What is Reddit's opinion of Timer Outlet, Nearpow Multifunctional 7-Day Cycle Programmable Plug-in Digital Infinite Repeat Cycle Intermittent Timer Switch for Appliances, 19 Programmable Settings, 15A/1800W?

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I used a timer that you can program down to the second. At the moment (3 weeks into flower) I give them about 1 min 15 second of water twice a day. As the grow proceeds I bump the timer up by 5-10 seconds a ta time depending on how much runoff I see.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0752PHMTL/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

See this one, recommended by Coco for Cannabis: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0752PHMTL/ref=as_li_ss_tl?dchild=1&s=hi&keywords=nearpow+second&language=en_US&sr=1-2&linkCode=gs2&linkId=554e2cc018ad8a7624c4a76017a25d64&tag=cocoforcann0c-20

You can automate everything. Get an inline ball valve, especially if you have multiple plants. Having it at 100% is too high of a water pressure in my opinion. The valve gives you more control over the water pressure being sprayed out. I have it hooked up to this timer. You can really hone in on how often and how long to water for. At seed, I was doing 5x per day for 15 seconds. At peak of flower I was at 5x per day for 25 secs. It makes the daily maintenance much easier.

This is the timer I use:

Nearpow programmable digital timer

Agreed; switched from hydro to aero about 10 grows ago; will never go back to my old DWC and drip setups.

Have 4 different setups; trying to brain dump all info over here (have gotten this request a couple times):
https://www.aerogrowing.com/

Early on website (like setup 2 days ago); so still adding details. The Aero builds link on that page will bring you over to page I am trying to stuff with the 4 systems I have running (overall technical design and the Bill of materials). Sourced 99% of parts from amazon. Hopefully can show all the painful mistakes I made for others.

The easiest way to get going is grab a mistking pump and thier rct-24 controller; this will give you a 100PSI spray and decent nozzles. The trick is to find a high pressure pump that will allow "seconds" cycle times. Usually you run 5seconds on / 10mins off (or something in that area). Then you just have to figure out how to drain (gravity or pump).

Cheaper alternative; generic amazon pump and one of the new outlets that can cycle time; although reviews are mixed. Was just about to buy this one and test it out.
https://www.amazon.com/Multifunctional-Programmable-Appliances-Settings-Seconds-Interval/dp/B0752PHMTL/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3CSUYL9Q2X7U5&keywords=seconds+timer&qid=1643346922&sprefix=seconds+timer%2Caps%2C69&sr=8-3

Amazon cart of most of what I bought is here; for reference (eventually will be the BOM on website and not just flat list of stuff)
https://www.amazon.com/hz/wishlist/ls/3TTFT52X445LH?ref_=wl_share

I am still searching for a decent powestrip that has "seconds" control over outlet power. Most of them are just insane pricing and made for a datacenter rack. Automating your power on/off is fairly key for items like.
lights
spray pump (requires seconds cycle)
drain pump
fan
(solenoid valves, if using)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0752PHMTL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Use tons of these for years. Bout 13-17 bucks USD.

I would recommend a timer with 1 second intervals like this one.

Make sure your reservoir is black or dark, you want it as light proof as possible. More light = more bacteria.

You will need a pump, 400GPH should be plently depending on how many plants you have.

I use another 80GPH pump to mix the solution instead of air stones. With air stones I got bacteria and mold in the reservoir, along with bad PH drift. Which ever you use, you only need to run it for ~15-30 minutes before watering.

You should also use either H2O2 or beneficial bacteria in your reservoir to help keep it clean. I started with H2O2, it didn't work as good as I would like, so I switched to Hydroguard (beneficial bacteria) and it seems to be a lot better.

That's about it. Make sure your tubing is black as well or light proof.

I used this guide as a reference.

No real experience here so I'll apologize in advance for any ignorance, but I've done a bit of reading on this recently as I'm looking to experiment with a fogponics cloning bucket. My understanding - which I believe relates to each of your questions - is that there is a very thin line between optimal water-vapor absorption and basically dew point, where the water droplets just start accumulating and oversaturating the roots. If/when that happens, it seems to me like that would be no different than any other aeroponic or even DWC application.

So my understanding is, that the goal is to - atomize and introduce the nutrient solution in a very specific window of opportunity (i.e., between the roots just starting to dry out and just before dew-point - or the point of oversaturation where droplets are forming on the surface of the roots) to maximize the availability of both air and water. Otherwise we might as well just be using high pressure sprayers.

So to circle back to your questions, just for conversation sake; Question #1, Personally I germinate mainly in rapid rooters and the seedlings go on to be grown using a hempy (hydro) method, but I'd imagine you'd need something like a rapid rooter or rockwool type medium just the same for the newly sprouted seedling to draw the moisture from - before any roots are fully developed. In addition to that, I'd also imagine the rockwool/rooter would require it's own unique amount of "fog" compared to neighboring plants or else risk becoming oversaturated and drown the seedling or dry out, before roots can emerge and fully draw from the mist being supplied.

Question #2, I have no answer for this, but I'm equally interested and I'll just mention it's the same question I have been searching high and low for, the past few days. What is that perfect interval between roots that are just about to start drying out, and the formation of water droplets? My assumption is that it's dependent on A) the plant and its roots, and B) the fogponic environment (e.g., volume of the container, speed/efficiency of the atomizer). Also, most articles I've come across illustrate fogponic chambers with fans, they don't go into much detail, but again I believe the idea is to regulate that point between optimal water vapor absorption and drying or damping out. However, in contrast to those articles, most if not all of the diy tote and bucket fogponic setups on the internet (youtube) that I've seen, are for the most part sealed off from good airflow and they run there atomizers 24/7, which - to me - is why most of them experience slower compacted root development; because at that point they might as well be in a bubble cloner. I like the 2min on, 8min off, I think I try that as a base setting with some pipe cleaners in my little fogponic bucket cloner. I have a pretty handy digital timer switch (previously used to switch on/off humidifier) that can even handle seconds-intervals, should work nicely.

Question #3, I unfortunately don't have any prophesizing examples to share, but I will say I think the science is there, it just needs to be applied and tested. It very well could turn out to just be too inefficient of a nutrient delivery method to sustain vigorous plant growth, outside of seedlings, clones and small vegetables.

Here ya go. You will have to get your own reservoir. Many ppl with small home grows use heavy duty totes from Lowe's or home depot for this. Also, I do not think the kits come with a timer but I use this one because you can set increments of seconds, which is important so you can dial in how much water is emitted each time the pump runs.

Is this the model that you got? I noticed they have a different model that is orange or blue that looks newer?

Sounds like your setup is the same as mine, except the light. I have a piece of 4" foam cushion, cut to fit inside the frame, with a black shirt on it. The shirt absorbs light on the backside of the screen and reduces undercutting.

The light is 16-18" from the screen. I also use a piece of 1/4" glass on top of the transparency to hold it down. I feel like this distance gives me light coverage from edge to edge on the screen.

I use this timer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0752PHMTL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon now offers the same light I use (20w) in 30 and 50 watt versions. Not sure how much that would reduce your exposure times. I can't wash screens out fast enough now to keep up with a 90 sec exposure.

Re: sawtoothing, have you changed the way you print transparencies? Are they still nice and crisp on the edges?