What is Reddit's opinion of TICONN 240PCS T-Tap Wire Connectors, Self-Stripping Quick Splice Electrical Wire Terminals, Insulated Male Quick Disconnect Spade Terminals Assortment Kit with Storage Case (240)?

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You might want to make sure your state law would allow you to run an LED light bar on the road.

That aside, can you just use something like these - https://www.amazon.com/TICONN-Connectors-Self-Stripping-Electrical-Disconnect/dp/B07MLPBPW5/ -- and tap into the high beam power that goes into one of the headlights? I don't know which is which, but if you have a multimeter and someone to pull the high beams on it should be easy to find.

EDIT2: Finished Tutorial: https://www.reddit.com/r/CloneHero/comments/efomm8/mechanical_keys_fret_replacement_mod_tutorial/

Upvote or reply to this comment if this is something you want to see happen. I would also receive and mod guitars then ship them back to you if you'd rather have me do it.

EDIT:

I have ordered some Wire Taps which will be here on the 10th. Expect a tutorial as early as Wednesday December 11th. Parts List so you can order too:

5 Mechanical Keys $10 https://novelkeys.xyz/products/novelkeys-x-kailh-low-profile-heavys?variant=3747977625640 I just bought one 10 pack of orange low-profile heavys. I originally used blue but they are quite loud and can be heard over the music.

8 Wire T-Taps 22 AWG $10 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MLPBPW5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

8 Wires $7 These are 24 AWG but have a nicely sized connector to crimp onto the mechanical key leads. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EV70C78/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

8 Female 22 AWG Spade Connectors $7 https://www.amazon.com/Yueton-100pcs-Fully-Insulated-Disconnects-Terminal/dp/B01823DKVM/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=female+spade+connectors+18+22&qid=1575869334&sr=8-4

1 Crimping Tool (Either Titan Crimping Tool, or crude pliers).

1 Pair of Scissors or a Knife

This will provide you with enough electrical parts to convert a dozen guitars (except additional mechanical keys required). You may be able to buy in smaller quantities at a local hardware/electrical store but YMMV. Lastly, I am not an electrical engineer so expect hobby grade finished product. Thank you for your patience while I get a tutorial together. The tutorial will be for a Les Paul Guitar with the detachable neck. I assume most guitars will follow a similar process but this will be by FAR the easiest to mod due to the ease of positioning the mechanical keys.

To avoid running long wires and wasting USB or DC ports, I tapped into the wires in the powered mirror, as well as the rear lights.

I used t-taps (aka wire tap connectors) I bought from Amazon, then used a 12V to 5V USB converter and a very short USB cable.

https://www.amazon.com/TICONN-Connectors-Self-Stripping-Electrical-Disconnect/dp/B07MLPBPW5

https://www.amazon.com/Agile-Shop-Converter-Module-Convert-Adapter/dp/B07JHH294R

Except we’re required to-at no extra charge-to hope that we get paid for the original time billed and not back-flagged!

It’s called “writing your story”, and is something that you have to get good at if you do any diagnosis work.

Example: I had an inventory lot Tundra that wouldn’t start on the literal opposite side of the dealership! I went out with my jump box and a battery tester. Barely cranked with the jump box on it, put out 2.3 volts, and 2 CCA. Threw a new battery in it, now cranks but no starting!Also brought my test light/continuity tester with me (Power Probe 3) to CYA as didn’t feel like hoofing a half mile to my bay and toolbox and then back again for additional testing tools that might be needed. Check the injector and pump fuses for power, find no power to fuel injector fuse and swap blown fuse with DOME Light fuse.

Now truck starts and kinda runs but all sorts of crap is not working or mysteriously intermittent! No power windows, seat adjustment, rear lights, instrument cluster, and the list goes on.

At this point I’ve spent maybe 45 minutes not counting the trips back and forth from the ass end of the used car lot to the service area for the new battery and my tools.

Congrats I just made 1.2 hrs on the no start diagnosis, battery install…now I have to spend more time writing this up and requesting additional diagnostic time.

Get another hour approved and since I had already limped the vehicle to the parking area next to the service entrance by my bay, limped it inside and got back to work with the test light.

More testing, replacing 2 blown fuses, and reading of wiring diagrams ensues. Pop the instrument panel off above the interior fuse/junction box/main body ECU to test the 2 power wires supplying it to find leftover aftermarket bullshit installed by prior owner spliced into the factory wiring with what may have been T-taps. These lovely pieces of annoyance “save you the trouble” of doing it correctly by clamping around the wiring insulation and piercing/cutting into them exposing the bare metal inside to eventual damage from vibration, corrosion, etc.

In this case for whatever reason, someone had removed the wiring addition bits…and then left the 2 exposed, damaged and 1 broken wire there. As well as a completely useless/pointless small aftermarket box zip tied to the knee bolster support.

And the damaged wiring had probably been rubbing against itself for who knows how long slowly sending power surges/spikes all through the system.

Take pictures and tape up the 2 damaged wires that aren’t completely broken yet, then splice a jumper wire with tape into the one that is broken and still no power!

Recheck fuses and find another blown one. Replace that and recheck for power…still no power for 75% of the block and noticed also no alternator charging! At this point rechecking the diagram lets me see that all the unpowered ones and the alternator are supplied by the mega fusible link block bolted into the engine fuse box containing a 180 amp, 150 amp, and other assorted fusible links while the few that have power are supplied by a smaller 40amp fuse in the engine fuse box.

Writing all this out afterwards, with fuse listings, wiring colors, connector locations and steps I followed took about 2 hrs, while actually doing the work took 45 minutes!!!!!

Someone else got the job of removing and reinstalling the smoked fusible link block as I had never done it before and the boss would rather not have any issues with the repair from my learning to do it the first time.

You can always get something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MLPBPW5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Ok, so it turns out my suspicions were correct and everything worked. I have not installed the camera yet but I can confirm that I've found a switched 12V wire in the 24-pin A-pillar connector. It was difficult to take pictures but you can see what I did here.

Basically, I followed the manual I linked before up to step 5a. I didn't need to use anything to pry it off, the panels just came off by hand. Just be careful of the airbag, I disconnected the negative terminal of my battery while removing panels just in case but I had to put it back on to test the connection with my multimeter.

Also, be careful of the black plastic "tether" (small springy piece) that holds the panel to the A-pillar. According to the manual, it's supposed to be replaced with a new one, but I just managed to clip it back on to the panel when I was reassembling everything. It's a little difficult to turn the head/key of the tether through the slot, but you should be able to get it. Just take note of the green clip piece that can come off so you know where to put it when reassembling.

After removing the panels and rubber seal, I shoved a green dupont wire (male connector) into the darker green wire on the connector. In the manual, the red wire from the 10-pin mirror harness is the 12V switched source, and it says that the red wire is spliced to the green wire of the 24-pin connector, so that's how I knew which one to test without testing each of the 24 pins. I plugged my battery back in, and took my multimeter's black lead to a bolt on the chassis by the door hinge and the red lead to the other end (also male) of the dupont wire I just shoved in. With the ignition off, this should read 0 volts. I pressed the push start button once, and it still read 0V, but when I pressed it a second time (when the AC and screen comes on), it read 12V. I forgot to test with ignition on unfortunately, but it should still be 12V. This means this method should work for getting parking mode on the dash cam.

Now I'm just debating what to do for the dash cam for a more permanent or at least more secure install. I think I'll just get this to splice it for a semi-permanent conncetion (can remove the dash cam hardwire later, but the splice will stay on the green wire). Since you're leasing, I'm not sure I'd recommend splicing since you're basically cutting into the wire and adding a permanent modification. I'd probably suggest doing something similar to what I did with the dupont wire. Attach a dupont male header (crimp or solder) to the yellow dash cam ACC wire, and shove it into the green wire's slot on the 24-pin connector. Tape it on to insulate and secure it until the lease is over, then you can easily remove it and no one will know it was there.

Last thing I'm unsure about is whether or not I need a fuse for the yellow wire just in case. It shouldn't be drawing any power, as it's only required to be connected if you want parking mode and the red wire is constantly providing power anyways. I do plan to hardwire my radar detector to the green wire as well though, so I'll probably add an inline fuse to that.

I'll order the amazon splice kit and install my dash cam when the kit gets delivered this weekend. Hopefully it all goes well and I'll let you know whether or not it ends up working. Lastly, I found this thread that basically supports exactly what I did for tapping into the green wire's power, good additional reference.