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This is what he means.
It's about 30 bucks and will make sure a faulty cable pinout will only blow a PSU (worst case) rather then your whole system.
Check out /r/pcsleeving for all your tutorial needs.
They sell testers I Will will drop a link to the one I have but if you have access to another computer it’s free and pretty easy to sub in a spare power supply.
Well given everything you've done & the lack of beep codes says it's likely either the motherboard or PSU. Bad ram can stop post but it shouldn't keep the mobo from throwing a few beeps at you, likewise for the CPU. Unstable voltage from the PSU that doesn't nuke the system can cause close to anything, so it could be what happened during the crash.
Unstable power from an actively bad PSU is worse than one that doesn't turn on, can check with a multimeter and a paperclip, but I'd spend $12 to $35 on an ATX power supply tester; they're nice to have. If the PSU is good, can think about rest of the system.
Yeah I have one of these
I plugged in the 24 pin connector and the CPU connector, and the voltage readings seemed fine.
Tried unplugging the SSD and seems to have the same result. This time it just rebooted part-way through the Linux setup sequence and then loaded the BIOS.
Essentially you plug your PSU in and it tells you if there is an error. I once blew a cheaper PSU tester, but I'd rather blow a cheap tester than $$$ of computer components.
In these scenarios, the next step I go to is testing the power supply.
You can test and prove every cable/connector in the entire system. Also, have you taken a good flash light and checked all of the capacitors on the motherboard to verify that none are leaking/bulging?
The PSU has short circuit protection and will shutdown if detected.
If you are concerned, either send it back or get yourself a PSU tester like this one and check the PSU yourself, using the cables that came with the PSU.
You plug the cables in to the tester, so effectively testing both.
Something like this.
Well there's PSU testers you can buy for that purpose. Other than that I am unsure short of putting it into an entirely different computer. [link]
I would strip it down to the bare minimum (cpu, cpu fan, 1 stick of ram) and see if it powers on. If it does then you know it's one of the 'extras'. If it doesn't then 90%+ it's the PSU.
Bro, going through the same situation more or less. I've been getting random reboots as well. I never cared to worry about it because the system would come right back up and in general they didn't cause me any harm... Except about a week ago that is. It didn't want to come back up for about 16 hours.
I have one of these in a drawer... Fucking ax760i failed every god damned rail while it was in it's 'failure mode'. Clean as a whistle when it's 'working'. Shit is frustrating and I feel your pain OP. Thankfully me sending a few pictures of the 'failed screen' on the PSU tester made corsair instantly accept my RMA. Now I just have to hope that the replacement they send won't have any issues.
Everytime I've had a PSU do that it was on the out. But, there could also be some kind of short. In the past I've been able to get things running by taking the computer apart, blowing it down, and putting it back together. It's obviously kind of miserable to do that, but sometimes it works. I've found this tester very useful as well.
What speed is your RAM running at? 3000 is really high for Haswell-e, which kind of has a crap memory controller for overclocking. (which would be anything over 2133)
Humm, is the power button in the back turned to US mode, does it have one? Paperclip test don't prove nothing only this thing does [link]
Something not hooked up properly? You missing something man those parts ain't dead no way
I might want to use a PSU tester or the "paper clip test" to make sure nothing was shorted and causing the PSU to go into overcurrent protection.
That is if it's the PSU clicking. If that's just you pressing the button and nothing is working, then I would want to troubleshoot the button on the case.
How old is the PSU? The CX models from Corsair are pretty well known for not being very good, and the older generation ones are downright abysmal. I don't think having a PSU tester on hand is such a bad thing, and I have used this one to help troubleshoot in the past.
Well first off can we get a PCPP table of your original parts and table for your new parts?
I don't know how interested you are about being able to fix computers but you can buy certain hardware to test certain parts to see if they are broken or not. Like for instance [link]
But besides that you can transfer your windows 7 key to a new motherboard. If you run into problems you can simply call the automated line, provide the installation ID, it will ask a question (say zero), and it will then provide you another long series of letters/numbers to activate your windows.
Now I highly recommend doing a fresh install (clean install). If you don't you might run into problems.
Well don't you have a lot going on haha. With that last sentence though to me it sounds like your PSU is dying but you never know. Do you have spare parts that you can swap out to help single out the problem?
I don't know how much you want to repair computers but there are products/hardware out there to test certain things like just for an example [link]
Hopefully someone else could comment and give you more trouble shooting steps to help figure out exactly what the issue is.
Most Seasonic PSUs have hybrid fan mode so it could be powered on but the PSU fan might not be moving.
Do you have a PSU tester? It's something like this:
Also, what pump are you using? The usual D5 PWM pumps have 2 different connections. One is a SATA/ molex line for power, and another is the PWM header. In order to do leak testing, the PWM header has to be disconnected and the power line connected to PSU.
What controller are you using? An Aquacomputer Quadro/ Octo? Those won't work out-of-the-box until you get into Windows and gets it recognized through the USB interface. How many fans were you trying to power with the controller? It is possible that a bad controller pulled too much current from the PSU and popped something in there.
Finally, Seasonic PSUs are known to be pretty hardy. If you had a short/ bad cable, sometimes it won't blow itself up. It just refuses to power on. I've made cables where I flipped the 12V and GND on the 8-pin EPS and my PSU just didn't want to power on. Same goes for that one time I used a Dell 6-pin peripheral SATA cable on a new Seasonic PSU. Just make sure you use the cables that came with the Seasonic, ok?
Dr power. It will last you a lifetime.
Thermaltake Dr. Power II Automated Power Supply Tester Oversized LCD for All Power Supplies - AC0015 [link]
This is the power supply tester I use. Very handy to have around, although I can't make a logical case for the new PSU being bad.
Then it's likely you have a bad piece of equipment. Now you need to start swapping parts. If you have a friend with an LGA-1200 motherboard you can swap the CPU. The RAM can be tested in pretty much any DDR4 motherboard. The power supply is easy to test with a multimeter. Power it on and check the voltages, 12V, 5V, 3.3V. Better yet get a PSU tester.
I recommend the Dr. Power
But a cheap version will work as well:
Also, I know it seems daunting, but this is the fun of computer diagnostics. The mystery, the reduction of what could be wrong down to what MUST be wrong.
Also, please answer the questions below, it can REALLY help a lot:
Is this a brand new setup? Has it ever worked, ever booted up to the BIOS?
Can you list your parts exactly so that we can make sure they are all compatible? Do you perhaps have an incompatible CPU, RAM, etc. The error light on the motherboard is showing CPU, so it's a good place to focus on that.
I have seen a good amount of people needing an RMA of their motherboard after getting the CPU error light on this motherboard. So if you have to RMA something, start there.
Grab this and test your PSU:
Basically you can hook a lot of the cables up to the tester and it will test it to make sure everything is in working order. Very useful tool.
You can also buy a PSU tester like this one
I have one and it works great.
If you have one or can get one, this is certainly a valid way to go. ;)
The Dr. Power is an all in one that lets you test everything at once.
as examples for price.
I like this thing BC it lets me test a PSU in seconds, and I can even check the individual connectors separately.
You could get a PSU Tester or something similar
This will tell you if the expected voltage on the different rails is present.
You can get a PSU tester. It's a good thing to have around. I have a Thermaltake Dr Power II. [link] There are cheaper ones, but I really like that one.
There are PSU testers on Amazon.
See if you can POST after changing the battery. If not, you may need to try a new power supply.
If you want to test your PSU first: https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/
Well, its certainly not a bad PSU (model-wise), but its possible something could be wrong inside it. You would need to test it, either with a tester, or with an alternate PSU.
If you haven't already, try to open your case, inspect all the cables and cords carefully. Make sure nothing is touching your fans or poking against any electronics. Also, make sure you are using zip-ties or velcro for cable management. NEVER use twist-ties, they have an aluminum core in them.
Give your PC a good dust-out with air cans. Once you are done, recheck for the noise. If there is ANY concern that its the power supply, do not keep using it until you have it tested or test it yourself. Some PC shops and Micro Centers can test power supplies but I don't know if they do it for free or charge.
A psu tester is another option and is probably going to be easier to use.
It seems like it is ok. One good way to test the power output of a PSU is with a tester. One like this is nice to have on hand.
Or you could use software, such as HWiNFO. It can monitor your PSU as well as other aspects of your machine.
I use a Dr. Power II and it does a great job.
Does this happen with different games or just one?
The symptoms on the surface seem to suggest a GPU (hardware or drivers) is crashing and windows is resetting the display drivers. When windows does this it does not always succeed and takes the entire PC with it.
If temps all are ok, make sure the card is seated correctly (take it out and put it back in and pay attention to make sure everything is in all the way). Also make sure the PCIE power supply connectors are properly connected.
Also a bad power supply could do this, You can test for this using a power supply tester or a Multi meter.
I didn't notice the kernel power 41.
> "The kernel power event ID 41 error occurs when the computer is shut down, or it restarts unexpectedly. When a computer that is running Windows starts, a check is performed to determine whether the computer was shut down cleanly. If the computer was not shut down cleanly, a Kernel Power Event 41 message is generated."
This makes be think more inline with a bad PSU or Power related. Most quality PSU have a voltage out of range safety feature that if the output voltage is to low or high it will automatically turn off to prevent damage to the hardware.
me english bad, me fix, me make english good.
also the ATX v2.2 voltage specs are +/- 5% on postive voltages and +/- 10% on negative voltages. ATX12V Power Supply Design Guide Version 2.2 section 3.2.1
Hope this info helps
Well, there are PSU testers like [link]
It shouldn't take 6 hours to install an OS. Check the RAM. Look up the manual for the motherboard to see what slot it should be in. Test that one first than the all the others.
If this fails and you have a spare motherboard than put the parts into the motherboard and test again.
You could also look into getting tools to diagnose certain parts.
Now for your situation I highly doubt the PSU or even the PCI is causing the problem. You would had stated some sort of power failure or stated you had a GPU in the system.
I think I have been facing the same issue here for a while but have just been in denial about the power supply being the culprit. As i have been in another country for a while, I haven't been able to diagnose my system correctly.
I suspect my power supply is failing me as well (Corsair HX1000) its around 5 years old, you may want to invest in one of these:
OR, just get one of those that measures power draw from the wall.
Try stressing your system by runnning a benchmark as well.
Please do post back, i'm interested to know your findings.