parts exactly so that we can make sure they are all compatible? Do you perhaps have an incompatible CPU, RAM, etc. The error light on the motherboard is showing CPU, so it's a good place to focus on that.
I have seen a good amount of people needing an RMA of their motherboard after getting the CPU error light on this motherboard. So if you have to RMA something, start there.
Grab this and test your PSU:
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO
Basically you can hook a lot of the cables up to the tester and it will test it to make sure everything is in working order. Very useful tool.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005F778JO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rWJnFb23YE8GR
You can also buy a PSU tester like this one
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Dr-Power-AC0015-alimentaci%C3%B3n/dp/B005F778JO
I have one and it works great.
If you have one or can get one, this is certainly a valid way to go. ;) The Dr. Power is an all in one that lets you test everything at once.
https://www.newegg.com/thermaltake-ac0015/p/N82E16899109003
as examples for price. Testing:
https://www.legitreviews.com/thermaltake-dr-power-ii-atx-power-supply-tester-review_1756
I like this thing BC it lets me test a PSU in seconds, and I can even check the individual connectors separately.
You could get a PSU Tester or something similar
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO
This will tell you if the expected voltage on the different rails is present.
You can get a PSU tester. It's a good thing to have around. I have a Thermaltake Dr Power II. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005F778JO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_GfBFWC1pqxn2a There are cheaper ones, but I really like that one.
See if you can POST after changing the battery. If not, you may need to try a new power supply.
If you want to test your PSU first: https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/
Well, its certainly not a bad PSU (model-wise), but its possible something could be wrong inside it. You would need to test it, either with a tester, or with an alternate PSU.
Tester: https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/
If you haven't already, try to open your case, inspect all the cables and cords carefully. Make sure nothing is touching your fans or poking against any electronics. Also, make sure you are using zip-ties or velcro for cable management. NEVER use twist-ties, they have an aluminum core in them.
Give your PC a good dust-out with air cans. Once you are done, recheck for the noise. If there is ANY concern that its the power supply, do not keep using it until you have it tested or test it yourself. Some PC shops and Micro Centers can test power supplies but I don't know if they do it for free or charge.
A psu tester is another option and is probably going to be easier to use.
I use a Dr. Power II and it does a great job.
Does this happen with different games or just one?
The symptoms on the surface seem to suggest a GPU (hardware or drivers) is crashing and windows is resetting the display drivers. When windows does this it does not always succeed and takes the entire PC with it.
If temps all are ok, make sure the card is seated correctly (take it out and put it back in and pay attention to make sure everything is in all the way). Also make sure the PCIE power supply connectors are properly connected.
Also a bad power supply could do this, You can test for this using a power supply tester or a Multi meter.
I didn't notice the kernel power 41.
> "The kernel power event ID 41 error occurs when the computer is shut down, or it restarts unexpectedly. When a computer that is running Windows starts, a check is performed to determine whether the computer was shut down cleanly. If the computer was not shut down cleanly, a Kernel Power Event 41 message is generated."
This makes be think more inline with a bad PSU or Power related. Most quality PSU have a voltage out of range safety feature that if the output voltage is to low or high it will automatically turn off to prevent damage to the hardware.
--edit--
me english bad, me fix, me make english good.
also the ATX v2.2 voltage specs are +/- 5% on postive voltages and +/- 10% on negative voltages. ATX12V Power Supply Design Guide Version 2.2 section 3.2.1
| Output | Range | Min. | Nom. | Max. |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| +12VDC | +/- 5% | +11.40 | +12.00 | +12.60 |
| +5VDC | +/- 5% | +4.75 | +5.00 | +5.25 |
| +3.3VDC | +/- 5% | +3.14 | +3.30 | +3.47 |
| -12VDC | +/- 10% | +10.80 | -12.00 | -13.20 |
Hope this info helps
Well, there are PSU testers like https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO
It shouldn't take 6 hours to install an OS. Check the RAM. Look up the manual for the motherboard to see what slot it should be in. Test that one first than the all the others.
http://askubuntu.com/questions/343114/how-to-check-for-errors-in-ram-via-linux
If this fails and you have a spare motherboard than put the parts into the motherboard and test again.
You could also look into getting tools to diagnose certain parts.
http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/ref=pd_cp_pc_3
http://www.amazon.com/Computer-POST-Board-Diagnostic-Analyzer/dp/B005EJMO56/ref=pd_bxgy_e_img_z
Now for your situation I highly doubt the PSU or even the PCI is causing the problem. You would had stated some sort of power failure or stated you had a GPU in the system.
I think I have been facing the same issue here for a while but have just been in denial about the power supply being the culprit. As i have been in another country for a while, I haven't been able to diagnose my system correctly.
I suspect my power supply is failing me as well (Corsair HX1000) its around 5 years old, you may want to invest in one of these:
OR, just get one of those that measures power draw from the wall.
Try stressing your system by runnning a benchmark as well.
Please do post back, i'm interested to know your findings.
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